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Oh, I see what I did. I sent both the Word doc and the converted pdf. Only one document for this week. Less to read -)
Hi Carol,
Thanks so much for the video. One of the things I really like is Strut loves to work and play with you. Such a benefit for training.
A quick question… Is there a reason that your one foot is always ahead of the other when you set up your position. You should be having both toes together and facing the “first” pole. I see you are deliberately doing this on all your set ups.
I am also seeing that your set up for the second set is not always consistent. Sometimes he is sitting. Sometimes moving right away. If you look for that you’ll see it’s your body changes that is confusing the cue. Also, sometimes you are moving before Strut is committed to the weaves. Your body motion is the main cue for him so he moves with that without finding the weaves.
A suggestion: Think of the second set of poles as just another “first” set. Be consistent with both your body and Struts. And don’t be in a hurry. I like to make sure there is accuracy at every level before I start going for speed. The number of errors Strut is making tells me he is trying however he is unclear at the moment.
Does this help? Is there something else that might be helpful for you?
Barb
OK, another thing. It is that keenness that you want. Not sitting means she is loving the game. I am in a scooter and I allow Jack to stand and move into the poles. I don’t want to extinguish any of the drive.
I am in the process of writing an article for Barks from the Guild. In this article I discuss the use of dopamine, a feel-good hormone in training. You are starting to see her wanting to play and play more. This IS, in my opinion, a result of the training and reinforcement you are doing. Just be careful and keep her keen. With my program, offering weaves has more value for my dogs than any other obstacle. And it’s simply a result of what you are seeing with Twix.
BarbJulie,
Awesome!! You’re starting to get speed!! I looked at 1 -4 rep and each one improved. See below:
One: while Trix is weaving you are moving both hands to get the food ready. I see her watch you making her distracted in the poles and slowing her down.
Two through 4: Your hands are behind your back and by 3-4 you are getting speed!! Yay!!! You must remain neutral and allow her to concentrate on her job and not worry about what you are doing. When you do that I can see your speed increasing and she is focused. Well done Julie.OMT: Please try to reinforce with the hand closest to the dog. It will be less distracting to her and won’t be moving your shoulders.
Thank you for videoing. I hope this offers help to others. Just the smallest little thing can be a distraction. You’re getting it and I’m proud of you.
Also, Donna, if you will send me a video I will help you at this point. It may be “illegal” but I believe it will help others.
BarbHi Carol,
I have hit walls with all my dogs at some place in the program. Could you send me a video so I can see your mechanics and reinforcement? That way I can figure out where the challenge is.
BarbJulie,
As I pulled up your video, the first thing I saw was the position of your hands. I caution all my students to put their hands in the position the dog will see on course. For Trix, you are signalling that you have food on you and I bet she focuses on it. If you could, keep food in your hands and keep them at your side.Great heel position by the way. She jumped right in there and right into a sit. Well done.
I am sure you want me to tell you what I see. As she starts for the poles you reach into your pocket for the food. Could you have that ready in advance. I have found it to be a distraction to the dog. They look and almost ask “what are you doing?” Second one was great!!
And great waiting for focus forward on the poles.
I’m going to break here to offer you something to think about with Trix.
What is your ultimate criteria with weave poles? I want speed, accuracy, and drive down the reinforcement line. I have a video of Jack at 10 o’clock on my Facebook page. Here is the link for you and anyone else who wants to see. I am not in a hurry with him. I am more interested in the above criteria. Plus, learning to use the scooter is new and difficult for me. So I am setting us both up for precise definitions of criteria. I am using a very desirable reinforcement which is creating more and more desire on his part to gain reinforcement. It is classical conditioning at its best because Jack is offering and offering. What do you think?
https://www.facebook.com/Barb-Levenson-Dog-Training-Center-112953048733634/For those of you watching Trix and Julie with breeds other than BC’s… Different breeds learn differently. Sporting dogs learn somewhat differently than herding; and working differently than sporting.
The important thing for you all to remember is to NOT combine steps from other programs. Dog training is becoming more and more about adding new neural pathways in the dog’s, and human’s, brain. If you start combining my program with old learning’s it will tend to be confusing to the dog. I tend to use a high rate of reinforcement. I use reinforcement the dog sees nowhere else. And I work to be prepared when I approach the line.
Here’s saying that is in my building: Neurons that fire together, wire together. That means every time a dog repeats a behavior, even an incorrect one, there is an opportunity for those neurons to become wired. Fixing this is harder than preventing in the first place. I am also working to be very clear with Jack that ONLY CORRECT behaviors get reinforced. In my classes, I have found that doing so allows the dog to correct him/herself. I see it frequently with dogs whose owners are clear.
I will be happy to discuss this topic additionally for anyone interested.
Julie,
I noticed something immediately. You start to move WITH Trix. Please allow her to go ahead. The BC’s want to FIND their entry. Our motion interferes with that. Notice with Classy I allow him to go ahead. Our motion, which is so important to them, causes a distraction. Every BC that I have taught or supervised the training of, wants the handler behind them. And if you think about our herding dogs, that is exactly where we are most of the time. And as I watch more, that is why she is slower.Do you do obedience with her? Her head gives me the idea that you do. She is looking at you as you start moving. My suggestion is to separate these behaviors as much as possible. Allow her to go ahead of you and look down the reinforcement line. Also, I’m not sure what you are using for reinforcement. Could you let me know? Also, may I ask you to stop reinforcing the sit at the start. I think she is pretty advanced and can do that without reinforcement. If not, use some of ‘less’ value than the weave reinforcement. I have raised the reinforcement value of the weaves to such a high level, that’s all he wants to do. Let me know the food and the reinforcement and I will offer a suggestion.
Barb
Hi Julie,
We are often more focused on the dog rather than our mechanics. I am currently working Jack using my scooter. I understand exactly what you are talking about. This is a NEW way for me to teach weaves and presenting many of the challenges that everyone has with the program. Hang in there! You’re doing great!!Julie,
I totally understand your question. I prefer to NOT name a behavior until it is actually formed. Two poles is not weaving. I would not add until at least 6. That said, come up with a temporary release cue such as go that gives Trix permission to be released from the sit. Again, this is a really nice and biddable dog. Well done!
BarbToe problem appears fixed. Good for you!!! Awesome job you two. And 3 and 9 is where we all struggle.
Hi Julie,
You have a really nice dog! In Steps 2a and 3a I do notice that your toes are not pointing to the correct pole. It appears from where the video sits your toes point to the second pole and even the idea of more poles down the road. Your toes must always point to the very first pole at all times.I’ll do another post if I notice anything in 2b and 3b.
Barb
