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You have a nice foundation and some nice turns and I love that you want to keep striving for even better! I noticed that the front feet are hitting too far from the ball (see 0:36 where Yumbi’s front feet are landing under the opposite hole versus more towards the center). It could have been the runner or that gutter prop adding some new pressure to push her over away from the ball. I would be curious if you took away that upright on the rear side and moved that gutter over/removed it altogether what do you get while keeping the runner.
Her commitment to the box/ball is great, even with you running in the opposite direction. She is sometimes on the wrong lead (her left front, then right front landing is the wrong lead), but it’s caused because she’s leaning. I think if the releaser made sure her front feet were side by side (might even have to slightly pick up and put back down to square up) then she will have a cleaner approach. That will get rid of that front foot resets.
I typically train with the goal of minimal props in mind. The more you toss in front, the more you have to fade. And if the props are setup this way to tweak an issue… maybe there is another root cause that I can help fix versus the symptom. Hence why I was curious what it would look like with less. The height on that side angle looked great too – you might could go down to something that is the height of 2 gutter props stacked together. Nice job having that prop right up against the box!
How many holes does your box have? What types of balls are you allowed to use in competition?
Hello Emily!! I’m so glad to have you training with me online – and hopefully you can use some of these techniques with your club! I have a goal of making it to Australia to teach – so hopefully I will get to see in you person too!
Retrieving the ball – He is so freaking pumped about this game!! I would say that he is starting to pattern land over the jump with his front feet and spit the ball. So I would either start adding in some ball to hand targeting (he brings it to your hand, you say “YES” and give a treat or start the tug game). Or you can try to start making it clear that he can’t out until you say “YES”. Right now the yes is coming when he is already outing the ball, so he might think that spitting is delivering the reward. It might be a few sessions of confusion on his part as you try to make it clearer that he can’t spit till you tell him to OUT or YES. I often think the hand targeting is a clear visual and it helps them focus on driving back to that target (the quicker I target to the hand the quicker I get to play the game or eat the treat). I start the basics for the ball touch with a nose touch, and then I’ll play grabby tug ball and slap them around and then have them “accidentally” run the mouth full of ball into my open hand (I do try to make it be their movement forward, not your hand moving towards their face). Once that hand and ball touch – magic party happens. Then I’ll take a little calm 60-90 second break… make it seem like we are done and they end up wanting more!! Let me know if you have anymore questions on that one!
Slant Board – he for sure seems happier to the right so let’s focus on training to the right. I am so happy that you are taking it slow and really waiting on him to target those rear feet. You can go back to standing on the right side and pointing with your right hand to ask him to get up. I’m fine if you keep using some with the prop, and some without the prop!
Once it clicks in his head – it’s going to be smooth sailing to start to ask for more speed. When you get to the speed, he might respond well to a slingshot approach. You standing on his right side near the blue mat further back, place your left hand on his chest and press him backwards slightly as you move forward towards the hit it board. Then you stop about 2-3′ from the board and point forward with your right hand to ask him to target or “hit-it” and his momentum should carry him forward. Basically you get a one step head start on him LOL.A lot of my bigger dogs excel when we add some speed/distance, the up close is physically harder because that’s a lot of body to move.
Transitioned to the box height AND focused with distractions – huge wins indeed!!!
You could lower your velcro on your at home board to be closer to your box hole height and he can keep practicing that lower position.
I like that you are using the same concept of rewarding getting close to the jump, and then taking off for it. I would add in a little bit of work of getting him closer to the jump bar, putting him in a sit, and then asking him to jump over. He should be close enough that he cannot take a step forward with his front legs. If you stopped this motion in time, it would look like a sit pretty before jumping over. He used his front to pull through all of these obstacles and I want to see more push from the rear as he goes over. In slow mo you can see the front extends fully and pulls and his rear is there for the ride. It’s fitness building feedback but it will serve him well transitioning that training to Flyball!
Yay Cat! I’m super excited for you with Stitch – and you know I’m with you on the hopes and plans for having boys to run their own Flyball dogs. I feel like you are ahead of me LOL.
I LOVE LOVE LOVED that jump session. I’m so impressed how clearly he knows his job is to jump that hurdle. And the few at the end where he really drove ahead for the toy!! He’s going to LOVE Flyball. He clearly likes motion – so we will keep that in our pocket to know that he might love a clapper/running when we add in more distance between you and the ball/board or box. It might also mean that the other dog’s motion is going to be really hard for him, so we will keep an eye out. But you have a great relationship with him and used that knowledge to give him a breather when he needed, and then engage him again with toy play/motion. Do you have a longer tug that has a toy on the end – with the sighthound in him he might like that prey drive of chasing off the ground to play with you!
The first turns on the ground and slant board were perfection. After it rocked and was unstable he lost some trust/confidence and had to test it out – you can actually see him looking down at it to see if it was going to slip out or try to kill him. I can tell he has more self preservation than those breeds that throw themselves at boards like you mentioned. You actually did some really nice “over and back” motions in the yard jump video where you sent him ahead to do the turn versus luring him – so that snap is in there! I don’t think you need to worry as much on the speed – like you said let him understand what you are asking, build confidence, and then we can ask for the speed! Some dogs move to a 70-80 degree slant board in 3-4 sessions, some take a little longer. I will also take the slant back down when I add the ball for a session, and then build it back up to being steep. Then he can put together okay retrieve this ball, and do it super fast so gravity doesn’t make me fall – but he doesn’t have to do both of those at the same time.
Question for you – how did you determine he is a right turner? I had originally thought he was going to be a leftie because all but 1 of his hallway reps was a turn to the left.Could have just been where the ball or toy was landing – but I thought I would ask. Does he spin on his own in excitement in a certain direction?
Restrained Recalls – you have two behaviors it looks like to start targeting. She’s never going to bail on you when you are running away – she is targeted on you. She’s starting to learn that approaching the box and the out is going to be a harness snatch. I would start asking for the out, and doing a cookie scatter. As she eats the scatter you pet her and gently grab her harness. (Collar grabs at home will also pay out – my dogs learn young to put their necks in my hand for cookies).
She’s also most likely to cross to visit the other dog between outing the tug and lining up. Or when you were walking down the first time. I’d make it a bigger deal to focus at the box. She’s doing the recall and getting a cookie or tug game. But then we get back down to the box and you ask for some tricks/engagement. Do 1-2 easy tricks that are fun and start tugging again or give a jackpot. She will think it really pays well to stay focused.
From your first videos you didn’t look new to dog sports!! You are the jack of all trades with such a variety of experience – that’s so cool!
I’m working on putting together a “How to make your own club” as well so that might be helpful to you down the road!!
Julie and I go together like peanut butter and jelly! It’s so nice to collaborate with fellow trainers.
You did a great job of saying YES and rewarding after the commitment and movement over the jump. And I love that he is a super pro at carrying an object back over the jumps. That’s a critical part of the game.
If you have the ability to add maybe agility poles/wings, or even chairs/similar to act as “uprights” on either side of your jumps that will help add in the visually for when we start to add more distance and more of an angle. He was driving ahead great in the hallway – and I can’t wait to see him make that same choice when he could make either choice on his own.
He’s looking super solid inside so I think you could repeat this same game outside – maybe at a slow time when there are not as many distractions? I will often use popcorn or larger treats for the grass just as an FYI if that helps.
I’m so tickled that you joined this course and I cannot wait to get my hands on another GIR 2.0 haha.
Your first!? This is going to be SO exciting (I get to mold you from scratch hahahaha).
What team are you interested in joining? Do you play other dog sports as well?
I think I got two of the impulse control and I’m missing your Here Game.
Here Game – When I have a dog that is distracted too much outside but nailing it inside, I bridge the gap by taking them outside on a long line (or two leashes clipped together). Then I ask for a few behaviors as soon as we step outside so they know I have the treats. Make your goal to get 3 calls and reward them HEAVILY. She is going to be like WOW this is paying out enormously I for sure want more of this. Maybe even special treats too like meatballs or rotisserie chicken. See if that helps! Next Unit we will do the here Game for a toy but it’s nice to have a dog that recalls even when you don’t have a tug in view.
Impulse Control – nailing it. I love having a dog you can work with your treats or toy on the ground.
RSO – I like your style of play. The game is short and the reward is longer. Towards the end of the session she might have been tired (can’t recall if she is done teething) but the tug kept popping out of her mouth and she was missing it – so when you see that happen 3 times in a row slow down your play and make it a little easier for her to win so she doesn’t get defeated (or learn to make the game that if she stops trying you will come to her).
You nailed the two tug switching game!! We are going to build on that every week (until it’s the ball we are cueing to out for the tug) and I loved you already did some proofing!
Feet in a box – he was perfect. I laughed a little when he sat on the edge. But then he knew what to do! Do you expect him to be big? He seems coordinated for his age so I’m wondering if he’s going to be more of a medium size.
Recall – he’s got a lot of drive away and back to you!! I also loved how he collected going into the toy retrieve (small things like that transition into the deceleration into the box turn). He’s got the value for the recall – I can’t wait to see as we add in more speed what he thinks of that!
