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Hi! Sorry for the delay, the forum hid this from me LOL!!!
The courses looked great. Little details to consider on them:
First video:
Nice line 1-2-3!!! When she is a-framing, run more towards 4 and not as much towards the a-frame contact so she can be independent with her stop and also see the next line
Nice turn on the exit of 5! Good verbal!
She head checked you at :26 on the jump before the teeter – stay connected and accelerate, calling the teeter verbal sooner so she doesn’t look at you.That is indeed a hard weave entry! If you are close to the teeter, yo I will need to converge into the line to push her to the weave entry, and I suggest an ‘out’ cue too.
You can also layer the line with the teeter on it – pick her up from the #5 tunnel exit by staying near the exit, and either run the whole line as close to the dog walk as possible (layering that random jump out there) or send her to 6-7-8 and you be on the other side of the dog walk 🙂Yes, you can work it on 4 poles but I think working the handling is actually going to be more helpful – totally a great spot for distance handling to get you ahead to set the weave entry.
You totally overhelped her get the jump after the tunnel at :42 (#13) and all of that motion and convergence put her right into the off course tunnel (didn’t matter which word LOL!)
So send her in the tunnel and use verbals for the 13 jump, while you run to the 14 end of the tunnel – distance skills make this much easier 🙂 You can even later the 4 jump – it will make the tunnel entry so much easier 🙂
You were a little less over-helpy 🙂 At 1:17 on 13 but. I do think yo can handle that whole line from further away.Interesting that she did not see the dog walk at the end – I think you were in a good position but maybe she needed more connection there, especially with the various other jumps nearby. The last rep looked great!
2nd video –
You were too early on the blind 2-3, as she came around the wing from 1 at :03, you were basically already done with the blind, so she was correct to not take 2 (good girl!) Great timing at :12!
When you release from the teeter, be connected all the way up the line at :22 – you were looking forward then back at her then forward again, so she game off the line especially because it looked like 6 was wingless (harder to see) and there was the big delicious tunnel behind her 🙂 Then stay connected after 6 too, so she doesn’t head check there at :26.
SUPER nice line 7-8-9-10-11-12-13!!! The rear on the flat to the weaves worked great! The backside at 15 looked good – to rear cross the 16 backside a :44, turn your feet to the center of the bar and she will get it nicely. That will also allow you to FC 17 sooner to leave for the dog walk line.
2nd run:
Nice BC 2-3, you nailed the timing here too. Be connected back to her at 3, you were looking ahead so she pulled the bar there. Her teeters (and all contacts!) look great 🙂 Much better up that line in terms of connection, but she needed you to turn your shoulders and call her – she kept going off course to the tunnel because you didn’t turn. When you *did* turn at 1:48? Perfect! Great turn to the a-frame.That middle section 7-8-9-10-11-12-13 and the weaves all looked great again. YAY!!
On 16, you had your chest turned to the slice but not the feet… so she didn’t take it.
(Another option there is a backside blind, which is actually easier than a backside rear!!)Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyYes, get creative! Doing the games in the paddock would be really challenging. 🙂
We have til Sept 1 for posting 🙂
TracyGood morning!
Both dogs did well here – these “compare and contrast” skills games are hard!
For Min:
She is doing well with these as you are adding motion. On the backside pushes, keep making the strong connection but also be sure to not drop your dog side shoulder back so much that it looks like a threadle (there is a fine line LOL!)
On the threadle wraps – you can totally help her more with the hand cue to show her the turn – that will be easy to fade as she sees more of that and I would probably be giving the hand cue in a trial run as support for the verbal anyway 😀
The slices have a bit of foot help (stepping to the bar a little) so you can use hands not feet for the wraps to help solidify them.For Kaladin:
Because he is far less experienced, he needs more processing time to be able to sort the cues while moving. That is why when you gave the threadle info when he was a stride past the wing or more, it was too late for him to process and he took the front.Same with the Backside sends – you can give him more push to it from that angle, meaning more speed and more intensity sooner, as soon as his nose finishes exiting the wing wrap 🙂
Looking at the threadles: you can see the timing at :21 and 1:01, for example, where he was already finished wrapping and striding to the front of the jump when you did the threadle, so he took the front. The cue was definitely earlier on the next rep but still late, try starting it as soon as he exits the wing.
One other idea to help the threadle slices:
Toss reward to slice landing spot, to help him predict where to go after the verbal cue. The rewards were coming near you in roughly the same spot as the go landing spot, so the placement of reward here can help clarify for him what the threadle slice means.He had a little trouble on the threadle wrap, partially because he had just done all of those threadle slices 🙂 so like with Min, you can help him differentiate slice (foot use) versus wrap (more hands). This will help solidify the verbals because the verbals happen before the physical cues (so verbals are predictive of physical cue and reward placement) and Lao because it will raise the rate of success 🙂
Nice work here! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi!
The sequence 1 work also looked really good!
On the walk through, you probably don’t need to call her 2-3 as much – maybe just a little name call then go right into the backside cue. Everything else looked good – you can emphasize the timing of the blind on 6 as well.On the run – looking good! Calling a lot almost got the front of 3. On the 2nd rep, you were earlier with the backside cue and a little less calling at :33 so she had a better line.
For the turn on 6: A decel transition is needed into the tight BC on 6 – decel as she lands from 5 so she sees it is coming and also so you can be starting the blind as she is approaching the jump. You were moving pretty fast and the blind started after she took off at :19, so she was wide there.At :37 your outside arm came up on time but a brake arm doesn’t work on a BC because the brake arm requires us to turn towards her – which makes the BC late because you have to turn away from her. So I think that you just need deceleration and it will work great! (Or a front cross, that is a good spot for a FC too :))
Walk and run side-by-sides looked good on both runs! I think the 2nd one was better than the first one, very close to each other!
And I don’t think the UKI just will let you have drinks in the walk through, well, maybe if it is hot? I have used a rolled up paper or my phone to replace the drinks in the walk through.Have fun this weekend! Great job here!
TracyHi! I think the water bottle helped you keep your hands down and think about connection and pace!!
The walkthrough looked really good here – my only suggestion is to clear the wing as you do the blind on the backside at :11 – you were blocking where your invisible dog needed to be and I could see her looking at the off course jump there rather than seeing the line to the tunnel.
Run 1: this went really well! A couple of little details:
On the first blind 3-4, try to keep your arms in tight to you on the BC at :18 and :37 so you can reconnect really fast. You started on time, but your arms were out away from you which takes longer to finish the blind and reconnect, so she was a little wider than she could be there.She ran past 1st backside at :26 – I think that was more of a dog training thing and not the handling there. Maybe doing the BC sooner will help? But you cued the backside and that also means she should jump the jump no matter what you do, so that is a good dog training thing to revisit: the default of taking the jump on the backside. So send her to the backside and drop the toy on the landing side as you run away or do the blind, etc.
You deceled a little at :40 on the 2nd run, so she took it but it made for a zig zag line to the backside of the next jump because the decel put you on a different line.On 2nd backside you were on her line at :27 so she didn’t lknow where to be for a moment (this matched the walk through). You were much better about clearing the line at :45, so her line was better too 🙂
And the Walk and run side-by-side looked great, so close!!!! YAY!!!
Great job!
TracyHi!
>> Nuptse said, “Fool me once. shame on me. Fool me twice, shame on you!” The pattern game, either several treats at a time, scatter, or one at a time, was good for one visit to the agility area!>>
Time to add in the volume dial game! The pattern game is designed to get him to offer engagement and the volume dial game is designed to get him into the best state of arousal for the run. Offering engagement from the pattern game might not be enough to get him into a course-running state – that can vary from moment to moment. Dogs can be a puzzle! But the volume dial game will give you a more direct handle on his engagement in the moment.
You can also run with reward in your hand, or place it on a chair behind you so he knows where it is. He is all about knowing where the rewards are 🙂
The Walk Thru looks good! One thing that I notice is that you were putting connection in right away and that is terrific!
Your plan looked good – you can play with a BC 2-3 instead of a FC, it is less rotation and quicker to make the new connection, earlier. Both the FC and BC will work there but the BC might be easier and quicker.On the decision jump in the 6-7-8 section- it is a hard decision! It would be interesting to see how the other slice line would be compared to the one you did. The exit line is better when you bring him to the inside wing and slice him to the outside (closer to the blue jump). It looked like the fewest # of steps was to the inside wing and slice to the outside too? But it was hard to tell what the final count was LOL!
On the run –
The FC 2-3 might have been a bit off the line towards the wrong end of the tunnel? I didn’t see that in the walk through (but the camera was far from it) and he definitely read the FC as possibly moving towards that end of the tunnel. The FC was timely! The BC will work too, and maybe it will keep him seeing your motion to the correct end of the tunnel sooner so he doesn’t consider the wrong end of the tunnel.The line he ran over 7 was gorgeous! I am definitely curious to know if the other slice would be faster, this one was really good!!
He was definitely faster on the 2nd run! He was more ramped up for sure – the volume dial game before the run can help give us more info on what he needs to get that speed in the first run too. He read the FC 2-3 the same was as the first run but the rest was really great. And the slice over 7 was even better! Very nice!
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi! You have definitely had crazy weather this summer! How is your Achilles feeling?
Keiko did well here!
The Go looks good on both sides 🙂
The Back cue also looks good! You try more connection and less arm to get her to do it with you not having to step as much. And it is fine to have physical cues supporting the verbal cues on these. I am especially happy that she took the jump as the default after arriving at the backside without help, even as you got way ahead. YAY!She also did well on the left side threadle wraps and I see what you mean about her asking questions on your right side. I watched the left side versus the right side reps and I think part of it was the timing of when you flicked her: on the left side reps, you waited til she was just about past the wing and then cued it. On the right side reps, you were doing it earlier – she was not passing the wing yet, so she still had the option of front or back of the jump and there was steam coming out of her ears LOL! So you can wait til she is at or passing the wing then cue the turn away part.
Also, on the right side I think she was not really reading the hand cue to drive in to you, it was almost like she was offering a bit of heeling LOL! So you can shake your hand cue and even reward her for driving to it with a cookie from the hand, before flicking her. That can help her drive even faster to you hand n those cues, which will allow you to be earlier on the timing.>>I can hear you ask, “What about the threadle slice?”
The answer is, it looked totally foreign to me. I looked back through the camp exercises and couldn’t find an instructional sequence for that slice anywhere. I may be there, but I don’t remember it. I’ve never used a verbal for this technique – and, in fact, I can’t recall ever using this at all with any of my girls. I have done whiskeys, of course, coming from behind with the dog on my outside arm. So, I’m stuck on this one. Not sure how I would approach it. If you did cover it somewhere and I missed it please let me know.>>I think it might look a bit weird because maybe it is out of context. We did them in MaxPup classes in the Strike A Pose games for threadles) and those were front side threadles – think of 2 jumps in a parallel line and she takes the front, you use your threadle cue to pull her into the gap between the jumps then send her back out on the front of the 2nd jump. Here in CAMP, we didn’t do specific skills sets for them, but there were sprinkled in on the sequences and courses. This threadle slice is on the backside here in these skills sets, which might be why it looks so weird LOL!!! I can draw it in context of a course if you want to see the visual of it 🙂
Nice work here! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi!
Poor Mookie!!!! That must have been scary but I am glad he is on the road to recovery.>> In this time, I have found that I have been spoiled by Mookie my old shoe as Buddy needs so much more.
I found I really need to direct him more than Mookie. >>That is so true – Buddy is less experienced and needs more support in every way. It makes me chuckle that Mookie is now the comfy slippers, I remember when he was younger that he was NOT your comfy slippers LOL!
>>Buddy tends to go wide and I really need to work to keep him in on his path with both a “close close” verbal with exit arms.
It could be that he needs earlier info, and also that he is less experienced in knowing where to go. Talking to him more really helps!
>> I can send him to a tunnel but need to watch him until he enters it or he will pull off the tunnel and come back to me. The connection he needs seems more intense than with Mookie. >>
Yes, some dogs prefer stronger connection and that is good to know!
>>I know I will really have to incorporate on how I will direct Buddy on course into my walk thrus. Buddy seems to do better if I chatter during runs giving much more verbal input then I give Mookie plus verbal praise to tell him he is correct.
When you walk his courses at the trial, walk the extra connections and verbals as a way to be ready for what he needs 🙂
>>Buddy also is affected by a judge in the ring and distractions where Mookie is not so I will be doing the games learned at the trial also.>>
Perfect! And if you can get him to the location or to trial-like places beforehand, it will make things even easier.
>>When is the last cut off to write on this forum ??
Sept 1 is the last day – I can’t believe the summer has gone so fast!
Thanks for the update 🙂
TracyHi!
Here are 2 proofing games to revisit with running:
Serps and backside serps 🙂https://agility-u.com/lesson/proofing-game-3-strike-a-pose-proofing-for-serps-and-threadles/
https://agility-u.com/lesson/proofing-games-backside-challenges/
Hi again!
One thing I notice on this video and on the previous ones is that going away from the tunnel, she almost always gets the serp even when you are running hard. Going towards the tunnel is harder, that is where she tends to miss – so definitely revisit the proofing game.
Also, looking at upper body position:
First rep:
:04 was great going away from the tunnel
:07 (jump before the tunnel) was strong enough for her to see the open shoulder and she got it.2nd rep – :14 was great
:17 (jump before the tunnel) she got ahead and you closed your shoulder forward so she ran past it3rd rep – :25 – great
:29 you had a better open shoulder before she got to the jump – I don’t think she needed that other cues like decel because your shoulder was great there .So yes – keep opening that shoulder and making the very strong connection to her eyes and calling her (especially when the tunnel is out there) – it might feel a bit exaggerated for now, but that is fine 🙂 And also the proofing games, now that she is older and faster 🙂 will allow you to remind her to come in for the serps even when things are VERY EXCITING lol!
Great job here!
TracyHi!
First sequence – looking good! Great connection! My only suggestion is to open up your shoulder for the serp cue a tiny bit sooner at :09 on jump 6.
Second sequence – also great!
3rd sequence – great!
These really look terrific.4th rep, balancing back to the first sequence – really nice til the serp jump at :48 – I think you accelerated a lot there and didn’t open your shoulder for the serp til she was almost past the jump, so she raced past it. Based on what I see here, that open shoulder is an important cue for her – you also didn’t open it enough at :56 so she didn’t get it there.
– compare those run by moments to :09 where you were calling and opening your shoulder and she got it one those – that open shoulder position is very helpful for her! And she was better at 1:05 because you opened your shoulder 🙂So yes – run hard but really open up your shoulder (twisting your upper body back to her) and call her, I think she will come in nicely when you do that. I totally agree that we don’t want you to have to pause, even for a heartbeat.
Also, revisit the proofing game we did in the previous max pup with the serp jump right in front of the tunnel – add in running to that game 🏃♀️ Because yes, the open shoulder helps but I think we both want her to come in when you are running hard and perhaps your shoulder is NOT perfect LOL!!! I will go grab the link to that game and post it in a moment. The proofing game plus the open shoulder will make it perfect 🙂
T
Good morning!
>> I did have trouble at first she did not take the second jump. But then I made sure I was closer to the jump and then she got everyone after that.>>
You must have edited those out, or I need more coffee, because she looked great on th video LOL!!! Getting closer helps a lot and I bet you also opened up your shoulder more too!
First reps going towards the pool look good – I think she dropped the last bar on the 2nd rep because you were decelerating and she was jumping towards the pool so she shortened up.
The bigger sequence looked awesome!!!! You got your ‘left’ verbal on the 4th jump – you can also use left/right verbals on the serps, or her name. Either way, the physical cue looked really good so she did really well here. Yes, she was a little wide on 4 but that is probably the fastest line there (collecting will look prettier but will be slower LOL!) and yes she might be avoiding landing on the sidewalk.Great job!
TracyHi! Sorry to hear that NZ is back in lockdown. I admire the way the Kiwis handle this, though – I know if sucks but so far you all have avoided a lot of disaster. So for now, we can get creative with how you present distractions.
It sounds like the dogs are making good progress!
Do you have a space where one of your older dogs can run around (but separately from the younger dog who is working) and use that as a situation? I out my older dogs in a fenced area to work the youngsters nearby – it was definitely harder! If you don’t have a fenced area, can you put the older dog on a leash with a chew bone or something so he is busy, then you can work Fusion or Veloz walking by with the engagement games?
The older dogs can be silly – looking, barking, etc – but we just don’t want them to try to insert themselves into the game LOL!!When things open back up, definitely take it on the road but for now we can be creative at home.
Tracy
Hi! Sorry I missed this one!
It was hard to see on the video exactly how it started – was he sniffing when you entered the ring, or did you toss treats immediately when you entered? He was very interested in the ground there LOL!
if you started it with a treat toss instantly, that is fine – then wait for him to lift his head and re-engage. If he entered and was sniffing, you can start the game immediately as you pass through the gate – use your get it cue and toss a treat immediately when you enter (then close the gate :)) then toss the next one when he re-engages. Starting the pattern before he offers engagement can serve as a cue to engage – a soft cue that also allows him to assess the environment.
As for the 4 treats or just one – you’ll want to experiment with how it changes his state of arousal in different situations. Because we are aiming for the optimal state – which might differ slightly in various situations – one cookie might end up being perfect or 4 cookies might end up being perfect 🙂 Generally, the longer he sniffs around the for treats, the lower his state of arousal will be. That can be helpful or not – he might need that at first then he will need the volume dial game tp raise the state for the run. The only way to know is to experiment. A good guess for him is that I think he might need 4 cookies to start in any new area… then as he gets engaged, you can got to one treat from your hand (the newer variations of the pattern game from Package 5) then the volume dial tricks to get him pumped up – then the run 🙂Let me know what you think! Trying it at trials will help!
Tracy
