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Hi!
Yes, Wayne Gretzky and Ken Jennings – both GOATs 🙂For t he cans – a low, big tuna can or a soup can can both work!
>Maybe glue some non slip on them.
Great idea! And on a non-slip floor too.
> Hmm….. I have her up on the Peanut already. She can almost climb up by herself. Hmm…I bet I could do the Goat game with that.
Yes, just be careful that the peanut doesn’t move around at all so she doesn’t slip. Have fun!
Tracy
Hi! We had a moment of a white Christmas but now it is back to green grass, thankfully LOL!
On the stays – try to not be tense as you walk away – that will draw her to you rather than help her stay 🙂 She was getting the idea! You can reward sooner though – toss the treat back on that very first step away, mixed in with the instant she sits, mixed in with a step or two away. You were using a catch cue (yay!) and I think adding a clicker will help too – something about the concept of ‘wait for the click’ really helps the pups get this started.
The putting-it-together game is looking good!! All of the elements look great- my only suggestion is to decel sooner after your blind cross, as you get into the turn – when you are late with your decel, she either doesn’t get a moment to slow down or she ended up on the wrong side. But when you slowed down it looked lovely! Your reps at approx 1:00 and definitely the last rep were smooth and beautiful. Yay!
Great job!
TracyHi!
This is also going well – I know I just bugged you about wrap timing but on the 1st 2 runs here – super good wrap timing! Really nice! On the 2nd wrap on each sequence, exaggerate your connection more (and sooner) because you were pretty far up the line, so that will help keep the turn tight when she finds her way to the jump before the tunnel.
Push cues – you can leave sooner on the FC after the push at :29 but she is reading them really well! Yay! But I totally see what you mean by getting toooooo many backsides LOL! You got an accidental push fter :29 – might be a slight bit of pressure from your feet as you deceled? Or just an error on her part.
At :43 there was bar down on the wrap jump after the tunnel – Theverbal was good but I think you were slamming on the brakes in the decel and ending up rotating late. And on the other sidem the a similar thing happened and she tried to read it in the air at :50 and her butt was higher than her shoulders 🙂 So, let her see a few steps of your slowing down then slide away into the rotation
to help smooth that out. The RC there looked good, the wrap RCs are HARD!!!
Back to the pushes: Ah now we have a lot of bonus backsides 🙂
Push cue at 1:10 was good! Then she was in push mode: at 1:18 and 1:27, maybe she needs more forward facing deceleration and transition starts when you see her looking at the front side of the jump – you can also call her name right before the push cue, to be all like “THIS IS NOT THE PUSH” haha so it would be YOWZA! checkcheckcheckcheck 🙂
The handling cues at 1:38 and 1:51 definitely looked like front side cues to me… but she was in a backside vortex. It could have something to do with more arousal from the added speed causing her to do Border Collie things like flank out away from you a bit… which puts her on the backside line. So, an idea: each time you add arousal by adding more speed or distance, only do front side wraps/go/RCs so that she learns to find the front when she is stimulated and not ping to the back. Let the first 2 sessions be all about the front. Then on session 3, when she has reconciled the arousal… throw in a backside or two 🙂 then back to all front side stuff. The backsides are low priority for the moment, so we can emphasize “find the front” when she is feeling the excitement of the wind in her hair 🙂
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi! She seemed super confident going all the way up the board and did not seem to mind the noise or movement. Perfect!!
>> so this time I did this with the lower end slightly off the ground, >>
I think this actually slowed her down, because she had to wait and balance as it was dropping before running up the board – she had to think about 2 tips instead of 1. So, I think leaving the entry side on the ground will get you more speed and balance on the board.
>>Also, I put her in a down at the top, then at the bottom too – I thought it was a good idea, as I am teaching her to down at end of teeter>>
I think it is fine but it needs to happen sooner so she doesn’t lose her footing off the side 🙂 What is the cue for the down – a verbal from you, or a target, or a default/offered behavior? If it is a verbal, you can give it as soon as she gets to the top (before the reward). If it is a target, the target can be there. If it is default/offered – we should probably work that separately so she can offer it on a moving plank that is lower so she can control the balance sooner.
Let me know what you think! Nice work!
TracyGood morning! This is going well, her commitment looks really strong and your connection looks super and you were rocking the verbals, so now all we need to do is talk about the timing! The timing in general was really really good too, just a couple of spots where you can be sooner:
At the beginning of the session, your wrap versus push versus RC cues all looked different in the best way – I could tell from miles away what you wanted, and so did she! Yay! On the Go line, the cue also looked good – just remember to keep running until she gets to the toy and you can throw sooner so she doesn’t look back. Dogs love to look back at us on the last jump!
I think the only timing questions had to do with the wraps – your check wrap (to the right) at :48 was a little late so she was wide, but the RC version of it right after that was really lovely!
When you added the tunnel, it took you a moment to get into the groove of the wrap timing (things were happening pretty fast at that point LOL!) The decel for the transition into the wrap late at 1:03 and 1:10 – she saw it happening over the bar so she responded over the bar but couldn’t actually make an adjustment til after she landed (so she was wider on those). You can look for her landing spot from the jump before the wrap or exit of the tunnel before the wrap jump, to plan your decel into the wrap cue. You were much sooner at 1:19 and her turn was really nice!
BIG yay for the push at 1:22! You were behind her, she was flying… but you nailed the good timing and connection and verbal and she got it independently. That is TERRIFIC especially because she is young and inexperienced!!! You got another good one at 1:29. Double big yay!!!
And at the end you had good timing going on your wrap transitions at 1:33 and 1:38. You are pulling your shoulders a bit on those, meaning turning towards the wrap wing with your upper body before rotating away. I don’t think it is hurting the info but I do think it might end up delaying your rotation and your ability to get outta there really fast (which I believe you will need LOL!) so try less shoulder pull and just use changes in motion and see if she will still commit – your running line will still be towards the wing but you don’t need to turn your shoulders as much. Let me know if that makes sense.
Great job!!!
TracySo the dog comes between the jump and you then turns away to take the jump? I use my threadle slice verbal for that (‘close’) – kind of like this, except the handler continues to move past the jump and not towards the bar:
I probably have video of it somewhere, let me look…
Hi there! I will have more coming on the mat work, but a couple of things here –
I really like that he is moving in a trot to and through the mat: not bouncing or leaping or bunny hopping. Yay!!!!! That is really good- it will make it easier to build the running without leaping 🙂
first question that I always ask people: what is the criteria? It was a little hard to tell – split rear feet? It was hard to tell because the MM was not marking the behavior in terms of the beep – so a few ideas for you with that:
in these early stages, turn the beep off on your target mat and you will use a clicker or the MM beep. Three reasons for that:
first, as you establish criteria, he might hit the mat with front feet so it beeps – but you don’t reward. That causes the beep to lose value and then when you need the beep later on (because you are miles away and can’t see it), the beep won’t be useful to him in terms of knowing if he is correct or not. When my mat beeps, I always reward (more later on how to make sure the mat beep matches criteria :))
Second – if he hits the mat properly on the way back to you – reward him. Otherwise, a whole bunch of gorgeous hits go unrewarded and then you lose the gorgeous hits (I think that was happening here, it became a bit about going to the MM and not necessarily the mat). And if the beeper is on with the mat, a whole bunch of beeps go on rewarded which causes the beep to lose value. So, if he hits it on the way back – reward 🙂 and you can move off to the side to get him to come to your hand or tug on a toy so you can reset (although I do a LOT of back on forth on the mat to get the criteria firmly established).
Third – I like to train my eyes to be able to see what it looks like when the dog hits criteria (they all move differently) so a quiet beeper mat forces me to stare at the mat to watch for criteria – I have to rely on my eyes only and not my ears LOL!Let me know if that makes sense! Welcome to the RDW adventure!!
TracyHi!
>>I had to really break this down.
I think that was a good decision, led to a really strong session!
>> Stark forgot what a straight line and “Go” was so I sat the toy out front for a couple reps. That really helped jog his memory.
Yes – the GO is hard on the 2 jump set up because there is very little momentum. Setting the toy out is fine, he did well! And also good job mixing it in between the reps that had turns, to keep it fresh.
>>I mixed in a couple wraps and and he said check! Got this.
Yes – you were behind him as you did this, so the timing is a little harder (it is about his position) – the 2nd rep was really good! And I like how he was able to read it with you behind him, that is a good skill because we don’t always want to be ahead on the wraps.
>>His backside are weaker than wraps but we have not done nearly as much training with these. So I had to start in front of one jump with little motion. I was able to quickly add a second jump and more movement. This was nice to see. He appeared to be good on both sides.>>
Yes, backsides are usually a little weaker at this age because most of the value and training is on the front side (in terms of prioritizing, he really won’t need backsides skills any time soon :)) On the first part of the backside section, you recognized that the default to taking the jump was not yet in place and then you did a great job with the early placement of reward – that really helped him come in and take the jump! My only suggestion on those early toy drops (or any toy drops for this) is to have the toy already in your dog side arm (the same side he is sent to the backside with) and then that is the arm that drops the toy back: it will give you the physical look of the arm back serp posture that we use on those, rather than the cross arm (which we don’t use anymore on the serps). I think he did better on the backsides on the left turn side (starting on your right arm) than on the right turn side, but that might have been because you had already rewarded a bunch on the right turn side.
>>His rear crosses are basically non existing. I think I need to break these down some more and focus on these. He really does not understand them and that’s because we really haven’t spent much time on them at all.>>
He did really well! I have more rear cross work coming up soon. The handling is a little tricky, because you will want to run with pressure on the line without pushing him to the backside (which happened a couple of times) and also, try not to ‘pull’ your upper body to the front of the jump: that can set the line to the wrap side rather than the rear cross side. I like to think of my entire body (feet and shoulders) moving to the center of the bar – and then I cut in behind the dog when he is pretty close to the bar, within a couple of feet. It is the pressure line that creates the RC, not cutting in behind him – so on the reps where he ended up on the backside, your running line was cutting in to the new side before he had a chance to commit or get past you. Going to the new side on a rear cross will actually feel kinda late, a little last minute – because it doesn’t happen til he has made the adjustment just before takeoff, if that makes sense.
>>Next time I’d like to start with rear crosses and also add some backside wraps.
You can start with general RCs without the wraps, that will make it easier to get commitment because you don’t also need to cue collection. And yes you can totally add in backside wraps here – don’t do too many because they are the hardest thing on the dog’s body, so you can throw in a couple to reward the countermotion of you moving forward while he turns back to commit to the jump.
Great job!
TracyHi! Thanks for the update! The weather has been a pain lately!!! We have plenty of time for the games, so fingers crossed for a dry yard soon!!!
>>None of my dogs stare at the TNT if I’m at the side. They all still stare at me and come off sideways. It’s a high value reinforcer but they still stare at me. I’ve kind of given up on a forward focus on the plank :(. It’s never been an issue in trials so far anyway.>>
If it is not an issue at trials, it might fall into the category of “don’t fix it if is it not broken” 🙂 You can play with a focus forward on a food bowl as you move around to the side and behind, just as a training skill? Then you have the concept ready in case you do end up needing it at some point.
Hope the rain clears soon for you, nd you get can get for some running 🙂
Tracy
Hi! I think it only comes with general directions such as getting the dog to go up it, but not training directions to get to the full finished teeter performance.
T
Hi! This was a cool session to watch – good job noticing her frustration and fixing it! Yay!! That is the mark of an excellent dog trainer!
On the first part of the video, you were pointing to the edge of the wing closer to you, so she would have to come between you and the wing. The goal was to have her put the wing between you and her, so pointing to the outside of the wing would make it happen. And when you came back in the 2nd half of the video, you nailed it. Yay! She was really strong about going around the wing and you started the front cross earlier. She was nice and fast but also turned tight. So now you can start adding challenge by gradually leaving earlier and earlier – working up to starting the FC and run just before she gets to the wing. Great job here!!!
TracyHi!
Yes, I would agree that she is enjoying the tunnel LOL!! That is not a bad thing, but we can definitely get it so she only goes by permission 🙂 Some ideas:
– rather than use a ball for now, use tug toys. That will help her focus on your for each reset by bringing her into you (rather than sending her out for the toy). It looks like one of the balls was a hollee roller, so you can use it by tying it to a tug toy, that way she gets her high value reward by then won’t take it on road trips through the tunnel LOL!
– you can do tricks near the tunnel for the tug rewards – this helps her see that just because the tunnel is there does not mean to always go to it 🙂
– when you do send her to the tunnel – reward and move away from hit to play, bringing her into you – then get the reward back, reset, and send her again. That can help prevent her from sending herself – I think some of that was because you were close to the tunnel, so she was taking it as a sign of “dad must want me to offer the tunnel again” LOL!
– if she offers going through it but you did not cue it… don’t reward 🙂 Just call her further away from it so you can reset for the next send.
– you can also ask for focus on you before a tunnel cue: use a ‘ready’ word or her name – and when she gives you eye contact, reward her with the tunnel cue. She did a nice focus on you at 3:24 so that is what you would be looking for.About the sends – the sends look great!!! I consider a send when she is on your outside arm (you are the middle: tunnel, you, Ria). She is sending with distance and confidence! Even on the very last rep, I think you wanted her to on the entry closer to you but the line made it look like you wanted the other side, so she travelled a good distance to find the entry. Good girl!!!!
The threadles were harder (they are harder for all dogs) – the threadle is where she is between you and the tunnel, and she has to turn away from you to get the entry. She had more question on those, so when she is between you and the tunnel, start closer to the tunnel entry so that she can very easily see it and turn away to it. I think if you stay within about 1 foot of the tunnel entry for 2 sessions when you do the threadles, she will figure it out and then you can add more distance. (You can already add distance on the sends, when you are in the middle).
Nice work here!!!
TracyHi!
>> (Greatest Of All Time. LOL. GOAT. They use that now for someone. That’s what I thought you meant at first.>>
Yes, here on the East Coast they use GOAT for Tom Brady the Quarterback (blech, I don’t like him LOL!!!) and also for Michael Jordan.
She was great with her goating on the stool here! Jumped right up and tucking her hind end in under her. The high five is actually great for teaching her to stay balanced and for building core strength (it is on the list of things my rehab vet told me to teach my dogs!).
Do you have any of those big balance discs or anything unstable/inflatable? Or those paw pods (although before those were invented, we use cans of tuna hahaha) – I think she is ready for harder Goat Games by using more ‘unstable’ surfaces as well as getting her to put her feet on smaller things.
The other thing to do is take the familiar items (like the stool) to get her to do this in as many different places as possible: it begins to lay the foundation for generalizing behavior in new places. That is hard for pups! So the stool can travel with you to all sorts of places and she can hop on for treats! Think of it as the foundation for future contacts and weaves in alllllll sorts of different trial locations.
Great job!
TracyHi! Sorry that I missed this post!!! Just found it now 🙁
>> It seems if I go on too long she has that head explode and then she is done, or hard to get back. She will end it herself. And THAT’s not good. I need to keep sessions really short. Doing the tugging in between really helps! Or yea. Keeping the arousal level high.>>
I agree! It is easy to keep going and going and going with puppies… til their heads explode and then the session turns to poo. So I like setting a timer, breaking things up after 3 or 4 or 5 or 6 treats, and tugging lots 🙂 It helps prevent brain explosion LOL!
On the plank video:
I love her coat! She is very focused on the back and forth here – see f you can get her to leap on in the middle and balance because it is always harder to stick a landing and be stationary than it is to keep moving. Then she can turn in a full 360 degree circle.
And having her hop off on her own was too cute at the end – she had to take a moment to figure it out, then she was like “oh, I step off” LOL!!! You laughed and so did I 🙂 I also like to get the pup to jump on in the middle, turn a full 360 and then hop off – this is hard! But as you mentioned, teaching the pup how to get off is super important, in case they ever need to bail off the dog walk if they lose their balance. If she ever loses her balance, she will know how to safely jump off rather than fall and possibly get hurt.Keep visiting this as she grows, maybe once a week – it will change as she gets bigger ( not sure how much bigger she will get? But a little bigger :)) and she will need to keep ‘finding’ her balance and hind end. It will really help with your dog walk training.
Great job!
TracyHi!
>>And as for his slower performance when going to the right, I think that is relatively new. He had a short puppy massage last week and turned up. He does see Dr Julia in about 2 weeks so I’ll see if she turns up anything.>>
He might have a trigger point that needs releasing or something a little out in his chiro -we have been obsessing on his videos since July, and I simply don’t recall noticing that before. No worries – he might just be muscling up and not quite balanced yet.
On the teeter – bonus points for his fancy holiday attire! And yes… the magic of peanut butter LOL! Good boy! His balance on the board is looking good and I am glad he was trying to start without you. He is definitely growing in confidence! I suggest a two-pronged approach to more teetering:
– on the home teeter, do a ‘boil the frog’ approach: when he drives up the teeter at the beginning of the session with no questions and goes right to the end (for 2 short sessions in a row), you can start to raise the teeter a tiny tiny amount at the start of each session. It is like boiling a frog: it is so gradual, he won’t even notice 🙂 (Or at least that is what I hear, I have never actually boiled a frog!) And if he asks a question at any point, you stay there for a couple of sessions until he is driving up it again.
– try to get to different teeters and start with the easiest form of the game, just to build confidence in different places. It is easier said than done during the winter in a pandemic for sure but there is no rush 🙂
Great job!
Tracy
