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Hi! In general, your arms were fine but they did get high a few times and that caused errors.
>>We struggled to get obstacle 4 each time. I tried throwing the toy for her before she got to the jump, and that helped a little.
That was where the arms would sometimes come up too high – throwing early actually kept your arms down and connection, so keep planning to throw! You can also carry something in the dog-side arm (like a bottle of water) so you can feel where you arm is more while you are running.
>>As always I struggle with timing.
Your timing is going well! There were a few reps here where it was spot on! And there were few reps where it was not as perfect but still really good!!!
>> Omg – need to stop the drama when we don’t get something. She easily shuts down.
Yes, this, 1000% this. Looking at the science of it, there is punishment happening whether you intended it or not. There is a clear difference in her speed at the beginning versus the end, based on the punishment. Now, I don’t think you are actively trying to punish her – but marking it,, stopping the running, not reinforcing, and turning away from her create a strong negative punishment (withdrawal of the activity, the reward, and your attention, all of which are valuable to her). So from now on, you need to be REALLY aware of this and have a plan to not accidentally punish her when the handling goes wrong. If she comes off a line, just keep going or reward her happily – and then on the next rep, fix the handling. More on that below.
I also recommend a penalty for yourself every time you punish her, whether you intended to or not 🙂 The dogs don’t read our intentions with reinforcement or punishment, they just read whether they were reinforced or punished. So having a penalty (punisher!) for the human will make you far more aware of it: I suggest something like you lose 30 minutes of access to your cell phone or ipad to TV during prime hours (not at 2am haha) for every time you punish her, accidentally or not 🙂 So if you punish her 4 times here by accident, your devices all go away for 2 hours. Eek! Or something equally valuable like that, if devices aren’t valuable.
On the video:
1st rep FC – good connection, good timing, good verbals, good reward! She had strong lines and a lovely turn! And speedy!!!!
One tweak on this one is to NOT use her name out of the tunnel (and on the next reps too) because we don’t want a turn on the tunnel exit, we want her to go. So, use GO 🙂
2nd rep – you had too much of her focus on you out of the tunnel (the repeated name call) and then a big disconnection over #2 and 3, so she turned with your shoulder and came off the line.
When something goes wrong, it is far far better to either keep going or reward her. You stopped and turned your back on her here – and she immediately left.3rd rep – BC here was good! Better connection than the previous rep and you are really getting the crosses started much earlier! That is setting up nice turns and she is driving through them.
4th rep -at :47 you did a spin, then just rewarded – totally the right thing to do because she read you perfectly and I don’t think your plan was to spin LOL!
5th rep – mirror image FC – a little alte on the FC here at :59 (the timing on your FC on the other side was earlier, so you can trust her here and start the FC when she is halfway between the 2 jumps. Then on the reward, keep moving and have her chase you for it – you tossed it one direction but moved the other direction and she pulled the bar. So moving through the jump and then engaging with the toy will help her carry through with the jumping.
6th rep – at 1:14, you were pulling away, arm high and called her name (“Dem!”) so that is why she pulled off the line. Think of supporting the line with your motion and connection, not your arm – so look at her on landing, keep moving towards the line and use your jump cue there. And then reward her for *something* – withholding reinforcement assumes that it is the dog’s fault. And in agility handling – it is the handler’s fault 99.999% of the time. Marking it by saying stuff like “so close” then turning away from her is a punisher, even when it is cheerful, so you will want to avoid that as it squealches drive for the game.
Same with the giant groans of defeat at 1:24 when you threw the toy and she went around the jump to get it. Watch that section from 1:22 – 1:27 and look at her facial expression when you turn to her and she is bringing the toy to you: ears back, postured lowered… she is perceiving that as a punisher and that can really bubble into a loss of passion for agility. Note how on the next rep, she trots into the tunnel (1:28) She pretty much stayed at a slower speed for the rest of i, even with the rewards (and the punisher at 2:24) now go back to the beginning of the video and watch her speed there on that first rep. You can see how the punishers are slowing her down at the end versus at the beginning.
So think about how you can keep working the timing and connection like you did here (you are doing really well with that) and plan to reinforce her when the handling goes wrong. Assume that the handling caused the error (which it did) and don’t worry about the reinforcement caused her to not take jumps (she will still take jumps with correct handling). You will see an increase in her speed, which makes your handling much easier too!
Let me know what you think 🙂
Tracy
Hi there! These sessions had really lovely work in them!!!!
Seq 1: For some reason, he was going really wide on the jump after the tunnel. Birds? Or maybe looking for the toy on the ground? It wasn’t anything you were doing as a handler, so it was probably some type of distraction. He was coming in when you did the FC and called him, so try calling him sooner. When he went around the cross jump, it was the distraction not a handling error. Calling him earlier seemed to help (like on the BC rep) and also he got better as the session continued in the PM session.On the exit of the FC – to get the side change, get connection and hold connection that connection as you rotate. When he ended up behind you – you released it at :16 by looking forward so he never changed his line. You were perfect with getting and holding connection at :25! And at :46 after the BC! And at 1:11, that turn was GREAT! Really terrific!
At :59, you did indeed get connection and hold connection… but you ran a line directly to the tunnel entry so that is why he took it 🙂 Motion is king! LOL! So keep running towards the jump like you did at 1:11.
Overall, I think your timing is looking really good here – it might have felt weird because he was wide on the jump after the tunnel, but I think that was just a distraction causing it.
Sequence 2 – On the first rep, just a little more connection needed on the jump cue – look at him more when you say it, try not to point forward. I liked your timing though! And the 2nd rep was great – a lot more connection and also nice timing! Yay!!
Nice work here! Looking forward to seeing more 🙂
Tracy
Hi! Both hands? hahaha just kidding!
If it is the exit of a cross or a serpentine, try to use the arm across the body. If it is a regular line, you reward with dog-side arm as long as you stay connected back to the dog 🙂Tracy
Hi! I think you are doing well here!
On the landing side BC at 3, there are a couple of challenges: getting there, starting on time, and getting the new connection… all at the speed of light because she is relentless (which is a VERY VERY good thing LOL!!!!). Looking at the first section (pink jacket reps :)):
Only 2 tweaks, really:
leave the tunnel sooner, turning your feet towards 4 rather than doing a full post turn to face the tunnel. This will help so you can get to the 3 sooner, and start the blind sooner so you can reconnect sooner). As soon as she is heading towards the tunnel, get outta there (keep yelling tunnel and watching her, but your feet can turn and leave. We saw her do it when we worked just the tunnel in MaxPup 3, so I am confident she will stay committed here too.
On the bigger lines to the FC or BC, trust her more to take 5 so you can start your FC and BC sooner. You were tending to wait til she was between the uprights so she was a little wide on those.
On the 2nd session here (pink t-shirt session) – you are rocking it! Note how you are leaving the tunnel sooner – at 1:03, you did exactly what I suggested above about turning your feet away and leaving, so you got the blind sooner. You did’t do it on all the reps her, but you nailed it there! It didn’t look totally comfy yet but it will be with practice 🙂You are also doing the BCs and FCs sooner – at :58 and 1:22 you were earlier on the crosses 5-6 and she committed and turned nicely! So I think this sequence is a matter of really testing her commitment because things need to happen soooo quickly. You might have a tiny bit more time when she is jumping bars, but not a lot more time. And she is relentlessly driving each line as fast as she can, which is just *amazing*!!!!!
Great job on these! Let me know what you think!
Tracy
Hi!
On this one, getting away from the tunnel is even more critical, as you found out 🙂 You were doing a full post turn while she was tunneling, and I think that delayed you from getting all the way up the line. You can do a rotation on the tunnel entry: send her in and then turn your feet to the new direction (rather than towards the tunnel) – you’ll get up the next line a lot sooner and that should make everything easier 🙂
On the first rep, start the BC as soon as she exits the tunnel and then exaggerate the exit line connection (dog-side arm back, arm across the body with the reward) so she sees your eyes before she takes off. The timing was a little late but not the reason she didn’t pick up the side change, it was that she didn’t see the new connection. Better timing and connection on the 2nd rep really helped! The more she can see your eyes on the exit of crosses, the faster she picks up the new side.
On the other side, at :26, the same thing happened as on the first rep – not enough connection after the blind so she didn’t see the new side. You got it on the next rep, yay! Really nice. At :37 you closed your shoulder forward which broke connection, so she came off the line. The more you can practice the arm-back running and look for her eyes, the easier it will get. LOVED Your connection at :44! That was perfect!!!!! And then maintain it for the rest of the line for a super smooth ending.Onwards to video 3 🙂
THi!
Whoa, I am excited for you, she is SO FAST already!!! I also love how she is finding her lines! and turning!!!! On the sequences here – try to send her to the tunnel from further away and get up the line as fast as you can (while maintaining connection back to her). She was so fast that you were late starting your crosses. If you can be 2 steps further ahead by leaving for the next line before she gets into the tunnel, you will be further ahead in time to start the crosses.
On the FCs, you were still trying to get past the FC when she landed from the previous jump, so you ended up being a little late. You left earlier from the tunnel sen on the 2nd FC rep here and you were ahead enough to start the FC sooner (:18) so you were just about done with it before she took off – this is pretty close to perfect, so try to be just one more step further ahead and you’ll have it! On the exit of the FCs, be sure to look right back at her. You were looking ahead, so she was drifintg wide trying to find the next line. For example, watch the section :18-:19-:20 – she is chasing your line but you were looking forward, so she went wide.
On the BCs – on the first rep, she needed a bit more connection throughouth – you were probably not yet comfortable handling the sequence at her speed (totally understandable) so you were looking ahead – and you can see her look at you after the tunnel at :26, then she hits the wing of the jump before the last tunnel (and looked at you again a little there too). You had more connection on the next reps and her lines were sweeter, she didn’t look at you. YAY! Keep trying to get your dog-side arm back to make even more connection with her on the exits of the blind – it was down by your side and that blocks her connection a bit. Both BC sequences looked really strong!
Onwards to the next clip below 🙂
Hi there!
Another fast and fun session with Mr. Spot!! The bigger distances were terrific, he got to really open up without losing his accuracy. And he was tugging on the toy like a shark grabbing chum! Yay!1st rep – nice opening! You got to the first BC nice and early- smart to wait for him because there was no place to go 🙂 He drove his lines nicelyl!
The FC can possibly be maybe 1 step earlier, but I thought the turn was nice (you were *almost* done with it when he was jumping, and connected!) He definitely needs the arm-back connection on the exit – even the arm across the body – to help him pick up the jump after the FC. No bark on this one 🙂2nd rep – you got a bark after the BC at :43 – he was more excited and you were a little in the way. And another one at :45 (FC) – you were definitely late there, still facing him when he landed and then there was a delay in showing the next line. You can see he was more over the center of the bar on that one than on the previous rep (:25).
3rd rep – nice BC! No complaints form him 🙂 And also the FC at 1:15 was really nice (no complaints from him about the FC :)) His complaint was at 1:16, after the FC, when you were stalled out a bit and looking at him… I think you had time to switch the toy and talk to him, but not in an informational way (it was something like “come here” or ‘good boy’ and he was all like “dude, I am obviously headed your way” LOL!!!) So after the FC – get the connection but drive out to the tunnel and tell him to jump. I think the arm-across-the-body for exit line connection as you drive away will make the most difference.
4th rep – same thoughts about his opinion at 1:38: you were praising and calling him, when I think he would prefer that you run the next direction and tell him what to do.
So, looking back to the first rep – just add in more connection and a jump cue, and I think he will be happiest. He prefers to not have you praise on course, because it delays directional/obstacle info. And when you are working him like this (on fire!) then you don’t need to praise to help him stay engaged! Cool!!!
Nice work here! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi! I think all of these went better! The timing was either REALLY great or pretty good 🙂 It is hard to get timing with baby dogs because we don’t know exactly what they are going to do LOL!
2 general suggestions to try on these:
as you are doing the FCs or BCs, try to behind more towards 3 and less past 2, if that makes sense? Your running line was a bit of 90 degree angle before you headed to 3, and that was part of what caused him to jump a little wide and not always pick up the new side. Think of it as a send and turn, heading more towards 3 on a sharper angle.when you reward, keep running – you were stopping and throwing and that might dilute deceleration in the future.
Front Crosses:
You can be even faster with the FCs if you htink of them as dropping the dog-side shoulder back to get outta there, rather than bringing your new arm up to start the turn. That will make you one step quicker, which will be very useful 🙂
1st rep – This one was a little late (you were not quite finished as he was jumping) because you didn’t quite lead out enough and he caught up very quickly 🙂 He didn’t read the side change because you were trying to connect with the dog-side arm. He will make quicker adjustments with the arm across the body connection 🙂
2nd rep –
Being further ahead on the release really helped the timing and connection on the 2nd rep! It was great! I really liked this timing, so did he. And it gave you more time to emphasize the connection when he landed.3rd rep was good but not as good as the 2nd rep 🙂 And the last rep was similar to the first rep in timing (a little late) but your connection was much better! So the 2nd rep is the one to repeat – at :13, as he was landing from 1, you were ahead near 2 and already starting the FC so it was done before he took off at :14. Yay!!!!
Blind crosses:
1st rep was a tiny bit late but also emphasize that cross-body connection. If you emphasize that style of connection, timing becomes less important. The 2nd and 3rd reps were better with the timing and connection! You can continue to challenge him to see if he can commit if you start the cues when he lands from jump 1, like you did on rep 2 of the FCs (I loved that one!). When he lands, tell him to jump and start the blind – trusting his commitment 🙂 He is doing really well!>>On a positive note when Chapter was a puppy he would shut down at failure or confusion. I worked really hard on building his stamina to work and I was very proud how he hung in there despite my unclear cues!>>
Yay! This is awesome! He was definitely engaged. And you did a great job of making him feel successful: super fun and lots of rewards 🙂 Lovely work!
Tracy
Hi!
Looking at the skills separately:
The “GO” after the tunnel looks good, just reemmber to say the GO before he goes into it.
On the right and left out of the tunnel: the timing of your verbals and rotation was good! But it was a new skill for him, so he didn’t always turn tight and on the lefts, he took an extra jump 🙂 So let’s isolate the skill for now: rather than having a jump straight out ahead (it is too much of a distraction for now), just have a jump after the turn exit. And, rotate your feet and do the verbal before he goes in, but don’t run too far away yet: let him get his nose out of the exit, then you can turn and run, showing the toy.
The left was much harder for him (not sure why, but it was 🙂 ) and at :53 you stayed there and to get his focus at the exit and help with the turn. Yes! Taking away the distraction jump will help for now, but staying there also helps – but then use the running rewards rather than a dropped toy. You’ll get a better turn and more speed it the reward is moving and not stopping him. He will ‘hurry’ more to the chase than he will to the dropped toy. You did this more at 1:00 and it was great! He will be happy to see lots of reps of this to help him get the turning skills on the tunnel exit.
Because this skill is pretty new to him, I suggest you do a couple of sessions on just the tunnel before adding the turn jump back in – then do a session or two of that before adding the stright/distraction jump back in.
On the big BC up the line: at :29, you can be moving more laterally to the jump after the blind (rather than completely straight) because your lateral motion will help give him a really early turn cue. Timing and conneciton on that one looked good!!! Add in the running rewards though – you stopped, tried to throw the toy and ended up knocking over the wing haha! Keep running through that last jump and reward with him chasing you for it. The next rep (also the rep at 1:24) had a better reward but you can still add in the running rewards. He is reading the blinds REALLY nicely and powering up the line!
On the FC wraps – try not to get too far ahead. Go deeper into the tunnel before running up the line, because you were so far ahead you had a reversed transition: slow then fast then turn (because you were so far ahead, you had to wait for him). Try to show him a more distinct fast-slow-turn transition for two reasons:
first, he will get an even better collection (he did really well here but I think it can be even prettier!)
second – it will produce better footwork for you. By moving then turning without the clear deceleration element of the transition, your momentum pulled you out away from the exit line (back to the next jump). At 1:30, 1:36, 1:42 and 1:49 you can see it – and he looks up a little and comes out of the wrap a little wide (based on your motion). If you decelerate before you turn, you will be able to turn very literally on his mouse line (the path you want, back to the next jump) and get a really gorgeous turn. And then do the running rewards to make it perfect 🙂
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi! The internet ate my first reply, so I will try again 🙂
>>It very similar to our plan here. a) Start off with him tugging/playing with me from car to start, b) start off with a step and then tug c) keep increasing amount of time from car to tugging…. all before he starts grabbing stuff.>>
Yes but also add in talking to him (having verbal cues that can get focus instantly are VERY helpful – I use “ready” for my dogs, for example) and tricks (both with and without primary reinforcement). That way it is not an all or nothing (tug or no tug) but more of a toolbox of things. Also, ping pong the duration because the toy comes out – sometimes short, sometimes longer, so it isn’t always getting more difficult. And yes, all before he grabs stuff – SUPER short sessions. Also, you can leave him in a stay and do a recall to where you want to start, to help build in the fast & fun element (recalls are naturally exciting!)
>>Do you think there is something I could condition him to grab instead of just stuff.
Yes – training alternate, incompatible behaviors are tried & true behavior modification exercises. Ideally the alternate behavior is “cheap” meaning easy and fun to train and execute, and also ideally it is incompatible with the undesired behavior – meaning, it is not similar and the dog cannot do both. For example, a classic incompatible behavior is teaching a dog to sit on a dog bed when someone enters a room, to eliminate jumping on people.
>>Could I train Skye to come grab a cord on my bait bag instead of dirt and rocks? Of course, this wouldn’t work for in the agility ring . .. He needs a mouth occupier, maybe having a cord/fire hose thing from his harness or end of his leash to grab. Or, maybe a leash that he can tug on. He could just turn and grab the leash instead of stuff off the ground.>>
I am all for tugging on a leash as it is a great way to bring reinforcement into the agility ring… it is “cheap” but it is not incompatible because grabbing is grabbing… it is similar. Anything you teach him to grab “instead” becomes a discrimination exercise and you will have to tell him he is correct or not based on what to grab. That can be stressful. And what if he grabs the leash AND mulch? So the leash can be used as a toy, but I don’t think it is a good incompatible behavior. I prefer things like barking (cheap and incompatible) or getting on a raised dog cot or platform – both of which are useful for agility and are not a discrimination, if that makes sense.
On the tunnel exits:
He ran by the jump on the first rep – it was a disconnection moment. Don’t point at the jump, make a very direct eye contact to him as he exits the tunnel. You were looking forward and pulling out the toy, so he came into you. You were much more connected on the 2nd go rep here and he took the jump! Yay! He wasn’t entirely convinced but your connection really helped.
The first turn looked really good! You had your feet turned long before he went in and he was able to read that turn really nicely! he wasn’t as speedy driving out on the 2nd turn but I think it was more because you changed your handling in the middle of it so he hesitated a little bit.
Nice connection to get him to take the jump at 1:35! The bar was high and the toy throw happened while he was jumping, so the bar came down. None of that is a big deal… but then watch what happens when he landed. He slid trying to grab the toy, turned, looked at you, slowed down. picked up the toy… dropped it and started eating mulch. There was a 7 second time span between his landing and your engagement, during which you had turned your back to reset the bar – my guess is that he perceived this as a negative punishment and that caused stress and that caused mulch eating. So – a common handler error is to throw the toy but not engage and instead turn away to the jump. Even though there was a toy presentation, the engagement was withdrawn so it become a bit of textbook negative punishment which increases stress.
Simple fix – always stay engaged, never turn your back on him, always play play play be happy. Then you can put him in a crate to go fix a bar, or on a platform, or in a sit stay for more rewards.When you did re-engage him with food after that, get the food moving – tricks for moving treats, like the treat was a tug toy (he likes that!) That will bring him back to focus faster. He did do the last rep, but then I think he left? The video was over 3 minutes by that point, which is pretty long – plus he was not fully “back” yet from the stress. You can also make the toy throws more engaging by throwing then continuing to run and have a big party, or even having him chase you for the running rewards! I really love to have the dogs keep running after the jump, it is such a fun way to continue to pump up the excitement.
So on the next session, try a super short one-hit wonder session, then a break, and all rewards are super high engagement. You can do several sessions spread out over 10 minutes but you won’t want to do 3 minutes in a row yet.
Let me know what you think!
TracyGood morning!
The backchaining on the 5 jump grid is going well! He was fine on 3 jumps, not as certain on 4 (he wasn’t sure about the release) and definitely not as sure on all 5 (changed his style on 4 and 5). No worries, it is just a matter of experience – so I suggest doing this exact same session in about a week. Start with the backchaining and then work your way back to jump 1 as you did here. He is doing really well so the minor adjustments he is making are perfectly fine 🙂 We don’t need to do the grid til it is perfect – he is more balanced now so it can go into the maintenance rotation to help keep him balanced as he does more sequencing.Bending looks good!!! He seemed slightly better turning to his right but it might have been the camera angle or the angle of entry to the grid. But no really big noticeable difference and definitely no struggles. I suggest revisiting this in 2 ways:
same session as here, but with a 4 foot distance to see if he can bounce it now (I bet he can!)
And, at the 3.5 distance, add in the wing before it for a bit more speed coming inTunnel exits – he did well when you turned your feet and dragged the toy! I played the clips in slow motion and he was most definitely turning on the tunnel exit when he saw your feet turn (:26 & :37, for example on the first video and :34 and :43 and :50 for example on the 2nd video). His turns were fast and accurate on those. No need for the turns to be tighter on that particular line. In the moment, they might have flet wider maybe because he was banking the outside of the tunnel 🙂 But that is fine, it is a fast way to do it 🙂
You won’t need to stay there and plant the toy, because it doesn’t get your feet turned before he enters and that is a critical piece. On the first video at :45 and :52 , you got the toy planted but didn’t get your feet turned as erly so he didn’t turn as well. On the 2nd video at 1:16, your foot rotation and vebal didn’t start until after he was in the tunnel, so he was wider on exit and you didn’t reward… I recommend rewarding that because he wasn’t ignoring you 🙂 Any time a dog turns wide, I just assume it was late information and I reward them – then I look at the video to figure out how I was late 🙂 On the next 2 reps you for the toy in his face but it is really more about letting him see the rotation and hear the verbal before he goes in.
Nice work here! Hope your wrist continues to feel better!!
Tracy
Hi!
Yes, you can use the cue combo FC/BC (spin/ketchsker/Jaakko/ass pass :)) there – the FC would give you a side change and the cue combo would get the tight turn and allow you to continue on the same side you started on (right side on this case, or left side in the mirror image).T
Good morning Jill and Watson!
I hope your rains aren’t too bad, we just finished up 4 days of rain and it was horrible!!!
The straight line grids are going well! His stay looks really good, that is SO important!!!
He is powering in, getting a tiny bit off balance (not too much) then regaining his balance by shifting back on the last 2 intervals. He got better on each rep, so I don’t have any changes to suggestion in terms of your motion, he just needs to see it again maybe once a week. The only suggestion is to make sure he is close enough to the first bar that he has to push off out of his sit over the first jump, rather than have room to tap his front feet down on the takeoff side of the first jump. That will help him figure out how to be more organized as he comes into the grid. He dropped the first bar at :07 because he couldn’t quite get organized AND go fast LOL! He will sort it out with practice – nothing to worry about at all.The bending looks really solid!! My only tweak now is to keep him bending on jump 3, so keep turning back to jump 1 to reward (rather than rewarding straight). He is ready to see the more difficult angle of entry and also the wing wrap before it. Great job!!!!
Tracy
I do a lot of ‘freeze frame’ on the moment when the dog’s nose enters the tunnel, to see the very last thing he saw before entering. As we are working to strengthen the verbal cues, we can use a lot of physical cues that they read easily 🙂
Good morning!
>>. I can’t get much done very quickly this way, but it’s making me learn to get it right on the first rep which is a bonus
You’ll actually get more accomplished – more efficient training, higher rates of success – fewer reps needed. YAY! You don’t need to do a million reps of these – you can do a couple then move on.
The first rep here looked really good. He was on fire 🙂 Nice send for jump 3 so you easily got the blind in the right spot at the right time. I think you were surprised at how well he read it!
When you sent him back through that middle section, he just needed more connection at :32 for the blind. Your dog-side arm was at your side and low, but it needs to be back and out of the way so he can see the connection to make the side change. Keep emphasizing the arm-across-the-body to help with that connection.3rd rep – also very nice! I was going to suggest that you do the blind sooner based on your position, he can see you already being done with it when he exits the tunnel (because your position was very clear). But I don’t need to suggest it because that is exactly what you did on the 4th rep! Yay! On both of these – he did a great job driving his line on the jumps and tunnel, and you were super connected! My only tweak is to keep getting your dog-side arm back on the re-connection after the blinds, so you can make that immediate strong eye contact.
It looks like his tugging and engagement were spot on (no pun intended :)) throughout the session! Your handling doesn’t have to be perfect the first time, your handling was really strong here and you created a successful, high value, speedy session. Perfect! You’ll find that these types of sessions build skills better than more frequent sessions. Great job!
Now… spread out the distances for the next session to see what happens when there is more distance and more speed 🙂 Have fun!
Tracy
