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Hi! I am glad you had fun, it was great having you here!!!
There is a pre-game coming for the Part 2 class – it will be posted either late tomorrow or Monday morning 🙂Sorry for any confusion! Try to start him in a different position – rather than a straight line to the first jump, have his nose facing parallel to the bar (rather than perpendicular) and his butt will be near the wing of jump 3, so that he has to approach the bar already turning, rather than be straight to it and turn when he is landing. Let me know if that makes sense or if I need more coffee 🙂
Hi! Sorry for the delay, I waited til I was back in decent internet to see if my connection would work. But, looks like YouTube is doing the frozen thing again? Can you check this clip and see if it work?
Thanks!
TracyVery fun to see this!! She seemed to have no trouble with the commitment on the send and she also seemed to really like the tunnel and the running. Yay!! So now that the commitment has been built so nicely, we can switch gears and let her feel the wind in her hair 🙂 Start her close to the wing, maybe 6 feet, with you lateral but only 6 feet away – and send and then let her rip to the tunnel 🙂 That will help build up even more speed there, so she runs to the wing. Right now she is being careful but accurate – so now we can keep the accuracy and give her ‘permission’ to be less careful but moving it all closer for a while – when she is almost as fast going to the wing as she is going to the tunnel, you can start adding a little more distance to spread it back out 🙂
Nice work! Keep me posted!
TracyGood morning!
Glad you enjoyed your vacation!!!
And yes, video shows all – I see myself doing all sorts of weird things when I watch a video LOL!!! But overall this is looking great and yes, that is what I meant by rewarding the first head turn. I’m really liking what he is doing, especially when you started a little further back so he had a little more speed – he was still being slithery 🙂 yessss! So now, let’s build it! The goal is to see him slowing down upon approach to the cone or wing so he can turn his head – the slowing down will translate to weight shift and collection on a jump, before takeoff. Start about 8 to 10 feet back from the cone/wing, and get him excited, then send – and for the first rep or two, do a double wrap (since you will be further away, use an exaggerated hand cue to get the 2nd wrap). Reward the head turn on the 2nd wrap. If he is doing well, you can shift to rewarding the head turn on the first wrap, but look at it differently: watch him approach, and click/mark any deceleration or head turn as he approaches the wing or cone, then place the reward as you would on a wrap. You can also add a turn and burn as a reward, I think he would love that 🙂
Let me know if this makes sense and how it goes!
TracyOh no, sounds so awful 🙁 the photos on the news look so scary 🙁 keep me posted! I don’t think you are being flaky at all, I think you’re had a bumpy road. Fingers crossed for easier times ahead so you can keep playing and posting!
Tholy cow she is SPEEDY on some of these, as if the video is in fast forward LOL!!
Bouncing is a hind end skill and young dogs often don’t realize they have a hind end LOL! So we teach them 🙂 On the minny pinny, try it with just 2 of the jumps at a 5 foot distance (from the center of each bar) and see what she does.
On the line of jumps – that is something we call a balance grid, and I love that type of technique training! You can break it down for her – start with 3 jumps, low height, 6 feet apart from center to center. Leave her pretty close to jump 1 so she does NOT have a running start (so she has to push of from her rear). You lead out 10 feet past jump 3, put a reward on the ground, release her and stand still – that is usually the starting point to get the bouncing. Here is a visual, one of my youngsters doing this for the first time when she was 10 months old. Her distances are 4 feet because she is only 16″ tall, so Keiko should be approx 6 feet. If she adds strides at 6 feet, tighten it to 5 feet. If she tries to takes several jumps as one, lengthen it to 7 or 8 feet just to get the concept rolling.
Let me know how it goes!
TracyWow, great job! I love the distance! You can incorporate that tunnel that is nearby – do a lateral send to the barrel then keep her on the line to the tunnel, yeehaw! Fun! I think she is also ready for you to replace the barrel with a jump wing here (you can also do a lateral lead out to the tunnel – we often see tunnels as start obstacles especially if you do AKC!) This skill can get built into a lot of different things since she is doing so well with it 🙂
Tracy
Hi –
>>Fizz hurt himself yesterday going for a dead toy so now I’m all freaked out about dead toy reinforcement. 🙁>>>If he OK? What did he do? Ouch, poor guy. I have gone to using a giant hollee roller if I want a dead toy so the pup can just scoop it up, otherwise I just use the manners minder. Young dogs don’t seem to are enough about their bodies, poor things!
>>I was trying toy ahead and food from my hand. This was mostly good except the last one where I was out of position and he ticked the wing.>>
I think this looks really good! You can play with moving faster so you are out of the way and up the line more – he is bending nicely so just needs more view/room on the line. You can also tuck the Pet Tutor in behind the wing to reward behind you as you start to run forward, or the PT out ahead if he is going to slam himself trying to get the toy. He is being pretty thoughtful with his body around the wing, so on the 2nd and 3rd reps you were a little too close and that hitched the line around the wing. Also, looking at his head position – feeding from the hand causes him to look up at you when you aren’t moving that fast, so you can either move faster and have him chase your hand, or trigger the PT sooner so he can drive to it without looking up at you. A toy that he won’t splat himself for would be good, but we can totally stick with the PT for ‘placed’ rewards so he doesn’t break himself!
>>I didn’t do any work today. I’m so paranoid now. Why are dogs?!>>
I totally feel that pain! As long as he isn’t hurting, you can work him on things that he won’t slam himself into, like the PT as the reward because he will be careful coming into it. The giant hollee roller and also a really big Jolly Ball are good too – things these dogs can grab, at a run, without having to slow down to get them so they don’t end up slamming or twisting their bodies. It might not be as high value as a toy on the ground.
Keep me posted on how he is doing!
TracyHi there! Great question! I have seen him do this on your videos, so I know what you are talking about. We ideally want the dogs to look at us, but it is NOT necessarily a MUST for now. Not all dogs want to look at us because there is a fair amount of pressure on the start lines. My 12 year old dog, when she was competing, used to have to hold a stay sideways to the first jump and she would find a point to stare at that was unrelated to the first line (and definitely wasn’t me or the first jump). It was the only way she could manage her arousal. It freaked me out at first but then I just went with it: she never broke her stay, never dropped the first bar, and always read the first line correctly. (She would often stare at the judge before the release, which freaked the judge out and was very entertaining for me hahaha). My Pap, Nacho, would always hold his stay and look away until the release for the first year or so of competing. And Export, my oldest dog, could never really look at me when lining up – he would just stare at whatever. But he always held his stay and always got the first line right. So….I just figure dogs are weird, and so am I haha!! I do play games with my younger dogs to help them want to look at me, so Voodoo, Nacho, and the 3 youngsters all now watch me as I lead out – more for my sake than for their sakes hahaha.
A couple of ideas for you to try:
– You can jog/run to your lead out position – it makes it a bit more challenging for the stay, but that is fine because he seems to have a great stay!
– You can talk to him as you are jogging/running to your lead out position. Either “gooooood booooooooy” or “ready ready ready” depending on whether you think he needs a bit of support to hold the stay as you run, or a bit of pumping up. I use “gooooood booooooy” with Voodoo and “ready ready ready” with Nacho.
– if you are going to be standing still during the release – when you are arrive at your position, crouch a little by bending your knees and breathe in through your mouth like you are using a straw to inhale… that gets focus!
– sometimes, release while you are running to your lead out position – be less predictable :). This is especially useful on straight line openings or big extension line openings like when you are running into a blind cross.
– mix in a lot of what I call “throw back rewards” – when I am moving away from any of my dogs in a stay position, I randomly say “catch” and throw a reward back to them. It can be a treat or a toy and it is relatively unpredictable. Sometimes I do it when I am moving to position after just a few steps, or after 20 steps, or anything in between. Sometimes I do it when I arrive in position for the release and stand still. It is interesting for them so they tend to look at me the whole time. I also do this at trials, when running in UKI for example: I leave the toy and Leash behind them (or MM outside the ring for Nacho) and sometimes release forward to start the course, and sometimes give them the “get your toy” cue to reward the stay (for an NFC run). UKI is great in that a toy can. one into the ring for every run, real Q runs or NFC runs, so it really helps the dogs understand the procedures 🙂
Let me know if this makes sense and how he does!
TracyYay! Keep me posted! I figure we can simulate agility trial distractions as best as possible, without going to agility trials or classes 🙂
Hi! yes, you and I are on the same page about the land and go, land and go – Keiko was on a different page and she was reading these mostly as cavalettis 🙂 the balance on these bending cavalettis looks AWESOME (cavalettis are really great for balance, strength, so many things!) and she definitely thought we wanted cavalettis when you moved them in closer. She did give a little bit of the bouncing when the bars were a little further apart at the beginning and I also think what will produce the bounce is if you turn your shoulders rather than stand still. That can help give her ‘permission’ to move with more impulsion over the bars – I think standing still is telling her we want decelerations so she is doing them cavaletti-style. So, add in turning your shoulders like a big post turn and let’s see what she does, using the distances you had at the beginning (the distances at the end are tight enough that she will still want to trot :))
Nice work here!!!
T
Wow, she looks awesome here!!! her head was so cute on the first rep when you started moving: mom, where are you going? Then she was perfect – tons of independent commitment happening here and you are pretty far past the jump when you release her. Nice!!! You can mix up the timing of the release now, just to add variety: sometimes release when you are still on the landing side for a regular serp – your line of motion will continue on that side, parallel to the bar, no counter motion. And sometimes you will do the counter motion that you did here and release when you are past the wing. Let me know if that makes sense 🙂 Her stays are looking fabulous too!!!! Great job 🙂
TracyGood morning!
>>She’ll ignore “dead” toys and open food, no problem. I’m beginning to ramp that up by making the toys more alive, especially a thrown tennis ball or me shaking her flirt.
Sounds like great next-steps for the progression!
>>Her Daddy is a huge distraction, and so we have him come out and watch us practice. So far, she is able to do little things, but can’t do too much before she wants to visit him. She will come back to me, once she checks in with him. At this time, he has to be inside the ring. If he’s on the outside of the ring, she just wants to be with him. Her other over the top distraction is our oldest dog who loves to run back and forth on the other side of something, like a section of fence, or going around a planted area. When they’re both on the same side, it’s no big deal. But running back and forth or around with something between them is thrilling. That chase drive kicks in.>>
These are great distractions to have access to, especially since you can control them 🙂 You can start by just seeing if she will do the simple tricks for treats/toys with the distractions visible but not terribly exciting. Then, as the distractions get closer and/or move more, ramp up the excitement level of the tricks and rewards. It is a great way to both teach her to ignore them and also to see what helps her the most when there is a big distraction present.
>>Unfortunately, we are not in an agility class at this time. The classes we are taking are things like “Hiking with your dog” and “Out and About”. So she is with other dogs in controlled (on leash) outside public situations, and has to do obedience things in that context. If you have any other suggestions, please share. >>
These are good real-world classes in a time when we don’t have access to our normal agility classes. I think the first thing to do is identify what distracts her – probably stuff like other dogs running :). And, see if you can get her to do the obedience games/tricks/tugging while that is happening. Maybe the classmates can assist by providing distractions like doing fast recalls while you are setting her up in a stay, kind of like a dog finishing a run when you are moving to the start line? I also like to do criss-cross recalls (with safe dogs in safe environments, of course :)) or side-by-side recalls, to simulate running a course while other dogs are also moving (2 ring trials!). I like to throw in flatwork handling in these recalls too 🙂
Let me know if that makes sense!
T
