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Hi! So good to see you here 🙂
>>. I’m worried that a nose touch to item in my palm *right now* might be confusing. Can I just use my palm for the time being until the paw touch to target is trained to the point of being on cue?>>
Yes – and you can also do a nose touch to an object sticking out of your hand, like a spoon or spatula or something! So it would be 3 distinct behaviors, the more the merrier 🙂
T
Hi! Feel free to use your arms as you would on course 🙂 For all of my serpentines, I personally only use the dog-side arm and chest rotation (not really a dip, more of an upper body facing the bar). So on the proofing game, I use the serp posture the dog would see on course. If you use a cross arm (opposite arm) for your serps – then you can totally use it here as that is what your dogs would see on course.
Same with threadles when we get to them – use whichever arm(s) your dog will be seeing on course 🙂
Now about the reward… you can have it in the serp arm and then move the arm to reward (or toss the reward) or you can have the reward out there, like a manners minder – it will also be a great distraction for the tunnel cues 🙂
Let me know if that makes sense!
TracyHi! I hope you are feeling better!!
On the serp – You can totally use a jump cue and his name. That should work nicely!!
On the wrap game – yes, I do use the verbals to mean turn away but not yet in this game 🙂 You will see more of that very soon
LOL!! I mean, you could use it in this game but I like to proof one concept at a time, at first, before adding in another one. T
Hi Dixie!
>> Both dogs did great on the wrap exercises and had plenty of drive. But when we worked on the serp. exercises they lost their drive…
This is interesting! Yay for the wraps!!!! On the serps: It might be that they didn’t get jazzed up with you standing still and also serpentines have us basically facing them – which is also not very exciting LOL! So yes you can line them up further away and see how it goes. Were they coming in, but just not doing it fast? The other thing you can do is add ‘action’ by throwing the rewards behind you when they come in towards you. That builds in some excitement when you standing still. And if they are foodies, do you have a lotus ball or a manners minder? They might like chasing the lotus ball. You can also tuck a manners minder in to where you would normally reward and see if they like that! I might have video of that somewhere, I will look for it!
Keep me posted 🙂
Hi! I love the new prop and also love those carpets! So fun!
Now on the rocking horses, he was having a little trouble letting you leave early. So on the forward sends and sideways sends here, you can add in leaving early: send exactly like you did here, but just before he gets to the prop you can slowly (oh so slowly) release the send cue by relaxing your arm (the first part of leaving). Then you can click/treat as he continues to hit the prop. That will build into you being able to walk the other direction as he sends past to the prop. Then we transfer it to the barrels 🙂 Do that first on the forward and sideways sends, starting pretty close to the prop, but don’t add it to the backwards sends until he is really comfy with it on the forward and sideways sends. Those backwards sends are really hard, so no need to add countermotion to them yet.
Great job here!!!!
TracyHi!
>>Our first session was brilliant, but someone forgot to hit “record” on the video, so we don’t get to review it.>>
OMG I hate when that happens! We get all excited about a great session, go to turn off the camera… and it was not on. UGH! But as long as it was brilliant, we don’t need to review it (just bask in it LOL!)
On this video: this is also brilliant 🙂 He is doing well! I think in the slowing down moments, it was more about the timing of you stepping into the FC? For example at :18, :39 and :55, you started stepping back into the FC just as he was approaching the basket and so he hesitated. I didn’t read that as a Cookie Monster moment 🙂 but more of a “wait, are we turning now?”moment. When you were more patient on starting the FC (like at 1:03, and also you were perfectly patient on all the reps when you moved the baskets further apart and when the toy was in play) he was not sticky there at all, he was very smooth. So it is possible that you were just a tiny bit too early for his current understanding of the ‘turn and burn’ momma-gonna-leave-early FCs 🙂
Yes, it is sometimes easy to feel the connection breaks like on that first rep of the more distance! But also sometimes harder to feel them because we can still peripherally see the dog even though we have broken connection and they are not sure where to be: that is what happened at 1:26 when he almost ended up on your right. You had connection for a moment then before he passed you, you pointed forward. He was far enough behind you that he read it as a blind cross cue, so he was changing sides. In those moments, try not to give a verbal marker that he might be wrong (because he might be right LOL!), just either let him go and reward, or call his name to the new side and reward. I used to think my dogs were trying to grab the toy or cookie in those moments until I saw the disconnect in the video. We can’t see your eyes here, but we can see the shoulder and hand movement and that is why he read the blind cue (it is a really natural cue for the dogs 🙂 why can’t running contacts be as natural? ha!)
The rest of the reps were super smooth on the session! He is getting better and better at committing, so you will be able to start rotating earlier and earlier. Nice work!!!
TracyHi!
Great job here! The tighter quarters are fine for this, definitely better than freezing LOL!
He did REALLY well here. The click/treat warm up was fine but his value for the spoon was strong! Try to have both treats ready before you throw the first one, so you can be ready and in position the instant he turns back to you. He is wise to the game now, and was getting his cookie and turning back to you in a heartbeat so you were still getting ready LOL!!!
One detail about the spoon – for now, lower your hand so he can keep his nose either straight or slightly lowered to hit it, and not have to look up. Dipping your shoulder downwards should get it done. He was having to reach up a little to get it and we want him driving in with his head a little lowered.You asked about position – at this point, you can place yourself at the wing (about an arm’s length away), with your belly button facing the center of the wing. Your spoon arm will still be between the uprights and your feet will be pointed towards the reward hand. That will add more challenge for the serps and set you up perfectly for the game we add on this Tuesday 🙂
Great job here – I love how he is driving right in then bending so nicely the next direction!!
TracyHi! You got some decent snow! We have about 3 minutes of snow and it was gone within an hour 🙂
This is going well! The snow adds a new distraction and he was fine with it. He did well on the straight line and the angles. On the left side tight turn angle when he almost got it – I think he was offended when you chuckled at him LOL!! I mean, it was really funny though haha! He wanted more info, he was being very serious LOL!!! So when you asked him to line up again he said “just the facts, ma’am” so it was fine to help him out and cue the tunnel again. It seemed like his only question on this session.
The threadle angles looked really good in both directions! If you are seeing that his questions tend to come more on left turns that are tight, you can add in easier version of the tight left turns – starting closer or making it more obvious, so he still turns tightly but it is a shade easier. You can teach concepts on the stronger side first, and do more of those than the harder side. Generally, we balance out any side preference with conditioning further down the road, and in training we do the intro of concepts on the easier side til they are underway, then move to the harder side, then back to the easier side so you end up doing more easy side concepts. When the concepts are well-understood, he won’t have to multi-task as much so he will have an easier time executing on the side that is not as strong. Let me know if that makes sense! Great job!
TracyHi!
She did well here! Since every dog is an individual, I have some Ruby-specific ideas for you. She reminds me of my Elektra (the small black and white pup), lots of opinions and very busy but also very smart!When she is in the sit and you are not moving (just looking at her) you can totally praise with a quiet gooooood giiiiirl. I think when you are looking at her but not saying anything, she is wondering if she should offer behavior or just sit there. You added the praise at 2:03 and she was much more settled. When you are moving away, I think she will know if it is a stay game so you won’t need to praise.
Now I see what you mean about her not always wanting to sit. You can help her with the verbal sit cue and you can also do a hand touch line up if she knows that? And, maybe try this game with a tug toy – it is possible that Ruby, like my Elektra, thinks that sitting for treats is dull and would prefer more ACTION haha! So, you can totally do this with a tug toy as the reward. That provides action but is also great for building in a bit of self-control 🙂 while keeping it super fun.
Nice work here! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi! She was super confident on this game! You can add challenge by narrowing the channel of the long jump boards so she has less room to line up. And I see what you mean by her having so much fun that she was being a leaping monkey LOL! You can help convince her to NOT do that by putting the MM on the far edge of the table – and click it as soon as you see her butt line up on the board entry. That can kill 2 birds with one stone: marking her excellent decision to line up, and getting her to stop on the table and not leap off 🙂
Let me know what you think! Nice work on all of these!
TracyHi!
She looked surprised on the first rep but then was really good!! It does not have a lot of action, so you can use this mat behavior differently since she is not doing a running dog walk. You can add a verbal to it (hit it, for example) and then use it in the contact discrimination game! It can be a contact replacer for now until the full height contacts are ready for discrimination training 🙂And of course you can add motion to make it more exciting for her 🙂 It is deliberately dull when we are starting running dog walks because there is sooooo much running on those and we want the dogs to be calm at first. But we can add in some wildness for Keiko right away and see how she does!
T
Hi!
>> most of the runs, I was pre-placing the reward, which should have meant she just rant ahead and didn’t look at me. I can certainly try to learn how to aim and drop the treat, but I thought having it pre-placed would be even better (?). >>
For the pre-placed treats, you can introduce a new thing (like more motion) then fade the treats in advance to see if she can make a decision – then throw in the reward. You will get very good with your aim 🙂 You can also toss the lotus ball back to her, that might be easier to throw?
>>Perhaps I need to start staying farther away and vary where I’m standing/running as she moves along the ramp?>>
Yes, mix in different things and see how she does 🙂
T
Hi!
Good sessions here! I think she is wanting to look at you and target, which was making it harder for her. So a couple of ideas for you:
When she is barking and looking at you, you can call her back and reset. You can totally send her with a ready ready and then an interim cue of some sort. On the first video, when it is clicks and treats without the MM, try to have the treat come really fast so she doesn’t have tine to look at you. When the MM is in play like on the 2nd video, let’s tweak the game a little to emphasize moving away from you and not looking at you: have her start next to you, give her a little “ready ready” moment – then send her. You can jump start that by rewarding for any hit of the mat moving away (click the MM) and then you can delay a little to get the back feet marked. Then, rather than reward her for coming back over the mat (where she will want to look at you), you can call her back to you around it, reward, then set her up and send her again. I think that can help her not look at you, which will also help get rid of the barking. Let me know if that makes sense! She is doing well so this should take us to the next level 🙂
TracyHi!
Yes, someone loves his crate very much LOL! I have an idea for his tunnel – put his pet tutor out at the other end of it, where he can see it (he has a PT, right?) and then try this game. That might change things LOL! The visual of the PT might balance out the crate love and make it harder to respond to the crate cue.But overall, it was a really good session! This is harder than it looks (we are also playing it in the ‘grown up dog’ proofing class) and there are definite head explosions. I think he did a really good job finding both on a verbal only and we can definitely balance out the value of the crate. Did he do Susan Garrett’s crate games as a pup? There is so much value on those games, that the crate is such a big distraction. And that is great, because we can use that to help teach discriminations 🙂
Nice work on these!!!
TracyHi!
He is doing a great job on his stay, which allows you to just think about the handling. Very cool!
On the BC and FC lead outs, try to be more at 3 (or moving towards it), you were a little but moving towards 2 on the release then back to 3. So try be moving to 3 very directly on the BCs, or standing on the far wing of 3 on the FCs (old school lead out pivot position LOL!) and release: it makes it more challenging to find 2 but I think he will be fine 🙂 His commitment looked great!
I agree that your timing on the BC at 1:00ish was rocking!!! You trusted his commitment and he rose to the occasion 🙂 He was also really good at reading your position on the FCs, turning nicely over 2.
He read the lead out push reps really nicely, but he was wondering why you were not moving and facing him so much LOL!!! He is like Voodoo at that age…. sooooo much collection on the lead out pushes LOL!! So you can start closer to 2 and try to leave a little sooner. And then we put that type of lead out away until he needs more collection on 2 on this type of lead out (although this generation of dog is being trained differently and my guess is that will never need to be sledgehammered into more collection on this type of opening :))
Great job!
Tracy
