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Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterWhen I watch videos and the a dog kind of ‘loses’ a skill that had been going just fine, I always check the time stamp (I am a little odd LOL!) and it is almost always between 90 seconds and 2 minutes. It is really fascinating!!! I develop an internal timer and my sessions are almost all just under 2 minutes long because I am so used to having a timer running LOL!
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
>> It’s funny because many people told me I was going to have be really animated and energetic in my training when they found out I was getting a whippet – I think these kind of whippets bring their own party though haha! Not that I can’t be fun, but exactly what you said, I have to be more strategic about when I turn that on.>>
Exactly, be strategic!!! These racing/working lines of whippet bring their own party indeed LOL!!!!!
>>So for the Rocking Horse game, sometimes he doesn’t look directly at my eyes, so it’s hard to get that really connected eye contact with him. Is that okay?
Yes! That brings up a good point – when I talk about connection (which I do a LOT haha), I mean human connection to dog eyes. The dog does not and should not look back at us. If we are properly connected, the pup will not look back at you at all – he will look at his ‘work’ and that is correct 🙂
>>We worked on the Get Out game, I’m using “away” for my verbal, since I worry “get out” sounds too much like my “get it.”
Smart! Makes total sense.
>> This was hard for me and I had to practice it without him a couple times before I felt ready. My feet want to point at the prop lol!
ha! That is why I had to put lines on the ground for myself 🙂
>>Can you explain exactly when I will use this cue? Like in the example video of you running your black dog – what if that jump weren’t so far off the line you are on? Would you use your dog side arm to cue the jump? He is turning around on the prop sometimes when he hits it – kind of like the rear crosses lol – is this okay? or should I do something to keep him moving ahead and not circling back?
I recommend using this any time the dog has to move away from the parallel line you are running to pick up an obstacle or line – and then either remain parallel to you or come back towards you – all while you need to be running like mad up the course and it would be inefficient (at best) or make it impossible to get to the next spot (at worst) on course.
If the jump is not that far away and the next part of the course doesn’t urgently require me to be there, then I can move towards it (turning feet towards it, running to it, like a serp) but I would still keep my dog side arm relatively out of the picture (pointing with the dog side arm tends to do more harm than good).
If he is turning around the prop like a RC, there is possibly too much pressure so he legit thinks it is a rear cross, so be sure your feet are straight and also you can probably soften your upper body send. And, make sure you toss the reward out ahead past it so he drives forward to get it and doesn’t turn back.Here are 2 clips of me using the cue – I will try to find some more.
https://youtu.be/E-PmkS6SXig?t=20 (starting at :20)>>A few posts back you asked me if he had a stay or could stay on a station. He does not. It’s a case of “there are so many things to teach a puppy and I haven’t gotten to it”
I feel that! He is old enough to begin working the stay. I usually don’t make a big deal of it til the pups are about 6 months old, then I start teaching it.
>>Our food-toy switching is really going south lol. If he even thinks there is a chance of getting a treat, he will not engage with the toy at all. I’ve tried keeping the toys in a container on a shelf at one end of the room and playing with the toy on the other end. Also, putting the treats in another room and playing with the toy and then going in the other room to get a treat, and then going back to playing in the other room. If there are treats at stake, he only wants the food. The ONE exception seems to be the flirt pole. He seems to be fine with eating a treat and going back to flirt pole. I’m not sure what to do, as switching from food back to toy seems to be getting harder and harder for him.>>
That is pretty normal. So you can use the flirt pole a lot! And you can tie several toys together so they are really long and wild and dragging on the ground, like a flirt pole. And separately from training (where he is probably conditioned to expect food), and with no food around, do some toy play and also do some training games with just a toy or two. That will help bring back the value of the toy play.
>>We did work on the Rocking Horse Game with a toy in my hand, and there was a little bit of struggle. I’ve never cued the wrap with a toy in my dog-side hand so that was new for him. But overall, I think he did well. No chomping!>>
The rocking horses with a toy in hand is HARD!!! Gold star for no chomping!!!!
On your away video – I see what you are saying about the turning back – it looks like it was just because you were standing still and he wants to turn to his right 🙂 when you switched sides, he could turn to his right and stay on the parallel line. So the answer to fix it is… just add motion and that was the next step anyway LOL!! He did really well here! So, onwards to step 2 where you are moving up the line and giving your away cue, like you did here. My only suggestion is to keep your arm a little lower, more at the height of your hip and less at shoulder height.
Rocking horses look good! He had a little trouble ‘finding’ the second wing, for 2 reasons I believe – he doesn’t turn left as well as he turns right, at the moment. And, as he is coming around the wing from the right turn, your dog-side arm was a little forward blocking connection. So, keep that arm waaaaaay back and make eye contact and let him get almost to your hip… then cue the next wing. He won’t necessarily look back at you, and that is fine 🙂 Your eye contact is just being used to tell him where you want him to be.
He was great about ignoring the toy! So you can try to see if he will do some wraps for the toy – you can throw it after the wrap and see how he does!Great job!!!!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterGreat question!
For Voodoo – yes, I use “close” for both but it is not great to do that. So for Hot Sauce, Elektra and Contraband, I use separate verbals because I have found sequences where only having one verbal is not clear enough for the dog. So, for the younger dogs, my verbals will be:
“Close” is a threadle slice on a jump (can be opposite hand or dog-side hand, depends on the situation)
“Kiss” is a tunnel threadle (other side of tunnel) (always opposite hand)And I will eventually have a threadle-wrap cue but it is a very low priority right now.
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterGood morning!
These look great! You layered in the distractions so nicely that she saw them but was super successful, even on the taller bar – I don’t think I have seen her jump 20 before and it looks great (I think that was 20?). My only suggestion for the distractions is that you can connect less 🙂 Disconnection is a fabulous distraction!
When you added the set point before the tunnel, how far apart were the 2 jumps? It looks like they were far enough that she could stride rather than ‘bounce’, so move then in closer – 6 feet for her size, but if she can still squeeze in a stride, move then to 5 feet apart so she lands and takes off, rather than land, stride, take off. And when they are 5 feet apart, only do it going towards the tunnel. If you do tunnel to the set point, she might crank her shoulders trying to fit into the gap there (doing the tunnel to the jump was fine on the single jump, more opportunity for proofing LOL!)You can add challenge in 2 ways – start her a lot further back, so she is coming in even faster! And, you can start with both of you facing away from the jump, then turn and run to it so she has to sort it out without looking at it for a while, if that makes sense 🙂
Great job!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi! You were brilliantly distracting here 🙂 She did really well!!! I agree about still rewarding the ticked bar even if you had caught it in the moment: ticking the bar is still a better jumping effort than dropping the bar, plus it is really hard to pinpoint being the reason there is no immediate reward. I think a bar on the ground, the bar has moved, is a bit more obvious (but even with that, I am not always sure we communicate it as well as I would like, so if there is going to be a consequence then I always choose to err on the side of extra reinforcement :)) I prefer to look back and say “perhaps I should not has rewarded that” rather than “perhaps I should not have punished that” (I consider the delay/withholding to be a negative punishment). It is easier to recover reinforcement errors than punishment errors – perhaps that is me just being warm-fuzzy or anecdotal but it does make training a more fun time 🙂
So you can do something like start both of you facing the other direction here, then on the flat turn and race to the tunnel – no connection, lots of loud yelling, etc 🙂 Then maybe tunnel – jump – tunnel, or tunnel to a pinwheel back to the tunnel to add a tiny bit of turn on the jump before the tunnel. Let me know if that makes sense, I can draw it out if it doesn’t 🙂
Great job!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi there!
>> In general what I am noticing is that my timing sucks 🙂
It doesn’t suck, it is in progress 🙂 Timing with young dogs is difficult: they are still learning the skills so they don’t read the beginning of the cue, they need to see the full cue which means we have to be earlier to show it to them. Also, they keep getting faster so we need to keep getting faster too… and it takes me a couple of sessions to catch up when that happens LOL!
>> I am about a year into learning my left and rights, turns out it is a harder skill than I thought. I do rehearse them but I need to work that process more.>>
Relatable!!!! It takes time to get the newer verbals into our mental muscle memory.
>>“don’t give a forward cue until the head is turned to the line”. So I have lots of questions on this one.
Teehee 🙂 It is a a big statement LOL!
>>>When entering a tunnel and I want an extension exit (straight), it is OK to give the cue because essentially she is pointing in the correct direction. Correct?
Yes – because you are naming the tunnel exit and she is already committed to the tunnel. But my statement is more about giving the commitment cue to a tunnel, for example, rather than an exit cue. Commitment to the tunnel will allow me to then use an exit cue.
>> On the RC, if I get the head turned and then say go (my brain processing slower than hers) and I setting her up for waiting for my commands (ie, slower)?
Nope – because you will see where her head is pointing and deliver the info – so on the RC that went wrong, she was looking straight past the jump, towards the weaves – and when you said go, that affirmed the line and she stayed on it. So you can get her a different directional there (out, or right, or whatever fits) and when her head turns to the line you want, then you can say the next cue.
To put it in a different context: replace the weaves with a tunnel and replace the rear cross jump with a different tunnel. And ‘go’ and ‘tunnel’ are both forward cues… so you will not want to say ‘go’ or tunnel’ til you know which one she is looking at because she is going to go into whichever tunnel she is looking at when you say the verbal.
>>As the dog gets older and begins to read your mind can you ease up on this “rule”?
Not in my experience 🙂 I put a lot of forward on my dogs, so that is how I learned this rule LOL!! Voodoo finally got it through my thick skull 🙂 The difference is that as the dogs get older, we are seeing them better so it is easier to time cues, plus they can predict us better so they are reading the subtleties of motion better, so they are less likely to be looking the ‘wrong’ way. But I make it a point to be sure of where the dog is looking before I give physical or verbal forward cues, and I will keep working a turn if the dog is not yet looking the correct direction.
>>Another question came to mind. Is it better to go back and both of us get good at this course? Or should I keep setting up similar stuff and keep learning that way? Obviously, if something stands out as a deficit in a learned skill I need to simplify and teach it.>>
I think it does you no good if she learns the sequence, because then she is just running it from memory and isn’t responding. I prefer to set up different stuff or use the same course but do balances on each sequence, so the dog is always delivering feedback on my cues rather than running it because he knows it. For example, Contraband has been learning figure 8s on barrels – and now I am adding other handling cues to them beyond just FCs. When he first sees the barrels at the start of each session, though, he just starts offering the figure 8s without me – he has learned the sequence LOL! So we don’t want Zing to remember the course and do it because she has learned it (she is more than smart enough to remember it) – I vote for do different things 🙂
T
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi! Yes, this is exactly right! And yes, he did misjudge how to approach the jump at :26 – he was trying to organize his front feet and forgot to tell his rear to push off. But, smart dog, he fixed it for the next rep and had much better organization coming around the wing! He was having a little bit of trouble on the other end too, but that last rep was really spot on in terms of technique. All of these reps had him turning to his right, so be sure to also switch sides so he has to practice turning to his left to get into the grid just to be sure he is balanced on both sides. If he looks balanced on left and right turn entries, then you can raise the bars a notch 🙂
Great job!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
>>Well, I tried the novice sequences one more time hoping for improvement. It seemed as though things that went well before went awry this time. Sigh. I’m hoping you see something that is better at least.>>
I think you are too hard on yourself 🙂 SO MUCH GOOD in these videos!! (And you know that I will tell you if I think something is sucky hahaha!!) Yes, there were a little blooper moment here to there, but they were small and no big deal. His speed looks fabulous! And your connection looks really sharp. These sequences are hard, so my mantra is ‘progress not perfection’ – and you had DEFINITE progress here. YAY! Some thoughts for you:
Video 1:
I think this went nicely!! The RC at 3 is hard with all of the speed –
it is a bit of a RC on the flat, so make sure you turn his head away before indicating the jump – I turn the head away with the outside arm on those before turning my feet – I think you were mainly trying to do it with your feet which made it a little harder. They are similar to tandem turns. You got your feet turned sooner at :25 and definitely at :47.
Really nice lines here on the FC 6-7! And great send and leave at 7!Video 2:
About that blind, you wre only a little in his way 🙂 2 ideas for you:
I think you were generally in the right spot at :05 but you can accelerate more to get there, really drive like your pants are on fire 🙂 so that way you are moving forward 3-4 and not sideways for a couple of steps to get there.
Your timing is really good! The other idea is to connect more directly to his eyes and across your body (exit line connection) rather than using your left hand. What appeared to be happening was that even though your timing of starting the blind was lovely, you were using the left side to reconenct – so as he is jumping, he will see more connection and can line himself up sooner to get to the correct line.Great job on very quick steps to get your feet pointed into the gap 5-6 for the convergence (also, great connection!) – he had a great turn there! When you are more comfy with it, it will be even easier to peel away to the tunnel.
Video 3 – the first thing I notice about this run is that he has found a new gear of speed. Wheeee! It will change your timing a little and you’ll need to move faster – but that is great! I love that he keeps getting faster!
Nice warm up to practice the backside. On the full run – he is doing a very good job of finding the 4 backside independently. You had a little too much giddy up on the send and leave at 5 so he was indeed a bit wide at :35 and :55 – you stayed in acceleration until he lifted off, then said tight and left. Try to gauge that starting no later than landing, so you can even decel as he is jumping 4 to be ready to send and leave at 5 (in your defense, he was a step faster there and you might have been going on the rhythm you expected rather than what he was giving you :)) I thought your connection was fine there, it was more of a late send than a connection error.
Great job on the 7 backside – nice independent send and he had a lovely turn – all while you left to get up the next line, which produced a ton of speed. My only suggestion here is that as you decel to send and turn, do the decel with your feet forward and not turning – so he commits on a straighter line and doesn’t think you want him to come towards you when you turn your feet too soon. His commitment and turn at :58 was really fabulous!!!Great job! On your next set of runs, be prepared for more speed 🙂 He is understanding the jumping and lines, which is helping turn on even more excitement!!
T
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterGood morning!
These are all looking super!!!!
First run – opening looked great, I really liked the forced blind on 2! And nice job pushing up the line to get a sweet line to the 9 tunnel AND the blind before 10!
The 11-12-13 section also went well, I liked the BC 12-13 too! You can probably call him more on the 11-12 tunnels, he tends to slow down in tunnels when you get too quiet. Nice job on the ending line too – one small detail is to open up a big connection to him even before he lands from 14 to begin pushing to the backside – that way you can keep moving forward and can eliminate the weight shift of the big step/arm send which delays you a little from getting fully past the exit wing of 15 before he takes off at :38. I like that choice of line for him – fastest line for sure!2nd run (course 2): REALLY nice opening here too, you were pushing more so he was pushing more too! And you used more verbal and less step to get the backside before the weaves at :50 and he nailed it! You then set an almsot perfectly straight line to the weave entry: fabulous! The backside after the weaves looked great too, you are really beginning to trust his understanding it is is making it easier to send and leave. And you had a ‘just right’ Goldilocks moment to the a-frame! YAY!
The 11-12-13 line after the a-frame was almost perfect: you were much earlier on that bit of convergence to get him to the 12 backside so when he landed from 11 at 1:08, he was already facing the backside line to 12 (and he was soooo tight to the line!) You can play with starting the BC 12-13 one step sooner, as soon as you see his head turn in to the gap (and as soon as you say the around cue). You were maybe one step late but he was crazy tight there, which makes being on time very hard – so the other option is a threadle rather than a side change.
I liked your ‘right left left’ cue on the exit of 13 LOL!! He hesitated a little I think mainly because you were not moving, so on the tunnels where there is no place to go, you can move in deeper to the tunnel so he sees you in motion when he exits.
A tiny disconnection moment on the way to 16! At 1:18 as he was taking 15, you looked ahead and pointed to the 16 jump with your right arm. That motion of looking ahead/pointing looked just like the beginning of a blind cross, so he landed and was coming to your new side rather than taking 16. In those moments, you can stay closer to the line 15-16, nice and close to the wings, and the motion and verbal will help support when you disconnect a little to get to the blind cross further up the line. You had more connection on the re-do and it worked really nicely!
course 1: very nice job on the opening! Great job leaving the backside at 3 nice and early, and you also showed the turn at the 6 tunnel much earlier (just remember to keep talking to him in those tunnels, he likes that!)
I thought the rest looked great! Mission accomplished in smoothing out 11-12-13, you got up there and you were connected, his line looked great. And you set yourself up really nicely on the threadle at 15: he totally understood your subtle threadle pull at 2:13 and that also put you in a perfect position for a super tight turn on 16. NICE!! The only suggestion there is to be careful not to say “go” on the threadle, use the threadle verbal 🙂 I think you were caught in the heat of the moment and the body was spot on but the words got a little over-excited LOL!! I do that to, and yell go in some places that are not go spots LOL!!!Great job here!!! Really lovely course work 🙂
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterGood morning!
On the wing wrap video: These are looking really strong! No problem at all on the wing and he is using his body really well for the first part of the video, on both sides. After about 90 seconds, he loses his concentration a bit, so you can dial it back and leave more slowly and/or a bit later and then shorten the session. 90 seconds doesn’t doesn’t feel like a long time to us but it is a lot of thinking/running/bending for the pups, so we do see some physical or mental fatigue (which is what I believe happened here).
Wrapping to his right appears to be easier so he didn’t have the same fatigue but wrapping to his left definitely looks harder – both in the ones where he didn’t finish the wrap and then towards the end of the session where he did finish it, he was wider and not using himself as well through the turns as compared to the first reps to the left. I personally find it hard to see the subtle changes/fatigue in the moment during training (easy to see on video later on LOL!) so I set a timer on wrap sessions and generally don’t go past the fatigue point. For my pups it is about a minute, for Lennan it appears to be 90 seconds 🙂 Keeping your wrap sessions between 60 and 90 seconds will help maintain the quality of the behavior and success rate – you can always come back later on for another session, but breaks in between will help a lot.Serp video:
The first part of the session where you transferred the hand touch to having a jump in front of it looked great! He was driving right in and the touches looked strong. Your mechanics were good too! I am glad you added the toy on the ground – he was so focused on the hand touch that he was not yet started to automatically offer the turn back out to the next line, even with great placement of reward. The toy on the ground will accomplish that.
On the first rep at 1:21, I think he was right to threadle it – you were mainly standing in the center of the bar (it is a very short bar LOL!) and your target hand was extended to the entry wing of a threadle… good boy 🙂 The ideal serp position would have your feet past the exit wing so your hand is visible through the uprights but closer to the exit wing. You position was better on the next rep but he had trouble getting in tight to you, so moving the toy away was the best option (further away but not entirely out of the picture) – you can see by about 2:30 he was figuring out to come between you and the jump to get the toy. So on the next session, you can warm up like that (toy in hand) and then put the toy back on the ground – not as close to you as it was here, have it about a meter away from his landing spot and see if that helps!
Great job! Let me know what you think!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterThat is the TRUTH about YouTube – just keep trying LOL!!!
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
What a good girl!! It is really fun to see it all coming together 🙂 I like to create little courses for the baby dogs because I agree – it keeps things exciting as opposed to doing too much repetition. I think she agrees – note how she got faster on each rep. YES! Great job adding the verbals and being connected throughout 🙂
On that first in in, you can keep your feet pointing to the tunnel just like you did when you brought her into the gap on the tandem turn (which is a version of the threadle) – she read it perfectly even with your feet facing forward.
And on the serps at :11, :31 and :49 – this is a good camera angle to show what we were chatting about above – as she was coming over the green jump before the blue serp jump, you were facing forward to the tunnel. That is perfect lower body, really allowing you to move forward on the line. My suggestion about the upper body is to have you look back at her a little more (it is a moment of direct eye contact) and have your right arm reach back a little sooner), so the center of the chest faces the center of the bar to show the turn cues one stride earlier. Let me know if that makes sense! This is looking great!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
>>First, on the serpentine stuff. I had been turning toward her on the “here” serp jump, and felt it was perhaps too much, so really toned it down. I am using my off-side arm/hand (with lotus ball in the hand) and shaking it as I give the verbal “here”. If you feel I should be rotating into her more, that should be fairly easy. I just need to find a happy medium. ;).
A little more rotation can be done by looking at her eyes more directly, that will drop back the shoulder while also keep your feet straight like they were here 🙂
>>On the tunnel – yes, the far end word is “far.” (Makes sense to me and she doesn’t care.) 😉
I think it is a great choice of words: easy to remember because it makes sense, easy to say while running, and I don’t think it sounds like any other verbal – it checks all of my boxes 🙂
>> In terms of more motion – are you saying you want me to run to the threadle end so I’m picking her up soon and can leave as soon as she shows commitment to the “far” end? I’ll have to try what I think you’re suggesting and you can let me know if I’m in the ball park at all.
Yes – picking her up more at the exit and showing more motion as you execute the threadle cue. I think she is ready! Motion usually dilutes behavior, so now is a good time to show her that the cues/behavior are the same even as you get faster and faster 🙂
T
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
>>Quick question, I am signed up for an outdoor AKC trail at the beginning of Oct. Do you think there is value in entering Zing in a couple of runs. It would be FEO since her contacts nor weave are even close to finished. So I would work startlines and perhaps a couple of jumps or tunnels.. Curious how you look at stuff like that.
She will be about 18 months old-ish? I think FEO is a GREAT idea. I haven’t seen her in a trial environment, but she is pretty level-headed, right? No worries or anxiety? If she seems relaxed and happy, FEO for startlines and jumps & tunnels is great! It is a terrific way to get her into the trial environment and make it feel as good as training 🙂
T
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
>> the list is getting closer. In the meantime I decided to run today. ‘Cause you know, you have to do benchmarks to see if things are getting better LOL.
Perfect! And it helps the list 🙂
>>I did the start several different ways. She is such a baby I wanted her to see it all.
Yes – totally agree with this approach. She needs exposure to ALL the tools not just certain ones.
>>The other thing that I am realizing is that I need to adjust my “goals”. Hard for me to run Hoot with the goal of clean and then run Zing with the goal of teaching and feedback.
Yes, you raise an important point with this and something to remember for the next 2 years 🙂 Plus, with Zing being so young, you will likely have to add ‘over-connect’ to help her to your goals as you run courses, while with Hoot you will be able to point, yell something, and run away in those same moments 🙂
>>I need to do a better job and take what ever she gives me as info. In a class like this I tend to want to do “all the things” and do them well.>>
That is the fine balance between trying different techniques, breaking it down, and putting bigger pieces together.
On the video, lots of really fun stuff happening!!!! Some ideas/thoughts for you. I think breaking it down with the emphasis on showing her early timing and great connection will help smooth out some of the spots that had wrinkles 🙂
First rep:
You can work to leave the ‘in in’ at 2 sooner so you can get the BC further up the line sooner – my guess is that you leave a step or two sooner, and also add some exit verbals like a wrap verbal and her name so she comes directly to 3 which will allow you to get the BC sooner (and help to keep the bar up at 5 and get the FC earlier at 5 to the tunnel).
On the tunnel – try to show her the FC and call her before she enters (6 feet before or no less than 3 feet before). And, one of my mantras: “don’t give a ‘forward’ cue like and obstacle name or go verbal until you can see the dog’s head turned to the line you want.” You said tunnel while she was looking at the exit of 7, so that is where she went (nice and fast too!). It looks like you got your eyes to her eyes on the exit of 6, but didn’t maintain it long enough for her to make the turn, so she never picked up the correct side.2nd rep – The backside push to BC at 2 is a good option here – try to do it from further across the bar at 2, as close to the exit wing as possible, so you can be much further ahead and past the takeoff side before she takes off – at :16 you were on landing side as she took off when ideally you would be way ahead there past takeoff side. The BC there and RC 3-4-5 works and is a good technique to play with but it is a lot of handling that puts you behind for the cross to the 6 tunnel in this situation.
You got more of a turn with the spin to a threadle to a RC on the 2 tunnels – it was a whole lotta handling but didn’t put you ahead, and made the backside harder because she was turning to her right on the tunnel exit and you were in catch up mode. I think you original plan of FC there was the best option.Even if you end up behind on a backside line, you can use more extreme connection (and convergence if needed) to push her out – you turned a little forward so she came to the front.
3rd rep – you left 2 a lot sooner and pushed 3-4 and she did a great job – at :37 you are miles ahead (good reward there!!) I really like that plan: simple easy handling (lots of skills embedded in there to make it look easy!) and it had the tremendous benefit of putting you very far ahead. It was cool to see how well she understood commitment to 2 so you could leave so nicely!
On the tunnel exit, work the parallel path to the backside (running more towards the center of the backside bar or towards the exit wing, but with big connection) so you don’t have to go to the entry wing – that makes the next line easier! It was hard to see what your convergence line was at :46 but she seemed to think it was good! And that means it was good, because she is too young to save you if it was crappy 🙂
The 10 tunnel is a spot to concentrate on timely cues, even if you are behind – at :48 the physical and verbal were late (she saw acceleration as she entered it and the verbal started just as she entered, so she was wide on the exit.
On the ending line – I don’t think she was scoping for an off course set of poles LOL!! I think she was being super literal – at :56 when she didn’t read the RC, it looks like you turned your shoulders forward to the weave pole line rather than face the RC diagonal to the center of the bar. So her head was facing straight… and you said go before she responded to the RC cue, so she was going LOL! It was one of those “don’t give a forward cue until the head is turned to the line you want” moments – boy, I have learned that the hard way LOL!!Overall, she is showing some really great skills which is why I can bug you about timing or the little details of watching where she is looking (sounds so easy… NOT!) but that will really solidify putting the skills into the course!
Great job! Let me know what you think!
Tracy -
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