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Good morning!
OMG the background noise was AMAZING! LOL!!!!!! Star Wars, Toller edition LOL!
The boys did well here – dual training is hard ineed but it looks like you had a nice high rate of reinforcement so they were able to do it! I have also found that the older dogs have a harder time than the puppies on this game! Keep playing with this, to expand it to one dog watching as you shape something or tug with the other – I think you can build it up to having them relax and watch the other run agility courses!Good update on the Tractor Supply adventure! He sounds like is was really interested in all of the sights and sounds, in a good way. Greeting happily is terrific! Was he able to eat treats and respond to things to earn the treats? I am thinking yes, he probably was, based on what you mentioned. If he can eat treats and relax, then the tugging will follow: pouncing on the toy is a great start! And Tractor Supply is pretty darned distracting 🙂 so it is a great place to go to play little games and socialize.
Nice work!!
TracyGood morning!
Lots of good stuff here!
First up, reverse retrieve: he is doing really well with both getting the toy AND bringing it back! Yay!!! A couple of ideas for the next steps:
take a moment after you drop the toy to get him more focused on it – drop the toy, restrain him, give a little “ready, ready…” and when he looks at the toy, cue the get it and run away. That will get even more speed and build in some good focus forward on these transitions.
You can also add in calling his name as you run away, simulating what you’d be doing on an agility course – this will add even more speed on the retrieve element while challenging the toy bringing too!
When he gets to you, you can mix in tugging with the original toy – I think on all of these, you traded for a different toy (which is fine) but you can also tug on the toy he brings. Mix it all up, he is being really terrific so we can build on it.Foot targeting:
I think a couple of things will get more drive to the target – yes, you can do more of the shaping on the Baby Level, but on the sends here are some things that can help clarify for him:
Make a clean reset and transition before each send – line him up on your side, hold the collar or gently push back on his check, use a little ‘ready steady’ chatter, wait for him to look forward towards the target – then send using the dog-side arm & leg. On the first several sends, you had the opposite arm and leg sending which caused him to look at you and not send as well.So clean transitions will really help – you added that at approx 2:41 and the behavior got sharper immediately. Nice!!!I also recommend rewarding with a tossed reward out on the target for now – it looks like the value is mainly on you (rewards back at you) so he doesn’t really want to leave 🙂 So on the sends – click then toss the reward at or past the target. It will be easy enough to shift the value back to you if he drives to the target but doesn’t want to come back LOL! A larger target can also make it easier, as it is easier to get paws on it to clarify what behavior you are clicking (some of the clicks were early so he didn’t actually touch it).
Hiking around on weird stuff is the BEST possible goat trick 🙂 Great for conditioning too! Love it! Have you noticed any sensitivity to noise or motion? He looks perfectly happy here on this clip!
And yay for a good plan with Pat Miller! Sounds like she is hitting on ALL the things to help him out, and that is great 🙂 Keep me posted!!
Tracy
Hey there!
Great session!!! Super gold star to Spy for eating the cookies… usually the BCs are not interested in the cookies when the chase game is on LOL! You did a great job working the mechanics of the reward across the body – I know it is weird but it is SO useful (I totally stole it from the big name Europeans, so I figured it is good enough for us to use too haha). And yes, it does open up great connection – note how he is straight as an arrow driving to you! No flanking or slowing down or anything, just freight train straight up the line: exactly what we want! 2 of the reps were pretty late, so you can chalk those into the “momma is going to sometimes be late, please help the momma out and make the side change anyway” column (which is a game that I *do* play with the dogs :)). The others were fine and he read it really well! Also, as he gets more experienced, he will be able to respond on the first part of the head turn and not wait to see the whole picture, which will make timing much easier for you.
Excellent job here! His countermotion looked good so you can definitely add in the foot targeting games!Tracy
Hi! The Bravery Course looks a little like my living room hahaha!! It had some really fun ideas for super weirdo things for the dogs to interact with along with more normal looking things. Such great stuff for puppies! He seemed completely fine with everything except maybe having to get his leash back on LOL! He probably needs some recalls off the Manners Minder, so he learns to eat his MM treats then comes back to work then back to MM and so on – that way he doesn’t avoid being reached for when the MM is around 🙂
Nice work here! The next step would be to let him offer more on these mini obstacle courses so he can leave you more and not follow the cookie as much.
TracyGood question!!!!
I generally only reward at the target on those reps, but that is with a pup who automatically re-engages with me (lucky me!!). My previous pup did not have natural engagement like that as a pup, so I would give a small reward for coming back and engaging. Let Lanna guide you, I think she is more like Hot Sauce in that she is likely to naturally engage, so a reward at the target is all you’ll need. But it is also fine to mix it all up, keep her on her toes 🙂
TracyGood morning! She is doing well with the concepts here and the value for the target looks really strong. Yay! A couple of ideas for you:
On the sending forward (in the early part of the video) and in the step backs (later in the video), add in a clearer transition into the send so she knows when to leave you and also so you don’t have to take more than one step. You can engage her, talk to her, give her a bit of a ready steady…. then the one step (forward or backwards :)) That will also get more speed to the target.
One thing I see here (which is a common thing as we teach these skills) – she is faster coming back to you then sending away from you (pretty normal at this stage and good to identify!). To balance the speed and get as much speed leaving as driving back, balance out the placement of rewards. All of the rewards here were back at you (which helps explain the speed difference) so be sure to toss at least 50% of the rewards out to the target while you are sending and/or moving away. You might end up putting more than 50% of the rewards out there when she hits it, and that is fine! Let her speed dictate any shifts in placement of reward: if she shifts to leave you on the sends at warp speed but is slow or sticky to come back… shift the value back to rewards from your hand. That value will shift back and forth throughout the training process, so look for any speed differences.
>>I see that I am leaning over, sigh
I think you were fine, I didn’t notice the leaning over as a bad thing here. It all looked pretty natural to me. Sends tend to lean us a bit – either leaning into a forward send or leaning away from the step back – as long as it was connected and natural, it is fine 🙂 She seemed to think it was connected and natural too!
>>The run off in the middle was to a toy lying on the ground. It struck me as a frustration/confusion behavior (I’d love your opinion).
I think it was a combo of things – the toy tossed behind you definitely was a hard distraction (note how she looks at it when you toss it there). She was a good girl to head to the target (I *think* she touched it with at least one foot? Hard to tell?) and then you had turned and moved towards the toy… so she had a “nailed it!” moment LOL! She likely thought the toy was the reward – but then you reacted and she might have had an uh-oh! moment. So it began as what she might’ve thought was a legit reward then a little bit of confusion. This is where you can use the toy as a reward (starting her closer to the target so she has a better hit) and also you can toss treats out at the target when she hits it, to balance the value of leaving you to hit the target, especially when the toy is visible.
Overall, really good session! She is still targeting nicely as you show countermotion and rotation, which is going to be super helpful when we add in cones & wings and tunnels and such. Super fun!
Nice work!
TracyYes, you can use anything – a perch or shoe or any random object 🙂 We transfer it to wings/cones/uprights eventually, when the understanding to come around is fluent.
T
Hi there!
I would personally not use the RDW mat for this – the behavior that I use on the RDW mat has to do with the rear feet, and that could get messy/diluted on this behavior. For the handling games, I am happy with a “touch it anyway you need to” criteria and I don’t care if the pup pounces on it, whacks it with a front foot only, stands on it, etc – all things that are not likely to be desirable on a RDW mat 🙂 The RDW mat proofing is more likely to involve more specific criteria, so I would keep the concepts separate for now. When HS was a wee puppy learning this (before the RDW mat work), I used a baseball cap as her “obstacle” for these games 🙂 to keep the RDW looking really different.Food for thought!
TracyHi again!
On the perch work – He did a good job of getting his front feet right on it. I think the bit of gentle pressure of one foot moving towards his back foot will help him isolate back feet (not your whole body, just stay in front of him and reach out with your leg/foot). By turning his head, he is likely only thinking about his head 🙂 plus if you use too much movement, it is harder to fade the movement out.You can also add in a clicker: getting on the perch with front feet gets a bit of quiet “good boy” praise but a click/treat for the back foot movement might help him realize that it is back feet we are hoping for.
>> I left the play part in because when he thought there was food on the ground he didn’t want the toy. Eventually he went for it, but had to work at it. Any thoughts on that?
He was probably in the center of a pool of scent, plus near the perch, plus near the cookie couch… so the toy wasn’t as salient. Moving it around more and getting him moving really helped, so working it til he engaged was really good! Yay! If he struggles in that situation, you can throw the toy or move to the other side of the room – that will get the tug toy more salient and he will likely engage very quickly.
Nice work on these!
TracyBravery Day LOL! I bet the dogs thought is was “Humans Are Weird But We Will Happily Eat Their Cookies Day” haha!
On the couch cushion – if Wager tries to jump in, be sure to reward Spot before telling Wager to get back on his place 🙂 Spot seemed perfectly happy to get on the cushion, movement and all. You can add tugging on the wobbly cushion – that adds an element of weight shift that makes it a little harder. You can also do position changes: sit, stand, down as he keeps the cushion stable under him.
I think he is ready for sme noise! A baking pan or bubble wrap are great for indoor use. Do you have a wooden wobble board? If he is comfy on one of those, you can put it on hard surfaces to create noise.T
Hi there!
It is fine to post several videos – the previous issue was due to a limit of # of videos that we didn’t know about, but we fixed that so you can post 20 videos per post or something like that 🙂Dual training:
it is great that you already started this, it is so helpful! Both boys seemed to do well on this (hi Wager!). You had Spot them hold a down which is fine, but you can also have it be “just stay on the station (couch)” so you don’t have to maintain criteria of the down when you are further from the station (outdoors, for example). Either way is fine, and they did really well! Yes, continue on your plan to fade out the hand signal, I don’t think he needs it at this point. And you can add in more active games/tricks – when you first add more excitement, be sure to raise the rate of reinforcement for the couch dog 🙂T
Thank you for the update!!!! It sounds like a great weekend, where 80% of your runs were great! That is at least double the ‘norm’ for agility. Yay!!!
Next up is going to be a stress-free starts class – stay tuned!!!
Tracy
Good morning! Nice work on these!
Foot targeting – good value going here! You might have added a bit too much distance too quickly, but the next set of games will help that (coming today!). You can toss cookies both ways, so she comes back towards you on some of the rewards to get the cookie, and you can toos the cookie apst the target so she hits the target on the way back to you. For next games, you might need to get the target to be stationary – either tape it down or put it on a surface where it won’t slip as she whacks it LOL! Also, you had really good play breaks, she is doing really well continuing to play even with the target out there AND with distractions of the videographer talking and the barking dog. Yay! She will be ready to add the new games that will be posted later today.Dual training – I think terriers believe they are exempt from having to wait their turns hahahah! I feel your pain. You can increase the rate of reinforcement for the terrier during the waiting process, either with more tossed cookies or a chew bone. You can also be less exciting while she has to wait, doing stationary behaviors instead of moving ones. Lanna, on the other hand, was a really good girlie!!! Stayed focused even with the little big sister joining the fun AND waited her turned on the cot. It is a good game to add, as it is also a stealth self-control game combined with a coping game – Lanna will learn to chill out while watching others work, without needing direct engagement from you. Yay! Good start to your dual training here!
Nice work! More coming later today 🙂
Tracy
Super YAY!!!! I love it!!! It is especially great that you were able to get him to repeat it – not a fluke 🙂 And I like that he brings it to you then hops up on you on cue – that will help keep you from being pummeled with flying BC. Ha! Great work!!!!!!! I know it can be hard to get video with little sessions squeezed in throughout the week, but it is really terrific to see the results coming together 🙂
Tracy
Yay! Good boy ignoring about 10 million distractions everywhere! Wowza! 2 ways to advance this game:
First, take it on the road so you can use real life distractions like people he knows and other dogs (maybe practice with Christine and Josie :))
Second, start to leave earlier so we introduce the concept of countermotion (you sending him away while you are immediately moving in the opposite direction). I suggest using 2 toys for this so he doesn’t choke on a cookie:
Have a toy in your pocket. Hold him and throw a different toy- when he is locked onto it, then send him, telling him to get it.
Just before he gets to it. Start running the other way and calling him. Ideally, he finishes his job of getting then chases you with it while you run.
If that goes well, you can start leaving sooner and sooner (just be sure to tell him to get it so he has permission to get it and not chase you :))
Let me know how it goes!!!
I will be posting more about the clicker stays sook, glad they are helping!!
Tracy
