Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Hi! This went really well!
1 through 6 looked lovely on both runs!
Yes, as you mentioned he needed more ‘pull’ into the threadle wrap on 7 on the first run, more like what you did at 2:15! That was really nice!
>but was a little hasty to cue 8. 11-12 (cued tunnel too soon?) dropped bar.>
Yes, be patient in those spots, as that will really help with the more elaborate movements he has to do (like threadle wraps) while also keeping the bar up.
8-13 looked super good too – especially the amazing flip from the weaves to the jump!! Wowza!
Can you send to the 16 backside form further across the bar, so you can be a little more ahead and show the line to 17 before he takes off?
>21-22. Toes were pointing to front side of jump. >
Yes, he did think it as a forward cue on the first run to the from side of the bar.
That same concept from 16 can apply to the backside after the a-frame too: use a big connection and be further across the bar. That will make the blind feel more timely because you are not as close to the entry wing (which doesn’t give as much room or time to do the blind.
The other option is to set up a rear cross on 23. This is especially useful if you do end up close to the entry wing of the backside (22). The rear cross will work really nicely there too.
Great job here!
Tracy
This is what the whippet wears when he is going to the ring – he pulls like a freight train on a normal collar in that scenario but zero pulling with this. I clip the leash to the top, not the chest for him so there is less shoulder restriction.
RUFFWEAR Front Range Reflective Front-Clip Dog Harness, Blue Pool, Large/X-Large: 32 to 42-in chest – Chewy.com https://share.google/P7A1fkPX635KBAiT5
Good morning!
>I recently tried a frisbee & ball outside, she’s runs after it, but that’s it. Loses interest in it. I had her on the 30ft & lost her to the birds when I wasn’t quick enough to meet her at the toy. >
I think the obsession needs to be built away from the number 1 challenge – then when it is built up, we can bring it in and have a powerful tool! So play with it in your training room, in a carpeted hallway if you have one, other locations, etc. That can get her really loving them and after that, we can bring her into the bird zone 🙂
>I can get her to play with literally any toy in the house. >
Make tennis balls or frisbees into the center of excitement in training everywhere except the bird zone for now. I suggest these because they are 2 of the toys that dogs obsess on and that can be helpful!
I also see a lot of dogs obsess on real fur/carcass toys (I have a raccoon on a bungee and a squirrel with a crunchy water bottle in it). That helps overcome all sorts of prey issues for those dogs but those are dogs that like to hunt critters – I am not sure how a Lab would feel about it but it is worth try!
Or a big cat toy with feathers (but not cat nip) that is stuffed into a hollee roller so she has her own ‘bird’ to chase.
I don’t think this one has cat nip in it:
https://www.chewy.com/kong-naturals-crinkle-ball-feathers/dp/47848?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=20032366012&utm_content=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20024238363&gbraid=0AAAAADmQ2V1djdR3zF7A4g7V0MyqF7cUq&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnIDUBhDrARIsAJDGwSu1rCn9ZJiyxCcxNQpFhHQCoV7lyGCTggJ0tCeGhNLlGxVDAJFEqIwaAkMUEALw_wcB>When it comes outside, right now only food toys are sustainable.>
This is good and that is what to use in the bird zone. The other stuff can be built away from it.
> I’m trying to watch her body language, the sniffing – is she tracking the birds or food cumbs (there’s a lot in the yard lol) >
Assume her brain is tracking both, on high alert for both. They are different systems (visual versus olfaction) so that are both bombarding her brain with info.
>I’m assuming this is a good thing right ?! lol! Maybe it will help her with keeping close proximity?! >
This is definitely a good thing. And it is part of why her baskets and the dopamine box game are exciting: enhancement learning is a powerful tool.
>We have a Brain Camp shirt that says “I’m not naughty, it is my neurons!”
How do I get this shirt??!! >I think it is time we do another production run of them! I am wearing one right now LOL
For the harness:
It is good that she is already on a harness! The harness she is on is good but she can still pull pretty hard. The front clip harness can help – I don’t recommend doing agility in them, but they can help preserve your arms and shoulders and her neck & shoulders if she has a sudden pull.Classic Fit No Pull Dog Harness
Personalised Dog Harness – Sky Blue
And the no-pull harnesses can help in this situation:
>I thought she would come back like the first rep! Nope off to the races! >
Being able to take off and race there is probably a huge hit of adrenaline, dopamine, endorphins… so even with all of the reinforcement going into the other games she is still taking off. Having her on a no pull harness will make you feel more comfortable holding the long line or keeping her on a 10 foot leash – then she simply cannot have that big sprint to the birds because you can stop it immediately. I think that will make a world of difference, because it stops the physiological cascade of motivation neurotransmitters that happens when she takes off to chase birds. And that cascade creates almost an addiction to the chasing so it increases rather than decreases (very similar to me and coffee haha)
But stopping the big run will stop and prevent that cascade of what is likely happening inside her and help you steer things into the feelings we want her to have! Think of it as going cold-turkey on bird chasing: simply can’t happen anymore.
Another way to frame it is replace the birds with cars: many herding dogs are car chasers! One of my herding dogs wanted to chase cars when he was about a year old and that is unpredictable and dangerous and scary, as I am sure you can relate to. And no toy or cookie was more powerful or exciting than the stimulus of the car – and in my yard, his brain was constantly on high alert that car might appear (I lived along a road). Sound familiar to the bird chasing?
So I stopped the car chasing entirely by always having him on a leash that I held the end of if my yard, and having him on a harness so he couldn’t yank me off my feet (he was a 40 pound dog). Cold turkey on car chasing!
In the yard, I trained little games with whatever he found interesting (mainly food at that point).
Separately, in various locations where car movement was not an issue, I bulked up the value of tug toys and other games. That way he and I still had fun together, he still learned, and I was able to expand my toolbox of games and rewards.
Then the two merged: I was able to bring him to my field along the road, get him working and playing with me, and NOT chasing cars.
I didn’t take that long once I decided to stop the car chasing cold turkey. Was it a pain I the butt to have to have him on leash in my own field the whole time? Yes, yes it was haha! But also I knew he could easily get hit by a car. And it turn out the cold-turkey approach stopped the physiological cascade that was happening when he chased a car (this was back in 2014, so I didn’t know anything about it) and I was able to replace the car chasing with the training and normal life that I wanted him to have.
So the get it game is going well and the LB is powerful… but being able to sometimes chase birds will over-power the games with food which is why I think the approach to getting a harness that won’t yank you both and holding her so she can’t take off on those big runs will start to make a massive difference.
Let me know what you think!
Tracy
Good morning! This went really well! You both had to move faster 🙂 but once again, no problem and mission accomplished. Love it! (Side note, when the wings get nice and close, it becomes a conditioning exercise that the sports vets recommend so you can ask Ripley to do it too for kicks and giggles :))
Since this went well, you can revisit it with you moving up the line and not starting from a stay or facing him. It becomes a serpy/threadle line from the handling perspective: you can do it all dog-on-left for example, with your feet pointing straight to the end of the line and your upper body pulling/pushing as you move up the line. Start it with just 3 wings and in a fast walk to get the feel then you can easily build it up to a run 🙂 That will eventually build up to a great jumping grid challenge.
>We did a few reps of the serp stuff but I forgot to move the camera so it just missed us.>
Bummer! Did it go well?
Nice work here!
Tracy
Hello!
>I decided we’d just do a few jumps at the end of the course, tempting though it was to try.>
That was smart! You started her in the last section of the course and did the ending, then went to the reward? How did it go?
>> the problem being the handler (me) is usually so far behind the tunnel exit trying to drive the line (with Maisy) and failing – so it is a good one to practise.>
I agree that we see this in the middle of the run a lot, with the handlers having to almost miraculously appear at the other side of the ring ahead of the dog 🤣 And I am also behind a lot, so I practice this challenge from behind because I won’t be getting faster any time soon LOL!
On the video – the handling got her to the correct line on the first run – at :07 she was exactly in the right spot and heading to the tunnel! Your motion and verbals were really good! But then I think she just was not sure that she was supposed to stay out on the line with you that far away. It is VERY far for a tiny dog – this challenge is much easier with big dogs, in terms of convincing them to stay on the line.
>pre-placing a target was necessary, then I threw it out to the jump, then she was good to go.>
That worked really well because on the rest of the runs here, she was very confident! The tunnel-under-the-dog-walk thing is mainly a concept and the dogs have to confidently understand how to do it independently, so you did a great job of showing her that here.
And when she was confident in her understanding, the independence allowed you to easily get to the elaborate handling on the other side of the sequence. Super! Then when you sent her back to the tunnel going the other direction (towards the camera) she was able to get that line AND get the jump, even with you behind her. Yay!
You can add a little challenge at home by covering the wings used to simulate the dog walk – blankets or towels and make it opaque, which simulates how her view of you will be blocked when an actual contact is there!
Great job 🙂
Tracy
Good morning!
Even if the videos don’t get edited/posted, I am glad you are still videoing because you are describing hugely helpful info!!!
> What I discovered was that even though I walked a “conservative” lead out, I still released him before I got to my walked start position so we started out “off plan” almost every single time. >
Ah! That is a BIG catch from the videos!
>But if the sequence required some handling that needed to be pretty precise or if it was something I wasn’t totally fluent with it frequently all fell apart. >
That makes total sense, if you were in catch up mode from the beginning of the run. The harder parts were never actually ‘rehearsed’ based on the difference in your release position.
>The other thing I have figured out is that there’s a bunch of stuff that happens at the start that causes me to split my focus>
All of this is completely true: ‘micro’ distractions that eat up brain bandwidth.
> don’t hit them with it>
Ha! I mean, I am sure they appreciate that 🤣
>I lose some of the connection with Sly and don’t always get it back before starting my lead out, he gets concerned, I release early. >
This comes from training being very different than trialing: in training, people don’t really ever use the leash to come to the start line – either they don’t use it at all, or they use it differently. So the entire leash off process eats up our bandwidth because it is also un-rehearsed. I’ve started getting people to use the leash in training like they do in trials and it makes a big difference. The entire leash off part of things is a bigger piece than we realize.
> normally I almost never have his leash on when training so we’re doing sessions where we walk to first obstacle on leash, take leash off, look around, throw leash, look around like I’m looking at timer, figuring out how to make sure we are both connected before leading out. >
Perfect! It is an important part of the run that you have to do every single time at a trial, so now it will be rehearsed to the point of it being second nature. Yay!
>it’s not fun training like Threadle wraps at a distance >
I think the leash games are kinda fun LOL and also the leash off element is directly related to the fancy handling, because it allows us to match our training position to our trial position on course!
Looking at the video: This went well! You might have felt him being a little ‘sticky’ and watching you on the exit of the tunnel on the first send:
He might be asking question on the send to the wrap because your dog side arm is too far back and locked back (stationary, almost threadle-like) which is rotating your shoulders towards him more than needed on the line. You were probably doing it to be connected but it was pulling his focus up to you.
Placing the reward by the jump definitely helped (except when he cheated haha!) but the more natural arm position and movement (like at :55, 1:20, 2:20, 3:23 and 1:00 going the other way) was what really committed him without a question.
When the arm is locked back and not really moving (like at the beginning and at 1:29, 1:35, 1:50 for example).
You can get the sends without the little questions with more natural arm movement (swinging arms as you run) and your dog side arm can support the line by staying low and traveling with his nose rather than pointing ahead (which will cause a disconnection).
It was fun to see the leash get involved too! You can also mark a spot where you want to lead out to – next to the wing, or two steps past it, for example, to help maintain consistency on the lead out spot and release.
Great job here!
Tracy
Hi!
>She’s just not quite sure about holding the 2 on 2 off. How to I help her with that?>
I would take it away from the teeter and use a plank on the ground, or an even a low set of stairs. Have her step into position and then you put a cookie on the target. Then another. And if she tays there – another cookie 🙂 And then release her before she breaks. When she realizes that she will get a lot of treats for staying there, you can start moving your position so she learns to hit and hold position even if you are not right next to her.
She found the tunnel entry really well on that first video! Yay!
On the 2nd video for the left & right exits of the tunnel: you can lead out a little less and that will actually allow you to show the turn sooner. By leading out pretty far, the last thing she saw before entering the tunnel was you accelerating forward, which cued more of a straight line. So if you lead out less, you can send her pasty ou then as she is approaching the tunnel you can turn your shoulders to the new line without acceleration – that plus saying a quieter left or right will show more turn info before she enters the tunnel.
>I was so proud of her for fixing her line the first time to find the back side!! The others were not so successful. Was I just too behind?>
Yes, the first sequence from 1:04 to 1:13 went really well mainly because you were really connected 🙂
When you ran it again on the other side: at 1:30 you were looking forward and not showing connection back to her on the tunnel exit and you were rotating before she passed you so she turned before the jump.
On the last rep you drove to the wrap jump more so the motion committed her – but then you were not able to get ahead for the backside after it.
So add more connection to her on the tunnel exit for the send, and do a big, connected one-step send to the jump. That should commit her to the jump so you can get up the line and be ahead of her to cue the backside. If the jump send here has too much distance, you can move it on closer to make the send easier for now.Great job!
Tracy
Hi!
I love that you are really interested in what is happening in her brain – that is how we survive canine adolescence LOL!!
>I’ve started a post million times in my head, but wasn’t sure if it was Ok since at the moment all I have is bird activity to report >
Totally ok! The agility skills are easy when we have engagement!
> The weeks have gone by, I feel like I’m behind in the games & got overwhelmed finding a game that will work indoors. >
You can tweak any game into a smaller version of it to play indoors, or see if you can grab a ring rental in a bird-free location 🙂
>But I need you in my circle, on the hard days you always find a way to make them not so “hard”! You motivate me & make me feel like the impossible will be possible! >
Awww yay! I am ALWAYS in your circle!!!!
>Here’s what we have been up to. I have a little basket at the bottom of the ramp off the deck (I had a target but it was getting lost in the grass) so Sunnie has a focus as she runs down. She sticks her head in (the sides are low she can see around) I toss some cookies in, when she gives me eye contact or looks up I give her another cookie and off we go whether it’s to go potty or take a stroll into the yard & work on the birds or down to the super bowl line up. >
Fun! This sounds like it is going well!
>I’ve been using all different length leashes, trying to figure out what works best to keep her safe and my hands in one piece! >
Have you considered using a harness? I use a Ruffwear on one of my dogs which is a relatively normal harness but has completely stopped the pulling on leash. Or, one of those harnesses that clip in the front, which really dampens down pulling? Harnesses can help because it is easier to hold the leash for you, and they are not aversive for her.
>The video shows you how she checks in, but goes to the end of the leash, gets jerked because I’m holding on and then comes back for a cookie. >
That is what made me think that maybe a harness would be easier. She can wear it any time the leash goes on.
>This is what I was asking you about if this is what she has learned that it’s ok to get jerked & then turn back for a cookie >
Possibly, but I don’t think it is a learned behavior as much as it is an impulse (not a decision). But it will be physically easier for you both if she doesn’t get jerked (or jerk your arm/hand).
> The video also shows you how forceful she is when she sees birds & wants to chase. >
For real! Powerful little girlie!
>What I am trying to do here is, let her look, when she orients back to me I say Get It & throw a Lotus Ball & we have a party together. The episodes where she got away from me to chase I was able to get her back by saying Get It & throwing the LB in her view. She loves the Get It game. >
This was good and even though she had moments not having the leash held, she was still int the game! Yay!
Remind me: does she like tennis balls or frisbees? I am wondering if we can create a ball or frisbee obsession to replace the bird obsession 🙂
>I did buy some snow fencing so at least I can have an enclosure for some agility training, if she can handle it. That’s this weekend’s project! >
Perfect! The physical and mental outlet for that will help with the birds too.
> I want her to think of the yard as our playground (like it used to be!) not the freaking bird sanctuary which I feel like she does now, so much scanning going on after check-ins.>
You can probably see the battles in her brain: do things for the rewards (operant decisions) versus the impulse/instinct to look for birds.
>I still have to buy a fan on a pedestal for your indoor idea! >
That will be fun to try!
>Back to classical & operant. Do you think the behavior I’m trying to create – stare at bird >orient to me > I say Get It> LB goes flying – is classical or operant & will it sustain? >
Everything has a classical element to it (whether we like it or not LOL!!) so there is a classical happy conditioned response building for the Get It Game with the lotus ball. It is centered on an operant moment (looking at you is a choice, built through positive reinforcement) and the running/chasing the LB for amazing rewards is positive reinforcement (operant) plus will get a positive conditioned response to being the yard in general.
That is why I am thinking of trying to create a tennis ball or frisbee obsession to replace the bird obsession. Try some tennis balls in the house and a frisbee and see what she says!
>but I have done it & Sunnie got lots & lots of snacks!! >
Yes! She did well!
>That only works if she runs towards the back of the yard where there is fencing & I am lateral to her! If I’m behind, I’m left in the dust! In the video I’m using a 10 ft leash. Tonight I had her on a 30 ft leash, we were playing a hunting game >
You can stick to the scenarios that work well, and build it up from there. Success is the key, even if it is in certain scenarios and you don’t worry about the other scenarios yet.
> I drop kongs or LB when she isn’t looking and then run over to it and say wow what is this, she comes running & we “look” for it together >
Love it! That likely falls into the location enhancement version of learning – where we literally enhance where we can the dog to look & go to by us moving to it and looking at it.
> I do think she tries hard! >
She totally does! We have a Brain Camp shirt that says “I’m not naughty, it is my neurons!” And that totally applies to her! We are training her brain to ignore birds 🙂 So definitely keep working these short blasts of LB get it games. And let me know what she thinks of tennis balls and frisbees – we can build that up pretty easily into an obsession that might be strong enough to override birds!
Tracy
Hi!
The sends and serps are going well! Her best reps were when you really opened up your serp arm, like at 1:01 – that brought her in to the jump really well! I agree that it went better when you moved faster (and after you reminded yourself to do the serp :)) So stay nice and close to the jump, moving towards the MM and swing your serp arm back to cue the jump.
>Sometimes I crack myself up so excuse the commentary.>
That was pretty funny LOL!!!
The zig zags also went well! She was moving fast but also really shifting back and forth brilliantly.
>did I lead out far enough?>
Since she went so fast, you can totally lead out further 🙂 And you can move the wings a shade closer – that will add challenge because you will have to cue faster, and she will have to shift her leads quicker.
Great job here!
Tracy
Hi!
The zig zags went well too, on both sides and with 3 wings! Great job getting it in before the rain (which seems endless :))Since this went so well, you can totally add another wing. And if that goes well too – move them a little closer together (but a foot or so) because that will get both of you going faster 🙂 You will have to cue it quicker and he will have to shift back and forth quicker too.
Great job here!
Tracy
Hi!
He was a good boy here!
On the serp – to consistently get the serp, he needed you to open your arm back to him like the MaxPup 1 game ‘strike a pose’ 🙂 That way when he is heading to the jump, you can keep moving forward (as if there is another jump out there and not the MM :)) You were doing a bit of a post turn, which to the line to the jump but will make it harder if there is another jump on a serp line out ahead.Your instructor said it at 1:48 (thanks instructor!) and then he nailed it 🙂 And he was able to get it even when you were moving faster and getting ahead. Big click/treat for your instructor, her advice was perfect 🙂
Nice work 🙂
Tracy
Hi! These games went really well!
Sends-n-serps:
>This was brutal – HAHA! I’m going to go back and rewatch the livestream section on this game to maybe help me solidify what I’m missing here.>
This might have felt a little weird here – you mirrored the line for the serp 🙂 You sent her to the inside of the wing wrap and did a FC to push her back to the jump so it ended up being more of a FC drill for the first half of the session. That is still useful, because you had to get her to to do the FC the nfnd the bar of the jump.
On the 2nd half, you started with a true serp – you sent her to the outside of the wing then moved along the parallel line to the jump. You can get her to come in on the serp jump by having your dog-side arm extended back and away from you, which will rotate your shoulders back to her to face the bar. It is a moving version of ‘strike a pose’ from Maxpup 1 :)If she still has trouble coming in, you can rotate the jump to towards her a bit (maybe 45 degrees) so it is easier for her to see the bar and get the line to the jump.
The zig zags went great! You were definitely quicker on the 2nd rep and she responded perfectly there on the next reps too! And I am happy with her stay too – it is great to be able to get such a long lead out! Sine this went so well, you can make it harder by moving the wings closer together :). That will make things go even faster!!
Find the jump:
> TYPICALLY Macklynn will choose to go around a jump in front of her – either to take the backside or go around it entirely (as if it were a wing), so I was surprised that she did choose to take it >
I think she was finding the jump here because she was able to see connection, which is what shows the line. The less you use your arm to point ahead of her, the more she sees the connection. So as she exits the tunnel when your arm was low and you were looking at her, she was able to find the jump really well even when you were running and ahead at the end. Super! You can keep adding lateral distance away from the line so she finds the jump from further and further away from you 🙂
Great job!
Tracy
Hi!
These went well! A couple of small detail ideas of each:
>PO1-did a reverse spin from 3 to 4 hoping it would tighten up the turn, but it was too tight as he came in behind me. >
Yes – he turned really tight there! The post turn would be the better choice there for sure. Good job continuing – the rest looked really good! My only suggestion is to try turning him to his right at jump 8, which sets up a faster line 8-9-10 wth fewer turns. You can do that with a rear cross, of a blind between 7 and 8.
Pop out 2 – nice job on the push to backside on 2 then the threadle slice on 3. You can be even closer to 3 to get a tighter line.
>I thought my tunnel send and connection was clear, but he still came into the jump.>
This was at :35 – you looked at him before takeoff but then as he was jumping you turned away to the jump. So when he landed he saw you running to the jump and came with you (it looked similar to 1:03, where you did want the jump not the tunnel). Maintaining the connection and taking a few more steps forward should commit him to the tunnel. At :55 you did take more steps forward so he got it – yay! You can look at him even more there and he will drive away to the tunnel even sooner.
You can send to the 10 backside without going as close to the entry wing, which will get you across the line to the blind sooner too!Pop out 3: This went really well!! Small suggestions to consider:
You can do a serp 1-2, starting him from a stay with a little lead out to set a smooth line to 2
A FC 7-8 might get you a tighter turn – the post turn showing him a wider line for a heartbeat because your motion moves to the 4-13 jump before he sees the connection on the new side.
The brake arms at 11 were really effective!
You did a threadle wrap at 13 and it looks good – it might be fun to try a threadle slice at 13 because it can se a faster line 13-14-15. It is fun to be at the point where things are going really well so you can play with different options to get the fastest lines 🙂
Great job here!!
Tracy
Good morning!
>It’s kinda slippery without one and it keeps thinking I am trying to touch the edges>
Yes – slippery and heavy! I bought a cheapie cover just to be able to deal with that (and to protect it because I seem to drop it all the time LOL)
I love seeing Lift jump into your arms at the end of her run here! Yay!
The pop out went really well – she approved of the extra room for jump 1 🙂
On the first run, I think getting too far ahead for the backside push a :22 disconnected you and accidentally showed a decel which made it look like a front side cue. You had more motion into it at :51 (just by a little but that was all she needed) and definitely REALLY clear connection created no questions. Yay! So you can wait a bit longer as she is in the tunnel so that you can move into it and support the line with motion and connection.On the send to the front at :26, I think the big decel also disconnected you and she had a question. Compare to the next rep where you had more gorgeous connection and continued motion, which made for a lovely send.
So since motion is supporting the sends, we can strategize not getting too far ahead on these smaller setups, so you can use motion along with the connection to support the lines.
I am glad Kaladin is back to feeling 100%!
The thought the send to 1 was a bit boring and didn’t fly to it: do you think it was jumping towards the fence, or does he just not love these starts? We can work on building the love if that is the issue.
He ran the 5-6-7 to the backside really well at :17 but you were really far ahead here. I wonder if you were not as far ahead, he would drive faster? So getting closer to the jump after the tunnel so you are moving/more faster up the line, same as Lift but for a different reason: Kaladin LOVES when you scramble LOL
Interesting that he missed the tunnel at :25 on the blind – I like the blind there! I think you had done the FC there before like you did on the next rep but definitely break down the blind so he can find the tunnel because the BC will move you through faster. You can start it as a serp-to-blind then eventually fade out the serp part of it.
>I wasn’t expecting this but I actually think the backside push to BC worked better at the start than running into a threadle slice.>
I agree! The motion was a bit of a scramble for you (which he loves :)) and the info was clear & timely. The blind to threadle slice at :54 & 1:07 caused the threadle cues to be late which slowed things down a little – ideally the threadle cues would happen before he took off for 1, but that is when the blind was happening. You could try a blind to blind there which he will like (the scramble :))
>Threw in a bonus layering bit at the end because I was curious if he would switch away that far out of the tunnel.>
This was great! He is really get strong with all the layering – this is the stuff he is going to see on course nowadays so I am excited that he is finding it all relatively easy now!
Great job! See you soon!!!!
Tracy
Good morning!
This went great! Check out his awesome stay! And he definitely have no questions about the back and forth element – he didn’t need a lot of help and he was strong in both directions. Super!
So since this went well and was relatively easy for him 🙂 You can move the wings closer together so everything has to happen faster (for you both). If they were about 5 feet apart here, try them at 4 feet apart. And if that is easy? 3 feet apart for the next session! That will really quicken his lead changes and I have found it to be a nice foundation for eventual weave training too 🙂 If it is too hard on all the wings, you can do it on 2 wings then 3 wings but I think he will figure it out really quickly.
Great job!
Tracy
