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Good morning! The video looks great!
>>on video I think in posting guidelines it says to post -first 2 -last 2 -2 at the middle>>
The lazy game is more of a training game (not as much of a sequence) so you can let the camera roll for 2 or 3 minutes of the session and then post it (no editing needed:) )
The lazy game is looking great! You were perfectly lazy LOL and he really didn’t need much help to find the line. He did look at you a tiny bit when you expanded the distances and you turned pretty early – he was not sure if you wanted the middle jump or not, so you can wander out towards it a little more 🙂 But stay lazy for now 🙂
But overall his commitment looking really strong! You can mix in randomizing the rewards: sometimes reward for the first jump, sometimes after all 3, sometimes after the 2nd one, etc.
>>I just LOVE this game LOL because *I* don’t have to move much!>>
Me too! And it really helps commitment blossom especially when we handlers are not perfect in our motion or connection!
>>our weather… ugh HOT. And he is ‘melting’ when it’s just 70 but full sun. So we can’t get to Agility field; and space you see on this video, is ‘all’ space I have at home. (at home we can do late evenings and also he goes in and out of the pool so he is ‘nice and WET’ >
You can expand it to a 2 jump game and add more distance like that, until you can get cooler weather on the agility field!

>>One-Step Sends and Exit Line Connection
so for this game, would it make much difference if we do 1-2 reps with tunnel and rest using wing instead?>>Ah yes, good point – tunnels for a Dane are basically like army crawl workouts so totally yes – do a rep or two with the tunnel then switch to a wing or barrel to replace it. To give it a tunnel-like feel, you can do 2 wings: one where the entry would be and one where the exit would be. That will better simulate the timing and will also let him have more speed.
>>Plank Confidence 1 he will NOT be doing dog-walk, I know he CAN but I know the risk of mis-step and him falling is too big. So we won’t be running STD – we still can do JWW, T2B and Fast. with that, do we need this game? Or it’s mainly for dog-walk?>>
Also a super good point!!! You can still do this game though – it helps him learn about balance and where his feet are, which will be useful for the a-frame and teeter too. You can keep the plank low, and since he is big you can put two planks side-by-side to create one wide plank, or use a flat a-frame. It also teaches him about different textures and surfaces, so I think you will still find it useful.
>>The Mountain Climber hehe

I don’t think it’s for us>>HA! Yes, another good point. I mean, you don’t want to lift him off the end LOL!!!! But we can modify and still get him to NOT slow down.
Do you have agility tables? With the large breeds, we do a lot of table-to-table games to get them driving across the teeter more and not stopping in the middle, and also to add the handling that we normally do with smaller dogs on the mountain climber games. That way he gets all of the same learning and confidence boosting, but without any potential risk. We can also modify the other teeter games to help him out too!
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
Tracy
Hello and welcome back!!! 15 months old already… perfect age to really start putting things together in agility and in flyball. HOORAY!!!
Yes to early morning starts 🙂 But also, we have a lot of daylight the time of year so I have found that 8:30pm is actually lovely! I just feed dinner to the dogs after training 🙂
Have fun!
TracyGood morning!
I hope you are feeling much better and fully recovered from covid!
>>still had treats that were taking to long to eat >>
I think that is what caused some of the questions: treats that needed to be crunched crunched chewed crunched then by the time she swallowed it… the chain of though was broken and you were stationary.
>>We did get into some legit starting contests. I was not sure what I was doing wrong in those.>>
This happened after the duration chewing 🤣 Looking at the staring contests – it looked to me like a question on if it was a stay or not. Like at :38 – :44, you were stationary when she finished chewing, she was lined up in front of a jump… she probably assumed she had missed a stay cue and that you were doing a lead out. It is the exact picture of a lead out.
Same thing happened at :53 and 1:02. This did not happen when you were still moving or when the treat was easier to eat.So simple fix: treats that are visible and easy to swallow, no chewing required. I use small pieces of cold string cheese (cold o they don’t get melty and stick to my hands). Highly visible, highly motivating, highly slurpable. No chewing required 🙂
And if she takes a moment to find the treat or eat it? Just keep slowly moving rather than stopping, so she doesn’t mistake it for a stay cue. You can spread the jumps out a little so you have more room to move – that should be no problem for her because her commitment looks strong!
Great job!
TracyHi!
>>I think most of this was because while I was setting this up she was playing out in the pasture so she was hot and tired. >>
Yes, with the heat it is probably better to save the play outside til after the agility. She looked a little hot here for sure!
>>She has a good start line but she comes off flat when I ask for it especially in a trial. >>
The stay does look great! I think adding more forward focus, where she looks at the first jump on cue before the release, then getting rewarded for it, will help a lot! Start it with a low bar so it is easy and fun, then work it back up to full height. Forward focus can build a lot of excitement and anticipation, which builds speed and motivation.
On the sequence: she read the 1-2 line really well, but I do think the forward focus games will help get more speed.
The spin on 3 was very late at :08 and :50 so she landed hard. To do a spin there, start decelerating into the FC part of it when she lands from 2, then as she is approaching takeoff to 3 you can finish the full spin.
The RC on 5 works but you can blind too on landing of 4 to get even more speed!
And cue the tunnel rather than just assume she will do it – you asked her why she was missing it and she said it was because you ran away and never cued it🤣😂🤣 You cued it at the end and she took it perfectly!
She didn’t get rewarded there when she didn’t take the tunnel and she definitely should have – there was no clear cue for the line (verbal or connection) so she didn’t know what to do… withholding reward implies that it was her error (it was not) and that can draw off motivation.
You did a FC 2-3 and RC on 3 on the last rep – I think the dog-on-left to the spin makes more sense on the line and puts you in a better position for the turn on 5.
2nd video:
>>We also can’t layer for beans. I’m not sure how to train that.>>
To set up the layering, you can run closer to 2 so as she is approaching 3, you are not that far ahead and also accelerating as you cue the tunnel.
On your first rep, the send to the tunnel :11 had a big decel so she was not sure if she should follow the verbal or the motion. The rep at :39 had more motion to suppprt the verbal, and that helped her commit really well. And so did 1:02! Yay!
Motion is the key to layering, so setting things up so you can be moving will help a lot. Also, though, doing sends without motion on the verbal only (especially to the tunnel) will really help!
And, throwing rewards way out on the line and super far from you also really helps set up independence on the layering skills too.
When something goes wrong, I want you to keep going, make something else up if you need to, then reward her. Chances are super strong that she is reading your cues correctly, so it will dampen her motivation if you don’t keep moving or reward her.
At the end you did seq 1 again – the spin at 1:38 started when she was in the air, so she hit the bar trying to adjust. Remember that it should be finished before she takes off, so as she lands from 2 you can be decelerating to begin it as you commit her to 3.
Nice job with the tunnel cue at the end!! She took it with no problem.
Nice work! Stay cool!
Tracy
Good morning!
>>Opening was really tough for us; she kept heading from 1 to 6.>>
You didn’t show much of that, only one spot where she was really looking at 6 and it was because you gave a big step to the backside (2:57) which actually propelled her to 6 a bit.
I liked 2 as a slice better (you did a wrap on the first rep) – definitely faster! She needed a moment to solidify her commitment as you ran through 2 to the blind – you can look at the landing spot as you fly through there like you did at :54, and when she looks at the jump you can add the blind. That skill will keep getting stronger and stronger.
The more you reward finding 1 with you in those different positions, the easier it will be! It would be fun to eventually be on the takeoff side (threadle side) of 2!
Her Teeter looks great, keep rewarding it! Layering the jump looked good there too! She was starting to self-release the teeter on the 2nd video, so reward those a LOT in course work or she will start to anticipate the release.
After the teeter, the threadle at 6-7 was challenging. You need a turn cue that is stronger and earlier for 6, so she is already turning to her right towards you for the threadle. Also, on the threadle slice, you are leaning forward with your hands down and forward… I think that actually propels her to the front side of the jump. It might be clearer to be upright with the threadle arm back, upper body rotated towards her. You can also walk through it for a bit, so she can read the cues without having to sort through the excitement of motion (motion muddies the water for sure!)
The line at 10-11 will be a lot easier if you add in the 8 jump 🙂 You did 6-7-9-10 which makes it a whole lot harder for the handler 🙂 You are not the only one to do it without 8 though LOL!! I will be looking to see why people didn’t see it. The goal of 8 was so the handler can go to 8, get the turn 9-10-11, then be miles ahead for 12 and so on.
Tunnel instead of DW is clever! And FUN! I think the distances were too massive though, that blue tunnel was sooooo far that it made getting the jump after it too hard for you both (and she took the weaves at the end, probably too many reps through there so she was starting to offer different behavior. Regardless of the distances though, the big GO cues before she entered the 12 tunnel were very effective to get her to go go go 🙂
Her weaves look good – you can see if she will finish them without you, and you can then use a lower and more obvious arm to flip her away to the tunnel without you also having to go to the end of the weaves.
>>my timing was all over the place for 18, 19.>>
Part of that is she doesn’t anticipate 2 threadle wraps in a row (lack of experience that such a thing exists) and also the timing on the 2nd one was late (you would need to start it as she exits the wing of the previous jump) or you stepped in towards the front side of the jump before she passed you.
The other thing was that the line didn’t make as much sense with 2 wraps as it would with slices there 🙂 I think 18 should be a threadle slice (towards the teeter) which sets up 19 as a slice backside push, which gets a better line to 20.
2nd video:
Leading out to 2 and not really giving a big step worked well – she was able to find 1 (yay!) and didn’t seem to consider 6. Nice!!She was correct at :17 to take the front of 7. Your position on the FC at 6 was pretty far across the bar and showing that line, and then you didn’t push her to the backside. Stopping and resending her implies that she was incorrect (she was not) and also takes you out of learning to handle her in flow and adjust after an error. So……. No stopping! Keep going!!! It is better for you both 🙂
Same at :45… the cue for the 2nd threadle wrap was unclear (you stepped into her line for the front of the jump at :44 before she passed you, so she took the front) – note how she slowed down there, waiting for more info when you reset her line. We don’t want the slowing down (and doing it as a reset doesn’t help the timing challenge that caused the wrong side of the jump) so just keep going.
It won’t damage her understanding of verbals (I know people who say that if we don’t stop, then we are damaging the verbals but I completely disagree!) When verbals and physical cues conflict, she has to choose one or the other but resetting or stopping without reward can damage her confidence and create frustration. So…. No stopping, keep going 🙂 Ideally you keep going, reward, watch the video… then try again.
The middle section looked good tunnel-tunnel-jump-weaves! You got up the line well, and I think she cemented the concept and was able to execute it really well!
Nice work here! Let me know what you think!
Tracy
Good morning!
>>I think we’re just going to really double down on jump mechanics, strength training and handler distraction proofing. >>
That will be super beneficial!
>>As I’ve worked toward more getting ahead there are times I send him and rush away and I do think he finds that distracting. I think both him being able to handle that more and me trying not to do it too abruptly will be good as well as just getting him a little stronger.>>
And also, show him that as part of the distraction proofing. I do that very specifically: I know what my weaknesses are as a handler (so many to choose from! LOL!) so I take each weakness and show it to the dog in a grid or on one jump, and reward LOTS of not touching the bar. It can be stuff like “I might yell TUNNEL over the bar” or “I might send you and disconnect like a crazy person and rush away”. Those little proofing moments help the dogs a LOT to clarify what they need to do with the jumping.
And with a one jump game (I put a lot of arousal into it so I can elicit some jumping errors :)) or a grid, I am able to give fast, clear feedback if a bar falls – that is also super useful!
>>1. We do some jump grids – could do more. I also have added less of the sterile type with more movement and varying cues and intensity of verbals. >>
Perfect! Targeting the grids to what you need can mean you don’t need to do more, but you are more effective because training time is limited.
>> We do our own little workout for rear/core strength. I don’t think I’ve been doing it as consistently as I should be so we’re working on trying to do 2 short sessions a day. I call them “Bed Burpees”. We use his cato plan for a good start position then either do sit on board to paws up on bed, sit on board to hand touch a little higher and more explosive over the bed, sit to hop up on the bed from various distances. >>
Fun! I think rotating them to do burpees every couple of days and something else targeting different areas on different days will be more complete. I have a little circuit set up that I put the dogs through every 2 or 3 days and that is fun too 🙂
One thing that my dogs found HARD but useful with the burpee stuff is going from the sit on the plank to a hop forward to a disc… then hop back to the sit on the plank. Rear feet never moving…. SO HARD! Push forward? Easy. Pull back into the sit? OMG!
About stopping for bars – I am fine with it if we can nail the timing, as in I can see the error that caused the bar down and mark it and stop. And it falls into the 2 failure rule… if I am stopping the dog more than twice in the session, or stopping the dog twice in every session, then the dog can get frustrated and we get unwanted behaviors.
>> they are the tail bump or tail wrap type I’m not sure he’s always totally aware of them (the late bar drops especially).>>
He might not care because he might not be aware that it happened 🙂 That tail! LOL!
>>including some nice side to side exercises and using some unstable surfaces. >>
That sounds great!
>I just need to be more consistent.>
Totally relatable!!!! Same here.
>while we’re doing all the jump mechanics, strength and running contacts work I’m trying not to overdue coursework (plus the freaking heat) so we’ll likely do more of the short sequences even though I’ve got a good amount of space.>>
I have this same struggle! I have gone to scheduling it on the calendar LOL that has helped and also reduces the stress of trying to get everything done. It is like making dates with the dog(s) LOL!
The sequences are looking really good!!
Seq 3: He is reading the opening line really well, so now it is a matter of subtleties… I don’t think you needed a turn cue on 2 at :04 – he collected then had to go back out to find the backside (I think there was a bar tick when that happened). That first rep is generally the most helpful in terms of what the dogs need before they learn the sequence 🙂 Your turn cue was pretty strong, so I think a softer turn cue can get less turn which should set up the line perfectly. Something like a moving brake arm can be the right balance – more on that coming tonight in the live class!!
He collected there too on the other reps as well but didn’t consider coming into the gap – he put himself back into extension to the backside/3 jump and we don’t want to dilute the collection by pairing it with extension after.
From the handler perspective, being stationary for the collection on 2 made the turn cues on 3 later, so he was wider, which set up ticks/bar down on the 4 jump (:31)
You stopped and reset the bar there, which is fine. It looked like a combo of the line being a little off on the 3-4-5 moment and you getting way ahead, so he just didn’t quite get the mechanics there.
To reset and be able to reward the bar, try to ask the same question by starting further back in the sequence (or the beginning on something short like this) – that way you are showing him the same/similar question so he can learn more about the mechanics. Having him jump it on one jump from an easier angle/less motion doesn’t ask the same question (from you both) about what led to the bar down, so you can just go back into the sequence rather than send him over it in isolation. If you can re-create what caused it on one jump, then sending him over it is fine. In this case, it was very different looking (you were walking and behind, rather than running and ahead, plus his angle was different and there was less speed coming into it) . Starting from the beginning of the sequence will be more effective in the jump education (or a couple of jumps back if you are working a bigger course).When you repeated the sequence at 1:21 – 1:26 the handling was more connected and you didn’t get as far ahead so his mechanics were lovely!
Adding the different ending at 2:01 (crossing 5-6) – you got a bark on the FC at 3 as he was landing. Because you were going for the cross, you were lateral from the line and not moving as much, so he was looking at you and asking what’s next 🙂
Strategically, it would be fun to see if being further from 1-2 and closer to 3 can set that opening line and turn better (you can be more on the correct line and not as far laterally from it), and set the send to 4 sooner so you can drive into the 5-6 cross sooner too.
You got a bark on the FC 5-6 too – as you finished the FC, you were backing up towards the tunnel so he had a question on the line: upper body said jump, motion said tunnel (2:01). Keep moving forward, very close to the jump, and he will not feel the need to discuss with you 🙂 The same will be good when you do the BC there (2:43) – run forward directly to the jump rather than rock back towards the tunnel. He is reading the crosses really well! And going directly to the jump will give you more time to put a turn cue on 6 (when he lands from 5). Those cues were happening at takeoff for 6.
The German turn option at 2:25 was great! He was a tiny bit wide on 5 – you can play with using a a turn cue for 5 (star tined after landing of 4, something soft like a left or his name) and less of a push cue before takeoff – the psh tends to propel the dogs and he didn’t seem to need that here. You can also do a flip away instead of the BC exit and layer the jump as you drive to the final jump. The choice of which is better (German or flip away) will depend on what is next on course, but it is great to have different options in your toolbox! He was great about NOT looking at the off course tunnel!!!!!!!
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyGood morning!!
>>The cues I have are right, left, lalala (take jump and wrap left), 2 2 2 (take jump and wrap right), GoOn or go, around (backside), out tunnel (take side away from me), pull-it tunnel (cross in front of me to take tunnel), easy (slow down for weave entry), target (stop 2-on at end of dog walk and teeter.>>
This is a great set of verbals! I am going to try to convince you to add a backside wrap verbal. Around is great for the backside slices (which are roughly enter on one wing, exit on the other wing) and because he is big and fast, a backside wrap verbal that is different will really help too. The backside wrap is a very different behavior (so much collection) so a different verbal will help him set it up even when your handling can’t always be there.
Do you have threadle verbal(s) too?
On the first video:
He was leaning towards 1 in the stay but looking at you. You can wait in your lead out spot for a little longer and cue him to look at the jump (I slowly put my arm up and point at it) then release when he looks at it. Getting him to look at it and look at the line will help with the jumping! The sideways jumping on 1 and 2 for those slices is hard and on this opening, he ran fast and hard… but didn’t get his mechanics coordinated so hit bar #2.We are all having a special guest to give us some ideas specifically for this type of jumping! It will be on July 3rd and will all be recorded 🙂
When he exits the tunnel, you can start saying his ‘jump right’ cues as soon as you see his nose exit. You can probably just use your ‘right’ cue and don’t need to use the ‘jump’ verbal at all.
On the opening of the 2nd video:
Yes, you accidentally cued the left turn on 2 as you pulled him toward you then sent him away, totally looked like a flip away cue (the upper body pointed to the left turn wing and your motion leaned back a little, so he turned left). He jumped that nicely!!
When that happens (because we sometimes turn the dog the wrong way), try to keep going so you get used to recovering from bobbles and can still run clean 🙂
The handling of 1-2 on the 2nd and 3rd run was much clearer: you were clearer in handling it as a serp line and he read it beautifully. Yay!
You can add decel into the around on 3 to get a little more collection: as he exits 2 and before he passes you, slow down a bit to help him set up a turn stride. And good job staying in motion when he ended up on the other side of you! He dropped the bar at 1:01 of jump 3 because you were accelerated then did the FC just before he took off – he was surprised and had to adjust in the air.
He had a little trouble sorting out his stride at :42 on jump 5 when you started cuing the tunnel. You were a little quiet before that and you had looked forward, so I think he was surprised and his feet went everywhere for a moment. He kept the bar up (good boy!) but you can definitely show him sudden accelerations on these types of lines, so he gets experience maintaining his jump mechanics while also going fast 🙂 He was MUCH better at 1:05 in terms of jumping style 🙂 Your cues were sooner and he sorted it out really well!
Great job here!
TracyGood morning!
On the first video:
>>I just told him to wait, he chose to sit. >>
He was also very keen to play!
The first video look like a fun session even though there were a couple of bloopers at the beginning!
>>He wasn’t sure what to do with just a Wait in this context, don’t think I’ve ever done it in agility anyplace but in RDW training with him on the DW or plank. The “I sit in front of a jump” behavior is strong. Also, the release from my “wait” isn’t nearly as clean as when I cue either a sit or down.>>
He figured it out at the beginning as “something with not moving and staying here” 🙂 He did move forward a tiny bit before the release, but that might be part of the release needed to be clarified:
Might be that the looking back at him is paired into the release: you look then release within a heartbeat. That is what happened at :29 (you looked back then released almost immediately) So he might have been anticipating the rhythm of the release. But again, he was keen to go and didn’t look worried about anything.
With the handling:
You had a little tooo much decel at 2, and he saw acceleration as he was jumping it but hadn’t yet turned… and the weaves were indeed right on his line 🙂 a wrap verbal will help there too!
When you put it all together, you were both great! Your cues and connection were super clear. He found the line with no problem and his acceleration to the tunnel was awesome!!!
You can add more lateral distance on this one too – can you be closer to 3 to handle that turn, then send to 4 and 5 so you are way ahead on the tunnel layering? Fun!
On the 2nd video: The forward focus is going well!
>>He chose to stand at least once, maybe twice>>
Yes, he is anticipating the rhythm of release after you get into position 🙂 So be a little less predictable with that rhythm! You can get to position, praise, cue the forward focus, throw a reward back, etc, so he is not expecting that the release comes within a second of you getting into position. We humans are very rhythmic and dogs are brilliant figuring us out.
He was definite figuring out the looking at the jump! Yay! You can also sometimes throw a treat to him after the forward focus, so he doesn’t look at the jump and release before the verbal release. That will help him understand that the release and the forward focus are not paired.
>>I’m pretty sure for me that interrupting doesn’t involve swearing and stopping does!>>
Maybe add swearing to everything, then? HA! Just kidding 🙂
Great job here!!
Tracy
Hi!
>>on the teeter game arent you concerned the pups might dive off>>
The game is built up carefully with a lot of help from us, and there is food on a target at the top that they are shown first 🙂 The video has the progression.
>>On the lazy game am sure In Synch will take first jump but likely to go zoomies before second or very wide and miss – she is not super great on food (working on it) do I just have patience>>
It is indeed an important skill and it is *not* about going fast. Do one jump at a time, with one reward for each jump. Maybe put the treat in a lotus ball or something very visible that she will want to grab and eat?
Tracy
Hi!
He is super confident on a lot of these big lines! Powerful and totally independent – I love it!
Overall, this is looking really strong. Some ideas for you, looking at the different sections:
When using the slingshot start – you will shave off time by doing it on more of a slice angle instead of sending straight on, or by using a brake arm as he approaches 1 to get collection. The straighter the line you set up or if you send him away on an angle away from 2, the wider the turn is (like at 1:02 and 1:52)
Try to be moving more to 3 for the turn 2-3 and not across the bar at 2 as much, then finish the FC 2-3 sooner or do a quick blind – jumping wide at :04 and 1:04 based on position and timing there. If you are moving to 3 and also finished before he takes off, you will have a great turn.
I thought your line was more towards 3 at 1:55 and his turn was much better!
Turn cues needed on 6 for 7 at :10 and 1:11, something subtle like a name call just to get him to turn before 6 so he lands facing 7, rather than land straight and then turn to find 7 (it will shave off time to get the turn before takeoff for 6).
You had a little too much turn cue at :12 for 8 – yes, I think you had a 180 verbal going but it is more of a backside. You also turned your head to look forward and peeled away – he sees everything!
I don’t recommend marking him as wrong there, he really had to choose between several different cues… keep going in the moment rather than resend from a different line.
You supported that line to 8 so nicely at 1:12!! And still had plenty of time to handle the line on the tunnel exit.
The BC on the end of the tunnel had a wider turn, you can cue a turn before he enters (or do a RC on 10 so you don’t have to do a spin or decelerate or anything). I bugged Jen about this too LOL
The RC at 2:08 was just needing you to turn your feet to the center of the bar more; it looks like your feet were pointing to the backside line so that is where he went. And when you did get the RC on the next rep, you were miles ahead for the weave entry and could really help him. That RC skill is definitely going to be useful as you get more comfy with it!!
The backside of the jump in front of the weaves was a big distraction! Handling it a bit more like at 1:30 with more connection and your outside shoulder coming forward helped. And more experience passing a jump t find that soft side entry will help too!
On the threadle on 13 – don’t leave that threadle spot until he looks at the jump (:39) you gave a threadle verbal then changed the cue as he came around the wing and peeled away – the cue didn’t override your motion away, so hold position until you see his head turn to the jump, then you can take off.
You stayed there longer at 1:36 and he got it easily 🙂 To be able to get to the blind after the 14 tunnel sooner, you can split-step away from the threadle rather than move along the bar. What I mean by that is to hold your threadle position on the entry wing – don’t move til he looks at the bar… then when he does, you can start cuing the tunnel (looking at the bar is confirmation he will jump it, I would be surprised if he didn’t). And while you start cuing the tunnel, you are leaving directly to 15. That will save you 2 steps or so, which are very valuable in getting to the blind to set up the FC turn for the last line.
I think you were pretty much doing the split step exit of the threadle at 2:27 and you definitely got to the blind sooner. YAY!!! Add a little decel as you send into the FC and it will be perfect (a brake arm will help too when you cannot use decel as much, more coming on that tomorrow!)
Getting to the blind earlier on 15 on that last run set up the whole ending to just be lovely! Yay! Amazing how one or two steps make such a difference on the next section of the course. Great job here!
Tracy
Hi!
>>The video is 3:35, with lots of starts and stops. Do you want me to pull out the main pieces, or do you want to see all the bits?>>
Put it all in, I can slide through stuff we don’t need to discuss, and editing takes too long 🙂
>> when I do I feel like I’m just standing around watching her and then I’m late to get moving to the next thing. The handling always looks fabulous. How do I combine waiting, watching, and moving?!?!?>>
Experience! You know how we talk about neuroplasticity, etc etc with the dogs? Well it is for us too. You just need to keep practicing moving along the line while watching for your window. There are already sooooo many significant improvements in how you are attacking the handling! Before you run her, walk the course and think about/visualize what you are looking for her to do, and it will get easier.
Also, give yourself permission to be late! Only one of you needs to go really fast, and she has elected herself. She goes fast and you just navigate. Don’t try to be fast about it, just be clear about it. So you will be a little late at this stage, which is fine because you can move up your timing as you get more experience on these big courses 🙂
Tracy
Hi!
>>Yep, as she got hotter she was less likely to look at the first jump. It might be a tell.>>
Yes, the heat is hard for the brain! I can relate! I have been using very cold treats for the dogs when I train in the heat and high humidity and that has really helped! No toys in the heat, it just makes them too hot if I want to do more than 1 rep.
> Plus, where do I look? Am I supposed to be connecting to her eyes like usual or do I stare at the jump?>
Look at her, a general connection, so you can see where she is looking. If she is just staring back at you, you can get closer to her or the jump to help out. Or you can put a target out past the jump (like a food bowl or something).
>> What’s the plan for indoors? Just a food bowl loaded?
If I recall correctly, she is able to hold a stay in front of a loaded food bowl. So you can set her up on a straight line to it. You move a little laterally away and start on the same line as her. Do you forward focus cue to the food bowl (hand cue, while you look at her). Then release her forward (I think she has a ‘dish’ marker, yes?)
And we can vary your position and get you further away, and further behind her.
And when you can get a jump involved, put the dish on the other side of the jump for a rep or two, then we fade the dish out and move to a thrown reward.>>She was pretty slow on sequence 3 with all of the turns. There was no where for me to go and it was a bit demotivating I think. It’s like the AKC pinwheels to nowhere! So good practice.>>
Right! The lower bars can help and also when I do ‘yawn’ sequences with the dogs, I throw the rewards really far so they can accelerate out of the sequence.
>> But…she didn’t so I just saved it. Because…that happens.>>
Saving it and continuing was the 1000% correct thing to do!
>>Multiple moves in a row are not my strong suit.
We can play with that this summer: getting two transitions in a row, then 3 transitions in a row! Fun!
>> The issue is I cannot leave anything on her unattended. It’s possible that she’s better now, but Sprite has ingested things off of her body on more than one occasion. Not just shredded it. She actually eats it requiring ER visits to induce vomiting.>>
YIKES! Ok, she can wear it when supervised only then! Does she like water (like in a baby pool or getting a bit of hose spray?). Just be careful getting her wet if the grass is really dry -we don’t want her to rip a pad.
>>The good news is I have a trial this weekend that my friends talked me into. It is 3 ish hours away and near the coast with highs expected in the 60s to low 70s.
That sounds divine!!!
>>However, both of her agility classes were canceled this week which is unfortunate. So, no weave or contact practice beforehand.>>
It is unfortunate but you’ll still be fine! She might need a little extra exercise or mental games this week to offset the cancellations but overall, it won’t be a problem.
>>I thought about lowering the bars, but I didn’t…obviously.>>
LOL!! I always lower bars in the heat or in tight quarters (you will see in the live class demos that the dog was jumping 4 inches lower, mainly because it was so hot even at 7am). It helps them have an easier time which keeps them cooler, and it makes it more trial-like for me in terms of speed and timing.
Tracy
