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Oh wow! He is nailing this!!! Super!!!! Great job to you for getting this behavior going!
He does best when you keep your hands lower. At the beginning here (first 3 reps) you were bringing your hands up past your knees, so his head was coming up a bit and he was not backing up as much or going sideways.
But then after that, you kept your hands at your knees or just below your knee, and he had a more natural head position – so he was able to back up straight and further and further! YAY!!!!!
So definitely keep your hands a low as possible. This is hard on our back (staying bent over) so you can sit on a couch, giving him just enough room to come forward between your feet then back up. That might be easier than bending over while standing!
Great job here – we build on this later this week!
TracyGood morning! He totally does love the barrel games!! YAY!!!
His commitment looked strong in both of these videos. I think he only had one blooper, when you tried to start the FC just as he arrived at the barrel (making it a little sooner than he could handle at the moment).
He was also hitting the barrel a bit on the reps where you started the FC sooner.
So to be able to the FC starting sooner and help him not hit the barrel, you can try 2 things:
– when you are planning to do the FC pretty early, you can walk through it instead of run 🙂 Running is a distraction for him (gotta get to da momma!!) and he was rushing his mechanics to drive to you. So by walking through it for a session or two, he can focus on his mechanics to both complete the wrap even when you do the FC really early, and to not touch the barrel.
– I love that you were getting him pumped up!! Keep doing that – then before you send (and ideally before he jumps up on you), line him up at your side, hold him for 3 or 4 seconds (you can start you verbal at this time) – then send him to the barrel. That extra heartbeat or two of looking at the barrel will help him get organized and ready, which also allows you to be able to do the FC earlier and earlier 🙂
Great job here!
Tracy
Hi!
Shaping the retrieve went great! It is a good place to use a clicker because it actually benefits us that he looks at us!Since he was lifting the toy and bringing it towards you really well here, you can go to the next step: teaching him that getting the toy to your hand is what gets the click 🙂
You were reaching for it here, so you can switch that a bit: have your hand out and visible, like a target (palm up). Then when he touches the toy to your hand, you click.
Be careful to not reach for the toy – it is now part of the criteria that he brings the toy to your hand with you trying to reach for it. You can click any part of the toy touching your hand initially, so he associates getting the click the toy touching your hand (basically, the toy hitting your hand will become the click :))
As he sorts it out, you can delay the click:
– the toy needs to rest in your hand to get the click
– you need to be able to close your fingers around the toy to get the click
– You can tug on the toy first! Then click 🙂
Then you can add a verbal cue!> He did quite well, but not yet bringing it to hand – I feel that he still needs to learn the concept of “holding” the object until I can take it from him. >
By making your hand the target, it won’t be long before you can have him holding it for a longer and longer time. When you want him to hold it, you won’t present the hand until you are ready for him to deliver it to you 🙂 But that is a couple of sessions away.
This might take a couple of sessions but I think he will figure it out really quickly!!
Great job :)
TracyGood morning! Lots of great work here!!
>I thought Arrow has the hang of this – I hope we were doing it right.>
I think he had the hang of it AND was having a great time! YAY!!
Good marker use here with the get it and thrown reward!
You can switch what you mark: rather than marking as he arrives at the jump, you can mark for that first moment of forward focus and moving to the jump – then throw the reward so the reward lands before he gets to the jump.
The earlier marker will help him not look back at you as he arrives at the jump. Plus, it sounds like he was hitting the bump when he was on your left, which might be a product of looking at you combined with not quite being organized in his movement on that side (puppy stuff). The earlier throws will take care of that.
Plus the earlier throws will allow you to move away laterally to add more distance – I think he is ready for that. If you have decent weather and no snow on the ground, you can take this outside to be able to get even more distance!
The barrel wraps look great – he is showing great commitment! There were only 2 reps, I think this is where you had forgotten the video on the other part of the session) what do you have that is taller? It was a forward send with some countermotion and a lap turn – both were really strong. You can incorporate this into the Handling Combos game!
The barrel is a little short as he is getting taller – do you have a taller barrel? Laundry basket? We take this to wings pretty soon but showing him a taller barrel will be a good bridge to the taller wings.
On the RDW section:
>(I just got this fancy blue mat from Mark Bills)>Mark Bills has so much great stuff!
Arrow did a great job getting his feet on the mat – it looked like a specific effort to get his feet on it, which is exactly what we want. I agree that the 2 rear feet criteria is not useful for all dogs and handlers, so I bet Euan’s method will work great!
It looks like you were staring at the mat and not following him through it. This is good!!! If you stare at the mat, you will see the feet a lot better than if you are watching him.
One thing I see here is that yes, his feet were good on most of the reps…. but he was also looking at you. You might not have seen that because you were busy staring at his feet 🙂
We really don’t want looking at you to get built into the RDW behavior (it makes it handler dependent and changes his striding) – we really want him to look ahead. So with that in mind, here are a couple of ideas to get him looking forward:
– use a verbal get it marker and don’t click. Clickers without a visual target for the reward almost always get the dogs looking at us, then the looking at us gets built into the behavior.
I am sure we can train with the clicker and get him to eventually not look at you… but I am not sure if that is how you want to spend your time LOL!!!! I like to spend my time doing other things so I just don’t use the clicker for stuff like this after the initial introduction to the behavior.
– use the get it marker like you did, and add a reward destination that is both very visual and very consistent in terms of the reward arriving at it. It can be an empty bowl (a big one 🙂 about 10 feet past the mat on each side (2 bowls needed) that you toss the treat into. It is fine if the treat bounces out as long as the treat is near the bowl, because it is a visual aid to get him looking forward and not at you. You can also use a towel instead of a bowl on each side. Eventually I switch to other visual aids to keep the dogs looking forward and not at me, but a bowl or towel is a great start.
(Side note: I also use these visual aids to start teaching turns off the mat :))
– you can incorporate the MM on one side of it and a bowl/towel on the other side. I know some folks use a placed toy on the ground but I don’t start with that because there might be too many errors.
I am not sure what Euan does to keep the dogs looking forward so you can ask to see what his progression has for that. Looking at you for a session or two early on in training is fine… but he is at the point where we need him hitting the mat and not looking at you 🙂
Great job!!!
Tracy
Good morning!
This went well!! She loves her wraps!
I thought the line ups went better and she had a clearer idea of when to begin each rep. Try to be quick with the line up so she doesn’t guess and start without you 🙂
You can also divide this session in half – 4.5 minutes of sustained engagement is expensive on a puppy brain! So you can do 2 minutes, get about 5 reps to the right. Then take a break and do another 2 minutes and get 5 reps to the left! That will get plenty accomplished and balance both directions.
>She’s pretty comfortable at 12:00, next time we’ll work on a little earlier for the cross. And damn, but my brain is so programmed to drop the toy on my first step 😮 Gotta work on letting her complete going around the barrel before I drop it.>
Two ideas for you that will cover both things here:
You can try walking through it rather than running. The when she catches up to you, you can take off and run 🙂 As you tried to do the FC sooner, you were exploding with motion and that wa harder. So if you slide away without a sudden blast of speed, she will figure out that to finish the wrap (motion can be distracting!)
And sliding away instead of running (for now) will help her not hit the barrel as she finishes the wrap.
The other thing you can do is reward with food – that is less visible and less distracting to see as she finishes the barrel wrap (so there is less touching of the barrel). Continue to tug in between like you did, but food can be the first reward after the wrap.
We can also go to something heavier so she notices it if she touches it. A plastic garbage pail can work, or do you have an old chute barrel? Those are harder to move when touched but also they don’t hurt if she touches them, to help her understand to not try to push through the barrel as she chases your line.
Great job!!
Tracy
Good morning!
> I guess 3 sessions spaced throughout the day weren’t enough for latent learning to set in, she needed overnight. >>
Correct – the overnight sleep consolidates the learning as part of t he dog’s 24 hour cycle. Another name for this magic 🙂 is sleep-dependent plasticity and it is mostly associated with REM sleep (as far as the science shows at this point – it is a field that is constantly expanding). So the dogs overnight have similar sleep cycles to humans (probably happened when they domesticated us haha) but they are shorter cycles than ours, so there are more of those cycles overnight… and that is likely not happening during the daytime sleeps/naps. I wonder if having more of those cycles and more short REM cycles overnight lead to more latent learning than humans how have longer cycles (therefore fewer cycles in the same time period). As far as I know, there have been no studies comparing human latent learning/sleep cycles to mammal latent learning/sleep cycles. Sleep is a hugely fascinating topic in humans and dogs!
> I captured a few sits that she offered on the bed and once she caught on to that, moved away from the bed, but I was still getting the “melting” switched off sits. >
Ah! The sliding into the down could have also been contextual! You can add toy play before/during the sit sessions – it will change her arousal state into a more optimized state for tighter muscles and no melting 🙂 I do most of my stay training for toys to build in the arousal, so it might serve two purposes for her too!
If you have a sit cue that is somewhat reliable (can be a physical cue) you can also cue the sit to help her discriminate.
The session went great! LOTS of strong sits and very little movement. She had a total of one early release, towards the end. But that moment is just as important as the reinforcement because it clarifies what does not get rewarded. You handled it perfectly of course 🙂
Just as I was going to suggest you add motion of walking away, you did it in the video. Yay! Nice job moving away while very very quickly getting the reward back to her. You will be able to ping pong your way to more and more duration over time. My next suggestion is to do this with a toy – the toy will bring more arousal to the game which is perfect: state dependent learning & memory is our friend! We are going to want her to be able to hold a stay in the most high arousal situations (internal and external) so adding the toy in these early stages will get her there very quickly.
It is possible that the stays will be shorter (for now) when the toy is the reward – or not. BWs are generally great at self-regulation so it is easy to add toy play. So start off with easy short stays with the toy and see how she does before adding duration and your movement.
Looking at the SSC game: this also went great! She is totally looking at the bowl; She is so funny: looks at the bowl after the cookies go in, looks at your finger point cue, then back at the dish. Yay!
After 1:05 when the dish got to a harder position, she had a slight delay for a couple of reps before looking at the dish. But then it go faster (back to normal speed from then the dish was in the easy position). And she did well when you changed sides too – same slightly delayed response when the dish got to the harder angle but she was successful. Yay!
She had one rep where you said dish and then she cut in front of the cone to get to it. Since ‘dish’ indicates that the dish is available to go to – no harm, no foul. But as the dish gets to harder positions where she is going to have to go past it to go around the cone, you can delay your dish marker until after she is at the cone and wrapping it. So the release to move to the cone happens when you see her look at the correct line (you can also use a wrap verbal if you have been playing with on). And the timing of the dish verbal will happen when she chooses the line to the cone.
A couple of ideas for next steps:
– work the game with the dish empty so she is looking at the line and still has the visual aid (cookies get dropped into it as the reward for when she goes to the cone). That is the first step to fading the dish. And you can try it with a toy instead of the dish!
– you can add your verbal cue for forward focus just before you point to the line, to begin to build up that cue.
– do you have a bigger/taller cone or barrel? We can move to something taller and have you standing up for this.
Great job here!!!
Tracy
Good morning!
I am very excited that his new long toys are a big hit! YAY!!!!
First barrel wrap video – he seemed to be a righty on the first two reps. I think his side preference changes daily LOL maybe based on what he did previously? But you can help him out but starting so close to the barrel that it is much easier to go the direction you sent him and not scoot in front of the other direction. That is what you did on the last rep here and he was great!
2nd video – weighting it definitely helped here! And also that clear step the side of the barrel you wanted got him to do the left wrap around it.
Big click/treat to you for moving your target line AND nailing the timing of your front cross at :42!!!
You changed sides on the next rep which worked, but I think you might find it more efficient for being able to leave sooner and sooner if you work the line all the way around on 1 side (like dog on right) then take a break and do the other side in the next session.
The next step will be to keep working towards doing the FC sooner and sooner… and using a toy as the reward 🙂
The PVC box intro session for running contacts went great! You can move to the next step which is to not reward in the box at all, but use a ‘get it’ marker and toss the reward past the other side of the box. Since part of the overall goal is to keep him looking straight and not at you, you will probably want to mark that first step into the box. And as he gets more experienced, you can delay the marker to mark for back feet but for now – mark front feet to get the thrown rewards tossed out ahead so he doesn’t look at you.
Like with the PVC box, the driving ahead on the parallel path and the rear crosses are built from the ‘get it’ marker so he doesn’t look at you. So don’t let any “yes” markers slip in (easy to suggest, so hard to do LOL!!) as those draw his focus back to you.
For the rear crosses, he was turning towards you on each one because you were still visible on that side (and not visible on the new side yet). I grabbed a couple of screenshots of what he was seeing:
https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1d9qSrBb_nvhjB_ayNLG9IJxnhMWECr-NmIVmm0vUv14/edit?usp=sharingIdeally you can be fully visible on the new side (after the RC) before he has to make a decision about how to hit the prop and which way to turn. So how to get to the new side sooner with a fast puppy? Start further away from the prop 🙂 That way he has more yardage to cover to reach the prop and before making a decision on the turn direction, which gives you more time to be visible on the other side.
> (so no food dish here)>
The bowl placed out on the turn side can help with a visual aid but he might still turn towards you – but totally worth a try! And the bowl suggestion from yesterday was for Strike a Pose, and he is ready for the bowl there for sure.
The concept transfer is going well! When you said ‘get it’ and tossed out ahead, he was looking forward and that is the main goal. He was definitely getting the idea – check out how he went and offered it at :41!!
To make this even more independent, 2 suggestions for you:
– add more connection to him by looking at him and not at the jump at all. When you looked ahead (like at :36) he didn’t really get on the line. And when you looked at him, he found the line between the uprights each and every time. Looking at him turns your shoulders to the line, which really supports this path.
– try not to start right next to him each time. You can toss the reward further and get ahead or move laterally away. Then mark with your get it and toss the treat when he is on the way to the uprights, and not when he arrives at them. That will really pump up his forward focus and lateral distance.
Great job here!!!
Tracy
Good morning!
“Breakfast with Tommy” HAHA!! I love it!
Video 1, wrapping with you standing: Perfection!
Video 2, wrapping the barrel with you standing: Perfection!
He was ALL IN on both of these videos and had no trouble with the wrapping.
Since these went so well, you can move onwards to the Turn And Burn game where both of you get to run more 🙂
Turn and Burn is here:
2 ideas for you when you add Turn and Burn:
– if he has any questions about going around the barrel without the bowl there, you can put a bowl out as a visual aid, but reward according to the parameters of the new game rather than put a cookie in the bowl (because you will be moving away)
– ideally, he doesn’t hit the barrel as he drives around it. I find that dogs hit the barrel when we get excited or present the reward. So during turn and burn, you can do the handling but be quiet (no big praise) and no big rewrd presentations until he is fully around it. My guess is that if you get excited and praise and whip the toy out, he will hit the barrel driving to you. So being a shade quiet for now will help him wrap as you are moving, without touching it.
Great job here! Have fun!
Tracy
Good morning!
She is doing well on the bone here! She was mostly offering front end but then decided to get all four feet on it at the end – GREAT!!! To help her get more of her back feet on it, you can take some of the inflation out so it is underinflated and moves less inder her feet. She was probably keeping her back feet on the ground to stabilize her balance so less inflation will make it easier to balance, and you’ll get more back feet on it.
>I can tell she is starting to get painful teeth. She’s barely grabbing the tug.>
Yes, she is probably hitting that age of ouchy mouth! So you can use the softest, flattest tug you can find. And you can back off tugging if she seems particularly painful that day.
>Not so good on the wobble board. She’s afraid of it. I’ll post the video.>
Yes, let’s look at the wobble board video to see what she is concerned about – movement? Sound? Both? Ideally you stuff things under the wobble board so it is barely moving and barely making noise, to help build up value. And use the highest value foods – for my little Elektra, she would get pieces of Egg McMuffin when training the wobble board because she didn’t like it 🙂 But she sured loved Egg McMuffins, so short (1 or maybe 2 reps total) for incredibly high value food will make a BIG difference for Chaos 🙂
Nice work here!
TracyGood morning!
> this is sort of unrelated to puppy camp but how do I stop her from jumping on people? She jumps up on everyone that comes to the door, but the worst was I had a visitor over the other day and she came charging in thrilled with the prospect of a new friend! She jumped on the couch (with wet feet), climbed on my visitor and was licking her which was NOT appreciated by my guest in the least. Sadie is harmless, but at that moment it was very awkward. She was not listening to commands and I ended up physically removing her to rescue my guest and put her in the laundry room.>
The good news is that she loves people!!!
She also loves treats, right? So when people come over, have her on a leash so you can prevent the excitement jumping. And you can have treats available to reward her for looking at you. That might be all she can do at first! Then eventually she can sit for you. And then eventually you can give treats to the other person, and ask them to reward her for sitting. That all builds up to a much more polite greeting 🙂
You can also teach her the pattern game from the resilience track – and when she knows it in the quiet times without company 🙂 you can then start to play it when company comes over. That will help her regulate her excitement and be calmer.
>
I love that she is enjoying the training! Once we get to the next steps of a game, I really don’t revisit the beginning levels of it – that is all built into the higher levels. That way I don’t feel stressed about trying to find to train All.The.Things. Now, if something is going wrong then yes, I revisit the easier levels to see where I can fix the problem. But if everything is good? I keep moving forward 🙂
Keep me posted!
Tracy
Good morning!
>Here is our FEO run from this past weekend again. I published to YouTube so it is better resolution. She was really amped to run and I was glad she came back to me after running past the 3rd jump.>
It was so fun to see it again! It was a LONG WAIT at the ring gait during the height change or whatever was happening, but you were doing tricks and dancing, so she was happy!
And I am VERY impressed with her engagement and focus at the start, sandwiched between ALL THOSE PEOPLE. Wow! Yay!!!!
>I was impressed with her ability to tune out all the people in the ring at the start line!>
Ha! I just typed how impressed I was then I read this. It is indeed impressive and I love love love that she seems to thrive in the ring when there is pressure. Biggest happy dance!!
>I got some feedback that in the 2nd half she was looking at the toy and that was why she ran past some jumps.>
Do you mean during the re-start, after the first toy reward? I think that was more about a slightly awkward line to the jump she went past – it was a lead change away from the line and you didn’t quite cue it. But she was looking for her lines and did drive ahead to the last jump!
But also – during the reset you can totally shove the toy in your pants, mainly because you train with empty hands so the toy doesn’t need to be added to your hands at trials. It might be a distraction for you both!
>What should be our next step from here?>
There are many next steps! Here are some ideas:
For JWW courses – do some more FEO where you take a longer lead out and run more of the course before rewarding.
How are your weaves coming along? If she is doing well, you can do some FEO runs to reward the weaves.
If you can find any USDAA or UKI runs – you can start to do “no toy in the ring at all” in-and-out runs. I suggest USDAA and UKI for that because there are no weaves in USDAA Jumpers or UKI Speedstakes, so you can add longer runs. Also, they are much less expensive so you will be happier to do more runs and can do short fast runs without the toy in the ring 🙂
You can start to add the contacts as FEO obstacles as well, one at a time, rewarding in the ring. This is a place to try USDAA or UKI as well, because they have multiple inexpensive runs with contacts so you can do more than one or two FEO runs per day.
Pretty soon, she will be running for REAL!
>I signed her up for a private agility session next week. It is a new location to both of us but my thoughts were to set up the remote reinforcement pattern game and do some obstacles & “let’s go!” back to the RR. Maybe I can increase the number of obstacles & ping pong to an easy rep & see how she does.>
Since it is a new location, go into the ring with the toys/treats with you. And if she is comfy, you can definitely add all of the ideas above! And yes, I think increasing the number of obstacles on flowing lines is great.
>Our next trial isn’t until Jan 25 & 26. I entered her in 1 run each day. So far we have only done 1 run in a weekend. This trial is like private agility! It is indoors, on turf, 1 ring. The ring is a room with 3 walls and the front area has gating. They only allow 3 dogs into the room to line up. (Frankie loves it there!)
It will be her first time in the ring indoors & on turf, but she has been here a lot and has used the practice jump in the building.>Dang that seems like a long time away LOL!
So I took a quick look. There is a UKI in Brooksville in early January:
https://entries.ukagilityinternational.com/ShowDocs.aspx?ShowID=5735and a USDAA in Apopka in Mid-January:
https://www.usdaa.com/events/event-calendar-details.cfm?e=115137I am not sure how far you are from those locations, but figured I would send the links. There is another USDAA in Fort White at the end of Feb but I don’t know if I will still be in FL.
There is UKI in early Feb but I don’t recommend it for Bazinga (I won’t be taking my youngsters) because it is a Cup event with a European judge, which means the courses will be stoooooopid hard.
>>We are coming to your Ring Ready Seminar on Jan 30th in Brooksville!!!!!!!!!!!!!
YAY!!! I can’t wait!!!
Tracy
Hi!
>And still I feel like his psyche is as fragile as ever so I’ll take great care to make it as fun an experience as possible on Sunday.>
Yes, adolescent dog psyches are pretty fragile… and so are adult women as we start our beloved dogs’ trial careers. What could go wrong? LOL!!!!! That is why support and the “Don’t Panic” mantra are all good. Stick to the plan of using the murder toy and keep me posted! He is doing great 🙂 And if we need to change something, we change it. No worries 🙂
Tracy
Hi!
I don’t think the patterns were too close to the ring – that was perfect for where you would use them at trials!
When he was outside the ring doing patterns at the beginning, he was looking at something to his right – the tight leash prevented him from getting to it and it was the leash pressure that seemed to be getting him to turn back to you. But he was definitely still thinking about it and not yet engaged as you moved into the ring. If you see him looking at something, you can do more of the back and forth pattern and loosen the leash, so he chooses to engage (rather than get stopped by the leash)Then you can try to pattern game him past the other dog (rather than cookie-on-the-nose magnet) to see if he can ignore the other dog too. So much to ignore in dog sports! LOL!!!
And then as you enter and get ot the line, do more volume dial tricks: you had 3 before the stay, maybe he needs more to get into a better state with the dog walk as the 2nd obstacle? His DW was stop-ish LOL – not a total leap but definitely not fully correct like the 2nd rep was and the other contacts were.
>I missed 3 obstacles after working the threadles with him just kept going, never knew a thing.>
That was connection – in each of those moments, you were running with your dog-side shoulder closed forward and not fully connected to him, so as you turned he was not sure if he should take the jump or not. Having your dog side arm pointing to his nose and your eyes on his eyes will totally help that – it was correct to carry on, to maintain the engagement because everything else looked great!!!!
Nice work here!
TracyUgh below zero, EWWWWW!! Fingers crossed for a short winter.
>I edited out those bad reps originally, but have dropped them into the video below.>
This is great, because it tells us why he was not getting to the new side… connection! He was not locked onto the toy or overly aroused by it at all – he just needed a clearer BC cue.
You were doing the blind and had the arm of your new side extended parallel to your body… which, when he was behind you, does not reveal connection so he did not see a side change cue and stayed on his line. On the first rep, you did open up your connection more when you peripherally saw him not changing sides – that was when he saw the side change cue and tried to change sides, but it was too late because he was already next to you.
I got screenshots! Here they are:
https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/16Grn8pT5Zk78SGhNYockJwlJAX65HTIQol-y8w-I9rY/edit?usp=sharingDogs really don’t read our hands as side change cues – it is all about the connection change. So as you do the blind, point the new dog-side arm all the way back to his nose as you look for his eyes, so he can fully see the connection and your upper body. I sue the other arm across my body (hand resting on opposite hip) to create that exit line connection by pushing the dog-side shoulder all the way back to the dog.
And do it with the high value toy in your hand – I bet he nails the blinds with the good connection 🙂
It gets easier as they grow up, because they associate the shoulder movement with the rest of the BC cues so they change sides more easily without as much reliance on the complete connection cue. But for now, make the connection big and obvious, and he will nail it 🙂
Tracy
Hi!
Collection sandwich looked great! She was reading all the handling info and doing well driving forward when you tossed the reward ahead after the pivot. Super!! When you add the Go verbal, you can run too so she gets used to seeing your acceleration as part of the cue.You can decelerate sooner – no later than when she is halfway to you. If you decelerate when she is arriving to you, her momentum will cause her to jump up a little.
The other thing you can do with the decels and pivots is use a long target (such as a long wooden cooking spoon with a dab of cream cheese on it) so you can reward her very low without you having to almost put your hands on the ground 🙂 That will help her keep all feet on the ground.
Backing up – looking really good! With the mat there as the target – you can use a more narrow space so it is harder to go to the side, then reward when she puts her back feet on it while backing up.
Rear crosses – the key to teaching to turn to the new side is the timing of your appearance on the new side. You need to be very visible as she lifts her head from grabbing the treat. You were PERFECT with that at 1:33 – she is lifting her head and you were in the perfect spot to get the left turn.
Comparing to the other reps, where she turned back to the original direction (1:43, 1:47, 1:53) – you were not as visible on the new side in the moment she lifted her head and had to make a decision, so she turned to where she could see you. I think on those reps, you tossed the treat a little too far away so it was harder to get to your next spot. Try tossing it closer to you only need one step to get to your next position. She is quick, so we need to get you to the new side quicker 🙂 It will get easier as she sorts out the game and realizes that yes, she can turn the new direction (away from the old direction).
I grabbed photos of what she was seeing, so you can see where you need to be to get the turn versus where you were when she turned the other way:
https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1wqtTGFlg2jAiXpfy-j8CEJmqigDZ4tYQI7Ugb6attmI/edit?usp=sharing
Great job here!!
Tracy
