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Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
>>. There is so much to think about out there>>
Totally agree! Agility is a complicated game!!! Just trying to remember 2 main points (like being super connected and don’t stop to fix anything) and you will have an easy time.
Sounds like the FastCat weekend was fun! And he did great with the Find My Face game here too 🙂 He was very patient with your disconnection 🙂 And got lots of cookies for finding you! Yay! He didn’t always come around to the front of you, but that is fine: he was still looking at you calmly and patiently, even though he was behind you. That is rewardable. Try a couple more sessions like this, then we can add it to a little sequence 🙂
>> Now I see why there is frustration when I disconnect and I think this game is definitely going to help us through those moments in the ring.>>
Right! Plus he will be working in a higher arousal state when it happens in the ring, but the arousal regulation of “don’t yell at or jump at the momma” will really help him stay cool when there are handler bloopers, and he will even begin to find lines to save you 🙂
Great job here!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
>> I need to find some new fun toys!! She likes the one I was using the best, but I’m sure I could find something else even better.>>
Yes – variety is very useful because even a high value reward can lose value when the dog get it repeatedly.
>>I think my dog training brain was tired since the tunnelers runs happened at the very end of the trial! I definitely could have kept her engaged better in these last two runs. 🙃>
That is something to remember as you work through weekend trials – you will get tired too, so be sure to rest, fuel, hyrdrate yourself too, and don’t try to do too much so you are able to be ready to play with the baby dog 🙂
> In AKC, can the dog grab the leash before you put it on them? Are they allowed to tug while still in the ring if you are making your way to the exit?>
Yes and yes, as long as the leash is attached before exiting the ring.
>>We played the Find My Face game. She was a bit confused in the beginning and just stood there while I got myself sorted out, lol, but then she got the hang of it.>>
She is figuring it out well – remember to start it with a regular pattern game before turning away. And also, remember that she does not need to come in front of you or anything… she just needs to be patiently engaged. So keep half an eyeball on her so if she is behind you and finding your face, then you can reward her.
>> She did get a little mad when I used it in “a course,” but she was able to keep working through it. Am I starting this step too early?
>>I think it was probably too many reps and also reward sooner – they have limited patience with us 🙂 so be sure to do it maybe once on a sequence then move on to staying connected.
She did well with remote reinforcement too! Bear in mind that you don’t need to do this with a bowl of treats on the ground. The goal is to establish a predictable reward station, so it can be a covered bowl or bag of treats, or it can be placed up on something. The toy was easier because we often do leave a placed toy on the ground so she was more familiar with the concept.
When you did it outdoors using the agility table, she seemed to recognize it as a reward station and had no trouble moving away from it. So you can add in using a portable table or chair that you can take to trials too! And you can use that for the next remote reinforcement steps too 🙂
Looking at the sequences: They are going well and your connection is really strong! I think the main thing to focus on is using your position more strategically so you can begin the crosses sooner.
Sequence 1 went well – strategically, you can stay more lateral and closer to 3 so you can send 4-5 and have an easier time getting to the BC. Going close to 5 made it harder to send to the tunnel and hustle to get the BC on time.
Staying closer to 4 and 5 and the tunnel made the RC line easy to get to – just be sure you practice your verbals before you run so she hears the correct ones 🙂
Handling from the landing side of 7 – strategically, you got close to 5 so at 1:31 you were not far enough across 7 and she thought she was jumping straight (bar down as she tried to adjust in the air). If you stay closer to 3-4 and use parallel line motion to send to 5 and 6, you can be across the landing side of 7 as she exits the tunnel. And then show her a serpentine upper body, with your right arm back and shoulders facing the jump so she takes 7 turning to her right to land facing the 8 jump.
Looking at the BC to spin sequence – the BC can start one stride sooner but more importantly: make a big exit line connection (dog side arm way back, opposite arm resting on your dog side hip, big eye contact) back to her at 2:33 and 3:17 so you can decelerate into the spin when she lands from 4. If you are looking for her peripherally, she will go wide (not seeing the line at 2:34 and 3:18) and your timing will also be late (spin started as she was jumping 5 at 2:35 amnd 3:19)
Reaching for the toy and softening the connected pulled her off the line at 2:40 – you were very clear at 3:24!! Yay!
Loking at the RC on 5 –
At 4:23 – you pulled to the left turn then as she was gathering for takeoff, pushed into her line and that is why she pushed off the jump (good job continuing there). She adjusted over the bar at 4:54 – she was turning left at takeoff but then saw you push in so she changed to the right over the bar. Ideally you would go up closer to 4 to set the RC line, which is the center of the bar of 5, so she can be turning to her right before takeoff.One other thing to consider: giving her longer breaks when running sequences. You did these all in a row and she was tired at 3:12 and then she did not want to line up at 3:55 – you can use her tongue length to decide if she needs water or a longer break. She did a lot of running in a row here, so a longer break was definitely needed so she took a break for herself, but I would take that as feedback to not do the next sequence – her stride was shorter and she was not moving as fast on the last 2 reps. So limit to 2 sequences in a row, then take a water break and give her a few minutes to recover between the next runs.
Nice work here! Let me know what you think!
Tracy
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
>, I think our chill may be closer than I thought. I think what felt a bit “off” is it “felt” like his engagement with me was conflicting with his focus/desire/arousal to get into the ring and line up. Hope that helps.>
You might be feeling the arousal regulation part of it – yes, he knows he is going into the ring soon, but also he needs to just wait without you needing to feed or entertain him non-stop, and without him staring at/barking at/etc the dog in the ring. So he will be stimulated and not sleepy 🙂 He doesn’t need to be fully engaged with you or offering behavior – just peripherally engaged. He can casually watch the ring, look around, etc, as long as he stays near you and doesn’t get caught up in what is happening in the ring.
>>I think we are ready to work towards remote reinforcement as we’ve done that previously in practice. I was planning to focus on that as well the next few weeks. Does that sound right?>
It sure does! Keep me posted 🙂
Tracy
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
>>He was super successful at the trail this weekend! I was thrilled with what he gave me. He had a great time. >>
That is great! Yay!
>>We ran the entire weekend at his preferred height and did FEO for 2 runs the first two days and one run the last day. We did no toy showing (it was in my pocket) and we started with two or more toy rewards the first day, 2 rewards and then practiced a start line on the 2nd day and one reward during the midlle of the run on the third day during jumpers since it was his only run. He read my handling and I rewarded after we completed a handling turn and/or weaves. >>
Very nice!!!!
>>No bard down the entire weekend.>>
BIG HAPPY DANCE! YAY!!
>>The one improvement I wanted to ask you about is right before we go into the ring. They had an extra set of baby gates about 10 feet from the entry gate. Pattern games and the volumn dial worked outside this area. Inside the ring he was paying attention, ready to go, and was all business. He seemed like he was settled at the start jump.>>
The extra set of gates is weird and you can always stay outside of them rather than have to cope with 2 sets of gates.
>>The first day his toy was enough to play the volume dial inside that 10 foot barrier. The 2nd day his toy was not enough motivator to get him within that wait area for the first run. He wanting to go in. For this trail, that is where they want the dog that is right about to go in. On the second run of the day, I could play the volume dial with his toy in that area.
>>The third day he only had the one run and I worked behind that area and we could play the games. I kept the time in that area really brief. I could get behaviors, but he didn’t want the toy (food was non-existent). He wanted to go into the ring.>>3 days is a lot for young dogs – just being in the environment is a lot, so what you were seeing was probably depletion. You can keep him further from the ring when he is not taking the toy or food, because that indicates an arousal regulation struggle. Moving him further away to a spot where he *can* eat and play is useful. Also, what kinds of treats were you using? You might need to go up in value: meatballs, rotisserie chicken, etc. Regular treats might not be strong enough motivators in that scenario.
>> he would put his muzzle in my palm, but his mind was not “chill”.
His mind does not have to be chill 🙂 We just don’t want him to be over-aroused or requiring a steady stream of treats and toys.
>> In the next few weeks, I wanted to figure out how to help him up close to last waiting area/gate. I was thinking maybe working more on chill, but wasn’t sure. I of course figure out the basic plan for that weekend.>>
The closer you get, the more powerful the motivators should be – super high value food and toys, plus patterns that require movement (like the back and forth game). You can do the chill further from the ring (no need for it right next to the ring gate yet).
>>He was great exiting the ring. He sat and got his leash on most times. I mixed it up with letting him tug on the toy as we went out after the start line and weaves.>>
Yay!!!! Great!
>>One additional question. He measures exactly at 22 inches. One judge had him at 21 7/8″. The other 22 1/4″ and then got 22″. Are there ways I can help set up for him measuring at 22 so he can jump 20″? With his OCD history in both shoulders (and for longevity), I’d like to be able to jump him at 20″ if possible.
Be sure he is very comfy getting stacked and having his feet moved, while keeping his head straight. Then you can play with the best head position – chin parallel to the ground? Slightly elevated? Slightly dipped? I use a peanut butter jar to get the dogs to change head position – they lick it while it move their head a little to get the best measure.
And before bringing him to the measurement, make sure he has run run run run run run run run so he is a little tired and relaxed. And don’t let him pump up on water til after the measurement. And be sure he is fully pottied 🙂 All of those can make a difference!
If you have someone else to help, they an hold him while you step and just stand in front of him with your hands relaxed to help position his head. That can often get a nice relaxed measure too!
Tracy
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
I am glad she did well in the trial! Yay!
>.. She did visit the leash runner, and the secretary’s desk, but returned pretty quickly. She’s getting better at working with other dogs and people working in adjoining rings at our little training class.>>
Can you get your classmates to come into the ring during her turn, to act as ring crew, leash runners, etc so she gets used to the crowd in the ring?
On the videos:
Video 1/Discrim 1: She is getting even faster!! I love it! The opening line of jumps looked good. She was a little confused about the tunnel discrimination, mainly because the leash toy was on the line and I bet she thought it was toy time (that is valid when there is a toy on the line). I couldn’t really see what the handling was over the jump before the tunnel but she figured out pretty quickly that you wanted the tunnel not the toy.
Discrim 3 (2nd and 3rd videos): the jumping line went well too – to help her find the pinwheel jump (#4) more easily, you can send to the tunnel while hanging back at jump 1, then be connected like you were when she exits the tunnel (that was great!) but be heading past 3 and getting closer to 4. You went a little close to the tunnel exit and then helped her more than she needs at 3, which made getting the 4 jump harder.
\>> no doubt she read something in my body language, or just auto pilot. >>
It was a combination of the leash being basically on her line so she went to it, then when she realized it was not the leash, she curled towards you and took the tunnel she saw. On the video where she did it correctly, the leash was a little further away and she had figured out not to go to it.
Discrim 4: This went really well and I agree, I think this is the longest sequence she has run in class! Yay!
You were further ahead of her when she exited the tunnel at :25, which made getting the line to 4 a lot smoother! Super! You can start telling her go tunnel sooner (as soon as she lands from 4) to help her drive ahead more easily. These were set at nice big distances, so finding the tunnel will get even easier when she has a bit more experience. And nice job getting the jump and not the tunnel at the end! Yay!
Great job here!!
Tracy
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi! A couple of ideas for you!
>>okay, so we have been working on the “get it” target but Sadie is so focused on the treat that she isn’t getting it at all.>>
One option is to try using a lower value treat (although some dogs love any treat LOL!). A half of a Cheerio might be a good starting point.
> I feel like she just chases the treat and running over the target is only because it’s in her path. >
A couple of ideas here too – every dog learns a bit differently. As you are getting ready, make sure the target is the last thing that happens. What I mean by that is: get one cookie into your hand, get yourself in the position your want to be in (sitting on the floor, for example), then when everything is ready: put the target down in front of her. That should immediately draw her attention to it. What are you using for the foot target?
When she even looks towards it: put the cookie right on it. Don’t reward from your hand. Then if she moves towards it more (sniffs it, paws it, etc) put another cookie on it.
While this is happening… you are not moving at all 🙂 If you move, she is going to be watching you. So you will want to be completely stationary and just looking at the target.
If she is still not entirely sure about interacting with it, you can put the target down and immediately put a cookie on it, to draw her focus to it. The pick it up, count to 3 in your head… then put it down and put another cookie on it. Do that 4 or 5 times in a row. Then pick it up, put it back down, but don’t immediately put the cookie on it – wait to see if she looks at it or moves towards it. Then you can put the cookie on it 🙂
That can all load the target with so much value that it will be easier to build up more.
>We haven’t started on the nose touch thing yet because she hasn’t connected the dots on the first assignment/game.>>
Each game is different, so you don’t need to wait til one is perfect before starting the other one. You can start the 2nd one and see how it goes!
>>When working on the “get it target” and Sadie sits and stares at me waiting for the treat (with laser focus and nothing will distract her) should I focus on her and repeat the “get it” or sit quiet looking at the target or Sadie? I am trying so hard to get this and it’s not working. She’s a smart dog but there’s a disconnect here somewhere.>>
Sit quietly, get yourself into position, don’t say anything – then put the target down and look it (not at Sadie). And you can also try to look at it and put a cookie on it immediately to help jump start the behavior.
>>I’m feeling behind and think we might be a hopeless cause.
You aren’t behind at all! The class doesn’t even officially start for another 4.5 hours 🙂 We will get it sorted out!
Keep me posted!
Tracy
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
>>Should I repeat these exercises using your feedback or incorporate your feedback in upcoming assignment?>>
We are building on the foot target tonight, so no need to repeat it – you can add on the new stuff.
We don’t add anything to the hand target for a couple more weeks, so you can do another session or two but no rush on that one – we build on it in week 3 🙂
Tracy
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi! It is a Farmdog Festival here!!! So fun!!!! Great to see you and Checkers!!!!
The funny thing here is a lot of Danika
s videos with Taq were from her laundry room, so it cracked me up to see the laundry machines behind you here LOL!!He is looking great! His foot smacks to the target are *ADORABLE*! You can replace the clicker with the ‘get it’ marker that you were using – when he smacks the target, say ‘get it’ and throw the treat. That can make it easier for you (you won’t need 3 hands :)) and it will keep him looking forward at the target even more. We build on this game tonight!
For the hand targeting – you were amazing about getting your hand REALLY LOW (I am impressed with your flexibility and a little jealous LOL!)
He is hitting beautifully. You can drop the clicker from this one too, because he is wanting to hit and look up at you, which is when he is hearing the click (by the time his brain processes it :)) so you can use your get it marker here too to mark the moment he hits then toss the treat.
And I loved how he got back onto the toy at the end of both sessions – super! You can tie the toy to another toy so it becomes really long. Then you can drag it around and be more upright (and eventually moving more) and he can still tug with his head nice and low.
Great job here!!!!
Tracy
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHello and welcome!!! Terriers are brilliant and Border Terriers are extra cute as well 🙂 Have fun and keep me posted!!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi! She totally had a growth spurt even since I’ve seen her!!! She is lovely <3
This session went really well - nice work both having the target out away from your torso, and waiting til she had found her treats before you presented it again for the next rep. That make it more salient and so she had a lot more success. Yay! As you put it out to the side, you can also look at it - shifting your gaze to it will help her shift her gaze to it as well.
The next step will be to have you do this with you sitting in a chair or on something elevated but low enough that she can still easily reach the target while keeping her front feet on the ground. We don't 'use' this behavior for a couple more weeks, so no rush to do that as you are about to get bombarded with other things to do LOL!
Great job here!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterOMG! Maybe she has some whippet in her? They can be vocally dramatic LOL!!! But that is perfectly fine, I like for dogs to be communicative 🙂
Tracy
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
>> I’ve been reading and watching and do understand the value – just haven’t made myself use them yet! I trust you’ll keep reminding me 🙂>>
Yes 🙂 We add them early on in small doses, mainly to train the humans 🙂
>>She’s SO eager to “do stuff” and is more confident than any dog we’ve had in many years.>>
That is awesome! I have found the field bred cockers to be happy dogs that just love love love to do whatever we would like them to do. Super fun!!!!
>>She does get scared/startled occasionally (and when it happens everyone in the world can hear her!), but she recovers really quickly.>>
That is pretty normal – the resilience games will help that for sure.
>> And, she thinks the entire world and all the people in it are just here for her – a trait I admire in any dog 🙂>>
She is so cute and charming, that it is easy to admire her!
>> Most importantly to me…..we are successfully switching back and forth between toy and food!>>
Perfect! We will protect that for sure 🙂
>
> OMG she is so cute and your yard is gorgeous! Feel free to post these happy-making videos any time!!!! Especially that joyous leap at the end 🙂
I am excited to see more of Jett!
Tracy
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterSkizzle is so adorable!!! He did a great job with the nose target! He had to process a little with Miss Ada supervising but he worked through it really well!
The next step to this would be to do it with you sitting in a chair, so we starting moving you off the ground but still keeping the target low enough that he can hit it.
And yes, add the get it marker (adding it this early is partially to train us humans LOL!!)
>>>Do you mean mat work where he gets on a mat to relax?
Yes – to relax, or as a place to wait – though that is already morphing into lying down on the mat, enough that this foot-touch can be different.>>If he thinks the prop and the mat might be too similar (he starts offering relaxing on the prop :)) then you can change the prop to something silly that is unrelated, like a shoe or hat or something. He is very clever and it won’t take long at all to transfer the value to something that is not mat-like 🙂
Great job!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterWelcome home! Baby Storm looks great!!
He did great here, sorting out the targeting! He was trying to figure out eactly what to do with the hat 🙂 To get more smacking of the hat target, 2 ideas for you:
– start each session by having everything ready (treats, your position, puppy, etc) then as the last thing… place the hat down. He will of course be drawn to it, which will give you a good jump start for the first reward.
– then first few rewards can be delivered right on the hat rather than tossed to the side. Then you can do a reset cookie with a get it marker, and click/place the cookie right on the hat. When you see him driving back to smack it very distinctly, then you can fade out placing the treat right on the hat and use a ‘get it’ marker to toss each reward.
Great job here!!! I am excited to see more of him here and in person!!
Tracy
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHello and welcome! I am excited to see you here! My first agility dogs were Dalmatians (Pierce and Samson) so the breed holds a special place in my heart!
Nils is gorgeous!!! He is a fantastic worker and I agree, he has huge potential for agility and the other sports you are planning.
He definitely loves his toy – you can tie a few toys together to get one longer toy (or buy a longer toy LOL!) because he wanted to tug but was being extra careful about your hands, so was backing off the tugging. That is very polite of him to care about your flesh LOL!! A longer toy will help him get into the game without any accidental hand grabbing.
The hand targeting is looking great – he will drive to it more directly if you look at the target and not at his cute face 🙂 When you looked at him, he tends to look back at you so shifting your gaze to the target should shift his focus to it as well.
The only other thing to add for now is a marker for the tossed treat – I say ‘get it’ which means “that is correct, the treat is being thrown”. It helps us build up the marker to use in other situations as well.
The foot targeting is also going super well! You probably don’t need the mouth click and the yes – you can use just the get it because that covers both bases.
Great job on these! I am excited to see him build on them!
Tracy
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