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Hi!
The lazy game on wing at the beginning looks good! You can add bars to the jumps and work in more distance between the jumps, so she commits to the line more without you having to run in close to the jumps đ
One steps sends – she knows the wraps on the wings if you move a lot⌠so now we can add challenge and expand her commitment skills by taking out your motion and adding more distance too. For the purposes of this game, you can hang out at the tunnel exit, make connection, and send her to the wrap wing with one big step.
A good example of the one big step is at 1:15, that was a really strong one! On that rep, you were maybe halfway between the tunnel exit and the wing, so you can add in being at the tunnel exit to build more distance.
And remember to emphasize your exit line connection. When you finish the crosses, point your dog-side arm back to her to really open up the connection, rather than have your arm at your side. Without the big exit line connection, she might not know where to be: at 1:20, you disconnected and looked ahead of her to the tunnel so she only saw your back. It totally looked like a blind cross, so she changed sides (GOOD GIRL!) Definitely reward her in those moments because there is a 99.99% chance it is a handler error and not a dog error đ You mentioned in the video that you didnât connect⌠but you should still reward her because otherwise it is like telling her she is wrong for a behavior she was reading correctly.
You had much clearer connection at 1:37 and she easily knew where to be. Super!
>>I have trained the teeter but would love to increase her speed so any help with that is appreciated.
We can totally look at that! On the video, she is slowing down at the pivot and stopping a bit short on her end position. So rather than keep working the full teeter, you will get ore speed if you isolate the behaviors with the games. This weekâs mountain climber game will get her driving to the end of the board without stopping or slowing in the middle. And in upcoming weeks, we will be adding end position games so she goes directly into her position at the end of the board, no hesitating đ So rather that rehearsing the slower behavior, letâs break the different elements out, get them super solid, then put it all back together into a really fast teeter đ
She is doing well with the RDW mat work! The 2 thinks I suggest for that are:
– Give her a straighter angle of approach so she can get her striding bigger on the up ramp. This was very angled and she had to add more strides than we want at this stage.
– Have the reward reward so you can get it to her on the line before she looks you. Head position is important on the RDW and looking a you will change the striding.>>I will be away a few weeks in July but will catch up when I return, I hope this is ok.>>
No problem! You will have plenty of time to catch up.
Great job here!
TracyHi!
>>she has more space, equipment and yells at me when I take the easy way or dont reward enougnâŚ>>
Yes, I heard her yelling at you to reward đ and that is great!
It is a little hard to se in the shade so apologies if I miss details on the runs, but two main things:
She doesnât really understand the threadle cues if you are moving⌠and we do want you to be able to move. I think you were trying to stop her and reward her for coming into you for the threadle here, but there are 2 issues with that:
– She doesnât find stopping to be rewarding, even with the food– It is causing you to stop moving when you really need to keep moving (and we need her to read the cues when you keep moving)
When you tried to keep moving on the last run, she didnât get the threadle.
So, rather than stop and give her a cookie, try staying in motion and giving a BIG threadle cue: very obvious arm movement, connection, and verbals.
Start by walking on just one jump, then 2 jumps, then 3 jumps. Then go to jogging, then running – we definitely donât want you to have to stop moving to get the threadle, as that will get you way behind for the next part of the course.And yes, keep moving even if there is an error, finish the sequence, then reward (rather than stopping or starting over). On the 2nd video – she had zoomies over the obstacles when you didnât reward her. That is probably similar to what happens at trials, so we donât want either of you to get into the habit of stopping (or zooming :))
2nd rep was better on the 2nd video was definitely better – you were moving better and that always helps her! Nice!!!
On the 3rd video – she was able to get this without you moving too much, yay! The only error was when you tripped and almost fell (glad you didnât fall!)â¨
But I think we need to get the handling communication happening in the way you will need it on course at a trial where you are running (and not standing still nearly as much).
So with that in mind, take all of these sequences and spread them out as much as possible, so you need to run (and cannot get them without running :)). That will help us sort out what she knows when you are in motion, and what she needs to learn, and what your timing needs to be!So spread things out sooooo much that you cannot stand still at all (sorry!) and we can really practice for what she will need at a trial.
Nice work here!!
â¨TracyHi!
>>I am quite enjoying these although Maisy resents doing all those startlines.
Ha! Sorry Maisy (not sorry LOL!!!)
>>She has an uncanny ability to pull off things which makes it all a bit harder to get ahead and get the blind in. That pink jump before the tunnel is our nemesis.>>
There was one pull-off in the video, and it was because you were too early on the cue for the next line (see below). Feel free to put more bloopers into the video so we can see where she has questions!
>>Her eyes flicker back and forth between me and the jump. Often she does not move her head so I take what I can get.>>
That is fine! I will take that acknowledgment! She doesnât have to turn and stare at the jump.
But if she drops the bar on 1 (:04, :22), I would consider stopping and resetting there, so she considers organizing a bit better before takeoff. You can help her with the bar on 1 by setting her another meter or so further away so she has more room to organize, and setting up her stay with her feet facing the bar (not parallel to the bar) so she has a better approach.
Seq 4:
Keeping moving on the 2-3-4 line. When you did, she had lovely jumping! When you were a bit stop-and-go, she dropped the ba on 3 (:13)Good :24! Keep trusting the line 2-3 so you can start the cross even sooner, so she sees it before takeoff for 3
Seq 5:
She was correct to *not* take 2 at :47 – you were too early on the BC by turning your shoulders away from 2 as she landed then then starting the BC. You can maintain connection as you move forward til she looks at 2, then start the blind. The timing was much better at :52 and she committed really well and turned nicely too! Great job sending her to the 4 tunnel so you could easily get the backside after it!Seq 6: very nice opening on the first run! On the 2nd run, it looks like she didnât look at the first bar at all? She still found the line and jumped it really well!
Stay more connected at 1:10 and 1:40 (backside on 4) – she brushed the wing as you started to turn you head and shoulders to look forward.Her drive to the tunnel looked great, you will easily be able to layer that line!
Great job :)⨠Let me know what you think!
TracyHi!
>>So when training the distance you said to reward far away, do you mean like throw her ball before the obstacle I am trying to get? >>
Yes, a ball or toy or lotus ball can all work: as soon as she looks at the line you want, throw the reward so it lands out past the jump. And keep throwing for different parts of the line so it really pumps up her commitment.
>>Is this also a commitment problem?
I am not sure I would call it a problem, but it is definitely a skill to expand on because it is becoming a really common course challenge! And it helps getting big lines on course even without layering.
Looking at the video⌠I thnk you were over-helping on the lines too much, running really close to each jump. That put her into collection which made it even harder to get the lines.
On the 1-2-3-4 line, see if you can send her to 1 and 2 so you can to a FC or BC 2-3, and run run run. She should be able to find those lines and if she canât, it is good to know so we can teach her to see them.
The 4-5-6-7 line is perfect to try layering! And it is a good place for lots of toy throws out on the line, to get her driving the line. That will make getting the 8-9-10 line easier too – I think the cross before the 9 tunnel made getting the 10 jump harder. If you keep her on your right for the 9 tunnel, then you can get 10 with a rear cross pretty easily.
So, try to drive her more! Donât worry about working each jump, think of it as setting lines and trusting her!
Also think about setting the fastest lines for her – so if you ever find yourself backing up, you are probably not setting the fastest line. For example, looking at the 13 jump after the weaves: you can let her exit the weaves in extension and go to the other side of the jump, then slice the jump to have a straight line on landing to the tunnel. You moved backwards to bring her into the harder side of 13 which made the exit to the tunnel extra hard too.
>>. I was super proud of her weavers tho!
Yes, she was great with her weaves! The pole required that they get set on a harder angle and she was great! Yay!
Nice work here! Let me know what you think!
Tracy
Hi! Lots of really lovely work here!!
Wow, her focus on the toy looked great! You can apply that to a jump by putting the toy on the other side of it – it might help her like stay behavior better in the higher arousal situations!
The opening looked good and the start of the layering did too, both times through there!! You should totally layer that whole line from 4 through 8!
The handler restriction of the 3 jump caused a little too much decel at :51, and then pushed you to get the off course at 1:57 – so as you move there, you would need a tunnel threadle cue so it overrides the motion. Or, layer that 3 jump as you head for the 10 jump đ The tunnel threadle is what you used at 2:13, but you can do it sooner (starting at landing from 7) to help her organize sooner to keep the bar up
I think the RC on 10 is the best option on that line! Remember to keep your feet facing the center of the bar to set it: you had your feet facing the a-frame (backside line) too long at :55 so she had to cut in at the last minute and dropped the bar. She got it on the next run, but definitely keep working for feet to the center of the bar as we donât want to dilute the feet facing the backside line for when you need a backside.
Super excellent weave entry and exit, wow! She found the entry AND stayed in, weaving into the gate, while you layered to get the the threadle. Nice! She popped out on the 2nd run, maybe because people were moving?
The RC on 15 was nice at 1:07 but doesnât get you to be able to show 16 – standing still started to bring her in but then when you moved, you pushed her back to the off course tunnel.
Plenty of time to get the BC there ad you did on the last rep – nice! Then the FC works to show 16, but be sure to finish the FC rather than back up pulling her in before finishing it – that way you can get the correct side of 16 very easily.
Nice work here!! Let me know what you think!
TracyGood morning! Both of the dogs looked great in class last night, even with the kitten distractions!!
>>Since I can guarantee I will not post anywhere near as much video as I should, I will post both on the pieces I get to unless it is something I am likely to work (and actually video and post more than once>>
Perfect! Since you always have leftover time for posting, feel free to post as much as you like, donât worry about over-posting đ We are flexible with the posting because we want everyone to get as much time on the video as possible!
Nice work with Arram here!! The opening went well! He was definitely looking at the environment a bit but found the line really well. I was happy with that you did on the start line: got a little bit of a stay then giddy up, off to the races đ That continues to build up the stay but also doesnât push it to a stress point, so he looked pretty happy on the release!
He needed a slightly earlier turn cue for 2 to land him looking at 3: partially because it is a natural backside line, partially because he was looking at the environment a bit. I think all he needs for now would be a name call when he is about halfway between 1 and 2. That will change (and become earlier :)) as he get more experienced.
>>Also I beat myself up plenty for stopping during his run.
Yes, I could see your thought bubble in that moment of âwhy did I stop?â But he came pretty quickly AND he worked the next sequence with even more speed and focus. It was as if the little break in engagement and stress moment gave him a chance to investigate the environment (and work out any concerns).
The backside to the blind with the tunnel right there looked awesome!!
That 2nd run looked terrific and I loved the LONG tug session followed by cookies, followed by being done. YAY!!!
Lannaâs turn also looked really good! She was smiling at her paparazzi on the start a little but she held her stay and found the line. You can play with getting her to look at the jump when you get to a less distracting environment – I am happy with her stay here and line finding, even with human and kitten distractions đ
Because she is an agility professional, she totally read the line to the backside on 3 on the first rep, good girl! (That is a hidden hot topic: Natural backside lines when we need the front side, stay tuned for more of those!)
The in in on the 2nd and 3rd runs got the correct side of 3 for sure – you can call her when she is halfway between 1 and 2 to get her turning over 2, which will make the line 2-3 even smoother. And, if she is already turning to the line, you wonât have to rotate your feet on the in in, which will get you further ahead on the backside #4 jump. That can also you to get a BC on the takeoff side of 4, which can prove useful if you have someplace crazy to get to after the exit of the 6 tunnel (going to takeoff side of 4 puts you further ahead on the 5-6 line).
The RC on 5 worked well – on the first run you ran a good RC line but donât say Go because she was looking straight (use a left turn cue instead). On the 2nd run there, you almost pushed her off and you said tunnel, but then you caught yourself and kept gong and she got it right (continuing through little bobbles like that is GREAT because it is helpful for dealing with little bobbles at trials!)
Nice work here! Let me know what you think!
TracyGood morning!
>>Pop out 1 Mookie ran it nicely X2â¨Alonso also did well but tended to land out wider. The jumps were probably closer then shown but it worked well and was good training for Alonso to learn to stay in closer.>>
For the wide landings – it might be that he needs earlier cues, or that he might need a brake arm on some of those turns! We worked brake arms in the live class last night, I will be posted it as soon as it loads! I will send an email when it is all posted đ
â¨>> Great practice for a slice start. I could stand between jump 2 & 3 for Mookie. I had to keep my arms low or he would have taken the backside of 5 >>
Good catch about the potential backside – we see lots of that nowadays: the dogs see the backside line so we have to pull them into. The front side.
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â¨>>For Alonso I could stand between 2 and 3 for the slice start but more behind the jumps and not in line with them as I could with my old boy. >>He will sort it out with more experience! He is doing really well!
>Alonso knocked the bar for a back side blind 6 to 7 but kept it up second run as I got it together with him. I then practiced backside blinds in both directions for both boys.>>
Great! Those are really hard jumping efforts so practicing will help Alonso sort out his mechanics while he is also watching the mechanics. Mookie used to have the same questions (years ago!) but I think he is all grown up now and knows everything! Yay!
>>As for Alonsoâs start line stays at a real trial this past weekend, he did well the first time in the ring. However, the second time in the ring he glazed over and it was really hard to get him to do his set up which is to go between my legs and lie down.>>
You probably need to play around with different âtoolsâ on the way to the start line: first run of the day might be easiest for him, mentally. Then you might need to add more play and tricks to get him more ready before later runs. Or a different toy or treat. It is all about managing arousal and bandwidth, so try to experiment with different things.
For example, play pattern games outside the ring when he is waiting. Then when the dog before him is running, try some tricks to get him moving and engaged! Then run to the line and see if he can get right into his setup. Keep track of what works or doesnât work, based on how he responds and how the run goes. It is a definite learning curve with young dogs!
>> What do you suggest if he is so glazed that he is frozen in a stand stay. Should I take him out of the ring or accept the stand stay and try to lead out.>>
Honestly, if my dog was unable to sit but was able to hold a stand stay, I would lead out and start the run and see how it goes. Taking him out of the ring might create frustration (it is a punishment!) so I am happy to get feedback from the dog (âMom this is HARD, I canât sit!â) and then try the run, then try other things at the line or outside the ring to see how he does.
Have fun! Keep me posted!
Tracy
Hi! This is very cool to see!!!
I’m not surprised – the faster line has fewer turns, so once he finishes 2 it is basically a speed circle for him.He did well with the German turn (another benefit is that we handlers can run full tilt through them if the dog understands the commitment and countermotion). But you can also lead out to threadle position – he knows that move too and I’m sure it would be super fast too!
Tracy
We can definitely build up more theeadle skills this summer, they’ll come in handy on course for sure!
>>In sequence 3, is jump 3 a backside wrap, or is a backside wrap when you completely circle the wing?>>
They enter and exit on the same wing there, so the wrap cue (to get lots of collection) is likely better than the slice cue with big, fast dogs.
Tracy
Hi!
I see what you mean, she definitely has a harder time on that side!
Try two things:– lead out further so the toy is further past the jump when she is jumping them. Trying starting 10 feet past the 2nd jump and see how it goes!
– overlap the middle wings by about 6 inches and see if that helps! It is possible that the distance is awkward so shortening it can really help.
Let me know how it goes!
TracyHi!
He might have thought it was a little odd đ but he did well! And yes, it seems like the hardest part was eating the treat fast and not sniffing for more.It is entirely possible that the treat was actually too high in value and was getting “lost” in the yummy scent! What is visible for throwing but less exciting than Fresh Pet… String cheese maybe? Or you can throw a lotus ball and re-load it between reps too.
I think after a night’s sleep, you can try it and if he is happy with it, you can do it again with a little more distance and rewarding after every 2 or 3 jumps.
Nice work!!!
TracyHello and welcome back!!!
She did great here, finding her jumps! Yay!!! She seemed a little more comfy doing it on your left side (turning to her right) so it is possible that the right turns will progress more quickly than left turns. This is normal đ
My only suggestion is to rotate the middle jump 90 degrees, so the bar is perpendicular to the other 2 bars (not parallel to them). This will set up. A classic pinwheel. And you can start to do 2 jumps in a row before rewarding – keep moving and see if she can find them.
Great job!
TracyTotally agree, she takes her time savoring the treats LOL!!!! But this was a good session: she kept finding the jumps until you tossed the treat, then found them again after eating it đ Just remember to keep moving when you throw it between jumps 2 and 3, even if you are moving slowly đ
Great job!
TracyHi! Lots of lovely work here, she is SO FUN!!
She did well looking at jump 1 and I think the forward focus here was very helpful! It took her a moment to “find” 1 on the first rep and also at 1:45, then she locked on nicely and produced a great jumping effort and lovely lines! Sending her from your side on the other angle at :39 was actually a harder turn (she feel on her head then dropped 2). Tighter is not better, in this case.
she had some questions on the layering line at first at :21 – and did much better with adding motion on the 2nd rep! The more you can move up the line, the easier it is to get the threadle.
>>That threadle at 7 was kicking our butt.>>
It was built a little harder, but that is fine because it opens up two things that I think are important!
First, cues and timing:
At :45 and 1:52, she needs a turn cue on 6 to set up the threadle. She wasn’t really turning on 6 and threadle is more of a line cue than a turn cue – so a turn cue like a left or her name to get her turning on 6 will make a world of difference. And that turn cue starts no later than landing of 5: you would be running towards 7 and cuing the turn. Then when she approaches 6 and is turning, you would be giving the threadle in in cue (without having to stop moving).
At 2;33 you started the in in as she was landing from 5 which is correct timing, but I think in in is not the desired cue in this case… because in theory with that timing, the in in should apply to 6 not 7. And that might be why it was so hard to get teh threadle on 7 initially, because she has learned to apply threadle info a jump later than it is given or intended for. So a turn cue for the jump before the threadle, and the threadle cue for the actual threadle jump should make a huge difference in her being able to get the threadles consistently.
The other thing I see here as I am getting to know her a bit:
Her focus is split in trainng and I think she has part of her mind on the toy on the ground somwhere outside the ring, plus she doesn’t get rewarded near you – so her thoughts are all about staying out somewhere on the big line. Yes, you had her do hand touches but that is not really a reward then she drives to get the toy outside the ring somewhere. You can still leave a toy outside the ring, but have one in your pocket as well so you can reward up close on tighter lines as well, to help build more quick responsiveness to turn cues. The split focus in training might also be part of why she is different in trials (she is never sent from the course to go get her toy at high speed in trials, so arousal and processing states are different).
She did well finding 8 after you supported it from 7 and added a little more movement to help support the bar (it is a hard angle!)
The 9-10-11-12 is looking good! Keep facing straight to the weave entry until she is in it -it is a hard entry especially with the off course jump right there, so many dogs come off that line if we turn too soon.
At 1:14, you handled 13 as a threadle and I love that plan! Stay in the threadle position until she turns her head to the jump. You don’t need to move across the line parallel to the bar, you just want to stay where you were til she turns her head to the bar. You left a as she rounded the wing but she had not yet turned to look at the jump, so she came off the line. As she gets more experienced with threadles, you won’t have to wait for the head turn – but even with letting her turn her head to it before you go, you will have plenty of time to get to the next line.
Rear crossing 15 would likely require a lot of decel then RC 16, and that is fine. you’ll still get the ending line nicely! She got the off course there when you were accelerating through the RC on 15 (1:21)
Nice work here! I am glad Puddin’ also did well!!! Let me know what you think!
Tracy
