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Hi! I am glad you are liking the break week – hopefully it gives everyone more time without feeling the pressure of trying to get it all done in a short timeframe.
Your exit line connection looked perfect on both videos here! Super nice!!! You can let her chase you to get the toy reward so you can see her exit line as well.
Building up to the serps where you need to be even further ahead so you can pass the exit wing to set up the wrap exit:
You can get more distance on the commitment to the wing send by looking at her more directly as you send. If you are looking forward to the wing, she looks at you a little (like at :03 and :28 of the first video) and waits til you are closer to the wing to commit.And for the serp cue, especially when she is on your left – you can have your arm fully extending away from your torso, perpendicular to it – and that way as you pass the jump, you can have your shoulders facing the jump bar more and it will be even easier to shift your connection to the landing spot.
Great job here!!
TracyHi!
She transitioned to the wing really easily! Yay! And doing it with the toy was great too 🙂 You can add in the turn and burn as the next step and then we will transition the other games over to the wing.
The Minny Pinny is looking good and I think the Say verbal is a great choice!! She did well with the skill – you can add little things t o go over like half-pool-noodles to act like bars. She definitely had opinions about her collar being held or being moved by the collar. So, keep collar holding separate from the games for now and from tugging. Separately, you can build up the line up and collar hold with food which she seems to always be happy with 🙂 Use a cookie lure to line her up at your side. Then take her collar and immediately throw a cookie to let her get it. That can start to build up the line up and collar hold in a fun way but with no other contingencies required.
I am glad the choose your own adventure went so well!
>>even if she wanted to switch midway since I hadn’t put the other toys up>>
This is fine for her to do 🙂 and far better than the other options she could have chosen! Plus, they were kind of on her path there, so it was fine to do a switcherroo.
>>Had a moment near the end where I had gone on too long and she threw in a leap>>
Yes, set a timer for these sessions or limit to a set # of reps because the toy play is more physically and mentally expensive for her… so she is more likely to lose steam after a minute or so.
About the leap – it was a little later in the session and it looked like she didn’t like the push back at around 2:50. Plus, the visual of the toy dangling might have been hard for her (the wing is new so not as much value for ignoring the toy?).On the backside video – Yes, she made it pretty clear that it was cheese as the reinforcement LOL! If you want a toy only session, the cheese probably has to be in a different room.
The backsides looked really good here! And adding in the stays was lovely too!
>>Should I have used the lala to release her from her sit? I wasn’t sure she knew it enough to feel it was a release so used break.>>
She probably doesn’t know it as a release yet, but you can add it: as you start moving up the line, start the Lala then if she doesn’t move, say the release. The Lala will soon come to predict the release, so it will then become the release 🙂
Great job here!
TracyHi!
This session went really well! He definitely liked the toy and you set up the session so he had a lot of success. Yay! Only one suggestion:
On the backside cue, try to move to where the PVC meets the barrel so he sees the full barrel like you did at :56. You were sometimes moving to the outer edge of the barrel which blocked it a little.>>The east – west front feet bother me more than I thought they would.>>
I think he can play agility, no problem! A lower jump height might help for a longer career, but there are plenty of opportunities to let him run at a lower height and still be very competitive and have fun 🙂
Nice job here!
TracyHi!
>>Planning on using this to shape jumping into progressing smaller crates for her upcoming flight!>>Great idea! You can shape her to run into her flight bag!!!
Sorry about the rain – you are getting crazy weather!
The threadle and serp game is looking good! On the threadles, remember to keep your shoulders open and facing the bar until after she is at the reward. If you close your shoulders before then, you might inadvertently cue her to go past the bar (like at :24). Keeping the shoulders facing the bar even as you move will help cue it – otherwise you will end up staying there managing the bar.
Fingers crossed for good weather ahead!!! Nice work here!!
TracyGood morning!
>>
There are so many things I want to work on but I am trying not to overwelm West>>This is so true: so many things! But he is like a sponge and learns really quickly. So, taking your time to work the little pieces will all come together nicely!
>>– West had a very hard time working with me holding a toy at agility – kept grabbing it when it moved>>
Something like when you were cuing a wrap, he would jump up at your hand with the toy in it?
>>– Discussion was on me being more consistent in using “get it” or “tug” when he is meant to take the toy, >>Yes – saying a marker will help a lot! I have also found that agility dogs jump up at the toy in our hand when the connection is not as clear a they need it to be, so adding more direct eye contact into the cue makes a massive difference. If you have a video clip, feel free to post it so we can see if it was connection or not.
>> I was thinking about flyball recalls where I call his name and run holding a toy and he is supposed to grab it>>
We don’t get the confusion in the flyball-style recalls because the context is soooooo different looking: in the recalls, the toy should be long and dragging on the ground, which is permission to grab it 🙂 Yes, you can totally use a marker (get it) but the position and use of the toy is so completely different that we don’t see any confusion from the dogs. For my baby whippet, for example, he is training in both sports. If the toy is in my hand, he doesn’t grab for it until I say “bite” or throw it with a “get it”. And then on a recall, if I cam dragging a long toy on the ground as I run away, he goes for the toy. This can happen in the same session in a flyball session (I can’t think of a single time in agility where I would run away dragging a toy on the ground where I want the dog to ignore the toy…)
>>– Do you do anything specific to try to avoid that kind of confusion or do you find it sort of works itself out with context>>Context-dependent learning is very powerful so there has been zero confusion with the flyball recalls versus toy in hand (or placed toy on the ground) for other skills games. Adding a marker doesn’t hurt, but the context is doing all of the work 🙂
The ball retrieving looks really good!!! I see a future flyball dog! The food to line him up was definitely a good idea 🙂 When you say he was not as interested in the ball when the food came out: it looks like he was still going to it, maybe he had some moments of not going to it as well? And you can use food, a ball, and the toy in the same session: food line up, ball retrieve, toy reward 🙂 But for flyball, the ball should be a little lower in value than the food or toy especially here at the beginning stages, so it is fine that he liked the food or toy a little better 🙂 It is MUCH easier to train flyball if the ball is just a behavior and not the most beloved thing ever 🙂
Great job here!
TracyGood morning!
>>I think my tremendous performance anxiety is kicking in. I find it hard in public (which doesn’t actually include places like classes and seminars, where I CAN be loud and crazy, but actual PUBLIC with lots of people around) to be as animated as I want to be. Does that make sense?
Totally makes sense! You can start the tugging a far away from the people as you want to be, so you can be comfy with it! That will be good for him too 🙂 Then as you both get more comfy with it, you can move it closer to the ring 🙂
He did well on the tunnel video and was also very adorable 🙂
On the left turns at the beginning, he was very strong with the cue until you got to be a little past halfway back on the tunnel. That was where he had some questions (after :30 approx) becaue the other end other tunnel was visually in the picture.
He had a couple of errors (2 failure rule!) so you made it easier by moving closer to the tunnel entry. That was great! After an error, though, you can immediately call him back to a line up with a cookie, to reset and so he doesn’t get frustrated with being told he is wrong (and then offer a bunch of extra tunnels).
The only thing I would add on these left turns is to start saying the verbal 2 or 3 times before you let him start moving, so the verbal can get really attached to the behavior.
When he has had a session when the 2 failure rule as been invoked, it is useful to end on the success and not re-attempt the hard stuff or switch sides. You can see how he had a couple of errors in the session then kind of checked out a little. The reset cookies after an error will help too!
>>He had a significantly harder time turning right into the tunnel than turning left. I have been thinking he’s a right turner, but maybe not?>>
It might have been that it was the end of the session, and it might have been that you were angled very differently than you were on the left turns. On the left turns, it looked like you had him at your side and your were both facing the direction you wanted him to move On t he right turn reps, it looks like you were more sideways and starting to rotate away, which might have confused him. Try it by lining up the same way you did on the other side and see if it helps him find the right turns more easily.
The Minny Pinny looked good too! Try to say the verbals a few times before you let him go – so he hears it 3 or 4 times then you let go (to help attach the verbals better without any motion needed :)) As you work these, try to be consistent in how you deliver the verbals: the rhythm and tone will help him learn them. You were sometimes doing a short choppy word “rightright” and sometimes a single longer word “riiight”. I think the slower longer word will be a good choice because you can then make is sound really different from wrap verbals.
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi!
>>What does a “little play” mean? I feel like she isn’t super into any of the little games I’ve attempted recently.>>
Just having her chase your hands for treats, short bursts running back and forth, seeing if she wants to chase a toy you throw or slide around… all without worrying too much how her interest in the toy or food compares to her interest at home. It is not likely to be the same, so it is fine to let it build up over time like it did at home too.
>>And for tunnels, I’m unsure if I should reward with toy or food? The first few rentals she was really excited about chasing down the toy out of tunnels, but now not so much. So I guess I should use food?>>
You can let her give you in-the-moment feedback on that. Before starting, toss out a couple of toys and see if she chooses one. And if so, throw it after the tunnel. If not, use really high value food (rotisserie-chicken-level value).
>>I think I keep trying to change things because she isn’t into what she seemed to work before. She is unpredictable to me so I don’t know what to do.>>
I think putting criteria on engagement might be making it too hard right now, because it adds pressure to you both when you try for more engagement with you or the food or toy. Her brain will be split trying to process input from the environment as well as play the games, so it is fine if it is good engagement even if it is not the same as at home.
>>I think what’s throwing me is that we had some really great rentals in this location where she seemed into the reinforcement, games and work, but now not so much. And that makes sense with her being a teenager and the space changes (different visual, smells, etc.), but I’m unsure how to respond to that.>>
Jut keep reminding yourself that development and training is not linear and some days will be different than others… and it is all good 🙂 Short blast easy stuff in new places is the way to go! And lots of little breaks.
>>Yes! I’ve taught her to put her head through like a slip lead, but I think she needs more practice in new environments before I can ask her to do it here.>>
Keeping the power of rehearsals in mind… if she is avoiding getting the leash on, I would bump the leash on skill to the top of the list in new places so she does not rehearse avoiding the leash going back on. Make it easier than it is at home, starting from square on – but definitely add in some shaping of the leash on so her history in the new places is more about the leash on and to avoiding.
>>This is what I tried to do at this most recent rental because our last one she wasn’t super into the work.
Can you flesh that out a little bit more so I have a better idea of what to do? >>I think when she was not as int the food or toys, you ramped up the running/throwing more than you needed to. You can settle things down more in terms of excitement level when things are hard for whatever reason, and also keep yourself very predictable. Throw a cookie a couple of feet, let her eat it, let her look at you, do a quick recall. That is very predictable like at home, which makes it easier to process in a new environment. If you throw the cookie really far and run really really far, she has to find you which is actually a little harder to process. It is definitely a less-is-more process 🙂
On the videos:
>>I’m not sure if I’m doing the collar hold/amp up part right, she doesn’t seem to be excited, but maybe she needs more repetition with it? >>
She did well with being held! Ideally, we want the pups to be still but with some muscle tension (not flailing or pulling on the collar) and then when you let go, they should move forward immediately. That is exactly what she did! And it will be even better if she gets happier to grab a dead toy:
>>But dead toy has never been as exciting as moving toy for her so it’s understandable.>>
This is something to work on at home so it becomes a stronger reinforcement strategy. You can do it with more focus forward games using this collar hold, where you throw it and let it land, then let her get it when it is ‘dead’.
Her wraps went well, so keep adding the collar hold and you can start to gradually add more distance away from the wing.
The serps with motion went well too! The threadle session on the last video went really well too, so for both of these skills: You can keep adding more motion, very gradually, and you can try showing her serps and threadles with motion in th same session. IT will be easy if your release positions are very clear: before the entry wing for the threadles, when you are across the bar nearer the exit wing for the serps.
>>And some tugging after where I sound downright possessed lol>>Ha! You sounded totally fine to me 🙂 LOL!
Stays looked great too! You can practice incorporating the jump but moving nearer to it as you lead out, stepping over the ‘bar’ 🙂 and basically playing the same exact game (maybe making the lead outs shorter and rewards faster at first) but with the jump in the picture. That will help bridge the gap to building the stay and fading out the Cato plank.
Nice work here!
TracyGood morning!
>>So guessing all that and the new space was the driving factor in why she was so leapy with the toy.>>
Yes – processing the new environment and processing the toy was probably not easy enough, so you can bring her into new environments on food and when she has experienced that environment multiple times (over several different visits) you can try to add toys.
Speaking of toys:
You are asking her *if* she wants to play with a toy… but maybe the better question is *which* toy she wants to play with (the answer can of course be ‘none of the above’ sometimes too).To help her out with the pop rocks behavior, you can do “choose your adventure” with her before training sessions – bringing out 4 or 5 toys that she has been interested in before, you can dump them on the floor and sit with her to ask her to choose which one she wants. You can just show them or tap them or slide them around or throw them a little – let her sort through them without any training or contingency or interaction. It is pretty fun to watch the pups decide which toy they want and they can then train for it after than have chosen. Try this at home first and see what she says about it.
I do this a lot at home or in different places, before I try to train anything – it gives the pups a lot of agency and input, and has worked out really well!
The recalls looked really good! And she did enjoy the frisbee! And she was able to commit to the wrapping of the barrel/cones but she wasn’t able to do it fast yet – in new locations, choose games that she is really fluent with at home rather than play the newer games. So to get her to run fast for the barrels, for example, you can do more turn and burn and less rocking horses or race tracks (which require more thought :)) Or zipping through a short tunnel 🙂
That way the new environments are more about “welcome to the new place, let’s do an easy thing!” And less about anything that requires a lot of processing for the game (because the environmental processing will be taking up a lot of her bandwidth at the moment :)) And that is why it is perfectly fine to bring her into new environments on food, because that is easier to process as she is processing all the other stimuli in the environment.
Nice work here! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi!
I think the ring rental moments went just fine 🙂 A few thoughts for you:
>> “what are we doing here? now what?” and maybe a predictable game feels good? >>
Yes, I think that is part of it – there is a lot of things happening each time she is in the ring: toys versus cookies versus running versus… so it is a little hard to tell what is coming next because just as she gets into something, it gets changed.
I think the long distance throws of the toys and treats might be a little detrimental here, because she doesn’t seem all that comfy getting a toy from that far ahead. And, on the cookie throws, you were taking off really fast and really far: she was coming to you, but I think waiting to run away will make it more of a game. If you take off before she gets the cookie, it might be a bit of a negative for her in that whenever she is heading for a cookie, you are taking off the other way. So there is a response cost for heading to the cookie (she has to run to find you plus you disappear a bit) which could be diminishing the value of the food. So throw the cookie a little less far, then don’t move until after she has it then looks at you – then you can start the game by running away.
>>Around 0:50 I’m not sure what was going on. Was she nervous? Over it?>>
Probably distracted by being at the other end of the ring. There is a LOT of distraction in that ring and a lot of sensory input: visual, auditory, olfaction, etc. So it is pretty normal for a young dog to be needing a moment to process.
>>But I still kind of feel like I don’t know what to do, and I’m worried she will refuse treats or not care about toys and think this is lame. I’m wondering if she’s having fun or if I’m doing the right things. Am I overthinking? (Who? What? Me? Never!)>>
You are overthinking LOL!! And that is why you are always trying to switch things up to get her more engaged but that might have the opposite effect. So try just having a plan like “let’s do a few tunnels” and go in, get a little play for food eating, do a couple of tunnels, get a little play, then be done 🙂 And she is likely to behave differently at the rental than at home because of the big difference in intensity of distraction.
>>At the end, she showed some avoidance with the leash. Also not sure what to make of that. Does it mean she didn’t want the fun to end? Or just didn’t want to be leashed in that moment? >>
Usually that happens when the leashing up predicts the end of availability of reinforcement. So even if she gets a decompression walk or something, you will want to make leashing up predict more reinforcement available, such as leash on then a stuffed Kong in the ring. Or leash on, leash off and back to run through a tunnel. Or leash on, exit the ring, chew bone or snuffle mat or anything she really likes. I also shape the dogs to put their heads into the leash so it is fun fun fun to do that as a trick too 🙂
Let me know what you think 🙂
TracyGood morning! He did well here!
As you start any session with distractions, you can reward that first head turn towards you (:20) so get the game started. As you move back and forth, it doesn’t matter which side of you he is on – I think he was switching sides because it was unclear where, so looking at him will help with that (but if he switches sides as he is working through a distraction – still fine and rewardable :))When you are using a toy as the distraction, you can also add in a ‘get it’ cue so he can grab the toy. We want impulse control on the toys but we also want him to play with them 🙂 so a get it marker will help balance that. For other distractions, you don’t need to cue him to interact. But if people and other dogs are distracting, you can also add a “go see” cue for him to visit. Impulse control is easier when the dog knows when he can have the ‘thing’ and when he can’t 🙂
Nice work here! Stay warm!
TracyGood morning!
>>I noticed that I was getting a lot of direct eye contact with her (hard to see in the videos), and I feel like it was causing a lot of handler focus when she should have been looking at the next jump, so I think I didn’t find the “sweet spot” every time.>>
I could see her looking at you and she often barked when she did it, to underscore her point LOL! Looking at the video – any of the questions about the sending or when she was looking at you were all about arm position 🙂
First, look at a super successful moment at 2:04 – your arm was low and a little back, with great eye contact so she had great commitment, no head check to look at you and no barking
Compare to the times when she looked at you and barked (:22, :28, :42, 1:29, 1:40 2:08, 217 ) – your arm was ahead of her on the line and ahead of you on some of the reps which blocked connection so she had to look up and also rely on motion. At 1:56 and 2:38 the arm was far enough ahead that the line of your shoulders changed so she came off the line.
You could probably see her peripherally on those reps, but she needed to see more of the shoulder position and connection. The trick to that will be keeping your arm back to her nose and looking directly at her eyes when she is behind you, to set up the send.
You can see the difference in quick succession at :55 (she didn’t go) and at :58 (where you dropped your arm, maybe eye contact, and re-sent her to the wing with one little step and she went to it immediately :))
So rather than using a lot of motion or verbals here, try for the massive connection, arm back to her nose until after she is past you) and one big send step. To help solidify commitment you can throw reinforcement to the landing side of the jump or past the wing. And, stay as close as you can to the previous obstacle: so if the sequence is sending to the wing, decelerate and don’t go past the landing spot of the jump to set up the send with the connection and the dog side arm/leg.
That position will make your life a lot easier in terms of getting back up the line for the crosses 🙂I think your exit line connection was looking good! You had t hustle to get there but he was able to pick up the new side easily (and yes, keep running through it with the connection until she catches up to you).
Nice work here! Let me know what you think!
TracyGood morning!
My favorite part of this video was that overall she made you HUSTLE to have to get the serpentines – it was great to see her speed pushing you, because you ran harder and that also got more speed from her, which required more speed from you… a happy cycle 🙂The send to the wing before the jump was the hardest part as you mentioned – on the first reps where she did not go to the wing, you were pointing ahead and looking at the wing (which caused your arm to be too high/blocking connection which is also something you already noted). But you made great adjustments and she was able to get the wing nicely! Both of you knew that you were heading to the jump, so it required a bit of patience to make sure she locked onto the wing first.
She seems more comfy on the right turns like at 1:50 and 1:56 where we had a great view of your connection. On the left turn side, it is a little harder for to propel away to the wing, so she needed one big explosive step from you with the connection – and when you worked that out, she flew away to the wing. YAY! Being able to make adjustments like that during a training session is a GREAT skill – well done!
>>I understand why we don’t because it totally closes the shoulder but that just seems more natural to my brain! LOL>>
SO TRUE! We humans like to point at things… but that is unfortunately not how dogs process handling info. The good news is that as they get more experienced, we don’t have to be nearly as precise with the sending as we do in these early stages with young dogs.
I agree with your assessment that the serpentines went really well! She drove in hard on every one of them! There was only one question moment, at :56 – it is hustle-induced because she was flying and you were trying to get past the wing. And while that was happening, you were moving forward and looking at her – ideally as you move forward you would be shifting connection to look at the landing spot, to help cue the commitment. I say it was hustle-induced because it is hard to run hard AND shift connection in the early stages – but you will get it and she will also understand to commit even as you are moving forward.
Great job here!
TracyGood morning!
>>has an unknown fur (almost like hair…)>
Interesting! I wonder what it is? She certainly loved it LOL!
She did well with the sends! Good job to you for doing one step on the send (it is HARD to not run forward but you were doing one big step from the wing to the jump and she had no questions!). The best reps were where you made a more direct eye contact as she came around the wing, so you got the most speed around the wing on those. When your shoulder was ‘closed’ forward more , she was a little slower around the wing, maybe waiting for more info.
Adding the 2nd jump was no problem – it looks like you can move away even sooner as you send to the first jump to get past the 2nd jump – you did that at 3:16 and it was TERRIFIC! She went to the jump and you were already heading for jump 2. On. The other reps you were waiting til she was taking off for jump 1 more, so you can add in leaving sooner like you did at 3:16.
Shifting connection video – this went well too! Her commitment is looking strong so you can start to rotate sooner to show more counter motion. To do that, you can spread the distances out a bit so that you take 5 or 6 steps between the wing and jump – that should give you more time to decel and rotate for the FC , so you are decelerating as she catches up to you and rotating for the FC/shifting connection as she passes you (and that will give you more time to shift your connection too). On the tighter distances, you were tending to do it as she was taking off, so adding 8 to 10 more feet between the jump and the wing should help a lot 🙂
Circle wraps on the wing are looking strong too too! Your connection shift was lovely and you didn’t have extra steps sideways or backwards: you were moving forward the whole time. She was slowing down by the end – I think that was more due to a lot of reps being the same so she was losing steam. You do a couple of reps and if they are roughly right, move on to the next thing 🙂
Serps combos – great connection here, and the exit line connection really helped her see the line! Plus it sped your shoulders face the jump more – as you move fast the jump with your feet forward like they were here, more rotation towards the jump with your upper body will help her see the serp cue even sooner (as she exits the wing wrap, you can be starting the serp shoulder rotation). The exit line connection totally help that! And you can have your dog-side arm extended out and away from you to help her se that too.
On the 2nd video, the connection looked strong too! And the exit line connection looked really clear as well – yay! You were working the serp arm here –
You can see the arm extending on the because you were facing the camera – the serp arm was happening as she was taking off, though – so change the timing to show her the serp arm/shoulders with the shifting connection as she exits the wing wrap (as if it was the previous jump).When adding countermotion at the end of the serp to get through the gap and have a wrap exit of the jump, you can be further across the bar as she exits the wing before it, That way you are moving forward past the wing, and not parallel to the bar. If she sees you moving parallel to the bar, she will jump on a slice (instead o f the desired wrap) and that is why she almost too you out at the end here. Ideally you can be passing the takeoff side of the jump with connection shifting back to her landing spot as she is approaching takeoff.
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyGood morning!
I think the connection in the sends video is looking really strong overall! There was only one moment where you were not quite connected enough at 1:36 your shoulders were already rotating away so he didn’t commit to the wing. You were fixed that on the rep after it and all of the other reps had clear connection.
>>n reviewing the video I feel like I didn’t really send. I felt like I had to move somewhere/more>>
Yes, you can definitely make it more of a send and less forward motion towards the jumps to wing.
When sending from the wing to the jump, starting with a FC like you did at :37 is a great way to set it up. Then make the BIG connection as he exits the wing wrap… and send him with the connection and one big step to the jump 🙂The sequences are going well (the wing is blending in with the visuals behind it so he was a little more careful sending to it, but he did find it well!) but you can send more here too, to help set up the cross when you add that in to the end: Decelerate near the jump before the send (probably one step past it) then with big connection, take one big step to the wing and see if he can drive to it.
The shifting connection went well too! Your connection shift on the FC on the jump was VERY obvious 🙂
With getting you even further ahead in mind: You can add deceleration into it so you can be rotated sooner and even already moving the other way when he is taking the jump. So as he is exiting the wing wrap, you can start to decel as he catches up to you then rotate and shift connection to the landing of the jump as he passes you. That will allow you to move away before he takes off.The circle wraps are going well too!
The connection and commitment was looking really strong overall. Only 2 little handling bloopers, at 2:14 and 2:37 – You looked forward on those so there was a connection break and shoulder rotation so he (correctly) read it as a blind cross cue. Good boy!
>>I also noticed that I was often taking an extra step back towards the landing side on the wraps that should not be needed.>>
Yes – the shifting connection should help you not have to move sideways or backwards. I think the reason folks do that is because we humans are weight shifting to move forward again because we were running fast then have to stop, and the added steps help us balance. So this is also a place to add decel: as you are getting to the wing, start decelerating (and lean forward a little :)). Then as he passes you, you can shift your connection and move forward again, no extra steps. The decel plus leaning forward should make it feel easier to not step sideways.
Great job! Let me know what you think!
TracyGood morning!
The sends are looking really good, same with theserps! If think the right turn lines at the beginning is more comfy for you – Your connection on the sending was really clear and your shoulder position for the serp was really clear too (like at :18 for example).The left turn side seemed harder for you both, but you had a ton of lovely reps! And good adjustments too if there was a blooper – like at :34 when you shoulder for the serp was not as clear but you fixed it at :40 and she got it really well!
When she is on the left turn line, you were tending to be further from the jump for the serp so it was a little harder for her to see as compared to the left turn lines where you were a lot closer. So stick as close as you can.I think you might have been trying to leave sooner from the send to get to the 2nd jump at :48 and :55 where you were moving away from the jump as she came around the wing, so she didn’t have a cue to go to the jump (so she didn’t go, good girl!)
Compare to the reps at 1:17 and 1:23 which had the big connection and the big step to the jump – and she got it perfectly 🙂
The shifting connection for the circle wraps looked great! Her commitment was strong and your connection shifts were really obvious! Because she is so fast (and there will be no hang time over the jumps when a bar in there :)) one suggestion to get you to be able to move forward faster:
As you cue her to go past you to the circle wrap, you can keep your dog side arm arm going across on front of you – you can think of it as transferring her from your dog side arm to your other arm, then using that other arm to supper the connection shift back behind you. I try not to let my dog-side arm go past my dog-side hip. That way, there is less rotation for me… and less rotation means I cam move forward faster 🙂Let me know if that makes sense! Great job on these!!!
Tracy
