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Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi! It was fun ‘seeing’ you at the webinar! I love doing them!
>>I have a question on your feedback from the 24th about the Sends & Serps game. was I doing the send wrong? I don’t want to be missing a mechanics nuance (or big detail)>>
It was not wrong necessarily, but you can make it more ‘serp-like’ by staying close to the jump and travel parallel to the bar. You were turning a bit and ending up perpendicular to the bar – that cues her to come in and take the jump, but if there is another jump on the serp line, she would need the parallel path relative to the jump to be able to turn back out to it. Let me know if that makes sense – if not, I can draw it 🙂
Tracy
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
This went well too! She did better on the out reps when you were not moving as fast – that is probably because the upper body has to override the motion of the lower body (so be sure you are moving, not standing still to send). Because the processing is hard and you will want to keep your feet straight to the line, you can give her a little more room between the wing and the jump. By that, I mean as she exits the wing wrap, the jump can be further up the line you are traveling along. She did the out on a bunch of reps but didn’t quite find the jump, so moving the jump further up the line can give her more time to process her footwork and find the jump 🙂Great job here!!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
>>Congratulations on your flyball win! I’m guessing CanAm is like Nationals for flyball? So kind of a big deal.>>
Thanks! It is the North American championships (we beat a couple of Canadian teams on the road to the finals) and is definitely the highlight of the flyball year!
The rear cross shaping game went well! The hardest part for her was NOT turning her feet to follow you as you stepped back to get behind her 🙂 If she has a platform behavior, you can have her sit on a platform if that helps her hold the stay a little better.
She did a great job of reading the rear crosses when you did step behind her! And she has a very flexible, long neck LOL!
So you can take this in front of a jump now – she is in her sit right in front of a jump, less than a foot away – and when you release her (either forward or from the rear cross after the head turn) she will go over the jump 🙂
Nice work!!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
One other idea popped into my head today as I was mulling over the weirdness of the facility rules LOLOne way to help arousal regulation at the start without conflict is to allow the dog to choose their position. For example, early in Contraband’s career, I simply asked for a stay and he would settle himself into whatever position he wanted. Sometimes it was a sit, sometimes a stand. He never chose a down LOL
But he always did it immediately and he never moved a muscle til released. That gave him some agency in a hard environment, allowed me to be happy with his stay, and gave me insight into his arousal level at the moment: choosing a sit meant he was pretty optimized, while choosing a stand meant it was hard but he was working the self-regulation.
And the runs were always good! Now that he is more adult, he just offers a sit before I even ask, because he has a far better understanding and is more relaxed in the environment.
Food for thought as you think about start lines 🙂
Tracy
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterGood morning!
Great job on these games, you and JJ don’t look rusty at all! These all went really well!
>>Who is really concerned about using the toy with my arm and that played a role in how I did/we did as a team.>>
You were using food a lot and that was perfectly fine, because we do want to keep protecting your arm – no rush to get back to toys or tugging until you are fully clear to do so.
You can let her “run through” the toy as the reward: when you present it to her, hold it until she grabs it then you let go of it, so she keeps moving through it. That will be better for your arm! And she can bring the toy back for a reward. We do this running through the toy in flyball, partially to protect our arms & shoulders 🙂 and partially to protect the dog’s neck – and this also works super well in agility too!
Ladder grid: Looking good!! The distances look good too, but that might change as you add the moving target (see below).
It was hard to see where the reward was on the first video but based on her form over the last jump, it was too close 🙂 On the 2nd video, you were pretty close and upright, so she was (correctly) decelerating on the last jump and lifting her head. She was preparing to stop on the last jump, which was different form than over the 1st and 2nd jump. So, since she has such a lovely stay, you can go past the last jump another 10 feet and use the moving target reward so it is slowly moving as you release her. I like what she is doing over bars 1 and 2, so this will get bar 3 the same way while also adding arousal and motion to the skill 🙂
You might also want to set her up a couple of inches closer to jump 1 (literally 2 or 3 inches) so she has a more centered arc between the jumps.
Strike a pose: Also looked good and she was really pumped up to try the game!
I thought your position on the first rep of the first video was great, and I admit chuckling when she went directly to the tunnel LOL!! But you then made the serp arm a little more obvious on the next reps and looked at it a little, so she nailed it. Super!!! And she had no trouble with the threadle – except job being in the right position for it and showing the arm and using the verbal. And the tunnel cue went well too!
And she was great about getting all the correct responses when you switches sides. So cool! One small detail of the serp is to reward from the other hand after she lands, so she makes the 2nd turn of the serp – it will feel a little cramped 🙂 but you can stop moving and have her end up in front of you and parallel to the jump, facing the tunnel. This will help build up the S shape of the serp 🙂
For the threadles, you can keep your threadle arm back and moving past the jump, rather than cuing the jump – the threadle cue means to come in and take the jump, so you don’t need to turn your shoulders to it. That can push her back to the incorrect side, as you saw at 1:10 on the 2nd video.
She is wanting to release from the stay on the arm cue for the threadle or serp, so remember to put the arm up as you move to position. If you plan is to be stationary when you release, you can pause, praise, then release. If you are going to be moving when you release, have the arm cue up the whole time so you don’t put it up at the same time as you do the verbal cue.
Wind in your hair:
1st video was the rear cross – also going really well! She must have been practicing while you were on vacation!>>I have two videos on this to share. Using a right or left verbal with this actually helped me out.>>
Yes! That is a good spot for the left/right verbals, and you don’t need the go verbal for the rear cross. She was going straight til the last minute here because you were saying “Go”, which means to continue straight, so she was reading the physical cue a bit last minute on the right turns (or not at all on the first left turn). So, keep the good pressure on the rear cross lines that you had here (that was looking good!) but change the verbals to your left or right verbals, depending on which way she is turning. We will save the Go verbal for straight lines with no lead changes.
2nd video started with a go – very nice! You can throw the reward sooner so she doesn’t look at you over the bar. The 2nd rep was a rear cross with a left verbal: perfect! On the other reps, you said go then the directional – you don’t need the go at all, because she should (and did) commit to the jump straight on the go verbal and physical cue, then had to switch to the left or right a little late. And then on the last rep which was a real “go”, she was more careful and watching you (rather than driving ahead) to see if you were going to switch to the left or right.
The Diamond videos:
The blinds are going well! This is where she can run through the toy reward and then bring it back for another reward – much safer for your arm!
As you get more comfy with the blinds, you can start them sooner – that will tighten them right up. O n the 2nd rep, you started the blind when she was about halfway between the tunnel and wing and she was already tighter! On the last rep, you had perfect timing (she had exited the tunnel and you started the blind) and that was perfect!! The last rep was a little later but still really good. As she gets more experienced with the blinds, her turns will get tighter and tighter.
One suggestion for the tight blinds – lower your arms and keep them a little tighter to your sides – that will give her more visible connection and it will also help you be really quick on the blinds 🙂
2nd video – also super strong! As you exit the blind, make the connection like you did but keep moving – you were hesitating a tiny bit as you made the connection which decelerates you more than we want (we don’t want her to catch up to you LOL!) On the last rep, you did a great job of making the connection and continuing to move to the next wing, and that made it smooth and fast!
3rd video – the race track looked great! Fast and fun, great connection! You probably don’t need to have your arm up on the race track – you might find it easier to just run.
The FCs after the big race track were harder! As as he exits the tunnel, you can decelerate into them along with the verbal wrap cue. The decel plus the cue will help her collect. Then on the exit of the wrap, especially on the left turn wraps, make a BIG connection back to her eyes (you can totally use the arm across the body like you did on the tight blinds). What was happening on those left wraps was that the connection was a little too soft, so as she exited the wing she could see your back more than your eyes. So she didn’t know which side to be on, and then when you said tunnel she went to the tunnel she was looking at (:41 – :42 was a good example of that). So make the big connection and when you see she has turned and come to the new side, then you can add the. Tunnel cue 🙂
Last video – super nice job adding the tight blinds here! Lovely connection! Those are hard to do at high speed, and you both did a great job 🙂 YAY!!!
Now you can start to push the timing up – when she exits the tunnel, keep moving forward but start to decelerate into the blind, so it will start sooner and end up tighter. If you are too early or disconnected, she will not take the wing (so that is good feedback from her).Great job here!!! Let me know what you think!
Tracy
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi! Great to see you here!
>>Mitre is very motion sensitive and when I try to work through it using food or toys it does not go to well. She is totally amped. I try not to rehearse it too much but still try to work though it. I move further and further away which helps. Any other tips. Or should I try the Pattern games away from distraction then gradually introduce to the motion of other dogs. Or the power up games.
Yes – the first step is to teach the foundation pattern games away from distractions (at home)until they are the easiest thing ever for her (won’t take long) then add an easy distraction. When she is great with pattern games, we will add them to the harder environments but she needs to be fluent with them first. The power patterns and volume dial game come later on, but all of that can be done at home first too!
When she is around moving dogs, can she eat? Can she tug? Let me know what she can do and what you are trying when she is having trouble aorund moving dogs.
Tracy
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
The sequences are going really well!!
Seq 1 – Very nice! On both videos, you can line him up on a slice at 1 so he can be turned before takeoff, rather than facing 1 straight on which means he has to add a turn after landing.
He is reading the BC well on the 3-4 line, so now you can start it sooner: try to start it no later than when he is halfway between the tunnel exit and the jump, so it is finished before he takes off – that will tighten it right up!
>>There is a red wing on the far side of the course next to the fence that blends into the equipment and is hard for you to see in this camera setup. He blew past that jump a couple of times in this sequence.
Hard to see why he missed the jump – might be the visual clutter of the stuff along the fence (that a-frame is very visually prominent!!), or he needed more connection which always helped him get it in both directions 🙂 When you had great connection on that ending line, it looks like he got that last jump nicely!!
>>Lastly, over the past couple of months I feel like he’s becoming way too attached to me (agility wise LOL) . He seems to be looking at me a lot and curling into me rather than staying out on his line, which leads to blowing by jumps as in the first opening sequence posted above.
He might need more reinforcement thrown on the lines in the sequence (and not from your hand or thrown at the end). Also, as the sequences get bigger, it is normal for us humans to disconnect more (oops!!) so that might be why he is looking at you more. For example, on the last run of the 2nd video, he almost didn’t take the #2 tunnel because you were not conencted. So try to keep ultra connected and if he misses a jump just keep going and connect more. Stopping him will get him looking at you even more!
>>I usually carry a toy in my hand which I’m thinking I should hide but I’m not sure that’s the problem. Your thoughts?>>
He might be looking at the toy when you are disconnected? So you can carry it or have it in your pocket, but either way be sure to emphasize connection.
Video 3 – nice lead out and lead out push on 2! It looks like he read it well and you moved away to 3 with good timing too!
Good timing on the blind – be sure to keep moving to 3, rather than in towards the bar on 2, so he doesn’t run into you and also so he knows which way to set up the turn (towards 3)
>>However, Baxter seems to want to come behind me at jump #3. I feel that I’m connected – is it my feet?>>
He ended up behind you t 1:42 and it was a definite connection moment. I think you can see him, but you are not looking at him strongly enough so he doesn’t see the line. When you looked at him very clearly, he had no questions. The same happened at 2:54 at jump 3 – you were a little softer in your connection, looking ahead, so he was not sure where to go. You were much more connected at 3:56!
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
Yes, the next steps are to take it on the road to neutral happy places, as well as adding novel distractions in the environment. And the alligator toy is PERFECTION!!! Love it!!!!
T
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterYes, Rising Star is a LOT tighter – but you can start outside, use the side room, and the alley near the bathrooms! And if it it too much for her, you can skip the run so it stays fun 🙂
Tracy
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
>>So she starts by missing the tire… is there something I did?>>
Does she miss the first obstacle when it is a jump? She was watching you intently as you led out (you were not watching her) and she was angled slightly away from the tire. So when you reconnected and released, the tire was not on her line. You can try leading out with more connection and when you arrive at your position, wait for a heartbeat so she can remember the first obstacle, then release. If it never happens on a regular jump, she likely needs more experience on the tire as the first obstacle.
>>Then I knew the spread to the weaves would be an issue so I tried to cue when she landed but that seemed to be much too late. If I’d yelled when she was over the bars, she would have knocked them but let’s face it, she was already locked onto the tunnel when she took the spread>>
Yes that was a hard line – the weaves were really hard for the dog to see. Ideally the turn cue would start no later than landing from the previous jump, so she would take off for the spread already turned to the weaves. A turn cue there can be a brake arm or even a spin!
And the jump after the aframe needs a strong turn cue too – so definitely start giving her turn info no later than exit of the previous jump, so she can set up the turn.
Tracy
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
She did well here!
She was definitely doing a rhythm of look-release on the first rep, then caught herself: “oops, momma never said to start” LOL!Looking at the turn on 3 at :27 – the easy verbal is a strong choice for that type of turn! The forward-facing send doesn’t produce a clear connection cue for her, since hte body language still faces forward. Have you ever used a ‘brake’ arm (a two-handed collection cue) – that might be the sweet spot of collection for this line. If you have used it, try it as she is landing from 2 – give your easy with a brake arm and then peel away to 4. If you haven’t used it, let me know and I will send a video.
Suoer nice RC to the tunnel and ending line!
On the next sequence!
Nice BC timing on the opening line and the spin did its job – you got a collection before takeoff then she got to chase you down the next line. The earlier you can can cue that and leave, the tighter she will turn 🙂 She likes the running very much, so if a tight turn is the gateway to big running and toy chasing? She is going to turn SUPER tight!>> This is one of the things she struggles with a lot if I’m not right on top of the bar so I have taken the bar off here to try and work on it with a little distance and encourage her to stay tight.
That went well! I especially liked the last rep – super nice! You can add a low bar into the session – since she did so well without the bar, you can ask her to organize her jumping a bit with the cue she was seeing, to set up collection before the bar.
>>We are working decel front cross away from sequences with just one jump and a lower bar than her jump height, plus a toy on the ground to encourage her to stay tight. When I work one in a sequence I currently remove the bar like here so she doesn’t get to rehearse the big wide turns.>>
If you are happy with a clicker, you can click the moment you see that collection then have her chase you for the reward. I have found that chasing for rewards will really help with turns in the real world, more so than a placed reward where a BC has to stop to get it. Stopping her for rewards does not have the same intrinsic motivation that run run run as part of the reward does, so we get really incredible turns with running built into the reinforcement 🙂 It is a different style of placement: rather than stop and land here with a dead toy on the ground, it is more of a “the party is going this way, HURRY UP” and heck yeah, they hurry. I have also placed a toy on the next line after a tight turn, and played a race game: I cue the turn and then race to the toy. If I get there first because the turn was wide? My toy! I dance with it, play with it, do not give it to the dog. The next rep is when I see the dog dig in and turn a whole lot tighter to get the toy (I win that race game maybe once LOL!!)
Great job here!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
>> No food or toys allowed once you go through that area and that means the start gate could be 30-200 feet once you get in.
Well, that is bizarre for an agility facility. Yes, you will have to work up to that which also means – don’t plan on trialing there anytime soon, because getting into the ring will be a pain in the butt wkith very few tools in the toolbox available, and getting to the reward after the run will take FOREVER. What are they going to do about the NFC/FEO runs where toys are allowed? And why are toys not allowed? I know places have silly rules about food, but toys don’t leave crumbly stuff anywhere.
And, get yourself a nice tug leash! Introduce it as a toy then add it as a leash to tug on (on cue of course!). And if this place gives you grief about using a perfectly legal leash, or tugging on the leash? Then stay away from it, as the rules will be too restrictive, everyone will be tense (human and canine) and she doesn’t need to be in that place any time soon.
>>She still struggles when other dogs are running. Sprite can watch me run Gemma. Well, at least at home. But, it’s hard for her to see other dogs run.>>
That is normal! And that is where we will take the pattern games, starting as far away as possible where the latency is pretty low. 20 feet? 30 feet? 50 feet? Wherever you need to start is great! Eventually she will have no trouble doing it ringside,
Tracy
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
>> I think we may have some holes in our training as this is a pretty common thing for her to do where she just goes around the jump. >>
I think there was a bit of a parallel path/shoulder turn question here, good questions from her!
I think the main thing on the first part of the sequence was that you were running parallel to the jumps (ideally you would be turning your shoulders) without a lot of connection, which was pushing her past the jumps. You can see it at :03, :15, :44 – you were running on a parallel line, so she stayed on her line which is actually correct (because your shoulder was closed and you were not serping her in). So – turn your shoulders sooner and watch her more: as she is exiting 1 and looking at 2, you should be turning your shoulders to 3 so she takes 2. Then when she lands from 3m you should be turned and facing 4-5. At :44, for example, you can see the convergence towards the jump which pushes her to the backside of it.
A turn cue for 3 to get a collection stride would help show her the line (as she lands from 2, you could be turning and giving a little ‘brake’ arm), then fully turn your shoulders to face the new line 3-4 (while staying connected, but definitely turn the shoulders).Then on the line after the tunnel – at 1:06, she did not take the jump after it because you were running away from that jump rather than towards it.
She totally got it at 1:14 when you ran towards it with connection (super nice!!!) but 2 things happened after that:
the last jump is a bit of a threadle line, because the natural line for her is to the backside of it here. Plus, you were saying “GO!” when she landed from the jump after the tunnel and you turned after she landed – she tried to adjust but there was too much speed,So I think the key is to make sure all of the lines are natural lines (no backsides) so you can turn your shoulders to them. You can do a fast moving ‘lazy’ game where you just got around the line turning your shoulders as early as you can, and toss a treat when she finds the jump, to help solidify finding the lines and give you time to get your shoulders turned.
Nice work! Let me know what you think!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
>.He had a hard time understanding and I need to come up with a better plan for how I do things and create more clarity for him.>>
The key is going to be the 2 failure rule. If he fails twice (not just twice in a row, it totally can be twice overall), your plan is too hard and you need to make it easier. This includes reps where he gets a reset cookie or you hand him a toy – he still perceives those as failures (dogs read us very well), might not understand what the reward is for, and is probably confused. You edited out a lot of the reinforcement (feel free to leave it in!) so it was hard to tell what was happening. But he had several failures on the first session, which probably leaked over into the 2nd session which had several failures before he froze. The 2 failure rule is to keep the rate of success from getting too low, at which point the dogs get confused and stressed.
Remember to use your markers for the rewards, such as ‘get it’ so he knows to look ahead to get it. That will help clarify things for when you do throw a reward (saying “yay” or “yes” causes him to look at you and potentially miss a reward).
Bear in mind that as a 25% whippet and a 50% papillon, when there is a lack of clarity and pressure, both of those breeds are likely to stop working and dial up an Uber. The 25% BC might continue to work, or not – but either way, the freezing is a sign of confusion and stress. So while yes, the pattern games bring him back, ideally we don’t see the freezing up anymore and we don’t want to have to bring him back from it.
So since you have been seeing freezing up on multiple occasions in training, we need to change the rule for a while: it is now the 1 failure rule 🙂 If he fails one time, you need to make it easier so he is VERY successful for the rest of the session.
When thinking about motivation and success rates, there are 2 success rates in play at all times:
– the rate of success of the particular session you are doing
– the umbrella rate of success for all sessions that day, and all sessions overall, period. So if you have had a low rate of success session or several sessions, that will bleed over into future training and his tolerance/resilience for failure and lack of clarity will be greatly reduced. And I can vouch for this line of dogs, since I have one – they don’t come with the natural “resilience and tolerance for failure/confusion” app already installed, so you will need to be SUPER careful to build it up over time by keeping a hawk’s eye on the rate of success.>.He was looking at me a lot and I was pushing him on the line because he was not looking at the jump. >>
I think you were a little unpredictable with the line and reward, so he was looking at you a lot. Be sure to do a couple of straight line warm ups of the simple go cue where you are outside the wings, and he gets a quick refresher of finding the jump. And the toy can be in your hand the whole time, or in a pocket the whole time, or placed on the ground… but try to not to take it out of your pocket while you are moving because that draws his attention to you a lot and away from the line.
>> Makes me think I should use my left and right for soft turns no rear crosses which are the Super Skills verbals – but we don’t need to debate. >>
You can use whichever verbal you want to there! I will plant the seed in your ear that the way agility is evolving, the ‘switch’ to mean ‘rear cross’ will not be enough. It is a little too vague – extension? collection? wrap? And I know people say that your physical cue will show the dog the rest of the info, but then you will be hosed when you cannot be visible enough for him (like on the other side of the dog walk or layering a tunnel). I know that until recently, people didn’t have separate cues for each side of a wrap, or left/right, or separate backside verbals… but the sport continues to evolve so super specific verbals are the way to go.
But for now… take the verbals off the rear crosses entirely because they are getting mixed up an he is not sure where to look. You can be quiet as you do them (hard to do LOL!) and definitely do not say “GO” on a rear cross because a rear cross is very different than a go cue.
2 ideas for you on the rear crosses:
– put a light line on the ground for you to run on, from the exit of the start wing to the center of the bar. You will run on that line until he takes off for the jump. You pushed in too soon on the first rep (your feet were going to the backside wing) which is why he did the left on the ground, On the 2nd rep you were saying go but also pushing in towards the bar a bit sideways, so he was confused. On the other reps, you were saying “go” which means straight then switch which means turn away – so he is watching you more because the verbals and body language are confusing. The line on the ground will help you run the proper line so he doesn’t have to look at you for more info.– you can put the MM tucked in past the wing for the rear crosses to help him look at the jump, but you need to leave it there for the GO reps (where he should not go to it). And if the MM is being used, you will still want to put the line on the ground and run the correct line.
Separately, you revisit the rear cross prop game from MaxPup 1 to break down the elements of the RC before working it on jumps and can play this little flatwork game:
Layering – it was a little hard to see what he got rewarded for but there were multiple errors and after the 2nd one, he froze up. Using the MM is fine, but put it someplace more obvious so he doesn’t consider cutting through the gap. And you can add more of your motion too – the layering is a motion skill (not a send, so you can send him around the start wing and move up the line parallel to the tunnel.
On both of these games, be sure to tug before, during, after the work! And you can use a placed toy out on the line, rather than using the MM as much. The toy might be more motivating for him! Yes, he won’t bring it back as fast but that is fine, it is better to have fun and romp around 🙂
Nice work here! Let me know what you think!
Tracy
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
Serps and threadles:
He did well on the threadles here! And remember that In In means come in and take the jump, so no need to say jump or handle to the jump, as long as you are not too far from it.>>In looking at the video I realized I am too far back from the jump which made the angle much more difficult for Pesto to get the jump>>
Yes, you were miles from the jump LOL! You need to be really close to it, close enough to touch it!
Does he have a ‘reward from hand’ marker? He is stopping what he is doing and coming to you when you say ‘yes’ or ‘yay’, which we don’t want – we want him to always be looking for the correct line.
On the serps – make sure you are close to the jump and between the uprights with your chest facing the center of the bar, to show the true serp position. Your lower body will do the same exact thing on all 3 skills here (serp, threadle, tunnel) and the proofing is about the upper body and verbal.
>> he had a much harder time with the tunnel. Maybe I should set him up differently? Any suggestions on how to improve the picture he sees when I ask him to take the tunnel?>>
For the tunnel cues – you are a bit too far from it here, so the jump was in the picture more than the tunnel. To help him out, you need to be a little further ahead of him and a little more past the jump bar. Plus, line up his sit so he is facing it and not looking at the jump – that should help too.
>> It is clear he has a better side and by the time I switched to the left side I think he was already starting to run out of steam>>
He was a good boy looking for the jump here but the verbals were confusing and didn’t match the handling, so he ended up looking at you more and more:
The first couple of reps had you saying
Go – jump – switch
or
go-switchSo then at :19, you said go then got quiet, and he kept looking at you as if saying… go WHAT?
then on the other side, the verbals were
left
go-left (he spun on the flat)
And at 1:11 you said go but converged into him so he was not sure what to do.Plus, the reward markers were all yes or yay, but a thrown reward for most of them, so he really didn’t know where to look.
So I don’t think he was running out of steam, I think he was confused so was slowing down and looking at you. But we can clean up the mechanics and that will help him know where to look!
For the RCs, the verbal should either be a directional or a switch/RC verbal (see below for my thoughts about that). A “go” only ever means straight, no RC, and “jump” generally doesn’t ever mean RC. So be sure the verbals match the behavior you are cuing. And, because you are throwin gthe reward, mark the behavior with the ‘get it’ and throw, so he continues to drive ahead and not look at you.
On the circle wrap at :29, you were correct to begin moving forward as soon as he was past you! To help him, as you move forward past the wing, shift your connection to the landing spot to help him commit then throw the reward behind you. You stayed on the landing side at :38 and :46 so he got it, but we can teach him the independence commitment by using a connection shift rather than having you stay at the landing spot.
Question – is push your backside wrap cue? Or is it the same as the backside slice? I definitely suggest 2 different backside cues, one for wrap and one for slice 🙂
Definitely feel free to leave the reward moments in the videos, and that can really help us sort out why he is looking where he is looking.
Nice work!
Tracy
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