Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Good morning! The sequences looked great!
Seq 1 looked great with the blind after the tunnel!
Seq 1 with serp after the tunnel was a great save moment! Yes, you were not quite where you needed to be but you stayed connected and got it done, which is a really important rehearsal.
Seq 1 with rear cross – good job going in closer to the tunnel to set it up. I think that put you a little too far behind here, because he decelerated – so you can experiment with being on the same RC line but a little further ahead, so you can be closer to the landing line and accelerate to the last jump.
You added more of a ‘go’ verbal on the next rep and it totally helped!
The last rep was the serp – great job getting to serp position! He gave you a ‘woof’ there at 1:17. It might be partially because the serp is really exciting 🙂 and partially because he needed a bit more upper body rotation towards the center of the 7 jump to indicate the turn to 8 sooner.
You can see he landed from 7 then turned to 8, having to adjust on landing. So a more rotated upper body can cue the turn before takeoff to 7.
Percolating another idea for you:
>>trying to incorporate more accel/decel even in these short sequences.>>
He is really self-propelled on these smaller space sequences, so on parts of it you are not needing to really hustle. But on the big trial courses, there is significant hustle (especially the big UKI courses LOL!). And it would be great to rehearse the ‘significant hustle’ factor at home, because it will help your timing and connection (those are easy when you don’t have to run full speed). And it will help him rehearse his collection/jumping/line focus/etc mechanics too, in the arousal state and with the motion challenge he will see when you are in true hustle mode.
So a couple of options here:
– you can build the sequences with an extra 10 feet of distance, which should add the hustle factor for you both 🙂– you can run closer to the lines on the simpler parts of the sequence, which will simulate the hustle needed on the bigger courses, and add more challenge to getting away to cue the next part of the sequence
– Feel free to add in a challenging backside or threadle on the jumps so you have to handle a certain spot, then drive to the next one. So on the middle pinwheel jump, you can make is a threadle slice. Or a backside push! Having to be there to handle it will make it more like a ‘real’ course for him 🙂
Let me know if that makes sense or if I need more coffee to explain the idea LOL!
So much great stuff on the trial video!!! TONS of great rehearsals.
I am really liking his ringside and ring entry behavior (ignoring the tugging dog before him, for example, fast line ups, ignoring ring crew, etc.) And his end of run behavior looks pretty polished: he is driving directly to his leash then bringing it to you, without seeming to want to come back at you before the leash (and not looking at the other dogs).
All of this is an expression of arousal regulation and he has really come a long way! Yay! The work you’ve done to help him out is really coming together! So cool!!
The GO ON lines are great rehearsals in NADAC, yes, but also for UKI which has a LOT of that concept as well.
>>He was able to sit on the Startline for everything except Tunnelers. That one is sooo hard. But, I got a standing Startline even in Tunnelers. And, he only broke his start once (in a different class but hoop tunnel start so same challenge).>>
It looks like yes, it is harder to hold the stay in front of all the delicious tunnels but also he is releasing/moving early because the release and the reconnection are being paired, so he was moving when the reconnection happened before the release.
What I mean by that is when we humans lead out, we often are disconnected or using a very soft peripheral connection. Then at trials we often reconnect and release basically at the same time, with the reconnection often coming right before the release. So then, the dogs begin to thing the reconnection is the release in that environment and we get early releases. And it might only happen in trials, because that is when the release & reconnection are simultaneous because in training, we are often ‘cleaner’ with those cues.
So try to unpair the release and the reconnection: stay connected as you lead out, or reconnect but don’t release until after praise (or a stay reminder) and a couple of seconds later, release.
Great job here! What trials does he have coming up?
Tracy
Hi! I am so excited that she is coming home soon! Yay!
>>Engaged Chill (to use outside the ring)- Do you have more examples – Since it seems food is lower arousal for Sadie- Ask if using the small snuffle mat for her as her “chill” but Id have to keep putting a treat in the mat correct?>>
Using the small snuffle mats would involve putting crumbs of food in them. it can be pretty high value food in tiny crumbs, because it is more about the sniffing around that it is about the quantity of food. And if food is lower arousal/less stimulating? Perfect 🙂 And doing this further from the ring at first can help her get into it. And definitely practice this at home a whole bunch then at class, so she is familiar with it all, and it is well-rehearsed.
The other options besides the snuffle mats and slowing down the pattern game is to use things that she really likes when it is just her and you. This can include different forms of quiet physical contact, or some dogs are happy to stand or down next to us. Anything that does not require a ton of cookies to keep her doing it (unless she is snuffle matting, that is fine to use food because of the olfaction element).
>Or should I just teach her a behavior?
Teaching her the pattern game so she is very fluent, then slowing it down to get the ‘chill’ is probably going to be the most effective for her at this stage.
>> I would just have her at my side and I would have to keep feeding her and “attempting” to keep her attention so it doesn’t go to the dog or person next to us as we wait>>
That is why we want her to chill, so you don’t have to have rapid-fire treats or toys going, and so she knows how to simply watch while regulating her arousal. Engaged chill is a big arousal regulation game!
>> if I use a snuffmat- would that create more guarding behavior? And if another dog grabs it?>>
Does she resource guard food at home or in other places? If so, then you will want to be really far from other dogs. And if you see another dog coming over to you, tell them owner to move the dog away – the snuffle mat will be right at your feet so there is no reason for another dog to be there.
And when you are not using it, you can put it on top of a crate or table so other dogs cannot enjoy it 🙂
>>Step 1- Reward station- take a few steps away- ask for 1 trick- mark with “lets go” and run back to the reinforcement (Question: What if she learns the pattern and runs back before I get a chance to go with?>>
She might totally ask that question at some point LOL!!! In the early stages, two important things will answer that question for her:
– The food or toy should be up high enough on a table, and food should be closed up/covered, so it is harder for her to go grab it without you.
– work this skill on leash at first, so she is moving away from you on leash. This will help prevent access to the rewards if she anticipates, and also it adds in the leash mechanics because you will need to be doing this on leash at training and trials.
Let me know what you think!
TracyHi!
It is SO HARD for us humans to keep going when something goes wrong – for so many years, we have been taught to stop so now we are re-wiring OUR neural pathways LOL!!! It also involves a bit of acting so we appear as if the blooper was exactly what we wanted 🤣🤣
And yes, you can put all of your videos in one thread, so it is easier to follow her progression 🙂
Tracy
Good morning!
The volume dial and cartoon game on the release looked GREAT! He was definitely more stimulated, probably closer to what he will be like at a trial. Then he held his stay really well and released with speed and engagement, all while ignoring the reward station behind him. Love it!
You probably will not need to lead out using the cartoon mashup at a trial because the environment will provide the stimulation, but this as a terrific rehearsal of practicing in the highly aroused internal state for him. Well done!
Then adding it to the sequence was great too. Because he was more stimulated, he needed an extra moment to settle into the sit before you started the lead out. When he was settled into his sit, he was perfect with the stay as you added excitement on the lead out. Then he as SUPER fast on the release, but still incredibly focused on course. You were quite clear with your cues and very connected too! Wonderful!!!
Great job here!
TracyGood morning!
>>We are NOT allowed out when that dog runs. There’s a similar Golden in her other class. No dog is allowed out when he runs. Both of those dogs are reactive and unpredictable.>>
Ah, that is a bummer, thanks for the clarification. Hopefully other dogs in the class can provide the rehearsal opportunities. And, training buddies can do it too, even if it is not ‘real’ agility and they are doing wild things with puppies! The neural pathways we want from good rehearsals will still be developed. She is really well-prepared in so many ways that I believe this is the last thing she needs to complete the puzzle.
>>So, should I enter the late Dec trial? It will be 2 rings again and is AKC?>>
Sure! Enter it with FEO plans. You are getting closer to being able to fade the toy and run for realz. Any UKI coming up? It would be fun to try some jumping and speedstakes with her too.
>>P,s. It was the judge that said “nice Aussie” in the first video. She came over and told me as well after the run. That’s particularly nice as they don’t pay much attention to FEO runs.>>
That is so nice!!!! And she is correct of course 🙂
Tracy
Hi!
It was so fun meeting you in person and seeing Synnie work! She is so fast and so smart and so fun and SO CUTE!! Love her!>>Extended Chill information, as I’m thinking it is something that I really need to work with Syn.>>
You can find it here in this class too:
Nice job setting the line from the tunnel exit! To get the last jump in the straight line on this set (like at :17) , you will want to converge towards it more and amplify your connection to hope push her out to it.
When you were setting the good line on the tunnel exit, she didn’t always fine the 6 jump as you noted.
>>I can’t seem to figure out how to have her NOT slice jump 5 which puts her line around jump 6.>>
To help her out, you can also use a little brake arm (opposite arm) to get her to turn on the 5 jump (:44) as well as a name call to help be sure she turns enough to take the front of the jump.
You might actually be saying “go” too soon there and at 1:06 – she hasn’t fully turned yet, so since go means ‘stay on the straight line’, she is staying on the straight line she is looking at and goes past the 6 jump (she is a very literal young lady LOL!)
At 2:02 (and :15, on the first rep) she found the #6 jump really well because you turned really early. That allowed her to see you facing the line to 6 a stride or two before she took off. So it if that is possible, you can turn early like that. But if it is not always possible to turn early, the brake arm and name call will help you get her lined up for 6. And then when she turns to see 6 and locks onto it, you can start the go go go cue 🙂
>>Synnie went into season over the weekend, I usually don’t have dogs that are at this point and not spayed. Do you do anything different…not train as much, etc.?>>
It depends on how she is feeling. Some of the girls are totally business-as-usual, so you can keep training (I give them more rest in between). Or, some girls are more emotional or struggle more… so I don’t train. My girls have always been an absolute pleasure to train when they are in season – they are in a really good mood LOL! But that is not the case with all girls, so play it by ear and see how she feels.
Great job here!
TracyHi!
I see what you mean by him looking at you during the parallel path game!
You can warm up the session by doing a couple of sends to the prop so he moves ahead of you to it.
Then when you go to the parallel path game, you can do three things to get him looking at the prop more:
Two things about the reward:
– use lower value food so it is easier for him to look away from it, or feed him part of his meal before training so he is less motivated for food.
– Use a ‘get it’ marker before you throw the reward, so he gets into the habit of looking forward for the reward.
And one thing about the prop:
– give yourself a bigger working space, so the prop can be further away. Right now, it is so close to you that he can touch it AND look at you. It is too easy 🙂 So move it 5 or 6 feet away from your line, so he either walks next to you (no reward) or looks at the prop and moves to it. And when he looks at the prop and starts heading towards it, you can say ‘get it’ and throw the cookie before he even arrives at the prop, to reward the choice to look at it and not at you.
>>here is Teagan on his bed in the kitchen while I was making dinner>>
Perfect! This is a much better ‘job’ for him, than helping you by turning on the stove LOL!! He looks really good here!
Nice work!! Keep me posted on how he does with the parallel path game.
Tracy
Hi!
>>There is an added complication that I am training her for conformation and heavily discourage sitting facing me. >>
You ca n help her differentiate by adding contextual cues for conformation to help get the stack. These can be using the show lead because it will feel really different, plus the hand position that helps her focus on the cookie. She should be able to learn the different pretty quickly. And, using a platform will totally help!
You can also have her line up between your feet for the agility line ups – it is not part of the offering game, necessarily, but it is a good way to help her understand the difference between a sit cue and the conformation stack.
Looking at the video – excellent feet with strike a pose! You can be in your position before you toss the treat to get her to move away from you. She drives back really quickly, so already being in position will make it easier.
You can also use a toy now as the reward! That will help build up even more impulse control as well.
The leg bumps looked great! And hilarious and adorable 🙂 She was happy to do this with food and with the toy. At this stage, you can hold her on one side of you and tap the toy on the other side of the opposite leg, so she bounces across both of legs.
If you have another person who can sit next to you and provide another set of legs, you can have her bounce all the way across all 4 legs in a row like a mini jump grid.
Great job here!! Let men now what you think!
TracyHello and welcome! Oakes sounds like a really fun pup!!! I am glad you two are having fun 🙂 I am excited to hear more!!
Tracy
Hi!
>>I currently have a tennis ball drying out in the dish rack. She put it in the water bowl
Ha! So funny!!
>>She likes hiding balls.
A good brain game for her is to hide things and have her find them – for example, put out a bunch of things like upside down bowls, upside down boxes… and hide a ball or treat under one of them. You can then help her find it, using her brain and her sniffer 🙂
>>We played with the resilience game. No distractions though, being out in the yard, on lead, was distracting enough today. So that will be a good one to continue. Never having read it before, I recently read Leash Uncontrolled a couple weeks ago.>>
Yes! I believe this pattern game is referred to as ‘back and forth’ in Control Unleashed (or the ping pong game) and it is incredibly useful! Practicing at home will make it easier for when you take it on the road 🙂
Tracy
I am glad you are feeling better!
The marker for a reward being thrown back to the pup has been really helpful for rewarding stationary positions from a distance, like stays, stopped contacts, etc. I use it in moving contexts too but the stopped position context has been the most useful 🙂
Tracy
Hi!
Look at her being brilliant and getting on the plank as soon as you put it down. Super!!
She looks balanced in her standing and was very happy to offer a sit! She was also really working to get into a tight sit, with all 4 feet under her on the board without a foot dropping off the side. That is hard but she showed lovely hind end awareness as she was making the adjustments. And turning around went well too!The hardest part was chewing the cookie, that took the longest LOL!
Since she did so well here, my suggestion is that you add arousal in the form of tugging beforehand. That teaches her to think about her body even when she is in higher arousal – which is a great skill in dog sports!
And you can also elevate this plank by putting it on blocks or anything stable to lift it off the ground a bit more.
Backing up also looks terrific! Happy dance! She is using her feet independently and backing up relatively straight to ‘find’ her destination.
How does she feel about wobble boards and moving objects? If she thinks that wobble board is fine and dandy, then you can start getting her to back up to a moving board. Make the movement of the board really minimal (you can stuff towels or something under it so it doesn’t move a lot), and have her hop on it forward so she knows it will be moving – we don’t want to surprise her if it suddenly moves under her back feet.
She is doing well with the drive to handler/decel and pivot too! Because she is so small, try to bend lower to present the magic cookie, so she doesn’t have to lift her head up to decelerate (it makes the mechanics of collection harder, because it is harder to weight shift into her rear when she is reaching up). I think the ideal magic cookie hand position would be just below your knee.
The pivots are looking really strong! You are moving nice and slowly, so she is able to turn nice and tight next to your leg.
You can definitely add in the next part with the toy throw and the go go go at the end 🙂
>>She definitely wants to run away with the tug. >>
You can try having it on a really long line or tie the toy to another long toy, so she has some freedom with it but you have the other end of it – and so she can’t take it on any victory laps 🙂 Then, you can help encourage her to bring it back and reward her when she does. And yes, I would love to see video so we can figure out how to best help her bring it back 🙂
I also like to start retrieves in a very small room (I have done them in bathrooms sometimes too LOL!) so that the smaller space eliminates options for running off and that way there is ore of a chance she will bring it towards you.
Great job on these! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi!
Looking at the tug-sit-tug video: this is all about arousal regulation and he did really well. Yay!!
The chatter during tugging – all good! And hilarious LOL!
Great job being quiet and patient when he had to figure out what to do when you stopped tugging – nice sits!
It was a hard game for him, mentally, because he was struggling to let go of the toy for a bit but then he was able to do another sit. You added a little bit of a stay at the end, and you released before he moved – super! For now, keep the stays super short so he can be successful and doesn’t start offering other stuff (like jumping up LOL!)
Plank work:
>>You may want to shut of sounds lol I tend to chatter a lot >>
Chatter and singing before the shaping is great! While he is on the plank, be quiet and talk less because he looks up at you and stops offering. Then you can get loud and silly again after you release him off the plank to play.
He did a great job getting on immediately! Hooray! And he was great about going back and forth between the food and the toy. He seems like a confident little dude 🙂 And he was able to offer sits and also some reps where he had all 4 feet on.
If you have another plank, you can put them together side-by-side so that he has a wider plank to get on. That way he can immediately get all 4 feet on, and also work on turning around while keeping all his feets on 🙂
Great job here!!
Tracy
Hi!
The home wrapping session went really well! I love the singing LOL! The inflatable in the laundry basket was clever 🙂
To get him on the tug right away, the better toy certainly helped and picking up the food bowls will help too!
At the club – yes, there were more distractions but he did really well! It is especially hard with the loud dog barking! Try to be more quiet when he is offering: no helping LOL! But then you can be loud and silly during the tugging 🙂
His only question on that clip was whether to go behind you or stay in front. My guess is that was partially because of the distractions and partially because it was easy to go behind you. So you can stand with your back to the gate so it is harder to go behind you and easy to stay in front.
He was not quiet as engaged with the tug at the end of the 2nd video – partially because the food bowls were still present and partially because the environment was distracting. So you can bring out the highest value craziest toy when you are at the club and see if that helps! He really liked the crazy toy you used at home, and you might need an even crazier one at the club with big barking dogs nearby.
Great job!
TracyHi!
Separately from any training games work on arousal regulation by having her tug for a few seconds, then trade the tug for a treat scatter. It seems really simple (because it is :)) but it “trains” her body to self-regulate internal arousal by stimulating the arousal, then using the food and sniffing to get her to go back to a more centered arousal state. Doing this every few days can really help!And when using a toy or even the ready dance in training, mix in snuffle mat or lickimat or treat scattering in the grass, to bring that arousal regulation into the training as well.
And because arousal regulation is mentally ‘expensive’ for puppies and they will get depleted and overaoused, definitely don’t do it everyday. Mix in days of really simple stuff in training, and days of no training 🙂
Keep me posted!
Tracy
