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Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterOn the opening, you ran straight for too long, so he thought you wanted the table and didn’t see the turn to the long jump – keep going when that happens. When you stopped, he jumped up (frustration behavior) so you will want to keep going and then fix the timing of the handling in the next run. The 2nd run looked really good! He was a little too close to jump 1 o dropped the bar, but you were clearer with your shoulder turn so he know to go to the long jump and not to the table 🙂
Great job!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterHe did well here too! He definitely is more relaxed – his jumping form is normal and not as ‘heads up’ as the trial where the environment is so much harder. Great job with the lines and weaves!!!!
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterThis run went even better The blind looked great and you had more converging pressure into the 2nd to last jump, which helped him pick up the line to the last jump.
Great job!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterWow! Look at him working the big distance line to let you get the blind! That ending line was hard – a ‘get out’ might work there, before he takes off for the 2nd to last jump, to get him to shift away to the last jump.
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
>>yes AKC will be the main venue. Thats why I like that we dont need a very structured routine- because what if the leash runner still have the leash in their hand (and we use 4H kids a lot) while watching and just forgets..>>
Exactly! I have had that happen with adult leash runners (the kid are usually great LOL!). And same with start lines – at the US Open today, I was on the line, leash off, ready to go… followed by a delay of a couple of minutes. No worries, we have a toolbox of things to do, so my dog still ran beautifully.
>>Is Sadie all business or volume dial? Granted she doesn’t need MORE speed as you say in volume dial- but she needs to focus and engagement. All business- I feel like she doesn’t need MORE arousal as her head will explode like in the herding example where her behavior got way way up there and she started to bark and become frantic.>>
The only way to know is to ask her! The answer can be counterintuitive 🙂 Try asking for an all-business start then see how she does, then play around with the volume dial start and see how she does!
T
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
She did well here! I think she was confused on the first rep when you were clapping and energetically praising… but staying there. So she started heading for the reward station. You were clear on the other reps, so she didn’t seem to have that question 🙂 Nice!Two things –
she might need a bigger plank to get on! She doesn’t easily fit, so she was mostly getting her front feet on it. So you can make it front feet only, or get a bigger plank so she can easily fit on it 🙂– to make it true remote reinforcement, you will want to take off the treat pockets and empty your hands/pockets. That will give s a truer picture of where she is, in terms of understanding how to work away from food and toys.
Great job here! Keep me posted about how she did in class!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
Thanks for the kind words! It will be a busy week for sure LOL!>> Her first run was quite successful. We didn’t have good sustained full engagement at the beginning,but she stayed with me on the course. After the last obstacle, she came in to find my face. >>
This is HUGE!!! Starting further from the distractions surely helped, plus all of the games you’ve been working on. A big win, because the first run has been hard for her!
>>Had more engagement at the start of the second run – direct eye contact. A great run for us and came to find my face at the end.
I brought our “chips” tin to class. She watched me put her cream cheese Toppl in it. At the end of our second run, I said “chips”. I really think she knew what I meant. She didn’t fuss about getting her leash on, went straight out with me and to the tin.>>This is also terrific! That mental “price” of that great first run was not too “expensive” for her, meaning she was not mentally tired so she came out STRONG and had a great second run. This is great!
>>I felt pretty darn good about it. I’m greedy and I want more engagement at the start of the first run.
You should both be feeling really good about it! I think you should start all of your first runs further from the crowd, to keep setting up the success you had here. You can be greedy, but be sure to set her up for success 🙂
Great job!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
>>Today in class we tried the tricks and tug to the line. She could tug and out. Also, Sprite could do the hand touch and then tug. >>
Yay! Good to know!
>>She could NOT spin while walking towards equipment. >>
Also good to know! We are information-gathering and this is all good.
>>On our first run the instructor asked everyone to take the leash off and just “be” with the dog like there was a tunnel adjustment or bar being set. You could do anything, but no toys or treats. >>
LOVE this!!! And today at the US Open, I was on the start line, leash off, leash runner had already taken it… and there was a big delay. Probably 2 or 3 minutes, which is a looooong time LOL! And of course, it was the one dog of mine that is sensitive about the pressure of start lines and most likely to melt (big delays never happen with dogs that are fully confident there LOL!)
We were there for a few minutes, so I just did some engaged chill. Then when we got the “go”, I did a quick verbal volume dial (“do you want a cookie?”) and the dog was great! My handling was not nearly a perfect as the dog’s behavior LOL!!
I mentioned it because it was a classic “toolbox” moment because I was literally ready to release the dog to start the course. So I was able to reach into my toolbox and help her, so she ran fast and happy!
>>So, I tried the engaged chill. Took her leash off and then just her in by my legs and petted her for my 30 seconds. Then, line up and go. She did pretty well with the line up considering it’s class. Plus, there was a dog behind her on a cot. >>
Love it! It is a great exercise, I am glad the instructor did it.
Looking at the first video – Sprite is very excited and in a state that is ready to run agility, but is able to stand still and look at the ring but not get overaroused. This is a good potential engaged chill! You can add a leash to it, and also be sure you practice looking around so you can look at the course and plan your handling.
Option 2 of her up on her hinds legs is a good short-term engaged chill. I agree that standing like that for a long time might be hard and might stretch out her muscles too much before a run (long stretches would be after a run, I believe, but I am no expert). So you can use it for a few seconds at a time – such as 10 seconds while you look at the course to remember your handling, etc.
These are good! Try them when other dogs are running, starting far from them, and see how she does!
Tracy
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
Yes, Tipsy might need a class session devoted entirely to her if you might end up feeling rushed.
>>We’ve been playing find my face and she LOVES IT!
Yay! I bet she likes the action and movement of it, plus it will give her something to do (find your face!) in case your handling isn’t perfect 🙂
>>I really think the Leash Off/Engagement on will be so beneficial for us. I do worry what happens as soon as the leash comes off and she’s loose to be feral!>>
This is a concern for just about everyone in this class, which is why I put the game in 🙂 Most folks are not really sure what would happen if they just went into the ring and took the leash off. That makes the humans nervous and that makes the dogs nervous then it all goes sideways LOL! So getting comfy with getting the leash off should really help.
Keep me posted!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
>In Goat Tricks 2: Movement and Noise you talk about pairing the noise with good things using a high value treat at a high rate to avoid fear response.
Is it right to use this tactic in other situations? >>
This is a great question! In a nutshell: yes. But, do it at a much bigger distance away from anything that worries her, so you might find yourself moving her away from any suddenly surprising or scary things.
>>Lissy has started barking when she encounters things she is not sure about. We worked a lot of noise desensitization weeks ago (fluffing a garbage bag, banging a door, vacuum cleaner, pots and pans on wooden floor). She did great with all of it. Now a few weeks later, when she encounters these same things, she barks.>>
This is normal for a lot of dogs, especially as they enter adolescence where the brain is re-wiring and developing.
But, we can help her! Yes, to using food and also take her on resilience walks where she can watch the world at a distance away from anything that might worry her.
In coming week, we ae going to start teaching a pattern game. This will be a HUGE help because it gives the pups a framework to assess the things that be worrisome, and relax about them. To prepare for that, practice your ‘get it’ marker with cookie tosses (easiest game ever!!!)
Keep me posted on how she is doing!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
I loved this session – so interesting! What I loved about it was that he did not do his usual thing, so you had to think on your feet in the moment to change plans. That is incredibly valuable because you went with the flow, you kept the rate of success high, and you got him to do his foot smacking on the styrofoam thing. Because of that, it was really an exceptional shaping session!
>>small Styrofoam cooler that something was shipped in. >>
What was shipped in it? It looked like he was offering scent work behavior, as if something really caught his nose and he was indicating it. Maybe the texture of the styrofoam or the weird sound played a role, and also it was taller so that might have played a role in him not lifting his feet. All of that, plus maybe an interesting scent – and you had to handle the surprising (in a good way) behavior he offered.
You can try cutting this box in half and see how he feels about touching the styrofoam? Or if you have a different styrofoam box, you can test the scent theory by seeing what he does with a different box.
Great job here!!! Let me know what you think!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
Lovely sessions here! Roux has really good body awareness already and a lot of confidence, so we can add extra stuff to continue building up the skills 🙂For the body awareness stuff – the main next step is to add more arousal so she can maintain the body awareness in a higher arousal state… just like she will be at a trial 🙂
Roux was very happy to make the upside wobbler move! She looked super confident so do you have a bigger wobble board where she can stretch out a bit? If so… get her to tug with you on the wobble board, keep the toy low so she can shift her weight back. If not, using this wobbler, you can tug before she gets on, reward with food, then tug (it is a little too small for her to tug on).
The training plank work looked good too – getting on it, backing up, turning around… easy peasy! So add tugging before and after each cookie reward too, to get the body awareness strong in higher arousal too.
Backing up – she is doing well here too so yes…. Add tugging 🙂 The toy can be the reward! When using your cookie hand as a focal point or the toy, you can lower you hand a little bit (maybe 6 inches) so that her head is slightly lower. It doesn’t need to be much lower, but a little lower will help her back up even more fluidly. If her head is too high, she might end up pushing off her front and bouncing a bit.
Trading toys and getting them – all good! Do you have a ‘grab toy in hand’ marker? She is a powerful tugger so I think you will want one so she knows to look for the toy in your hand and NOT accidentally get your flesh (ouch!) For powerful tugging dogs, a “bite” or “strike” marker helps them know when to differentiate coming in to the hand for the toy, versus coming in much softer for a treat (I use “snacks” or “yeessssss” for that).
Toy races – she was surprised on the first one when you ran too but then she seemed very comfy with it! She was happy to drive way ahead which means you can now try toy races! Your goal in toy races (from games package 2) is to try to win, so you might have to cheat a little 🙂 It will help her dig in even more!
Upright wrapping is going well – she TOTALLY liked the toys!!! And she was still precise and thoughtful, even in higher arousal. That is exactly what we want. Yay! You can stay closer to the upright for now, so she doesn’t have a difference in speed leaving you for the upright versus driving back to you (we want her speed to be equal). Adding distance too soon can get a bit of slowing down, so work this about 4 or 5 feet away for another couple of sessions – you can also build speed driving away from you to the upright by rewarding her with a thrown toy on the other side of the upright 🙂 She will like that!
And great job with the verbals there – those will be very helpful in the future!
Nice work here! Let me know what you think!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
I see what you mean about her being slippery LOL!!! She is very happy to drive forward to the toy and very speedy, so we can use this framework to work on some lining up and some gentle restraint to start the game.
It is about handler mechanics that feel comfy for you both. She didn’t like being physically moved into position, so we can work a line up into the game. Yes, your idea to put a harness on her is great! So what you can do is something like this: tug tug tug, trade for a cookie, line her up using the cookie as a lure (we can fade it pretty easily) and as she gets into position, put a finger under her harness to hold her. Then feed the lure cookie (make sure she swallows it LOL!) then throw the toy and race to it 🙂 You might find other variations that feel very comfy for you both, so feel free to experiment!
This will also help build in the back-and-forth between food and toys, which is also super useful for training.
>>We can get good distance but I still cannot follow/run after her. She will either go flat or leave the toy and run away.>>
You can stay at the walking/strolling level of motion for now 🙂 As she is driving ahead to the toy, you can very casually walk forward, not pressure on her line and not a lot of motion. We will build all that in over time – the smaller dogs often don’t appreciate the pressure of us humans running!
And you can ‘split’ the behavior of YOUR motion into just walking, then leaning forward as you walk, the leaning forward and moving your arms faster, and so on. That can gradually add the picture of you running while keeping her happy with it 🙂
Then when she gets to the toy, you can turn and run the other way so she might bring it back (but no worries if she doesn’t, we will work on the retrieve separately). But you running the other way should be really exciting so if she chases you, you can reward her for that 🙂
Great job here! Let me know how she does with the harness and lining up!
Tracy
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterGood morning!
The wrapping game is going well! No need to add more distance to it, we will start adding in cues soon as we add distance. You can move to the wrapping different things (see Games Package 2 for that).
He had a question about the beginning of the session – I think he mistook the first cookie for a down reward. You can either bring the bowls back in for the start of the session, or you can use a moving reward to get him started so he doesn’t offer a down.
Decel to handler is going well too! You can decel sooner so he can decel sooner too – note how he was popping up a bit as he arrived next to you. That was his momentum not quite having enough time to stop pr shift his weight into his hind end. So, even in a small space, start your decel no later than him being halfway too you (and getting your hand nice and low too :)) You can also take this game outside, to add more room to run for you both!
Driving ahead: so fun! Nice toy drive too! He was happy to leave you in the dust here 🙂
One suggestion about the start of each rep:
He doesn’t love it when you move him into position next to you by using your hands to move his body (he was a little mouthy and a little wiggly), so try to line him up without touching him (can be with a cookie lure) then hold him, then throw the toy.Take this one outside too to give yourself more room, then you can add in the toy races from Games Package 2!
Prop game – he loves his prop! Yay! For the ready dance – keep your feet still because if you take a step to the prop then yes, he was correct to go to it. So you can do the ready dance with just your upper body, then do the big step and arm send. Try not to say go because eventually we will be using turn verbals 🙂
He was great about going to it when cued, so you can add in using a toy and also add in the advanced level with sideways and backwards sending!!
Great job on these! Let me know what you think!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterGood morning!
He did really well here 🙂 What a cutie!!!
On the decel game: Moving super slowly helps him lock onto the cookie hand even more – be sure to keep that cookie hand very visible (rather than have it in front of you or tapping your leg) so he has a focal point. When the cookie hand was visible – he was perfect, great job keeping your hand low! When you didn’t have it visible, he was not as locked on or as sure of where to be – he was looking up and even popped up at once point.
For the toy play and driving ahead: moving the toy away always get engagement. He backed off when you moved it towards him, so keep moving it away to get the engagement (rather than pushing into him.
And because he is so young – release really quickly when he is looking forward. If you held too long, he was not sure of what to do (like at 1:00 approx, where you were adding more chatter and he lost his train of thought a bit :)) So you can line him up, throw the toy, and let him go to it as it is landing.
>we’re struggling a bit with the toy release (my boy can really clamp his jaws shut!!). So I added some food, which allowed us to work on the switch from toy-food-toy because that’s been really hard too.>>
Perfect! Working on toy-food-toy is a good thing to work on (there is some new info on that in the reward procedures in the Week 2 set of games). You can use lower value food (lowest value that he will release the toy for :)) and a higher value toy, if he struggles to go back to the toy after treats.Or, vice versa if he struggles to eat when a toy is present. He did really well here so I am sure you will be able to convince him to let go of the toy even more smoothly.
Great job! Let me know what you think!
Tracy -
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