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Hi!
>He is getting too big and pulls so hard. But that’s on leash so interesting that he would generalize it.>
Pups are excellent at generalizing things like locations/where the value is 🙂
> Is there something I should do differently on that side? Maybe not as far away or change up the distance to do easier and some harder?>
For the loose leash walking, make the cue very obvious with an upright posture and your arm bent with your cookie hand on your stomach. Your left-side training stuff can have an empty left hand, looser posture, swinging arms, more connection to his eyes – he will learn to differentiate the cues.
>Today is going to be break day. It’s nice out so we will go for a good walk. Maybe try the pattern game outside>
Have fun! Enjoy!
Tracy
Hi!
>helping him move more fluently through arousal states. I suspect in the not too distant future I’ll laugh at needing to work to increase his arousal.>
I consider this all to be Pre-hab for adolescence when the brain struggles to regulate arousal states LOL! It will all be fine 🙂
>(main goal for him is a nose smush behavior at the end of a high arousal run instead of going to his leash and grabbing it to prepare for UKI Invitational where there’s chaos and unpredictability at the ring exit where leashes should be +/- dogs lunging at their toys near Rip’s valued tug leash – we won’t be using a tug leash there). >
This is a good goal!!! And fingers crossed that there won’t be any tiny old ladies trying to carry the leash to you… I have memories of that from early in his NADAC career LOL
Looking at the video:
OMG! That is exactly the fake pulling at the beginning and later on that I was attempting to describe. And he was giving some good weight shift before he moved into being a Swiffer lol
He is already super excellent at the back-and-forth pattern. You can add moving around and having him on a leash, even at indoors at home just to keep the leash neutral and not paired with excited things 🙂
You can of course do this at the trial today – and you can also do the up-and-down version of it so you can bring the game into tighter spaces, closer to the ring. I take these 2 games everywhere at a trial site, with good food reinforcement, to keep practicing the engagement and environment assessment.
The only thing he had a little question mark over his head about was the grab it moments: he was putting his mouth on it but then didn’t seem sure of what to do once his mouth was on it.
I am thinking you wanted him to grab it and be able to tug with you? If so, you can let him ‘pull it out of your hands’ but letting go of it at the barest hint of any pressure from his mouth. Then you can increase the amount of pull on it he needs to do in order to win the prize, and soon enough he will be hanging off the toy and tugging hard 🙂He has brain-rattling hand touches – brilliant! Have you ever played the Cookies From Heaven game with the touches? For the dogs with great hand touches, it helps them keep their heads down and totally on task, even with cookie distractions above their head. It is one of my teeter foundation games: head down, weight shift, don’t look up , ignore distractions 🙂
You can start with the hand to the side, then eventually lower your hand so the palm is facing upwards. Here is a visual:
>(any suggestions if you see this before we’re done there?).>
The patterns and any of the other games are good – do I recall he is learning a lineup between your feet? That is a great one to do at a trial site. Or if he doesn’t know if yet, you can teach it 🙂
Have fun! Nice work here!
Tracy
The countermotion is going well!
>I started with the clicker and then ditched it, easier without, but then switched hands to toss the cookie lol>
Definitely easier without the clicker! And don’t worry about the cookie hands 🙂 as long as she gets rewarded, you can focus on the send and timing 🙂
She has a lot of value for the prop and is moving to it really well! When you used your leg to also point to the prop with your hand (like at 1:00 and the reps after it) her sends were very fast and snappy!
To be able to move away sooner, try starting further from the prop. If you are 6 or 8 feet from the prop, you can send her to it and see her moving to it, while you are already sliding the other direction 🙂 You were just a couple of feet away from it here, and like with the rear crosses: she is quick so you can give yourself more room to have more time to add the handling.
Nice work here!
Tracy
Hi! Rear crosses are hard! What was happening here was that you were late on the RC info – she was arriving at the prop while you were still visible on the original side, so she turned to the original side. Good job continuing to reward her, though! She didn’t get mad 🙂
To make it easier, two suggestions:
– you can move the prop further from your starting point, so you can more time to get to the new side. She is quick so you a few more feet will give you a little more time.
– You can start on a line that makes it easier for you to get to the other side quickly. Think of it as a clock: the prop is 12 o’clock, so you and Sunnie start at 6 o’clock. That can give you an easier path to get to to the new side (2 o’clock or 10 o’clock LOL)For the backing up:
Great job getting her front feet just barely off the mat!
Then when her front feet (and eventually back feet) are off the mat, you can let her offer more – let her step herself back onto it then you reward by tossing the treat between her feet & onto the mat.>Maybe the session went on a bit too long too?>
I think the session was a good length, not too long. What was happening here was that you were moving your hand towards her to get her to move backwards, so she was waiting for that hand movement which is why she was moving less (she seemed to think she needed to wait until you moved your hand).
That got the backing up going, but for the next session start exactly like you did here: but let her step her front feet back onto the mat without you moving a muscle 🙂 That will get her offering the behavior and not waiting for you to move your hand.
Nice work here!
Tracy
Hi!
Turn and burn is looking great! Nice job with the line on the ground – that really made you consistent with the timing of the FC and he was showing super commitment 🙂
You can add your wrap verbals now as you send him, so he begins to associate the verbal with the cue to wrap the barrel.
And keep moving the line on the ground closer and closer (in small increments) to the starting point at the barrel so you can continue to move away sooner and sooner.
>I tried three different toys – food pouch tug toy, the lotus ball and a black furry tug. You will see the results.>
Totally agree: the lotus ball is the winner! He seems to like the movement of it to chase, and the easy availability of the treats 🙂
>I would have to say that I think the food won though I do like the lotus ball. >
Food from your hand is useful in some setups but the lotus ball has more applications – you can throw it like you did here, and you can attach a line to it to use it for him to chase and grab(or for longer throws).
>At this point I am reluctant to use the toys for which there is little interest because I think it will dampen his enthusiasm for the work. On the side, not associated with these agility exercises, I will continue to work on toy play but at this point I think it is detrimental to mix the two.>
Yes, he is not as interested in the food pouch or the tug toy. Part of it might be that he needs them to be more active, dragging and squiggling around on the floor – not close to your hand or stationary – for him to chase/pounce on/grab.
Separately from a training session, try to change the play style of how you present the toy to him. We want to be able to use toys in training, and he has toy play drive, so it is a matter of sorting out how to make it fun during training.
For both the food pouch and the tug toy, either use one that is 3 or 4 feet long or tie several together to create a toy that is 3 or 4 feet long 🙂 Then start moving away and dragging it on the ground, moving it pretty fast away from him, getting him to chase it. He doesn’t seem to like it when it is close to his mouth and not moving, but dragging it might be a whole different level of fun 🙂
Let me know how it goes! Nice work here!
Tracy
Hi!
Yes, it has been really cool to hear about the tail-turn direction correlation!!
>It is really cool just training a dog with a tail – haha! It is such a big communication element.>
Ha! Yes, they use that tail for a LOT of talking 🙂
I see what you mean about him BIG noticing it! He actually noticed a couple of reps before: a :22 he sees it and gives it a wide berth on the way back to you. On the next rep, he takes a LONG time to eat the treat and come back (processing). It was then on the following rep that he spent quality time checking it out. Then he got right back to normal n t he game. Good job to you for letting him check it out, since he definitely had feelings about it! It was cool to see him assess it then dismiss it 🙂
Hello to the Bostons in the parallel path video! They seemed judgey, as if they could easily do it better LOL
>I may have treated for too low a criteria? But he seemed to do better as we went along.>
I agree that there were a couple of reps in the first part of the season where you rewarded a little too early (he was looking at you but not hitting the prop). You changed your timing to be a little later to be sure he got the prop, and also changed to the get it marker. All of that helped him – just be sure to be picky about what you reward, so he only gets rewarded for touching it and not going past it 🙂
The countermotion game is going great too!
>It was a challenge to move away before he started back towards me – he was moving fast.>
Totally agree – he has fast feet so you will need to start another step or two further away. And, start to move the other way as soon as he passes your foot on the send. It will also increase the difficulty because he will need to have more distance, but I think he can do it!
Great job here 🙂
TracyHi!
I totally see what you mean about the hesitation! He was startled by the bar rolling on the first video, so maybe he is being careful? Or, maybe the pressure of jumping towards the reward on the ground without being 100% sure that he can have it is causing the hesitation. I don’t think it was a serp issue, he seemed to know to come towards you but not past the jump.
I suggest an experiment 🙂
Take the jump out of the send-n-serp setup, and leave the bowl or toy on the ground. Send him around the barrel and move through the serp as if there is an invisible jump. Don’t say anything, just move 🙂 If it is a “can I have the reward” question, he will hesitate. If it is a “concern about the jump” question, he will go directly to the toy or bowl.
If it is a reward availability question, you can use your marker sooner. And you can move the reward closer to the jump. That will help!
If it is a jump concern question, you can do something like put the bowl right in between the jump uprights, or have the toy on a line and drag it over the bar for him to chase as he comes around the wing.
Let me know what he tells us when you try it! Nice work here – we will figure out his question 🙂
Tracy
Hi!
This session went really well – he was reading the Go versus RC versus backside wraps brilliantly! Well done to you for the clear cues and verbals!
I admit to laughing out loud at the “use your eyeballs” moment when you didn’t quite get connection at :34 so he didn’t get to your left side.
But shifting connection to the landing side was excellent eyeball use! I was impressed with how well he committed to the backside wrap turns as you were continuing to move forward. Excellent!! One suggestion there is to throw the reward behind you to the landing side more too, instead of throwing it as he completes the wrap. Landing side rewards will get even more independence.
Great job here! You can move on to the rear cross concept transfer!
Tracy
Hi!
The left wraps to the dish: easy peasy! The dish (Treat N Train) is easy to ignore 🙂
Her mind had to work harder for the wraps with the toy on the ground but she did it – only one blooper moment that you handled really well by making it no big deal, then helping her a little more on the next one. Yay!
I am guessing you thought she would run to the toy you threw is you let for go her collar. I think she totally might have!
So a fun thing to add here is to let go of her collar and give her food rewards for walking to the cone with you. You might have to start this by just putting the toy on the ground then rewarding her for walking away from it because throwing it might be too tempting at first 🙂
>Should we only do one direction at a time?>
You can work both directions! That can keep things from getting repetitive.
>ut she’s bringing it back to me! Progress>
Yes! She did great with that!!!
Nice work here! Let me know she does when you convince her to walk away from the toy on the ground (with fabulous cookies for ignoring it :))
Tracy
Hi!
>Yes, target practice…great for desensitizing but I can see how they’d be a distraction, even if she is not afraid.>
Yes – the puppy brain gets bombarded with all of these noises along with everything else, so she has to process it and that might delay processing other things like finding the ball. But I am super happy that she is not scared of the noises!
>Moving my hand out of my pocket & the treat into the other hand makes a lot of sense! I will give this another go with those tips; thanks for the pointers. I am excited to take on the back half of the games this week alongside more reps of parallel path >
Keep me posted! Have fun!
Tracy
Hi!
For the pattern game, we will be using it to introduce him to new environments and get him past anything that might be weird or concerning, as well as getting engagement in new places. With that in mind… we do not want the obedience front and eye contact criteria for this game 🙂 We just want engagement in any way especially because you and Rusty will both be moving during this game (not heeling, just moving). The front/eye contact is very easy to train when we have his engagement and he is comfy in the environment.
>the first time I tried this game and Rusty wasn’t quite sure what was up. I guess it seemed too simple to him so he was offering behaviors to earn his treats – quite cute – backups, spins, twirls, sits.>
You were probably getting the extra behaviors because you were waiting too long for the eye contact and he was not sure what you wanted. To help him engage but not offer other behaviors, you can mark him looking at you or towards you then toss the cookie off to the side so he move a few steps to get it. He does not need to be in front of you or making eye contact. He was able to offer looking at you more in this video, but that will be harder to do in more challenging environments.
For the next step, you can start moving back dnd forth in the room – I usually add a leash at this stage, because that simulates what will happen when we take it on the road 🙂
Nice work here!
TracyHi!
>Someone called me and it stopped my video without me knowing.>
They need to develop an app for phones that tells people “Do Not Disturb, She Is Training The Puppy” haha!
She did great on the raised plank! It is the perfect height, click/treat to you 🙂
You can change the reward placement a bit, rewarding her for staying on the plank and walking back and forth a bit, turning around, and the sits too.>I had trouble getting her to “down” on the plank. She doesn’t like the surface. She won’t down on my Cato board either.>
No worries then! You can add a towel or mat to the cato board and see if that is a more comfy surface for the down.
On the Master Wobbler video:
That was Ready Whip that you gave her ready whip for the reward? Brilliant! She was definitely happy to get on the wobble board LOL!!! The first reward was definitely a BIG surprise in the best possible way – VERY motivating!! Behold the power of ready whip! Even with fewer towels, then eventually NO towels, she was totally on board with getting all the way on it. LOVE it!!!Great job here and thank for making me laugh out loud with the giant Ready Whip reward 🙂
Tracy
Hi!
He did so great with the backing up with you standing! Super!
He is good at it, so you don’t need to move towards him at all: you can just stand still and pitch the cookie towards him. Moving towards him was lifting his head, and being stationary will keep his head position in a more natural and lower position.The parallel path is going really well, especially in a new location. And you were able to get some lateral distance added!
>He is still looking at me and not 100% hitting the object. Let me know if you have any tips for getting him to look forward more.>
The looking at you is mainly after he hits the prop, no worries about that because we move off the prop very soon and that is when we will easily get him to stop looking at you 🙂 The next thing you can do with the prop is put it further away so you can start right next to him, and he drives ahead of you to it. That will set up the rear crosses.
When he is not hitting it, like at :36, and 1:24, it was more that you were looking forward and disconnected from him, so he looked at you and missed the prop. When you were connected and looking at him, he hit the prop perfectly 🙂 So add in looking at his cute face as you move, and I bet the misses stop happening.
Great job here!!
Tracy
Hi!
>Do you have thoughts on what I should work on? We said the deceleration part 2 with go and maybe the parallel based on your feedback from today. Would the pattern game be too soon?>
Anything that you think he does well with at home and that you both enjoy is perfect for the rental! The environment will be a bit harder so keep the sessions to 90 seconds or 2 minutes to avoid him getting brain tired.
I do think the pattern game is perfect to bring to the rental, as well as any fast-and-fun wrapping or baby handling games.
He did really well with the parallel path game! He had a harder time on your left side – looking at you more. You might be putting a lot of value for walking on your left, maybe? So he might have thought that looking at you is more valuable (at first) then he remembered to go to the prop. He didn’t have that question on your right, he was happy to find the prop without looking at you as much.
You can also build in more tug breaks so he stays pumped up and the game is not too repetitive. That will get even more speed especially when you want him to drive ahead of you 🙂
Your timing of waiting for engagement was good with the pattern game! This game is one of the ways we get engagement in a new place, so waiting for him to look at you is key. He definitely liked it – check out how he started to wag his tail and engage faster once he figured out how fun the game is 🙂 The next step is to add a leash to this game, so he get used to engaging while on leash (and so you get comfy having the leash and cookies).
Great job here!
Tracy
Hi!
>’m going into our sessions without as clear a plan as I normally have with Ripley because I don’t know where our toy drive and food/toy switching will be day to day with Vibe.>
That is a really interesting observation! And I can totally see how that makes planning more challenging. From the view of getting to watch the videos, I think you are both doing GREAT.
>Some of it did show up but not super cleanly YET.>
To clarify, I am also a big fan of dirty training LOL! By that, I mean adding in arousal, goofy noises, not looping, etc is all good! I tend to look to avoid things that we might tell the pup they are wrong to do in the future – such as sending themselves to the prop or obstacle. So it is a bit of inserting that engagement to be able to cue starts more, and the rest can be fun fun fun and a bit wild/freeform in some ways. Being tooooo precise or loopy can suck the fun out of the puppy games.
I think we are totally on the same page, and the video lets us see different things in his movement and his thought processes 🙂
>Another milestone that might or might not be visible in the video, but we’ve got “ears up” this week – they’re big and adorable.>
OMG SO CUTE!!! They fit his face perfectly.
The handling games were a fun way to see how well he could go back and forth from food to toys to food. He did great and was happy to do all of the elements: driving away to the cookie, driving back to you, pivot, toy play: all look lovely! My only suggestion is to decelerate after the blind – if you didn’t decelerate, he was not prepared for the pivot and was a bit wide. When you did feel he was nice and tight to your leg.
It is fun to see how much he really loves the hugs-and-kisses interaction – that is going to be a fun thing to use in sport as well as a great relationship builder in life 🙂
For the taking-of-the-toy moment when you asked him to take the toy from your hand, you might need to be out of hugs-and-kises position 😂 he was like “why take toy when we can do hugs-and-kisses?” LOL!
Having the toy off to the side was a bit clearer and you an also sit on something low, just to present a different picture.
Retrieving went really well and he got the hugs-and-kisses reward too as part of that 🙂
He loved the long toy at the end! You can get more hind end weight shifting (like he did when tugging with Ripley) by ‘fake pulling’ on the toy so he can really pull back. What I mean by ‘fake pulling’ is using a hand-over-hand motion and sliding your hands up the toy, so it looks like you are really pulling on it (but you are only adding a little bit of toy tension). He will likely see it as really pulling and will tug harder with a good weight shift. I have a video *somewhere* of the fake pulling if the description doesn’t make sense 🙂
Great job here!
Tracy
