Forum Replies Created

Viewing 15 posts - 91 through 105 (of 20,711 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • in reply to: Ninette and Dublin (working) #92023
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Good morning!

    >I did try a stay outside the ring before class and he didn’t do as well. Thinking I need to work the stays in more locations a little too. >

    You can take the early stages of the cookie toss stays into new environments to help transfer the understanding.

    There was some good madness happening behind him in class (good experience!) and the instructor holding 2 jumps bars is a different visual – he did great!

    He was really good about bringing the toy back too! Many puppies would just take off with it and run around but he was great about bringing it directly back to you. His tunnel skills are looking super! In a class setting, when trying to get him going straight out of the tunnel, you can ask the instructor to throw or drag the toy after you send him to help him drive ahead. The placed toy is good (he already knows how to drive to it, thanks to toy races:)) but he will LOVE a moving toy 🙂

    >You will love his accidental wing wrap. Already starting with my handling errors>

    Ha! You can totally reward those moments – he was a good boy!

    >At the end he was a little unsure about cart in the ring.>

    Helllooooooo, adolescence! That is a totally normal adolescent behavior, especially after using a lot of brain juice in his turn there. And he is right at the age where he is beginning to enter adolescence. I mean, the cart IS weird! And young adolescent dogs might respond with concern to something even if they had seen it all before… adolescent brains are wild LOL

    You can help him out in those moments if you see him questioning something in the environment: pattern game! That is a perfect time to whip out some cookies and do a bit of that back and forth pattern game near the cart until he assesses it and begins to ignore it. It will take maybe 20 seconds but totally worth it 🙂 He is excellent with the pattern game (like you can see in the next part of the video) so a useful application is when he sees something weird (or if you see something that he might think is weird).

    Great job here!!

    Tracy

    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Good morning!

    >I used a medium length tug toy for a few reps before he got too work focused. >

    This is one of the reasons why I love to video everything! It was a cool video to watch from that angle, because we can see what he likes as play which is harder to see during the actual play. I think that toy choice and the dragging movement was a winner for most of it! He just needed a few more moments in each tug session to find a good grabbing spot for it. That is hard to see in the moment when you are up close and playing but easier to see from a distance on video.

    From the video angle, he was really engaged with the toy but trying to find the best stop for grabbing/pulling – giving him a little more time without pulling it out of his mouth will get great tugging. It is definitely a fine line because we want to move the toy but we also want him to find a gapped grab spot and don’t want to pull it out of his mouth. A long toy that is soft everywhere might be best for these puppy stages? If he had a fully adult mouth, I think this toy would be perfect because he could grip it better. But he had no question marks over his head about playing – he seemed all in!

    At 1:00 you dropped the toy, then you got low and presented it to him: that is currently not a play style with the toy for him. The toy ended up moving towards him at 1:06 and that was when he stopped moving towards you, then walked away to sniff when you presented it to him. Excellent feedback, young man!
    I do not think there was a work focus overriding the play there, he was fully engaged with you and not looking at the obstacles -it was more that the toy in that moment was not eliciting play because the toy was too ‘dead’ and moving towards him too much. The look on his face when you moved it towards him was hilarious – “that was weird, human!” I bet if you stopped up and ran away with it, he would grab it 🙂

    So the dragging toy it is – apologies for the running and sweating as you drag the toy LOL! Big, long, fuzzy, grabbable 🙂 with a few extra heartbeats as you move it to let him find the grabbable spot. Then you can do the hand-sliding of the fake-ish pulling so he can really pull back.

    >Also a tiny bit of squeaky ball to see how he felt about that. I don’t plan to use thrown balls with him but wanted to see how he felt about the noise and rolling to overcome his work focus.>

    He was interested in it – grabbed it AND brought it back! You can do some arts and crafts by putting a ball inside a hollee roller which makes it better for rewarding (attaching a line to it makes it super fun) wile still retaining the value of the ball. Balls are generally very valuable but I worry about dogs slamming themselves when chasing balls. I do use balls as rewards sometimes but only after the dogs have had a lot of experience *not* splatting themselves. to get the ball 🙂

    >We did a few barrel tunnel wraps including a couple of backward sends. A few reps my connection was crappy and he found the wrong side of the tunnel but all good bonus points for the effort that took. >

    Yes! In general the handling looked great and he was fast and focused on the lines. There were 2 reps, I believe, where the connection was not clear and he had to freestyle a line. THANK YOU for rewarding that for real, because he was being fast & confident with the info he had and we want to support that!!!

    >I’ll use more of the opposite arm exit line connection with him in the future from Rip’s class.>

    Perfect! And you can decelerate at the barrel at first, so he can see it and lock into it, to help the connection override motion. Then it will be easy to bring back the full running.

    >We also did some Startline work. We’ve done this a bit away from agility at home and away from equipment at trials so this was in the ring with our parallel path set up.>

    Looked awesome! You had a nice, easy warm up into it and since he was looking so good, putting the stay in front of the jump was ideal. He easily released to the jump.

    He did give one bit of feedback at 3:37 when he left the stay position when you re-connected after the lead out, before the verbal release. So in the spirit of “puppies are never wrong” and “the human didn’t do anything strange there”, I scrolled back to watch the other releases to see why he thought your reconnection was the release.

    Looking at the previous leadouts (2:28, 2:39 2:46, 3:01, 3:15), the release or reward marker/throw can either simultaneously with the full re-connection, or within a second of it. So it makes sense that he quickly tied the re-connection into the release. Smart pup!

    For the next stay sessions, separate the re-connection when you get to your lead out spot from the release by adding praise, adding delays, and sometimes mixing in staying connected the whole time as you lead out so there is no reconnection moment getting paired with releases.

    >Also, including some clips of Vibe getting to play with his 2 Tulsa littermates that he hasn’t seen since he left Canada (including 1 who belongs to the facility’s dog diving instructor – it will be obvious which pup that is). Our “get measured/podium training” at trials paid off when he came time for a group pic. >

    That was absolutely adorable!! What a fun group!!!! The group photo is a adorable 🙂

    Where is your next travel adventure? Heading over to Chicago? Great job here!

    Tracy

    in reply to: Danielle & Macklynn #91972
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Hi!

    I hope the next few weeks are easier – it is hard when life gets in the way of playing with the puppy!!!

    Video 1 – She did well here on the rotated sends! She had a question right at the beginning, but that was more about her needing to have a clearer line up before the send. On the other reps, you lined her up on the side you want her to move away from, then sent – and it worked great! Those were smoother cues and she was more than happy to start moving to the barrel

    When you went to the sideways sending, she defaulted to turning left on both sides. No problem, we can convince her to turn to her right as well 🙂 When you are sideways and sending from your right side (which is the side closer to the barrel), you can be closer to the barrel and also closer to side of the barrel you want her to go around, so she doesn’t slip in and do a left turn 🙂

    She had a bit of trouble on the right turns on the backwards sending at first, but you were in a good position right near the barrel, so the easiest line around the barrel was to the right. It took her a moment then she was able to easily execute it by the end.

    Video 2:
    These had the sideways sends at the beginning and you can see the first one was a left turn – basically, a threadle wrap 🙂 where she slid in between you and the barrel. This is where you can be closer to the barrel and indicating the other side of it so she turns right. That position works really well when you are sending backwards – she only had one instance of offering the left turn when you wanted the right turn, but you helped her out by getting a little closer and re-sending.

    The blooper was SO FUNNY! She loves the lineups 🙂 One thing that will really help is taking a very big step back to the wing, just as she is passing you. You were taking a little step back but it was actually too early so she didn’t really see it as a cue. So your feet can be toggery til she gets to you, then you can give a big step back to the barrel along with the arm send and looking back at it.

    She does love her parallel path game too!! She did a great job finding the jump in both directions even when you added more lateral distance. SUPER!

    You can add 2 things to this now:
    – you can move faster 🙂 Try a fast walk and if she still finds the jump, you can jog. If that is easy? Run! Fun!

    – you can throw a toy instead of treats. You won’t get as many reps because it takes a little longer to play tug and get the toy back, but it will amp up the fun of the game and she will probably really love it.

    >We did take the resilience game out to the bike trail/lake down the road – but we needed to bring it back to somewhere with less distraction. >

    Is she great at it in lower distraction places? If so, you can bring it to the bike trail/lake, but use insanely high value food (or even a toy) and be further from the things that will challenge her. You might be using meatballs and 50 feet from the distractions, but if that is where she is relaxed and successful? Cool! That will make it easier for her to handle the environment.

    >Her choice lately is to bark at people>

    It isn’t really a choice, it is more of a reflexive response. The part of the brain that drives the barking like this (especially at this age) is not the good decision-making part of the brain (prefrontal cortex), it is mainly driven by the survival part of the brain (amygdala) which is probably saying to her body something like: OMG WE ARE NOT SAFE CAN’T GET AWAY MUST BARK!

    It is similar to the response I had when I was walking down the street and a giant rat 🐀 jumped out in front of me and ran across the street. I totally shrieked LOL!!! It was not a conscious choice, it was my brain trying to make sure I survived 😂 Thanks, amygdala!

    > and I have a hard time redirecting. >

    Because she is unable to redirect, that indicates she is too close to the trigger. Distance is your friend! Being MUCH further away really helps her be able to not bark and also will help her recover faster from something startling when it appears in the environment. Adolescent dogs take 2 times longer (or more!) to recover from something than adult dogs do.

    >Some have indicated that she may be resource guarding me>

    It is unlikely to be resource guarding, based on the context, the response, and her age/breed.

    >some think it’s fear>

    Yes, this is more in line with what it likely is. Fear/anxiety especially with fast moving things or triggers suddenly appearing. The resilience game really helps but be sure to do it at a distance so she can actually eat and process the triggers. If she is barking and/or cannot eat, you are too close to them and she is over threshold. If that happens, rather than try to redirect – just move her further away so she is not as close to the triggers that are concerning her.

    That can also include going to the bike trail at weird times so there are far fewer people/bikes/etc around, or going to places that are less populated in general.

    >And my new tunnel bags came in this week! So we finally get to go back and pick up the tunnel game this weekend >

    YAY!! She will love the tunnel games 🙂

    Nice work here! Have fun!

    Tracy

    in reply to: Ziv and Beverley (working) #91971
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Hi!

    It is definitely a harder game because it focuses more on independent offering and takes out your physical cues. But it is very worthwhile and he did well!

    One thing to focus on are your verbals in the session. Don’t talk to him when he misses – stay silent. Talking to him after a miss was pretty animated, and draws his attention to you and away from the mat. The silence and no cookie gives plenty of info 🙂

    Add more of a verbal when he does hit the mat. A clear marker after he hits the mat will help get more mat hitting. You were either quiet when he hit the mat, or said ‘yes’. Instead, consistently use a ‘get it’ marker so he knows there the reward will be placed (out ahead of him). A ‘yes’ marker does tell him he was correct but doesn’t provide info about where the treat will be – a ‘get it’ marker will do both of those and if really helpful for getting more independence.

    Nice work here!
    Tracy

    in reply to: Rusty and Sally (working) #91970
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Good morning!

    He definitely likes the parallel path game and he did great!!! Hopefully your weather continues to improve so you can take this outside and add more distance laterally. Two suggestions to keep him looking ahead and looked onto the jump as you add more and more distance:

    – use a ‘get it’ marker instead of yes because it will be more specific about where the reward is (ahead of him) so we don’t glance at you.

    – you can start to reward (mark then toss the treat) even sooner now. As he is on the way to the jump, you can say ‘get it’ then throw the reward. That begins to reward commitment rather than arriving at the jump, so he will lock onto the jump even sooner and continue looking forward to the line.

    Great job here!

    Tracy

    in reply to: Rusty and Sally (working) #91969
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Hi!

    >Though accurate, he was a bit less animated in this sequence. >

    He committed really well here!! This game will appear less animated because it is a collection game and requires slowing down, as opposed to the parallel path which is all about the run run running 🙂 Plus this game requires him to tune out your motion in the other direction to finish his commitment and he did a great job here!!

    >Let’s just say that it was done following Parallel Path Commitment at the end of a long day that involved his going to obedience class and then waiting while his sister had class too. I think he understands the task>

    He had a busy day!! I agree that he understands. And I think he did really well!

    For this game, you can add in looking back to the barrel as you send him, letting him see a big head turn as you look at it which will really support commitment.

    Nice job with the ready game – he was shifting from handler focus to barrel focus brilliantly!

    And when the weather is good enough to do it – take the barrel outside! The environment will probably be harder, so start with very simple forward sends so he ‘sees’ the barrel in the new location. If that is easy, you can switch to the sideways and backwards sends too!

    Great job 🙂 


    Tracy

    in reply to: Ninette and Dublin (working) #91940
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Hi!

    > For the stay with toy should I click or not use clicker for that anymore either?>

    I think his stay skills are advanced enough that you don’t need the clicker anymore.

    > And I assume I don’t move yet. Just maybe count in head to 2 or 3 then increase duration?>

    I think you can move a step or two… but not as much as you can with food. And if I am wrong and he struggles then yes you can make it easier and not move 🙂

    >RC would the next step be adding prop target?>

    Yes – you can bring it in by putting it where you tossed the cookie, toss a cookie to it, then do the RC. If that goes well, send to the target instead of tossing the treat.

    Keep me posted!

    Tracy

    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Hi!

    >We are definitely still figuring out toy play in the presence of equipment. He tugs like a beast at home, outside the ring at trials, and various places as we travel, but once the opportunity to work is there he really loses interest right now.>

    I think he was interested in tugging – but was not quite sure how to get it started. So you can try a big long toy and when he gets to it, you can grab the other end and keep the game going by letting him chase it and grab it then tug 🙂

    He was a star at the seminar! The games were easy for him. You can add turn and burn exits (peeling away ar 90 degree angles) because that is a happy surprise and will get him even tighter on the wing wrap 🙂 The countermotion cookie game is also a place you can add in toy play: as you run away, you are dragging the toy behind you so he can chase it and tug tug tug. That is actually more of a flyball-style of using the toy but it helps get amazing speed in agility too (and gets the pups locked onto the toy even when food and/or work are easily available 🙂

    Great job!

    Tracy

    in reply to: Juli & Scotch #91938
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Hi!

    I think the ‘away’ arm will be super useful for you to be able to cue his distance skills while you go the other direction 🙂

    On one jump: he was a superstar, moving to the jump when cued but staying on the line past it when you didn’t cue the away. Yay! He had a couple of bloopers with that when your arms were moving a lot (plus he loves the jump :)) When you arms were in normal running mode he had no questions.

    He had one blooper on the away at 2:58 – I think 2 things happen to cause that as compared to the other reps:

    * You were further ahead on that one

    * Your arm was up but you were not really looking at him
    When you had more direct eye contact, he got it. So when you are way ahead, be sure to look back at him as you cue the away with the outside arm so he really sees the turn of your shoulders.

    Great job here! He is ready for the sequences with this skill 🙂

    Tracy

    in reply to: Juli & Scotch #91937
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Hi! These looked fabulous! You really nailed the exit line arm use and his lines looked wonderful!

    Sequence 1 – The exit line arm was great. Trust his commitment and start the cross sooner: when he exits the tunnel and looks at the jump, start the cross 🙂 You started the cross on both reps when he was taking off for the jump, so he landed long and turned after landing.

    Seq 2: the exit line arms went great here too! That got him turned really well 3-4 and set up for the wrap exit of 4. Great connection on the line back to the tunnel! You can start the cross earlier here too – he has great commitment so I bet he will have no trouble if you start when he exits the tunnel, as long as you stay connected.

    Sequence 3: So nice!!! On the first rep, you started your cues earlier here so the cross was almost finished when he took off. And the exit line arm sealed the deal of a super tight turn. On the 2nd rep, you trusted him even more and started the FC even sooner. That timing plus the lovely exit line arm set up a gorgeous turn! Wowza!

    Seq 4 went well too – the timing on the first FC at jump 3 (:09) was not as good as on the previous sequence. Because you were still facing forward as he was approaching the jump, he jumped a little long there. The exit line arm showed him the next line really well! For the wrap on 4, to get a better line back to the tunnel: after you finish the FC, you can use a wrap brake arm to get BIG collection. His commitment is strong so I think he will be just fine if you used the opposite arm for that. The exit line arm really helped him find the line to the tunnel!

    Seq 5: He did well here with the tunnel exit! If you want to get an even tighter turn, you can use soft brake arms before he goes in. The exit line arm made the next line super obvious to him. Super!

    Great job here!

    Tracy

    in reply to: Brittany, Kashia, and Kastella #91934
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Hi!

    >today she was pretty tired from a 15-mile run, so the fact that she still was interested in participating in agility was a bonus!>

    15 miles, that is impressive! Yes, she was a good girl to still want to do agility 🙂 but you’ll get more speed before the run 🙂

    One overall thought: you are doing a really great job with your connection! You are showing the girls really good eye contact so they are finding their lines really well. SUPER!!!

    The tight wraps went really well in both directions at the beginning. Lovely tight turns with your brake arm and also clear exit line arm made perfect sense to her. The backside wrap was also beautiful.

    The exit line connection was really clear on the front crosses too!

    Kastella definitely drives the lines harder than Kashia but interestingly, she is more responsive to the brake arm cues. At the beginning, I thought the brake arms actually slowed her down too much but maybe she was just sorting out what they meant. After about 1:30, she kicked it into higher gear and did NOT slow down too much – she set up really nice turns too! Yay!

    You did a great job with the exit line arm with her too. At 2:01 and 2:07, for example, as you were doing the FC, the exit line allowed you to make great connection and she picked up the line beautifully.

    For both girls, you can spread out the distances even more – you can aim for 24 feet or so between obstalces. That will get them really running like at a trial 🙂

    Great job here!

    Tracy

    in reply to: Kirstie and Bandit #91933
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    You should now be able to see the upcoming MaxPup 3! The class listing is posted but the content has not started yet 🙂

    T

    in reply to: Cathy and Mojo #91932
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Hi!
    This went really well too – the timing of turning him away first then you turning too after he turned was spot on! You can let him see the turn hand for longer as you slow down, so he is ready to turn away.

    Before adding this to the barrel (which is the next step), you can decide which hand you want to use: dog-side hand, or outside hand along with the dog-side hand. Both will work really well! I think using the outside hand helps the pups see it better but it really comes down to handler preference.

    Great job!!

    Tracy

    in reply to: Cathy and Mojo #91931
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Hi!

    Good job getting the threadle wrap started with turning him away! This is a cue that you can use the outside arm, kind of like the tandem turns on the turn away games – the outside arm works well with this because we end up decelerating into the cue, so we don’t have to worry about running fast 🙂

    When he was turning really well, you were decelerating (or already stationary) and that helped a lot. When you were having trouble getting him to turn away, it was because you were in steady motion which made it hard for him to be prepared to turn away. So as you add in more motion, remember to decelerate to help him prepare for the turn.

    Nice work!

    Tracy

    in reply to: Cathy and Mojo #91930
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Hi!
    Thanks for changing the settings!

    The threadle slices are going well – he is understanding to come in to the threadle side then go back out to the jump. Super!!! He also found it from the harder angle. Good boy!

    You were saying that you were not sure if you were doing it right – your position near the entry wing and your connection was great! Some reps had the dog side arm extended, some reps had the cross arm (opposite arm) cueing the threadle. That is probably why it felt less comfy – when you decide which arm you want to use, it will feel better 🙂

    The easiest way to do it is with the dog-side arm extended, similar to the serp arm. This is what you did at 1:15 and it worked great! The dog-side arm is generally easier because we humans can run better with just that arm out 🙂 And you can hold it out as he comes in AND until he goes to the jump bar. The arm is the cue for both!

    The cross arm is an option (like at 1:51) – but it is generally harder to run with it up, so over the years we faded it out in favor of the dog-side arm and smoother running.

    Nice work here!

    Tracy

Viewing 15 posts - 91 through 105 (of 20,711 total)