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Hi again!
Another great session here with the Decel and turn. Berners have so much power that we need to teach her how to control it as she decelerates into a turn – she did a great job here!
She also has great food drive, I love it! Is she able to go back and forth between food and toys? If so, you can use food to help reinforce the out of the toy (she was not sure fast about giving it back in the previous video) but if the toy drive reduces when food comes out… then don’t introduce food into the toy games, we can build up the out by using toy rewards.The decels and pivots look super strong. She works so beautifully and is so physically coordinated that I had to keep checking that she was only 6 months old. She is so cool!!! 2 suggestions for you:
For the agility pivots, you can get your cookie hand lower (more down at your knee or just below your knee) to keep her head lower. This will translate to better turns and focus forward on the obstacles and not as much looking up at you (if you also train obedience where we would want her looking up more, you can feed higher).Her pivots looked awesome, very bendy!!! This was especially nice when she was on your left side (bending to her right) also really good without the cookie in your hand. Super!!! She is not quite as bendy to her left – she is good to the left and GREAT to the which just means she is a righty 🙂 and might also mean that you have worked her on your left side (turning to her right) more. So when pivoting to her left (she is on your right) go more slowly so she can work the bending mechanics, and be sure you are doing plenty of reps on that side. When she is in your left to turn to her right, your speed was really good and you can try to go a little faster on that side too!
Great job here! I think you can add more distance on this game too – throwing the treat even further away so she is coming at you with more speed and will have to work her deceleration a bit more.
Have fun!
TracyHi! Hope you had a lovely Thanksgiving!
>>Just sending one to be sure I did this correctly. If not, I’ll need to rent a 5 year old!>>
Ha! Totally relatable – My 5 year old niece is far more tech smart than I am.
She is SO FUN and I love her toy drive!!! Great job here with this session, you structured it brilliantly:
Great play, then you tossed it and watched her, and let before se looked back at you. PERRFECT! And your tugging with her is super fun, she is really engaged with you and the game.
When you added motion on the 2nd to las rep, she looked at you a little but then was fine on the last rep, driving ahead of you beautifully – so keep adding your motion and throw the toy further so you can really run. She is ready for you to move to the next step (posted last Tuesday) where you get to race her a bit 🙂 Also, this is a good game to take on the road – the more we can generalize it, the better! She seems pretty mature, mentally, for a 6 month old pup which is great because we will be able to add things really quickly.Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi there!
Goat games:
Knowing a little more about Dellin now, I think there were too many cookies in a row here at the beginning of the goat games video – and I am pretty sure she did not swallow that first one LOL! She did swallow it when she swallowed the 2nd one.
The flow of the session was much better when you got the toy involved! There is nothing funnier than watching a border collie chew to make sure they swallow the treat LOL! Great job with that and getting the toy involved more. Having the toy involved gets her really exciting for the goat games, so you can even have her get on and release directly to the toy. Her confidence seems perfectly fine and she seems very happy to put her feet on stuff, and she likes the action – so we can use this type of game to slide in more cookie value!>>I have been working on wing wrap foundation to get a system for rewarding. >>
Perfect! And basically, everything we do involves finding a system for rewarding: we either apply existing reward systems to the behavior we want, or we install a desired skill into a loop or pattern of reward system. It makes training the beasts SO much easier 🙂
With the bowls and cone, she almost looked like she was enjoying the food! LOL! You didn’t have to spend as much time watching to see if she swallowed it haha! When she offers to go back to a bowl that has a cookie in it and eats the cookie: bring out the tug toy. She doesn’t need to do many in a row, but that offer of going back to a bowl with the – ewwwwww – cookie in it is HUGE!!! This can fit into the master plan of building food drive 🙂 In that moment, she is choosing to offer behavior with and for food, so you can reward her heartily with the toy.
And we can gradually slide the cone further away til it is about an arm’s length away (might take a couple of sessions) then we want to get you standing.
>>And I’m letting her win the toy and playing a little differently. I’m thinking this would be a good place to use the hollee roller for chasing. I may try that next session.>>
Perfect and perfect! What I am finding really happy-making here is that you are able to train with food and she is not looking sad about it 🙂 It is not nearly as expensive to train with food as it was initially, you are doing an awesome job of raising value!!! It is progressing really quickly.
If you have time and a place to do it – take one of these easy, action-type behaviors and go somewhere else so you can transfer the food value to new environments. Even if it is a different room in the house, it will be worthwhile to generalize eating as a reinforcement.
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi! Thanksgiving here was nice and quiet 🙂 Hope you had a good one too!
For the toy play, you can do ‘all the wrong’ things like let her win, let her run around, let her try to grab it a little from your hands…. that builds toy drive and then it is easy enough to install markers, retrieves and out procedures on top of that. She was pulling really hard here!! And for the out, you can build the toy drive and get the out by giving the toy right back after a retrieve or out. If you take the toy away to get to ‘work’, you might accidentally de-value the toy play.
My Contraband pup thought this video was FUN, he liked your noises and wanted to join. That is good!!! Normally he sleeps through everything, so it is a compliment that he liked your video lol
For the baby goat work: easy peasy! SHe was great about getting right on the Cato board. Working on the Cato board causes her to compress because it is small, so you can make a bigger playing field for her so she can extend a bit – if you have 2 Cato boards, you can put two of them together for more space (or any two things – Cato board plus fit bone or something 🙂 )
One mechanics suggestion: get the cookies ready before you put the board in, so that you can click and then deliver the treats faster… mainly so she doesn’t sit. And if she does sit… toss the treat off to the side so she doesn’t think of this game as a stay game. We will want her to be standing on the planky and goaty stuff and not defaulting to a sit. Now, if the Cato board is intended to have her default to a sit – you can use something other than a Cato board for her to goat around on 🙂
The phone alarm was a little distracting at the end but I don’t think she was worried. Good job pairing it with treats!
Nice work here! Let me know what you think!
TracyGood morning! Hope you had a good Thanksgiving!
>> Now I just have to come up with the words. So, in context is it a compound cue with “push” and the backside left or right wing wrap verbal – like “push” + 1 of those 2 or is the new cue all inclusive, meaning, go to the backside of the indicated jump and continue in a wing wrap and chase me down the line?>>
It is a different all-inclusive cue. I used to use a compound cue but my dogs told me it was ridiculously late LOL! And they were correct, it was very useful feedback from them. And I saw that in other dogs too. So now I say “back” for the slices and ‘digdigdig’ for the circle wrap. I like shorter chattered cues for collections, but that might just be a personal bias (certainly not rooted in science or anything LOL!) Since Push is your slice cue, you can consider something different like backbackback?
>>Hmm…I think you overestimate me.
Not at all! Your mechanics and attention to detail are fabulous!
>>I have been trying to reinforce more weight shift back lean back tug with him since he’s pretty happy to do a more passive, head up tug or a shoulder/neck killing (for both of us) thrash. >>
Ah yes, the thrashing, if feels like we are deep sea fishing and hauling in a marlin LOL! Do you have any bungee toys? It helps preserve the shoulders/neck of both me and my thrashers.
>>We have done some of this gradually at first but he never showed any worry so we pretty quickly went to pretty loud front porch tile with him slamming the board around. I can do and video more of this to post if you want.>>
Perfect! You don’t need to post videos if it is perfect and easy for him 🙂
>>So far we’ve just been using a 2 front feet off the object behavior with the cue “feet” without an actual physical target involved.
That is fine to shape it – be hyper away or your position and motion, so you don’t accidentally build in your decel or foot position as the cue. Dogs are so brilliant are reading cues before we even realize we are doing them LOL!
>> In the past I used a nose touch target for 2o2o but in his current puppy pre-agility she’s having us not use a physical target for the teeter and we’re working on running for dog walk and a-frame. So far for teeter we’ve just been doing bang game in class and some very early up plank stuff at home (some of that is in what we did today for planks). .>>
All sounds good! I do admit, though, that I still use the old school nose touch target for the 2o2o on the teeter (but not for a 2o2o dog walk, although I do all running DWs now anyway). The results that the 2o2o nose touch target produced are so outrageously amazing that I have not changed that method (been using it since 2004 LOL!!!!) All other contact training methods have evolved and been updated, but the nose touch for the teeter is still the best imo (although I have evolved how I teach it :))
>>Today’s sessions we did some wobble board, some tug on wobble and lots of planks – mini plank, middle of dog walk on the ground, middle of dog walk about 18″ off the ground and then just teeter up with no tilt.>>
Great sessions here!
Playing on the baby plank looks really good – do you have naything you can elevate it with while it is still stable?
For more balance/coordination challenge, you can add turning him away from you with a hand leading him through it as a lure for now. The goal would be to get him to do a complete 360, degree turn. Also, does he know any tricks where he picks up an individual paw (high 5, shake, or isolations where he lifts just one foot)? You can add that in too!The wobble board work looked good too – good clicks for the decision to move it and you can start those clicks on the very first decision to move it when he jumped on (when he didn’t get that click, he went to offering other behavior, which it why there was a delay in moving it at first).
He liked the weight shifted tugging!! Love than he offered backing up to it when you had the toy! Yes- it is all about that hind end, Ripley! Good boy!
We can change how we let him win so winning is more fun for him – you can release him and throw the toy forward, I think he would like that!Plankrobatics looked really good on the low DW outdoors and also look great on the slightly higher one! Jumping on and off in the middle is so important for balance if they ever get in trouble with balance or footing while running – they will know how to balance and will know how to safely dismount if needed. As with the smaller plank indoors at home, you can add in turning away in a complete circle and any single paw-lift tricks he might know.
Teeter games: The lower teeter plank where he drives to the end for a cookie is a game I play and really like! He was great! I loved all of the position and handling challenges you showed him! When I play this one, I don’t have the dog run off the target end because I don’t want to rehearse running over the spot where the board meets the ground (that is the sacred 2o2o spot LOL!) so after the dog turns around and gets past the pivot, I release off the side to chase a toy. The release verbal gives the permission – I know that it would theoretically give the permission to run over the end of the board but running through the end might create confusion when you ask him to stop and he has a reward history of running.
>>Until growth plates are closed I’m not rushing to get the board moving a lot or very far
So true! And plus all the foundation work makes it easier to get to the full teete rwhen he is all grown up 🙂
Great job here on all of these! Let me know what you think!
TracyGood morning! Hope you had a lovely Thanksgiving! Mine was peaceful – playing with the dogs outside in the 65 degree weather followed by wearing pajamas, cooking, eating 🙂
First video – I really liked this session because it felt like you were working to sort out connection and timing while keeping it really fun for him, rather than just doing a few reps without thinking about things for each rep. Yay!
On your blinds crosses: Being outside gave you both lots of room to run run run – the connection is the hardest part in handling in general and with blinds specifically, which is why we start them so early 🙂
To make connection with such a little dog, you can experiment with what works best – the goal is that you can see his cute little face and that he can see your cute face too 🙂 So try these and let me know which one feels better and works better:
– you can think of pointing your dog-side arm all the way back to his nose, like your fingers have magnets on them to his nose 🙂 That means your arm will be extended back and downwards, elbow locked back.
– or you can try ‘dipping’ your dog side shoulder down – your dog side arm will still be a little back but the dipped shoulder might feel and look better for connection>> thus I think he was anticipating he side change because he was never really sure in the first place what side he was supposed to be on>>
I agree we can clarify the connection – you can pretend there is a jump between you and him if that visual helps!
On the first rep, your left arm was kind of close to your leg and as he started to move, your closed your shoulder forward a little – so he started reading it as a blind cross (which is actually a GOOD thing!!!) If you freeze the video at :04, you will see what I mean about the closed shoulder even thought the toy was present.
Compare it to the next rep at about :12 – you were more connected for longer and I think he knew exactly where to be at all times.
Then freeze the video at :19, I really liked the connection there and the arm was further back to him so he again knew exactly where to be! You were a little late on the blind, probably because you were thinking about connection as the priority, and that is fine 🙂
The rep at :27 was perfect. Click/treat for you. And a shout out to the hubby for being helpful with holding and with feedback! Love it!
A side note is that we don’t want the dog locking onto the toy, we want them locking onto the handling so when he is looking for connection and not at the toy? Perfect! We want to be able to run with a toy in training and have him ignore it in favor of watching your handling 🙂
One other thing: From the restrained recall, you don’t need to release (he is not in a stay) you can just call his name on those.
Drive ahead video:
>>For this one, I tried the treat throw back and he could never find it, so that didn’t really work.
When you work on grass, you can try tossing a big, light-colored treat onto a big towel or into a big bowl so it is easier to see. He will get used to finding treats in the grass eventually then you can fade the towel or bowl.
>>I am not sure if it’s undesirable in this case to have a helper but I did it anyway because without being able to use the treat throw I wasn’t sure how else to “cheat”.
It is always good to have a helper when you don’t want to use a stay and you need to cheat to win 🙂
On the drive ahead from the collar holding – try not to say OK – try to just say get it or go 🙂 When you win – be sure to reset to start the race rather than just throw. It worked better when you had your helper 🙂
I love that he was smoking you on the bigger distances! Don’t give yourself as much of a lead out so he can begin to feel the wind in his hair and experience the thrill of leaving you miles behind hahahaha
>> It was interesting on a few of these where he kind of blew by the toy at first a little bit…I am glad he was moving that fast! But I think he has a bit to learn about self-induced decel and body awareness perhaps
I think he was trying really hard but being a terrier, it was hard to get his head down, maintain enough speed to win, and not go ass-over-teakettle while picking up the toy. And we don’t want him to slow down on these and we don’t want him to tumble, so we can tweak the type of toy to something taller than he can grab without having to lower his head as much. Does he like a hollee roller? I love those for this game, because they sit high enough off the ground that the dogs drop their heads a little and thn can scoop it up to win without having to slow down much or run past it by accident. Or do you have any toys that have a higher ‘profile’ when they are on the ground?
Great job here!! Let me know what you think!
TracyGood morning!
Hope you had a lovely Thanksgiving! And hope you are enjoying today’s UKI trial – I would love an update when you have a moment!!!On the video: Wow, he did really well here! It is a really difficult challenge that most Masters dogs cannot perform successfully.
He did exceptionally well turning to his right and also was perfect on all the balance reps. He had a slightly harder time turning to his left like at :37 and on the last turn away rep. It could have been that your arm was higher and the cue was later, or that he is not as good turning to his left (I kinda remember that he is a lefty but I am severely under-caffeinated so my memory cannot be trusted :))… or that the exit when he is on your left is weirder and he is using the last pole when he is on your right to wrap to the tunnel. So you can experiment: when he is on your left, give your cue sooner so he uses pole 5 to wrap to the tunnel! That will be interesting to see and might be clearer for him.
>>He hasn’t taken his toy into a tunnel in a very long time and he did it here after the last rep.
Ha! Probably brain-tired 🙂 This is a hard setup where he has to go fast AND think hard. Good boy!!!!
Great job here!
TracyGood morning! Hope you had a good Thanksgiving!!!
>>t life kept me from sitting down and editing till now.
Totally understandable – editing takes a long time@@@@
>>At first I had trouble with him reading it as a back side cue, but he figured it out.
I don’t htink it was him as much as it was you LOL!! You had a bit of Goldilocks (too late, too early, just right 🙂 ) going on the first few reps:
On the first 1st rep, your cues were really late – he was in the air when they started. Good boy for reading it when he landing!
2nd rep and the others when he thought it was a backside – your feet were too early 🙂 As soon as he was landing from the first jump, you turned your feet & pushed into his line and that is definitely a backside cue, so he read it as such. Good boy!
Sarting at :25, your timing and cues were definitely more inf the “just right” zone – the hard part of these is that your feet need to face forward til he is looking at the correct side of the jump then turn to show the RC. So at :25 and after, you totally got the timing and rhythm of it so he was very very successful. Yay!
You can definitely emphasize your upper body too – more arms use, like a tandem turn, will help him so your feet won’t need to be as perfect. Plus the upper body is easier to see as you add more and more distance.
At :53 when he took the tunnel after the wrap – more connection was needed but also that is a good one to work the verbal because I believe it was your wrap verbal, not your turn left verbal. Good for you for going back to it and for rewarding it!!!!!! and showing the balance. Smart training!!!! I was going to suggest it but you were way ahead of me. Click/treat for you!!!
When you added in the layering, he did really well!!!
>> At 1:45 (I think that’s about right) I had done a rep and he did well when I said go over and then at this point I had just said over and he had a question. Not sure if I did something different with my body, timing or if I need the go there. Ideas?>>
Yes, he was watching you a little there and at 1:45 you got reallllly quiet and weren’t moving so he asled a good question. Part of it was lack of experience with the big distance/layering and part of it was that you were not moving. So he was chekcing in to see if the verbals really were allowed to override the lack of motion.
So as you work this skill, shout the verbals early and often 🙂 and also keep moving because the motion will help support the verbals too.The staying in motion will really help – Wager is more experienced and also asked that question on his rep (it is always good to see Wager working!!! )
>>How long is this class open for submissions?
Til December 1 🙂
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi!
>>Is this face the way I want to go my back to him then turn back toward him and catch?
Yes I prefer to lead out and then face him but I’m working thru that in a trial I’ve not been successful lol… I have a ring rental week after next will experiment.
yes – I find that my speed on course is much better when I don’t rotate to face the dog on th release, then have to rotate again to start moving. I just keep moving the way I want to go the whole time, including the release – that keeps my butt moving better 🙂 So I make sure the dogs understand the ‘catch’ in this situation too!
Tracy
Good morning! Hope you had a lovely Thanksgiving!
These are going really well – TONS of success!
On the teeter, I think he is asking some questions about whether it is 4on or 2o2o. I think this reinforcement procedure will help clarify his 2o2o!!! To help get it started, you can use a small target so you don’t gt the 4on thenneed to use a 2nd cue to get the 2o2o then do the catch – and then yo ucan easily fade the target. Yo ucan also toss teh catch reward so it lands just in front of where you’ll want the 2o2o to be, so he is encouraged to step all the way into position in order to efficiently get the reinforcement rather than stop short in the 4on.
Also, you can do the catch while you stay in motion as long as you are sure he has fully stopped in his 2o2o – this will simulate what happens on course when you are running hard 🙂You cn also work this with a ball or tug toy… I am thinking ahead to bringing it into the ring for NFC runs in UKI where you can throw things (in UKI, you can also put a target on the ground in NFC!)
The weaves looked really strong, so let’s add challenge to the 6 pooes here! You can do everything the same in terms of marker and reinforcement with get it, but you can add in varying your position to be behind him or way ahead or do a rear cross on the entry, with the get it still coming at the same time and place – that can help set up even more independent weaves! You might need to change the line of entry so it is easier to set up your different positions relative to the weaves. And of course you can add in 12 poles too, he is looking great!
Nice work! Let me know what you think!
TracyGood morning! Hope you had a fun Thanksgiving!
Lots of good stuff on the video!
Her questions on the remote reinforcement procedure were small but also a good indicator that she still needs to have more experience with this. And then it will be much easier to transfer to the ring. When the dogs understand remote reinforcement, they move away quickly and start offering engagement and behaviors because they recognize that is the gateway to getting the reinforcement 🙂
You can make it easier by having a bag of treats not naked treats LOL!
What was your word here? It was hard to tell exactly what you were telling her, I think it was slightly different over the course of the sessions so be loud and consistent 🙂Things were a little harder with the good toy but she did really well!! Good girl! Now, as you move away from the food or toys, add in asking for a simple, fun trick before marking and going back to the reinforcement. We build this in to sporty stuff starting on Monday.
For the ‘catch’ procedure:
>>I often throw back a treat on her start line with a get it command. I am changing that to catch. But she’s used to that being her release. She thought for sure I was trying to trick her on the AF. Yes I’ve been doing a lot of proofing so I did use my release cue in that moment when I realized she thought I was tricking her by throwing the toy.”
Working the catch procedure separately at the end of the video, on the flat, was smart to get the marker/procedure clearer. On the a-frame, you can use a cookie and get it right between her feet or behind her, to teach her to get the reinforcement and that it is not a proofing thing. If she thinks it is a proofing thing, then catch will not serve its purpose as a reinforcement – it will be a stay cue. So work it separately like you did here and then when you do add it back to the frame, don’t use the ‘you’re free’ otherwise it will devalue the marker.
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyGood morning! Hope you had a lovely Thanksgiving!!
>> In the first video from October you can see Buccleigh being over aroused with frantic barking. We took your engagement workshop and he is now more relaxed at trials (also in day to day activities and agility classes-it’s been a real improvement and we are definitely having more fun and less stress). He is able to pay attention and stay engaged, but now I think he is more aware of his surroundings and he is nervous.>>
If you think back to the engagement seminar, we talked about the Yerkes-Dodson bell curve. The frnatic barking was probably on the right hand side of the bell curve (overarousal, where he is distracted by internal distractions) and the noticing more things in the environment means he is more on the left hand side of the bell curve (underarousal, where he is distracted by external distractions like the judge). And dogs do seem to be able to slide back and forth between the 2 from one moment to the next. However, based on what you are saying, he is closer to optimal now (that top part of the bell curve) and not way down low on the left hand side. YAY!!!! That is fabulous progress!!!!! I am so glad you are both having more fun and less stress.
>> You can see in the second video that he is aware of the judge and seems a bit nervous.
The second video is marked private, can you repost?
>> I also observed that when he can go in a tunnel or do a contact his worry decreases. (When he was on the table in video 2, I was telling him what a good dog he was.)>>
I noticed that in the first video too – and also in that first video, he seemed to really love the weaves! So… he likes action and he likes things that have been heavily reinforced (like weaves and the aframe) He did NOT seem to like the table in the first video.
>>> He loves agility so I am wondering if these rewarding activities help to relieve some of his worry.
Yes, making agility as reinforcing as possible will TOTALLY help! And also, enphasize rewarding a lot of jumps. The one thing he is guaranteed to see in every agility course? Jumps. Reward jumps so much that they are as reinforcing as tunnel or contacts.
>>If that is the case, I am hopeful that we could build on this maybe with other reward applications to help him to find his confidence.>>
Yes, in some ways, but also bear in mind that we cannot rely on the obstacles as the reinforcement – we don’t always have access to the obstacles (like outside the ring) and we want to be able to control the lines on course and reinforce certain behaviors, not just doing obstacles.
But yes – you can use obstacles to build value for other things. Have you gotten a chance to watch the building value for toys video? I am totally using obstacles and the dog’s love of ‘action’ as a way to build value for a tennis ball (I really wish I had video of how little value he had for a tennis ball before I started this – he didn’t even look at a tennis ball).
The first thing you will want to do is build value for food or toys in that situation – simple fun sequence, toy then food then sequence, and so on in a bit of a loop.
Then you can slide in a distraction – run pass a person then he gets to do the sequence then he gets the toy or food and so on.
We are going to add more about the distractions and engagement on Monday too, because he totally needs to work the engagement games with the distractions that are stimulating and/or make him nervous.
>>This is a venue where we have trialed in the past but rarely have an opportunity to train with food in the ring. He can do all of our tricks, etc before we enter the ring. >>
This is where the remote reinforcement of being able to do agility with the food reward behind him becomes critically important! More on that coming on Monday too, so be sure you have practiced the foundation procedure for it. It is great that AKC, USDAA, UKI all have training-in-the-ring opportunities… if you have a dog that loves toys. It can be pretty useless for dogs that only love food, and that is why the remote reinforcement procedure is so critical for our foodies! But once he understands it with food… then you will see him be less over- or under-aroused. The lack of clarity on how to earn the food is part of the underlying issue at trials.
>>I haven’t tried our start line stay (we are working on your start-line stay class, too) because I am not confident he could do it once we are in the ring. We can do it most of the time in class now.:-)>>
It is smart to not bring it to the trial environment yet, because we really really don’t want him to fail in a trial. But doing it most of the time in class is GREAT!!!! And, we work more specifically on it here:
The catch procedure that is posted really helps!And I have another one coming for you on Monday 🙂 that will help the start line.
The next set of games will has a major emphasis on engagement and remote reinforcement, I think you’ll find them very useful to help him in the trial ring 🙂
Let me know what you think!
TracyGood morning! Hoe you had a very delicious Thanksgiving!!!
This game went well, lots of good reinforcement and also use of distractions.
Very smart to move this to a new location in the house!
He played well with the toy, even with bags of treats on the table and I think there was one behind him too! It all builds into remote reinforcement, great focus and a great stay.As you lead out for agility, try to make it match what you would do in the ring – you were turning and facing him here, which is perfect if that is what you do in the ring… but if you face where you are going next before the release, make sure you show him that so that he doesn’t predict that when you are facing forward, it is a release forward (not a catch). That anticipation can cause him to leave the stay early.
And you can also face the way you want to go, prasie him… then do the catch. That way he doesn’t anticipate that you’ll do it when you stop or when you look back at him. He is VERY smart so we need to be sure he is not one step ahead of us LOL!!!>>… catch quandary if he brings it to me is going over the bar ok or do I move toward him?
Bringing it over the jump is perfectly fine, good boy for bringing it! When you are out in the bigger field and the bar is higher, you can step to the side and encourage him to bring it around the jump, only because we don’t want the toy to knock the bar which might be startling to him.
Great job here!!!
Tracy
