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Hi!
>> They run behind the gates and bark like mad, she gets higher than a kite.
What is her rate of success in training in this scenario, especially if you do not have food or toys in your hands?
>>If I’m in a class/seminar setting then tugging brings her arousal up much more than if I was using food and a lotus ball. >>
Same question – what is her rate of success with each, particularly if you are not carrying either in the moment? This will help us plan.
>>When I’ve done FEO with a toy, it’s hard to get her back working and off me if I’ve stopped and played. She wants to just keep barking at me. Some of that is the time limit too. I can get her back working and focused if we have the time.>>
I think the installations will really help, because she will have to get right back to work in order to get the next reinforcement – especially installation 1 (the wing work). Establish it first with cookies then get her into increasingly higher arousal with toys and such, over the course of several sessions. The goal is that the first impulse after a reinforcement is to look for work, not to look for more reinforcement 🙂
>>Whenever we have to repeat something, I really get barking at me. I can’t even walk forward without stepping on her cuz she’s right in my face telling me I messed and I’m the reason we are going back.>>
Repeat an obstacle on course? Then yes, she is correct LOL! She is really young – don’t repeat, just keep going and develop flow. The barking in your face is a high frustration behavior – stopping in that scenario is a negative punishment for a behavior that she could not have done successfully, and the punishment bubbles over into barking & frustration. And then being in the ring can get frustrating, so you get more barking and more arousal in a cycle. So – no fixing! Just running. If you are stopping because of, say, she pops a weave pole or misses a contact then I would say that she should not yet be weaving or doing contacts in competition.
>>>I just feel at this point if she skips a pole going back is only going to mess up the rest of her run. She knows her poles and unless something becomes a trial behavior I let it go.>>
Better to let it go but I personally don’t want the dog to skip poles and carry on… so it is a fine line – if I bring the dog back then they get super frustrated, which usually means that they really don’t know the obstacle that well.
>>At home when I need to repeat, I toss cookies on the floor as we walk back to where were starting. That has made the biggest difference in training. By the time we get back she is calmer and ready to listen again.>>
Yes, but it doesn’t do anything to develop flow on course and reduce the frustration you get in trialing. And it might increase the frustration because in a trial, the one thing you cannot do is throw cookies on the floor. So after an error, when she is expecting the procedure of cookie toss and it is not there – I can see she might struggle with that. And I think training her in lower arousal might actually set her up for failure at trials when she will definitely be in higher arousal. So set up the higher arousal and do shorter practically fool-proof sequences. And if something goes wrong, just keep going – get on a line and run til it is smooth again, and then reward.
The remote reinforcement procedures will also really help – how is she doing with moving away from the reward?
TracyHi1
This is looking great! Easy peasy for him! When building up to the new reinforcement procedure, you can have this more literally on his nose for him to follow. Right now your ‘let’s go’ is more of a focal point so for the reinforcement procedure, you can place it right on his nose because it will be used a little differently (stay tuned for next week :)). Based on his response here, I bet he thinks it will be the BEST THING EVER LOL! He clearly has a strong understanding of the cookie as focal point here, the transport and the set up cues both looked fabulous!!!
Personally, because the transport and set up both look so good – I would not change the cues for that. We can add the additional one, and it will seem different to him because it will be right in front of his mouth and not higher up by your ribs.Great job! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi!
He is so tiny and cute! Great job on all of these, he is a smartie!!!!!He did a great job with the forward send work – check out how he was beginning to set up for the turns by the last couple of reps based on your reward placement. YES! I think it worked better for him when you did not have a cookie in the ready dance hand 🙂 because he could engage with you and be more prepared for the send element. Everything else looked great so for the next session, start nice and close again, warm up with a couple of forward sends, then start to rotate to where you can send him with you sideways or a little backwards – the beginning of the fancy countermotion stuff!!
Blind cross – also fabulous 🙂 One tweak: as you are moving away, you can connect on the original side with just your eyes, you don’t need to lock him onto the original arm – getting him locked onto the fully extended arm is making you late for the blind – by the time he locks on, it takes a while (in dog years) to make the blind happen so you end up being late. So the dog side arm can be tucked into your side as if you are running and that initial connection can just be eye contact – that makes the blind quicker (because you don’t need to bring in the original dog side arm) at which point you can lock him onto the other side of the body. Let me know if that makes sense 🙂
The next step on this one is to move to a bigger space so you can get running! Maybe hubby can hold him for restrained recalls outside? Or, if he likes other people holding him, you can do this game with other people you enlist as holders, so you can get a nice big head start 🙂Cone wraps – super! As a nice by-product, this is really embedding some nice self-control because he has to work away from your magical cookie hands and that is HARD. He gave you some funny looks at the beginning because he wanted the cookies LOL!!! He did a super job here too. One little detail: when adding distance between you and the cone, do it after a little reset moment: toss a cookie away so he doesn’t really see you add the bit of distance. I think he was seeing yu move and that drew his focus to you, so he would have an error on that first rep after every little addition of distance. But if you reset him and he doesn’t see it, I bet he is perfect!
This is going really well with the food. One thing you can do is take the cone to a neutral environment where there is no existing food association, and try it with 2 toys.
And, separately from that, you can work up to standing up and dropping the cookies into the bowls. They might bounce around but I think he will like that 🙂Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi! Congrats on your new puppy! I am excited to hear more about Changtse! Are all of your dogs named after mountains? Very cool names!
I am glad he is doing well at trials!!
>>AT this trial, although Nuptse could not do any tricks except sit when we moved to the start line,
It is entirely possible that he has turned into an ‘all business’ dog who is focused and ready to run, and tricks disturb that focus. Some of my dogs are like that and it is perfectly fine 🙂 His runs are looking good!
About the weaves –
One thing I notice on his runs here is that he is a bit slower, the further he is from the entry gate/rewards. He speeds up when he thinks he is approaching the reinforcement. You can see a distinct difference in speed when he is back by the rainbow versus the ending line. That is something we will work on with the remote reinforcement – more coming on that in the next couple of weeks. The further from the reinforcement he gets, the more likely he is going to be to get the cue to go back to it. I think the weaves are part of that – they are perhaps the most difficult obstacle so the most likely to fall apart. In the JWW run, I think your motion pushed him out but I didn’t see any reason why he popped out in Standard – so I think working the weaves with more remote reinforcement will really help!Tracy
Hi!
She was indeed a good girl here, what a fun dog!!!I do think the training will be better served if you chop this into shorter sessions – one or two minutes at a time. Yes, she stuck with you but I think by having it as one long rolling session, you didn’t have time to plan for the next thing and plus, doing all the things in one session makes it harder to differentiate each one. So you can set a timer, do 2 minutes of one specific procedure or two that fit together, then give yourselves a brain break to plan the next one in terms of what you will do and the mechanics… then come back to the next session. So it will likely still total out to be the same amount of training but it will be cleaner and clearer.
At the start of the session, the get it and careful alternated really well together! And she was perfectly happy with the catch too – you can start her on a platform or a mat so she can be further from you when you start the catch.
With the food procedures, especially the careful – be sure to keep the cookie hand still til after you say the word. This is especially important when you are using the ‘please’ for the out of the toy – your cookie hand was moving before you said the marker and before she dropped it, so she was cuing off the movement of the cookie hand (I have totally done this by accident which is why it pops out to me LOL!) When you did not move the cookie hand, she kept tugign (like at 11:15 – you were super patient there with the cookie hand, so always work those mechanics so she doesn’t look at the cookie hand during the please moments).
Also, was careful also the marker for the toy in your hand? This is one of the times where I think 2 different markers will be useful – she has to approach the cookie differently from the toy (two different behaviors) and also if you have food and a toy in the picture at the same time as you did in this session, it might be unclear as to which one she should grab.
And I think you were getting a little session fatigue later in the session too – get it was marking toy in hand and thrown, plus as you mentioned you were saying ‘let’s go’ rather than jackpot – that is where the planning becomes helpful to keep it all clean.
For the remote reinforcement – I think you were making it harder than she could handle, so the rate of success was a bit low – placement of the food on an item (the inflatable) that might have associated food value for shaping and at nose level was too hard, so you can make it easier and more successful for her by using a bag of treats up on the bed. So it is there, and it is visible and interesting… but just far enough away that she is wildly successful and then you can add challenge.
I think the IYC on the food and the toy in this context was a little confusing to her, she failed more than we would like. So replacing the IYC with the food and toy just a little further out of reach will totally help! With the toy, she didn’t know what was happening so she kinda checked out (plus it was about 10 minutes into the session by then) – so the remote reinforcement can be simplified so get more success more quickly.
She seemed really engaged with the toy (yay!) so you can get the engagement, get the out/please, place the toy up on the bed and take a step away – if she engaged with you, a big ‘let’s go!’ and back to the toy. I think that will be clear for her (she was already being successful ignoring the bag of treats).
She wasn’t sure what you wanted at the very end? Was it ignoring the toy in hand? She did get rewarded when she looked at your other (empty) hand so you can clarify that by being a bit more stationary – I think the movement was confusing her there.Nice work here! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi!
The blinds are looking good and it is fine that she was really into the treats! You did get her back on the toy really nicely 🙂 Also, in terms of value, the toy you were using my be slightly too low in value compare to the treats, so maybe a more exciting toy (fur, dangly parts, etc) will help with balance. Balance of reinforcement is the hardest part with puppies!
Yes, you can start the blind as soon as you see her take one step towards you. This will be easier if you start moving away as soon as she is really heading towards the cookie, more like what you did on the very last rep.
Good job with your connection and rewarding! Now if possible, go someplace where you have even more room to do this and you can also have someone hold her for a restrained recall start if she likes those 🙂Goat tricks
>>Re the notes on this and getting the puppy into a higher arousal state, I definitely don’t feel like I am really getting her into a state of arousal that is conducive to shaping. She is naturally at a much lower arousal and intensity level then Rayven (understatement of the year!), and probably also than Ziva (harder to say that was 13 years ago now and she was miss perfect).>I agree that she was not quite fully jazzed up when you started here- it might have been that the toy was small and you were leaning over. Try sitting down for this type of shaping (leaning over is a lot of pressure for little pups!) and use a wilder toy – long, furry, crinkly, etc
I do think she is improving in her shaping with cookies! A lot!!! She was offering, she was not checking out. You got a TON of good behavior here. Yay! We don’t want her to be insane for shaping, I like the thoughtfulness. Cookies are calmer for her so yes, I agree – break it off for tugging more frequently. And also, since she likes tossed cookies better than stationary cookies, you can toss them more and feed in position less.
>>I have been casually tossing treats and pairing with a game of tug and she seems to like that game, she is running out to get them faster it seems to me.
Great! I see a definite difference already. This was a good session!!!!
And good job timing your session – remember, it does not need to be 2 minutes go for short and sweet especially when shaping with food.
Send & Commitment: This is going really well. I would do one more session like this with cleaner mechanics on the transitions, then add more challenge by being sideways.
The transition at the beginning can be cleaner here – before starting the tug at the beginning, have the prop tucked under your arm and cookies in the other hand. That way she doesn’t have to wait in between the tugging and introduction of the prop. And we want the cookies in your hand for speed of delivery so you don’t have to reach into your pocket.
Her commitment is looking really good!!You can replace the tug in this with the ready dance: rather than keeping her with you with the tug, you can engage her with the ready dance then send her. Being on the tug the whole time doesn’t give her a moment to get ready for the send, so when you took the toy and sent quickly, she was unprepared and failed. So, tug, then do the ready dance, then send her, then reward then repeat 🙂 Plus the ready dance adds in some engagement with you that does not involve the toy 🙂
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
Tracy
Yes. If I use their release word, they should move forward to take the jump. If I say ‘catch’, they can stand up but they are going to stay on the takeoff side because the reward is coming back to them.
T
Hi!
Lots of great stuff here on these videos, he is SO FUN!! And it was fun to hear the hubby involved in the background 🙂
>> I’m not that sensitive and will not be deflated by your pointing out of all the places where I need to clean up my mechanics, follow instructions better, etc., so don’t hold back. 🙂>>
You know I won’t hold back LOL!!! But also, I totally understand that the hardest part of puppy training is the mechanics, so I am empathetic to the feeling like you need another 2 or 3 arms LOL! But it is just as important to point out all the good stuff because that is what we want repeated 🙂
Onwards to the videos:
Both pre-games looked really strong!
Pre-game 1 (prop) looked really good, good timing of the front foot hit and marker/toss! He is building really nice value. Try to have your cookies ready and so you can keep your hands pretty stationary and just toss treats – if you are moving the treats or hands a bit, it is distracting to the puppy 🙂 and he will end up looking at your hands too much. So, have a small handful ready to go, then be perfectly stationary as he is offering.Pre-game 2, target in hand – also really good! One tweak to set you up for when we build on this: have the target in your flat open palm rather than dangling, almost like you are asking for a nose touch to your palm but now there is the target in it. And when you are waiting for him to re-engage after a cookie toss, keep the target stationary and don’t move it towards him, let him come to you – holding the hand out to the side will make it easier because it is more obvious being out away from your body. We will build on this soon!
Building sends to the prop:
He was a wild man for the prop LOL! He cracks me up!!!! This is also going well and you already caught some of the mechanics that you can clean up. One thing to remember is to keep his success rate high so there are almost no questions or errors- with this in mind, I think you added distance too quickly, as he told you when he didn’t go on a couple of reps or slowed down before finishing the send (you can see this at 1:12 and 1:24, for example). You can add distance by inches, not several feet at a time, stay at each stage until he is super confident.Also, I am not sure if he was offering a stay or you cue it, but for this don’t use a stay and don’t let him put himself into a stay (overachiever LOL!) I think he was waiting for a release in the 2nd session at like :35. Instead get him jazzed up by doing that goofy ready dance so he is hopping around and looking at you, then send him. The ready dance will also help you get your hand off his collar, and it will teach him to be kinda patient while engaging before the send.
And yes you caught that you were using the incorrect hand on a couple of the reps but then you fixed it at :49 and he had a smoother send on those.
By the end of the clip you had everything sorted out with nice mechanics and yes, remember to reward back at you to help him understand the turn element even more.
Decel and turn:
He loves his platform LOL! And yes, I agree – it was inetrrupting the flow because right now the platform has more value than the pivots. So, you can start him from a stay on the flat or a cookie toss so the platform is not in the picture.
One suggestion – as he is coming towards you, make more eye contact by opening up your dog-side shoulder more and looking at his cute little face. Then as he is arriving at you, your cookie hand can drop in and you can start the pivot. More eye contact will help him know exactly which side to be on. He is bending really nicely on the pivots! Good boy!Because he is little, you can do this on your knees if your knees will permit it, or do it standing up with a long wooden spoon (with a little dab of cream cheese on the end) to replace your hand so you don’t have to bend over as much 🙂
Driving ahead:
>>yes, that X-mas tree has been up since last year, so I guess I’m all set now for the season! Ha!!>>I love it! You are festive all year round!
It was smart to add his collar to the 2nd session here- he is too slippery to do this without a collar LOL!!
Question: What is he doing with the toy after he gets it? Looks like he is running off with it, so you can attach it to a leash and then engage with him as soon as he arrives at it so that way you can being to get him to bring it to you (or at least not take any big victory laps).
His forward focus looks great, and his toy drive looks great, and his little leap to the toy is ADORABLE!
He had no trouble at all when you added distance: he still drove ahead beautifully and you added motion with no trouble. And good job for working both side! Now move this game to an even bigger area so you can add in more of your motion, building up to running.Wing Wraps:
>> Part of the issue is that I have been doing so much practice with waits, stays and impulse control that he kept thinking it was a trick and he needed and ‘OK’ to eat the food from the dish. >>
Yes, we are seeing that same thing with some of the other pups that have too much emphasis on self-control. I don’t do any of those traditional self-control games anymore 🙂 You can put them on the shelf for now, we will build self-control separately 🙂 and that way he won’t be confused when you are shaping or playing games.
For now, to help clarify things for him, you can put the cookie on the ground or tap it to help break out of the self-control and more into the ‘you can have it’. That will also allow you to talk to him less – we want you to be pretty quiet here for now, so just tapping the treats will help give him permission
In this session he had several errors where he squeezed in between you and the upright. The upright is too far for you if he can fit between it and you- if he has even one error make it easier right away because we don’t want him to have that many errors – try to be as close to 90% or 100% rate of success as possible.
He was getting it by the end of the video, in terms of getting the treats and going around the upright but definitely have the upright closer so he cannot fit in between it and you for the next couple of sessions. You can also do this with 2 toys!The BCs are deceptively easy looking LOL!!! The toy placement mechanics require some practice to overcome the old muscle memory – try not to lean over and don’t switch hands 🙂 I think the leaning over was you being really good about presenting the toy nice and low, so you can use a longer toy that can drag on the ground to get it nice and low for him.
When you did keep the toy in the same hand and placed it across your body, the difference in connection was awesome! You can see it really clearly at :45. And even when you were late like at :57, he still got the blind because he saw the connection. Yay!
Speaking of being late- you are going to need a nice long head start like the one you had on the last rep, he is a speedy little guy! You can start closer to where you want to be nd toss the cookie further away, or have the hubby or anyone hold him to start it as a restrained recall (if he likes those) – that way you can get running and get way ahead, starting the blind when he is halfway to you.Great job here!!! Let m know what you think 🙂
TracyHi! Not knowing all of how his weaves were trained, I think the remote reinforcement procedures will really help him get it at trials (we are looking at those very specifically in weeks 3 and 4).
And about barking at birds and also getting more relaxed entering the trial ring – those will be some installations of offered focus with distractions that we will look at too!Tracy
Good morning!
This is an excellent question! And kind of a long answer:
>>In the Week 1 segment on food rewards, you were adamant that we should say our verbal and then deliver/offer the food reward. But in the Week 1 segment on toy rewards, especially for the non-moving toy on person (bite), you seem to present reward and then say the verbal.>>
>>Why is the order of the steps different for food and toys? Shouldn’t they be the same when teaching from the beginning?>>The steps can be different for different types of reinforcement, because the definition of ‘clean’ mechanics is different with the different types of mechanics. And the mechanics of something like “snack” versus “bite” are very different even though both have the dog interacting with reinforcement in your hand.
One similarity is that in the learning stages, the food and toy must be stationary before the verbal marker- so that is why I was such a pain in everyone’s petunia to have the cookie in hand and NOT be moving before the marker. If the cookie is moving before the marker, then the dog is learning to cue off of your hand moving to your pocket or is looking at the cookie hand the whole time, rather than waiting for the marker. And cookies are easy to hold in the hand while you are doing something else in the training. For example, if you are using a ‘snack’ cue as the reinforcement procedure when training the dog to out a toy, mechanics are important because if the cookie is moving before the snacks cue (or whichever marker you will be using) then the hand movement becomes the cue or marker the dog watches for, rather than the behavior cue or reinforcement marker.
A high quality example of poor mechanics of moving the hand or the cookie first (before the marker) is that Hot Sauce’s cue to out a toy is not the verbal – it is my hand moving to my pocket, because I did too many reps of accidentally moving my hand to my cookie pocket before I said snacks when I was training her. OOPS!!! So, I accidentally de-valued my snacks marker because my hand was moving before the marker – so it is pretty meaningless to that particular dog because the reinforcement procedure that I installed there was about watching my hand movement. Double oopsie.
On the other hand, a toy that is big enough for a ‘bite’ cue is not easily held in a pocket or hand, and since we want it stationary for the dog to drive to, we must have it out there before the marker so, like with cookies, the dog is not watching your hand moving to your pocket or wherever the toy was placed.
The dog is aware of the presence of the food or toys in both of these, so having the toy present before the marker is fine here – note how the toy is not moving though, same as the treats not moving. It is present but the order of events is marker then toy. If the toy was moving before you said your bite cue, I would bug you LOL! When we are running the toy will be moving, but that is the nature of the devil in toy play which brings me to the next thing about toy mechanics being a little different:
2 more reasons why the toy mechanics and the food mechanics can and should be different in some cases have to do with how they are commonly used and also, self-preservation.
The ‘bite’ is very commonly used in training when the toy is already in my hand (because toys are so dang hard to stuff anywhere haha! And also because bite is often used to drive the dog hard into the handler and that needs to happen fast in ay training scenarios, so the toy cannot be tucked away somewhere). And also, the ‘bite’ mark is permission to come in ‘hot’ to the toy. So as we are training this, the toy already in my hand (but not moving) helps the dog focus on the target of the toy AND avoid biting my hands or belly or sleeve or anything that might be there when he is coming in hot for the toy.
An example of messy mechanics in toy play with bite marker is if the toy is stuffed into my armpit or down the back of my pants (2 places where I hold toys in training LOL!) and I say bite and THEN I start to get the toy out.. the dog is going to come in fast and hot to the moving hand (as he should) and at best, I will get a belly punch and at worst, my hand will get chomped. I am sure you know people who have dogs that have bitten them hard in toy play- this is due to the mechanics of the reinforcement procedures being unclear.
Also, more about how the reinforcement procedures are commonly used: in training the quick markers are important for placement of reinforcement and efficiency. If the bite toy is too far away (like in a pocket or arm pit) then it delays the placement and changes where the dog looks because it chains in the dog looking at our hands moving up or back to get the toy out. The reduces the efficiency and delays the timing of the reinforcement Treats are quicker to move around and easier to hold
So the ‘clean’ mechanics of teaching the bite cue have the toy out there already (but not moving around other than dangling a little) to help the dog know where to target his bite. Cookie in hand mechanics also have a ‘don’t bite me’ element and the stationary hand helps that too, but the actual puncture wounds are more likely to happen on the ‘bite’ cue
And lastly- there is a massive element of stealthy self-control on both snacks and bite markers. Basically, the dogs need to ignore the reinforcement and that is HARD but a good skill! So the cookie hand can be in position and not moving, and so ca the toy – in position and not moving. It is great for self-control for a toy-driven dog to learn to wait for a bite marker.
And bear in mind that for agility or any type of moving behaviors… also of these reinforcement procedures can be done while you are moving and while also trying to be as clean as possible with the mechanics. On the Installations 4 video posted today, I am running with the toy in my hand- then I say bite, then I unfurl the toy and the dog drives in hot for it. So technically the toy is moving the whole time, but he ignores it til the marker and then when he drives in at a run, he only grabs the toy and not any of my flesh 🙂
>>I’m struggling with this conceptually because Moonshot is great at getting a moving toy and then “outing” that toy on command, but I don’t think he understand in the stationary case when it is OK to take the toy, so I need to shape it.>>
To help him understand the complete behavior, you can split it a bit at first: have the engaging toy visible and stationary (you can start this with a bit of play to get him excited about the toy). You can hold his collar with one hand. Say your bite cue then let go: when he moves towards the toy, you can make the toy alive and play tug (be sure he moves first). The successive approximations can build up to opening his mouth for it, putting his mouth on it, grabbing it, pulling on it, etc. And each slice of behavior can be followed by the toy moving.
Let me know what you think!
TracyHi!
>> As long as he doesn’t grab it in the middle of a run (has happened) we may be on to something
This is great news about tugging on the leash!
I agree – we don’t want him grabbing in the middle of the run but we have reinforcement procedures for that 🙂 It sounds like you can install the leash into the remote reinforcement foundation, so he learns that leash interaction is a cued behavior and not a ‘take it when you see it’ behavior LOL! And today’s new games can help build more tug value too! Have fun!
Tracy
Hello and welcome, of course I remember Paco! He is such a cool dog! And I am sorry to hear about Parker 🙁 and it sounds like Paco is still in mourning too.
>> So any input on how to get him more aroused about toys to even play these games would be appreciated. I have a multitude of different toys.
Your timing is perfect – I just posted a game to help build value for toys! You will see it in the package of games posted this morning here:
https://agility-u.com/course/au-039-reward/
You will want to use a favorite activity and a favorite reinforcement procedure (probably food-based, at this point) but it can really build up toy value!Let me know what you think!
TracyHi! Easy is good! This is a great list!
So you can take a different approach- rank the value of the reinforcement based on how it changes her arousal 🙂 I know that working on getting behavior in higher states of arousal is high on your list, so we can look at reinforcement through that lens too. That can help us increase arousal in training to simulate trial feelings, and also utilize a ‘fight fire with fire’ approach to higher arousal in different environments.Tracy
Hi!
>>A question-Tali isn’t toy motivated. I really wanted a dog that would tug and be toy motivated. Any suggestions for a 11 month old? I don’t know if it’s too late. I’ve tried getting her interested with a moving toy around. She’ll follow and grab it a little, but won’t tug. Thanks!
It is definitely not too late! When she follows the toy and grabs it – what type of toy is it? I suggest playing with different types of toys to see if there is a specific types of texture she likes. Some dogs love long fur toys that you can drag on the ground and they can chase. Keep the toy low and moving to get her chasing it like a squirrel 🙂 Or, you can throw it – does she like balls or other thrown toys? The key will be to keep it moving away from her (not towards her) to get her chasing and grabbing for it, then you can build it up to more and more tugging. Also, do this separately from any place where food is and do this in a comfy location like a hallway at home, so there are no other distractions.
Let me know the kinds of stuff she seems to like and we can start making plans!
Tracy
