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Hi!
Thanksgiving was nice and quiet here 🙂 Hope yours was good too!
>> I’ve been rewatching the Week 2 videos this afternoon…and had to laugh when you talked about planning our sessions especially in light of your feedback on our session a few days ago. I really wanted to get some video for you and didn’t do a good job of planning, didn’t have a toy that we had been doing “Yours” with only the one that I usually throw ….. and there I am hanging it out in the air trying to figure out what to do with it! AHHHH!!!!! >>>
Ha! Planning, planning, planning – that is probably 90% of training and the “do” part if 10%. Good planning is the best rehearsal for a great session 🙂
>> somedays I’m pretty sure it’s a miracle that my dogs put up with me at all 🙂
Totally relatable. There are some days where I am so grateful that my dogs have things sorted out much better than I do LOL!
>> he loves Catch….I was thinking that we’d play it in front of a tunnel as well as it seems that tunnel starts are pretty common these days.>>
Yes! If you are going to do AKC agility, then you must work this in front of a tunnel. It is a popular design element! I have not seen it as much in USDAA or UKI but it is worthwhile to train anyway.
>>I had a question about the Placed Reinforcement application. In the video you are using Get it – your reinforcement word. When/how do you swap to the verbal that you are using the placed reinforcement to help teach?>>
In a nutshell… as soon as you have behavior that is pretty much the concept of what you want: name it before you give whatever cue is eliciting it.
Do you mean in the video where Hot Sauce (black/tan terrier with folded ears) is doing the 360 circle wrap with the ball on the ground? In that video, I was giving her verbal cue (digdigdig) as I was starting each rep – it is a quiet cue, and the get it is much louder (and jubilant haha).
So as soon as you can elicit the behavior with Sly? Slap on the verbal 🙂
If you mean the shaping video with Elektra (black/white small dog with stick-up ears) going back and forth around the wing with 2 toys – that was an early session and I wanted her to offer because I was not sure I would get the behavior, so no verbal yet there. Verbal could easily be tacked on though, because she was offering easily.>> One of our winter projects is to get serious about our various verbals for turns off his dogwalk. I’m planning on using his MM for a lot of it so this class is perfectly timed >>
It sounds easier than it is, but basically it is:
Establish the reinforcement procedure
Get the behavior within that procedure, eliciting it however you need to (I use a flyball jump on the line I want the dog to turn to after the DW, and the MM is out past the flyball jump :)).
When you can reliably elicit the behavior – add the verbal right before you elicit it. Then if needed, you can fade out whatever is used to elicit it.We can definitely be talking about the specifics of how to do this!
Tracy
Hi!
>> The part I don’t know how to do is “build in a lot of value for when you have to do a lot of turns and stopped obstacles in a row,” Do I do this with a remote reward by starting with one obstacle and then reward and then build up to two and three, etc. Or do I try to have places where I reward throughout a sequence with Loys of turns and stops?>>
Part of this is yes, build up a ton of reinforcement for the start and middle of sequences, especially on jumps and turns, and when you are initially moving away from the reinforcement.
And the other part is working to a very complete understanding of remote reinforcement particularly in a trial setting, so they can do 1-20 with speed and focus.More on both of these coming on Monday but for now, the main thing is the foundation remote reinforcement procedures where they can move away from reinforcement and even do a couple of tricks before you mark and run back to it.
>>PS I got a chance to try the flirt pole with both dogs on the agility field. I ran with it and I tried to make it look like a pray animal. They were not interested in the slightest. I think I am going to have to tryout inside when they are really bored and then maybe they will build an interest.>>
Will they play with it inside? And outside, did they chase it even a little? You can reward that tiny bit of chasing as a behavior: they do it, you then reward by whipping out a real high value reinforcement (food or a ball).
Tracy
Hi! The main difference is that the different markers will tell her where to look, what to do, where to be.
“You’re free” is not necessarily a reinforcement marker: it is a ‘release from the a-frame and carry on per the next cue’ verbal. It always means drive forward to something relative to you (you are physically and/or verbally providing the next cues). The ‘catch’ marker specifically means “that was correct, stay there, reward coming to you with me out here” and the use of it is that it builds value for being there at the bottom of the frame, while you are way ahead and moving past. The ‘you’re free’ release builds value for hitting target position, but in learning – everything between the marker (‘you’re free’) and the reward delivery gets built into the behavior – so with the release forward, you are potentially building in drive off the frame which is not what needs more value here… it is staying on the frame, right? The catch placement will help that value because it is all about “stay over there, reward is coming there” so she is less likely to want to anticipate and self-release.
Let me know what you think!
TracyThere is always a need to caffeinate!!
Send me the info by email when you have a moment!
Agilitydals@yahoo.comThanks!!
Hi!
>>okay for some reason all of my post controls are gone
That’s odd – sometimes if there is an internet glitch or something is slowed down, the site won’t load fully because it is big? It is working fine here so let me know if the glitch continues and I will send it to the tech guy.
>>I’m not sure I fully understand what you mean by this.
Wait, you want feedback AND you want it to make sense? That is crazy. HA! Jk.
>>In the early part of this session, you can totally keep moving so you and the reinforcement are not near each other and also so there is not a sudden explosion of motion when you add motion (that was part of the reason he went through the wing)>
You were moving to the wing, stopping, then accelerating quickly. Try to move at a steadier pace so you never stop, you can just fold in right behind his tail and keep moving the whole time. Let me know if that makes sense or if I need to caffeinate 🙂
>I hope you and your 2+fourlegged fam had a happy thanksgiving!
It was good, ran around outside then got back in pajamas, cooked, ate. Hope yours was good too! We should probably talk about the seminar dates in NoLa and see what we can make happen!
TracyThanks! I see what you mean! This is also a remote reinforcement issue – note how hard it was for him to move away from the reinforcement (outside the ring) in the beginning – that was really worrying him! He would get faster each time the course turned towards the exit.
And he totally picked up speed when he thought it was the real ending!
And this course was interesting too in that he was not fast on the slower section (the first half) where there were a lot of turns and a lot of stops (teeter, table) so the two of you never got to just run full out. As soon as you were able to run full out? He got really fast too. Interesting!!! So as part of the value building and remote reinforcement, and in classes – build in a lot of value for when you have to do a lot of turns and stopped obstacles in a row, so he goes fast even when you can’t go fast.
Le me know what you think! See you tomorrow in the Zoom!
TracyHi! Happy Thanksgiving!
He is so fun! This was a lovely session!!!! And he was really very focused in a pretty distracting area!!
He did really well here! Just a couple of suggestions:
in a high distraction area, you an let go of him as soon as the toy hits the ground, so he doesn’t have time to look away. Eventually you will be able to extend the duration of the focus forward with distractions but the immediate “giddy up” of letting go will help him not want to look away 🙂And be sure to work both sides so he is balanced turning left and turning right.
The toy play looks good! He seems very engaged with it and is bringing it back really well! There was one rep (first one with you running) where he looked like he was considering a victory lap with the toy but then he didn’t so it is possible the excitement of all the motion stimulated him 🙂 One of the things you can do is fade out running away to get him to bring it back – start with a bit of walking away, or backing up, all while encouraging him to bring it back – then have a big party when he does (you can have a big play with that toy or whip out a 2nd toy 🙂 ) That way we can build to having you stationary and he will drive back to you with it. in the situations where you are not running (not this game, there is a lot of running in this game LOL!!)
He did really well with you standing still and with you running. Yay! I think he is ready for more of the races now (posted last Tuesday) to get him to leave you in the dust even more 🙂
Great job here! He is terrific!
TracyHi!
>>we are past week 1 but there are a couple of week 1 things I haven’t had a chance to apply your suggestions (like the Send & Committment and wrap foundations in particular) and video tape. Can I still post short vids of those for feedback?>>
Yes, you can post as you train, you don’t have to be in any specific week.
>>She has seen this disk before but not in isolation. I had it surrounded by a bunch of my other disks and fit bones to just get her on them as she has a definite tendency only put her front feet up on them and then stretch across them rather them put her back feet up on them.>>
That was a smart way to start!
On the goat video – look at her happily working for stationary food! Yay! You can continue incorporating the tug early and often.
The disc is rather tall for a 16 week old pup to easily get her back feet on and then she doesn’t quite have the core strength to stay on it long (she is a baby dog) – do you have something flatter/easier so you can mark & isolate the back feet? I love that she offered her whole body on it, and we can keep looking at ways to make it easier and fun!
Plankrobatics:
Looking great! And she was a happy girl, working for food even if it was not moving. And yes, bringing the cheese out was really hard
You can also use get its on this, tossing the cookie rather than feeding in position so she gets her back feet on it without even realizing (as she trots across to get the tossed treat)
And you can release to tug rather than use food at all – when she gets back feet on, release to tugAny Toy game:
Probably easier on your back if you sit on the floor LOL! Or do you have any super long toys? Most were pretty small so your hand was right there – that red bone shaped one had your hand all right there so it was hard to find where to grab it – the one after it was much better! Nice and long with a big crunchy toy element. Stick with longer toys for now especially as she starts to teeth more.
In this game, you can also plan the order of toys to build value for the less exciting toys. Interaction with a less exciting toy can be followed (rewarded!) with more exciting toy. For example:
The leash was a definite buzzkill, she totally looked at it like “what the actualis this” LOL!!! So if you are going to whip out a boring thing like a leash, go right back to a super high value toy to build the value of the boringness haha! Backing up:
>>She is alo not much into using her back feet independantly yet, one of the reasons we have some issues with getting on things and especially doing the getting into boxes games.
Well, 16 weeks old… we are happy they are pooping outside at this age LOL!!! And hind end awareness is most easily built with food reinforcement that is a little ‘boring’ in presentation, so between her being a bit older and the food getting more interesting when it is not moving as much, I think she is now reaching the point that you will see more progress with hind end stuff.
On the video – this was all about placement of reinforcement! First couple of reps were really spot on, she backed up, head low. But the placement of reward had your hands a little high so by the time you got the reward tossed, it ended up being over her head and late so she turned around. And then… turning around got built into the behavior. She is smart and efficient: I mean, why back up when clearly the reward is for turning around!
In your defense: she is small and quick so you didn’t have a lot of time. We just need to adjust your mechanics. A couple of ideas (in no particular order):
– drop the “yes” marker and replace with a quieter get it – I think the yes is too stimulating and draws her attention up to you and your hands, which is part of the turning around. A quiet get it will help keep her head down and locked into the food being thrown low
– Your hand should stay low, at her nose level below your knees, the whole time. Don’t raise them back up to your knees, you don’t have time 🙂 And this will help buld in self-controL!
– with your hands staying super low, drop the first cookie between your feet with one hand, toss the reward cookie low and towards/between her front feet with the other to keep her head low and NOT have her turn around to get it – multiple treats in each hand will help this. By the time you drop then reload, it is too late – she has offered the backing up then you ended up throwing high so she turned around. You don’t need to throw the treat behind her, think of her front feet and the area under her belly as a hockey goal: toss the treat into the goal so she has to back up and not turn around to get it.Great job here! Let me know what you think!
Tracy>> She’s fun and the first of my Berners to be able to transition from food to tug and back again. Hope I can keep that going! I expect the more running I add, the more she will focus on me.
I love that she can go back and forth from food to toys! You can reward her tug release with a low value cookie, so she is quicker on the ‘out’ but that is not a high priority – keeping the tug drive really strong is a higher priority for now.
If you think she might look at you more when you are moving faster, you can go to a higher value toy and let her go as soon as it lands. And check out the game where if they look at us and we get to the toy first, we win! If you win, I bet she stops looking at you on the next rep LOL!
T
Hi again!
Another great session here with the Decel and turn. Berners have so much power that we need to teach her how to control it as she decelerates into a turn – she did a great job here!
She also has great food drive, I love it! Is she able to go back and forth between food and toys? If so, you can use food to help reinforce the out of the toy (she was not sure fast about giving it back in the previous video) but if the toy drive reduces when food comes out… then don’t introduce food into the toy games, we can build up the out by using toy rewards.The decels and pivots look super strong. She works so beautifully and is so physically coordinated that I had to keep checking that she was only 6 months old. She is so cool!!! 2 suggestions for you:
For the agility pivots, you can get your cookie hand lower (more down at your knee or just below your knee) to keep her head lower. This will translate to better turns and focus forward on the obstacles and not as much looking up at you (if you also train obedience where we would want her looking up more, you can feed higher).Her pivots looked awesome, very bendy!!! This was especially nice when she was on your left side (bending to her right) also really good without the cookie in your hand. Super!!! She is not quite as bendy to her left – she is good to the left and GREAT to the which just means she is a righty 🙂 and might also mean that you have worked her on your left side (turning to her right) more. So when pivoting to her left (she is on your right) go more slowly so she can work the bending mechanics, and be sure you are doing plenty of reps on that side. When she is in your left to turn to her right, your speed was really good and you can try to go a little faster on that side too!
Great job here! I think you can add more distance on this game too – throwing the treat even further away so she is coming at you with more speed and will have to work her deceleration a bit more.
Have fun!
TracyHi! Hope you had a lovely Thanksgiving!
>>Just sending one to be sure I did this correctly. If not, I’ll need to rent a 5 year old!>>
Ha! Totally relatable – My 5 year old niece is far more tech smart than I am.
She is SO FUN and I love her toy drive!!! Great job here with this session, you structured it brilliantly:
Great play, then you tossed it and watched her, and let before se looked back at you. PERRFECT! And your tugging with her is super fun, she is really engaged with you and the game.
When you added motion on the 2nd to las rep, she looked at you a little but then was fine on the last rep, driving ahead of you beautifully – so keep adding your motion and throw the toy further so you can really run. She is ready for you to move to the next step (posted last Tuesday) where you get to race her a bit 🙂 Also, this is a good game to take on the road – the more we can generalize it, the better! She seems pretty mature, mentally, for a 6 month old pup which is great because we will be able to add things really quickly.Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi there!
Goat games:
Knowing a little more about Dellin now, I think there were too many cookies in a row here at the beginning of the goat games video – and I am pretty sure she did not swallow that first one LOL! She did swallow it when she swallowed the 2nd one.
The flow of the session was much better when you got the toy involved! There is nothing funnier than watching a border collie chew to make sure they swallow the treat LOL! Great job with that and getting the toy involved more. Having the toy involved gets her really exciting for the goat games, so you can even have her get on and release directly to the toy. Her confidence seems perfectly fine and she seems very happy to put her feet on stuff, and she likes the action – so we can use this type of game to slide in more cookie value!>>I have been working on wing wrap foundation to get a system for rewarding. >>
Perfect! And basically, everything we do involves finding a system for rewarding: we either apply existing reward systems to the behavior we want, or we install a desired skill into a loop or pattern of reward system. It makes training the beasts SO much easier 🙂
With the bowls and cone, she almost looked like she was enjoying the food! LOL! You didn’t have to spend as much time watching to see if she swallowed it haha! When she offers to go back to a bowl that has a cookie in it and eats the cookie: bring out the tug toy. She doesn’t need to do many in a row, but that offer of going back to a bowl with the – ewwwwww – cookie in it is HUGE!!! This can fit into the master plan of building food drive 🙂 In that moment, she is choosing to offer behavior with and for food, so you can reward her heartily with the toy.
And we can gradually slide the cone further away til it is about an arm’s length away (might take a couple of sessions) then we want to get you standing.
>>And I’m letting her win the toy and playing a little differently. I’m thinking this would be a good place to use the hollee roller for chasing. I may try that next session.>>
Perfect and perfect! What I am finding really happy-making here is that you are able to train with food and she is not looking sad about it 🙂 It is not nearly as expensive to train with food as it was initially, you are doing an awesome job of raising value!!! It is progressing really quickly.
If you have time and a place to do it – take one of these easy, action-type behaviors and go somewhere else so you can transfer the food value to new environments. Even if it is a different room in the house, it will be worthwhile to generalize eating as a reinforcement.
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi! Thanksgiving here was nice and quiet 🙂 Hope you had a good one too!
For the toy play, you can do ‘all the wrong’ things like let her win, let her run around, let her try to grab it a little from your hands…. that builds toy drive and then it is easy enough to install markers, retrieves and out procedures on top of that. She was pulling really hard here!! And for the out, you can build the toy drive and get the out by giving the toy right back after a retrieve or out. If you take the toy away to get to ‘work’, you might accidentally de-value the toy play.
My Contraband pup thought this video was FUN, he liked your noises and wanted to join. That is good!!! Normally he sleeps through everything, so it is a compliment that he liked your video lol
For the baby goat work: easy peasy! SHe was great about getting right on the Cato board. Working on the Cato board causes her to compress because it is small, so you can make a bigger playing field for her so she can extend a bit – if you have 2 Cato boards, you can put two of them together for more space (or any two things – Cato board plus fit bone or something 🙂 )
One mechanics suggestion: get the cookies ready before you put the board in, so that you can click and then deliver the treats faster… mainly so she doesn’t sit. And if she does sit… toss the treat off to the side so she doesn’t think of this game as a stay game. We will want her to be standing on the planky and goaty stuff and not defaulting to a sit. Now, if the Cato board is intended to have her default to a sit – you can use something other than a Cato board for her to goat around on 🙂
The phone alarm was a little distracting at the end but I don’t think she was worried. Good job pairing it with treats!
Nice work here! Let me know what you think!
TracyGood morning! Hope you had a good Thanksgiving!
>> Now I just have to come up with the words. So, in context is it a compound cue with “push” and the backside left or right wing wrap verbal – like “push” + 1 of those 2 or is the new cue all inclusive, meaning, go to the backside of the indicated jump and continue in a wing wrap and chase me down the line?>>
It is a different all-inclusive cue. I used to use a compound cue but my dogs told me it was ridiculously late LOL! And they were correct, it was very useful feedback from them. And I saw that in other dogs too. So now I say “back” for the slices and ‘digdigdig’ for the circle wrap. I like shorter chattered cues for collections, but that might just be a personal bias (certainly not rooted in science or anything LOL!) Since Push is your slice cue, you can consider something different like backbackback?
>>Hmm…I think you overestimate me.
Not at all! Your mechanics and attention to detail are fabulous!
>>I have been trying to reinforce more weight shift back lean back tug with him since he’s pretty happy to do a more passive, head up tug or a shoulder/neck killing (for both of us) thrash. >>
Ah yes, the thrashing, if feels like we are deep sea fishing and hauling in a marlin LOL! Do you have any bungee toys? It helps preserve the shoulders/neck of both me and my thrashers.
>>We have done some of this gradually at first but he never showed any worry so we pretty quickly went to pretty loud front porch tile with him slamming the board around. I can do and video more of this to post if you want.>>
Perfect! You don’t need to post videos if it is perfect and easy for him 🙂
>>So far we’ve just been using a 2 front feet off the object behavior with the cue “feet” without an actual physical target involved.
That is fine to shape it – be hyper away or your position and motion, so you don’t accidentally build in your decel or foot position as the cue. Dogs are so brilliant are reading cues before we even realize we are doing them LOL!
>> In the past I used a nose touch target for 2o2o but in his current puppy pre-agility she’s having us not use a physical target for the teeter and we’re working on running for dog walk and a-frame. So far for teeter we’ve just been doing bang game in class and some very early up plank stuff at home (some of that is in what we did today for planks). .>>
All sounds good! I do admit, though, that I still use the old school nose touch target for the 2o2o on the teeter (but not for a 2o2o dog walk, although I do all running DWs now anyway). The results that the 2o2o nose touch target produced are so outrageously amazing that I have not changed that method (been using it since 2004 LOL!!!!) All other contact training methods have evolved and been updated, but the nose touch for the teeter is still the best imo (although I have evolved how I teach it :))
>>Today’s sessions we did some wobble board, some tug on wobble and lots of planks – mini plank, middle of dog walk on the ground, middle of dog walk about 18″ off the ground and then just teeter up with no tilt.>>
Great sessions here!
Playing on the baby plank looks really good – do you have naything you can elevate it with while it is still stable?
For more balance/coordination challenge, you can add turning him away from you with a hand leading him through it as a lure for now. The goal would be to get him to do a complete 360, degree turn. Also, does he know any tricks where he picks up an individual paw (high 5, shake, or isolations where he lifts just one foot)? You can add that in too!The wobble board work looked good too – good clicks for the decision to move it and you can start those clicks on the very first decision to move it when he jumped on (when he didn’t get that click, he went to offering other behavior, which it why there was a delay in moving it at first).
He liked the weight shifted tugging!! Love than he offered backing up to it when you had the toy! Yes- it is all about that hind end, Ripley! Good boy!
We can change how we let him win so winning is more fun for him – you can release him and throw the toy forward, I think he would like that!Plankrobatics looked really good on the low DW outdoors and also look great on the slightly higher one! Jumping on and off in the middle is so important for balance if they ever get in trouble with balance or footing while running – they will know how to balance and will know how to safely dismount if needed. As with the smaller plank indoors at home, you can add in turning away in a complete circle and any single paw-lift tricks he might know.
Teeter games: The lower teeter plank where he drives to the end for a cookie is a game I play and really like! He was great! I loved all of the position and handling challenges you showed him! When I play this one, I don’t have the dog run off the target end because I don’t want to rehearse running over the spot where the board meets the ground (that is the sacred 2o2o spot LOL!) so after the dog turns around and gets past the pivot, I release off the side to chase a toy. The release verbal gives the permission – I know that it would theoretically give the permission to run over the end of the board but running through the end might create confusion when you ask him to stop and he has a reward history of running.
>>Until growth plates are closed I’m not rushing to get the board moving a lot or very far
So true! And plus all the foundation work makes it easier to get to the full teete rwhen he is all grown up 🙂
Great job here on all of these! Let me know what you think!
TracyGood morning! Hope you had a lovely Thanksgiving! Mine was peaceful – playing with the dogs outside in the 65 degree weather followed by wearing pajamas, cooking, eating 🙂
First video – I really liked this session because it felt like you were working to sort out connection and timing while keeping it really fun for him, rather than just doing a few reps without thinking about things for each rep. Yay!
On your blinds crosses: Being outside gave you both lots of room to run run run – the connection is the hardest part in handling in general and with blinds specifically, which is why we start them so early 🙂
To make connection with such a little dog, you can experiment with what works best – the goal is that you can see his cute little face and that he can see your cute face too 🙂 So try these and let me know which one feels better and works better:
– you can think of pointing your dog-side arm all the way back to his nose, like your fingers have magnets on them to his nose 🙂 That means your arm will be extended back and downwards, elbow locked back.
– or you can try ‘dipping’ your dog side shoulder down – your dog side arm will still be a little back but the dipped shoulder might feel and look better for connection>> thus I think he was anticipating he side change because he was never really sure in the first place what side he was supposed to be on>>
I agree we can clarify the connection – you can pretend there is a jump between you and him if that visual helps!
On the first rep, your left arm was kind of close to your leg and as he started to move, your closed your shoulder forward a little – so he started reading it as a blind cross (which is actually a GOOD thing!!!) If you freeze the video at :04, you will see what I mean about the closed shoulder even thought the toy was present.
Compare it to the next rep at about :12 – you were more connected for longer and I think he knew exactly where to be at all times.
Then freeze the video at :19, I really liked the connection there and the arm was further back to him so he again knew exactly where to be! You were a little late on the blind, probably because you were thinking about connection as the priority, and that is fine 🙂
The rep at :27 was perfect. Click/treat for you. And a shout out to the hubby for being helpful with holding and with feedback! Love it!
A side note is that we don’t want the dog locking onto the toy, we want them locking onto the handling so when he is looking for connection and not at the toy? Perfect! We want to be able to run with a toy in training and have him ignore it in favor of watching your handling 🙂
One other thing: From the restrained recall, you don’t need to release (he is not in a stay) you can just call his name on those.
Drive ahead video:
>>For this one, I tried the treat throw back and he could never find it, so that didn’t really work.
When you work on grass, you can try tossing a big, light-colored treat onto a big towel or into a big bowl so it is easier to see. He will get used to finding treats in the grass eventually then you can fade the towel or bowl.
>>I am not sure if it’s undesirable in this case to have a helper but I did it anyway because without being able to use the treat throw I wasn’t sure how else to “cheat”.
It is always good to have a helper when you don’t want to use a stay and you need to cheat to win 🙂
On the drive ahead from the collar holding – try not to say OK – try to just say get it or go 🙂 When you win – be sure to reset to start the race rather than just throw. It worked better when you had your helper 🙂
I love that he was smoking you on the bigger distances! Don’t give yourself as much of a lead out so he can begin to feel the wind in his hair and experience the thrill of leaving you miles behind hahahaha
>> It was interesting on a few of these where he kind of blew by the toy at first a little bit…I am glad he was moving that fast! But I think he has a bit to learn about self-induced decel and body awareness perhaps
I think he was trying really hard but being a terrier, it was hard to get his head down, maintain enough speed to win, and not go ass-over-teakettle while picking up the toy. And we don’t want him to slow down on these and we don’t want him to tumble, so we can tweak the type of toy to something taller than he can grab without having to lower his head as much. Does he like a hollee roller? I love those for this game, because they sit high enough off the ground that the dogs drop their heads a little and thn can scoop it up to win without having to slow down much or run past it by accident. Or do you have any toys that have a higher ‘profile’ when they are on the ground?
Great job here!! Let me know what you think!
Tracy
