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Hi!
She was excellent to hold the stay while you put the toy on the ground, then release directly to your hand – in both. YAY!!!
Since this went so well, we can start fading out actually touching the hand 🙂 She has to pop up to touch it and in a real serp, we don’t want her to touch it anyway – we want her to come in then turn herself back out.
To get that, you can say your ‘get it’ cue just before she gets to your hand, so she kind of side swipes you and then goes to the toy. The goal is that she comes towards the hand then turns herself to the toy – and that is the behavior we will apply to the jump.
Great job here!
Tracy
Hi!
He did a great job with the pattern game! There were EXCITING THINGS happening and the pattern game really helped him engage with you and ignore the environment. What a good boy! You don’t need to wait for him to engage, you can start the game the instant you walk into the room 🙂
He tugged brilliantly in the ring! And what a superstar, finding the jump immediately 🙂 He had a little trouble on your left: you are correct that there is probably a bit of value for heeling.
When the instructor is talking, you can kneel and hold his collar – then re-engage when she is done. He kind of mentally wandered in that moment. No need to handle the line, walking past it is fine because he will learn to find it without you needing to be near it 🙂 You can see how well he found it! He was really flying!And it was great advice to break it off and play – and how cool that he ignored the toys there the whole time!
Really great session, especially in the new location. I am so proud of him!! Great job to you both!
Tracy
Hi!
>But with little dogs I am unsure. My bump jumps are quite large (relatively speaking). I dont see the difference in terms of forces with jumping a bar and jumping a bump jump which is a little smaller but wider. >
Smaller dogs do make it harder to find jump bumps! I use half or even a quarter of a pool noodle with my littles. The force is smaller that way, plus they can learn all the concepts and coordination, without ever knocking a bar. I don’t want to accidentally desensitize them to knocking bars by starting them too early on bars.
> I know with a bump jump they can stand on it but is this good in long run (I dont think mine would do this) >
Mine don’t stand on them either
>I have asked a couple of more senior instructors and got a blank look. >
😂 😆
>I was thinking perhaps a cut up pool noodle as it is alot smaller but a roll of towel is also a good idea. >
Yes – pool noodle and a rolled up towel are my 2 favorites 🙂
>Do love all the work around ignoring toys and working with toy you have – this is so good for Ziv and when he can listen with the toy I know he is in good work mode. very good practise for ignoring distractions in the ring.>
He is doing well! It is fun to see them learning and I agree, it is great practice for ignoring distractions in the ring.
Have fun!
Tracy
Hi!
It was really fun to see him get to open up and run run run on these sequences. He is FAST!!!
He missed the tunnel on the first sequence but I think that was just an oopsie of “oh! I didn’t know it was there!” because he was quite perfect with it after that.
He was having a bit of confusion about finding the wings after the tunnel. He was not sure if he should go to the wing or to you, but we can sort that out really easily 🙂
– to let him know when it is th wing versus when it is the toy in your hand, keep using your directionals but also use a marker for the toy. Sometimes he was getting the toy, sometimes you wanted the wing, so he was not sure which. The toy marker will help a lot.
– when you are handling, now that he is flying: no need to use your arm to show him the line. You can be more upright (makes it easier to run) and show him the line by moving and by looking at him pretty directly while you move. Looking at him directly will require your dog-side shoulder to be dipped down a little but you don’t need to how the line or obstacles with your hand.
You can point back to him but I think that will be too much like showing him the line at this stage. So for now, just run and look downwards at him and I bet he finds the lines really easily.
Great job!!
Tracy
Hi!
The threadle is going really well!
2 ideas as you add more motion:
– Move into your position with the threadle arm already up so he doesn’t think the arm movement is the release (because they happen simultaneously). It will feel weird but it will prevent stay confusion 🙂And as you threadle – maintain direct eye contact and keep your arm back: that is the cue to take the jump. Turning your shoulder forward or softening connection will send him past the jump like he did early in the session. Keeping the connection and arm back keeps your shoulders facing the jump, which helps him commit to it.
Layering:
Yes, definitely need a better toy for throwing – that orange one just splats to the ground LOLHe did well finding the layering and turning to the tunnel. To get a better turn to the tunnel you can change the verbal to “jump” instead of “go”. The “go” verbal provides too much extension, so “jump” will tell him which obstacle but also let him know not to carry on straight.
>I did keep using the check ( wrap) verbal so when I ask for the tunnel and not the jump it’s going to suck lol!!>
This is accurate 😂 😆 you might need to refresh the check check wrap to the tunnel before adding it to the layering game LOL!
Great job :)
TracyHi! The starfish is off to a great start – it is totally the hardest wing/tunnel game 🙂
Making the outside arm more obvious helped her lock onto it when you were working on the single wing. Compare the rep that started at :29 (nice obvious opposite arm, she had no questions) to the rep that started at :33 (the opposite arm was not visible and the dog-side shoulder was forward, so she went to the other side of the wing)
One suggestion to make it more obvious: have that opposite arm lower. It was generally just below your shoulder but if you can get it more to the level of your hip, I think she will see it even better 🙂
Turning to set the line also helps her find the correct side of the wing. The goal is that we are a bit turned so we are moving parallel to her path – not towards the wing. That way the line of motion also looks different (to support the arm and verbal cues). A good example of that is at :55 where you were turned and moving parallel to the line you wanted her to take to the wing and she nailed it.
When you move more directly to the wing (like at 1:35) or have your feet pointed to the wing, she is not sure which info to choose: feet/motion or arm/verbal. So to set the line to the tandem turn, you can show her the arm but also turn away from the wing a bit. Those will work together to se it really well!
Nice work here!
Tracy
Hi –
> also wanted to mention that Brioche is unable to settle on his cot during his puppy obedience class when we are in between exercises.>
He is probably too stimulated to hold a down or truly relax for now. I have no problem with that – at this stage, just maintain a criteria of staying on the cot. Doesn’t matter what the position is, just don’t get off the cot. As he gets used to the environment more, he is likely to settle himself into a down or at least be better able to hold it when cued. If he is not able to hold it and is repeatedly asked for it or told he is wrong, you are creating friction and stress so it is worth it to let him stand as long as he doesn’t get off the cot. And he can have a chew bone or something on the cot to make it easier to settle in.
Tracy
Hi!
A couple of ideas for you:
>His behavior was similar to being outside. However, he would fixate on the distraction and she had to animate the toy to draw his attention back. >
In the new environments, stick to easier games that he doesn’t have to devote a lot of thought to – that way he can devote more energy to ignoring distractions. That can be stuff like recalls, or blind crosses or tunnels: fast, fun, easy!
Separately from this – work on the stealth self-control games at home (from MaxPup 1). This includes bringing some leaves into the training area and letting them be n the ground, or turning on a fan so they fly around a bit. Or putting on videos with barking dogs or agility noises in the background. And while this is going on, play simple games to help him learn to ignore things in the environment.
And, brush off the pattern games and use them a LOT. They are great for helping him ignore distractions.
>I have never had a dog like this who would not focus on me and it’s annoying.>
It might be annoying but it is not that abnormal, so it is good to make training plans and not get too worried about it 🙂
> I don’t feel like it is teenage brain as he has been like this from the beginning especially with the windy outdoors- things moving and blowing around issue. >
I don’t think it was ever directly addressed or worked through… when it was starting to be a point of discussion, winter hit and all the training went indoors.
>And, yes, we are still dealing with a GI issue. Lots of mucous in the stool and pretty much not solid. >
This is heavily linked to behavior. Gut biome cannot be separated from behavior, and it can 100% be part of why he struggles to ignore distractions in the environment (especially quieter environments where distractions are more obvious). There is a ton of science behind the link and how it affects processing in the brain but getting his gut sorted out is a top priority.
>The vet said to just stick with cooling foods (no chicken, lamb, goat etc) as per the Chinese medicine philosophy. Turkey and beef are okay. >
Beef is a neutral food, but turkey is not neutral or cooling. It is possible he has an allergy. Maybe a completely novel protein trial and take out other ingredients?
>So I am sticking with one formula of food for now and have to gently cook the raw and add a digestive enzyme. >
Is the enzyme a probiotic? That will be important to his long term gut health too.
>He is very thin for the amount that he had been eating so doesn’t seem to be utilizing all that he eats. >
Poor little guy 🙁 Have you done a blood panel too, to see if there is anything else going on?
>It will get sorted out but I’ve had issues with Benni all his life and he is about to go for an abdominal ultrasound so I am not happy that Brioche is starting with issues. >
Are they related? I think so, yes?
Also – have them do a cobalamin test. One of my dogs had similar issues to what you describe and it turned out to be low folate. She is on a folic acid supplement and has had no further issues.
>Too much stress added onto my hamstring >
It is stressful. Ugh!!!
>I bought some grilled steak slices today and will see if that ups the ante for Brioche without causing additional GI issues. >
Just a couple of reps as a test drive is all you need 🙂
>It’s freezing cold and snow flurries AGAIN.>
This winter is NUTS. We had a record high of 85 degrees on Wednesday, and an inch of snow on Thursday. Insane.
>I signed up for MaxPup 3 but I’m pretty behind on all the handling stuff since I cannot do it until I can at least jog.>
No worries, Maxpup 3 starts with walking agility games 🙂
>I have a question on the release from a stay. I forget how I did it but Benni will take a jump or a tunnel without me saying “break” if I just say what I want…”jump” or “tunnel” which is what I use when those are the first obstacle and I am lateral to him. Brioche doesn’t move until he hears “break”. So I’m not sure if I want to mess with that at this point in time so as not to muddle his stay?>
You can begin by naming the obstacles in sequence: I am pretty sure he has heard “tunnel” a lot so you can add in using a generic “jump” verbal. Then take out the stay for a bit: hold his collar, say ‘jump’ a few times, then let him go and reward for taking the jump. If he has no questions, add in the sit with the obstacle name as the release. I think it is useful to do!
>PS when does max pup3 begin?>
March 31st!
Tracy
Hi!
He was a super good boy here! And I think he found a new gear of speed 🙂 Fun!
He picked up the layering concept really easily so you can add 3 things:
– layer the tunnel and keep going straight to a wing out past the tunnel (the sequence I wing – jump – wing)
– add the advanced level where he does the wing to the jump then you cue him to take the tunnel after the jump.
– cue the check wrap on the wing and ask him to tunnel, NOT layer 🙂 as a balance rep.
>I don’t think I was supposed to use my check when I got to the other side of tunnel?>
Correct – I think the check check indicates tight wrap for him, yes? And that might bring him back to the tunnel, based n how this was set up.
When you were not layering, the check cue worked well because it fit the line the best (he was definitely wrapping tight) but then when you added the layer and moved the wing, you can use a right verbal then your go verbal.
He didn’t want to bring the toy back at the end – did he need a break? He did really well in the session so he might have needed a break, or he was avoiding splatting himself on the throw (he totally splatted/twisted on the last rep). You might want to use a toy to throw that will throw really far, and will keep moving and is easy to scoop up like a hollee roller with a tennis ball in it. He liked this to for tugging but it lands flat and we don’t want him to twist himself.
Great job here!
Tracy
Hi!
>It was fairly normal & high end for Cobalamin. The folate was on the low end of the normal range though.>
My Hot Sauce takes a folic acid suppplement – she had some weird health issues about 18 months ago and was low on folate (was messing up her thyroid etc) and she is back to 1000%. Folic acid is water soluble so you can’t go wrong supplementing it because they will just pee out what they don’t need, according to my vet.
Looking at Lift’s video:
The soft brake looks really good! You supported it with a bit of shoulder turn and lateral motion so her turns were pretty perfect. The wrap brake at :47 was a good balance – also loved super nice!
When you did the circle wrap at 1:01 – At this stage of training, she needs to you support commitment by looking back to the landing spot as you pass the wing. You took off running forward so she didn’t commit. Kaladin doesn’t need the support behind him so will let you run forward but Lift still needs the commitment support to override the motion.
You did reward her about 5 seconds later after asking for a spin, but it would be even better if you just reward right there – she got frustrated when you tried to send her to the start wing without a lot of connection . Even with an eventual reward, the frustration bubbles over.
You can also reward a find my face moment there as if it was not an error and totally what you had planned 🙂
You got the circle on the last rep by staying on the landing side more, but I bet you can move forward like you wanted to as long as you keep looking behind you to the landing spot.
Kaladin’s video: Super nice soft brakes too! He knows this game and was able to maintain speed while also setting up the turn. GOOD BOY!
>Or maybe it’s because I was late with the soft brake like on right turn at 0:30. >
Yes, that cue was late – be sure you do turn your shoulders along with the brake arm. At :32 he had already made a takeoff decision when you showed him the arm and shoulder turn, so he jumped straight. On the other reps, you showed the cues a stride or two sooner so he collected before takeoff.
At :51 you did a wrap brake and said it was awkward 😂 It probably felt that way because you were accelerating forward with the brake arm up the whole time. Try to accelerate without the brake arm, then add it when you decelerate. That is more like what you did at :57 but that was one stride late on starting the decel.
>Is there a case when you shouldn’t use an exit line on a wrap or tighter turn? I was thinking about it on the wrap but didn’t execute it well at all.>
There should always be a clear exit line on a wrap or tight turn – trying to connect with the shoulder closed leads to wide turns, even with the most advanced dogs at the highest levels. The exit line arm is not always obvious when the handler is very comfy with it – what it looks like eventually is the dog-side arm all the way back, handler looking back at the dog, and the barest hint of the exit line arm. The arm is used to create the connection, so it doesn’t need to be super obvious if the connection is clear.
>I’m not sure if I have enough differentiation between brake arm and soft brake since I’m not doing the in your face version. Or it is mainly that the brake arm is a bit lower and your feet start to rotate whereas the soft brake you keep them pointed in the new direction.>
There are a few differences. One is in palm position (yes, the dogs read this LOL!). The wrap brake has palm more towards the dog, and soft turn has palm facing downwards more. On the wrap brake, the hand is lower and also, it is paired with forward-facing decel, which predicts the rotation that is coming. On the soft brake, the hand is higher and if paired with shoulder turning away (and line of motion turning away) to get the softer turn.
>What (if anything) do you do for 180deg turns?>
I consider the soft turns to be 180 degrees – let me know what you are thinking of as 180 degree turns and we will sort it out.
Nice work here!
Tracy
Hi! I almost missed this one, sorry!
Rusty did great here too 🙂 He is on a roll of being brilliant with everything!
Super nice job getting him in handler focus with the ready dance, then sending him to the barrel. He seemed to have zero questions. Super!
Since he did so well here, you can start a little further away and send him backwards to the barrel. Then as he is going to the barrel, you can start moving forward in the opposite direction (the direction you are facing). Keep looking behind you as you move to help support his line and commitment. This can help you move forward sooner and sooner so he has even more independent commitment.
Great job here!!
Tracy
Hi!
I agree that this is a hard game but you nailed it here!
>Rusty wanted to do a 360 after picking up the cookie. I played around with it until we got to this point>
When he was turning in the 360, you were probably still visible on the original side so that is where he thought you wanted him to turn to.
In this session, you were able to get ahead of him on the new side so he was able to turn the new direction each time. I think after a couple of reps, he had it figured out so he was already turning the new direction based on your motion. SUPER!!
You can try this concept with the prop now too – replacing the cookie throw you did here with a send to the prop (with the prop placed where you would have thrown the cookie :))
>I will be offline for a bit as I am going to a Kamal Fernandez Workshop tomorrow evening thru the weekend. Yes, Rusty and Folger are going too. Stay tuned!>
Wow! I imagine that it will be amazing 🙂 SO FUN!!!! I am looking forward to hearing about it – I am sure Rusty and Folger will be superstars 🙂
Great job here!
Tracy
Hi!
He is definitely a foodie 🙂 That is a very exciting environment and he was totally engaged! Wow! Good boy! Very impressive work here!And you can of course mix in sniffy walks so he can fully explore the environment, along with the pattern game here. Now that the weather is improving, you can start to bring all of the games outside 🙂
Great job here!
Tracy
Hi!
He did great here! I agree, he really seemed to love it 🙂 You don’t need to say ‘yes’, the ‘get it’ marker covers both the ‘that is correct’ and the ‘reward is thrown ahead’ elements.AS the challenges get harder, he might miss the jump (only one miss on this video). If he misses – don’t mark it or restart – just keep going but don’t throw the reward 🙂 Then turn and go the other direction so he can figure out how to get the reward 🙂
> Instead of turning while he is eating his snack, I think I need to be walking clear to both ends so he reads his motion off of mine.>
You have a few different options here to use:
– you can go all the way to the snack with him and wait, so he moves when you move and drives ahead of you.– you can turn when he gets to the snack and start moving, to see if he can find the jump with you way ahead 🙂
– you can move laterally away when he is getting his treat, to see if he can find the jump with you further and further away each time.
Great job!!
Tracy
Good morning!
>not sure why this posted twice, sorry!>
Ha! It was a good session so the internet wanted me to see it twice 🙂
When she was not turning away at the beginning, part of the cue was a little too early:
What was happening was your lower body was turning into her before your upper body (hands) cued her to turn away. So she kind of stopped because she was not sure where to be.
You can see it at :03 and :18 when your outside leg & lower body were stepping towards the new line but she hadn’t had a chance to get past you yet to lock onto the turn away hand.
Compare to :33 & :42 and after that- the cue hand had already started the cue and she was past your feet enough, so your outside leg stepping supported it rather than blocked the turn away. Super!!!
> I’m not sure where to place the prop so it’s in her view lol! >
Your prop placement is good! She isn’t hitting the prop because she is looking at the cookie hand in front of her nose, and doesn’t know that you want her to hit it 🙂 Easy fix! Try the turn away with empty hands (closed like you have an air cookie in them :)) and after the turn away, keep moving but lift the cookie hand up so it is not in front of her nose. Then she will realize the prop is there and will hit it. It might take a rep or two because she is used to following your hand, but she has a lot of prop value and will sort it out. You can stay next to the prop at first but then I htink you can add back your movement really quickly when she starts hitting it.
Great job!!
Tracy
