Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Hi!
She is doing really well and I am excited about how well she is finding her jumps!
Sequence 4:
When she is on the start line, she is definitely planning her first line đ So be sure to line her up at 1 so she is not facing the tunnel at all. If you are both sorta facing it at the start, she will release to it. Asking her to start on more of a slice (facing the video camera here) will help and you can also be facing the next line before the release.
The advice to have your hips firmly turned to the right was great – hips donât lie! Let her see that before the release so she takes off the correct direction. That is what you did at :18 and afterwards, and she was great!
Looking at the line and turn to 3 – on the first rep, you were a little late turning and also you were moving towards the center of the bar there at :31 which looks like a backside push cue. Good girl! The line you turned to was much better at :45! It was actually really good to see that she can read both of the cues there, based on the handling!
You added a spin on jump 2 and it worked, but I think that is more handling than you will want or need there (especially at 1:06 when you were really decelerated). A brake arm can help but also turning and running to the right turn wing was a strong cue for her.
After 3 at :46, getting into the layering:
– on the send past the tunnel, resist temptation to put your arm higher than your head because that turns your feet and shoulders to the tunnel. That is what happened when she took the tunnel.
Instead, keep your arm, make a BIG connection to her eyes (say the cues to her directly) and accelerate parallel to the line you want her to take – that will propel her into the layering.
On the reps at :57 and 1:09 – you had a lower arm (that let her see the connection a lot better and kept you parallel to her line) and more parallel line motion – so the layering looked great! 1:09 was especially good because you accelerated sooner so you didnât have to go past the tunnel at all.When she is on the layering line, it is good to see she is still reading the cues! You can accelerate more on the line and give a bigger connection cue and verbal to get the 6 jump – you were decelerated and fully turned at 1:12 so she correctly did not take the 6 jump. Good girl! She read it correctly as a turn cue on 5. Super!!
Nice work here!
TracyHi!
>It was slightly improved but I still struggled with it. >More than slightly improved! So much good stuff here!!
>We also tried a standing startline for the first time. Might have to play around with this a little more.>
She likes the stand-and-stare there at the first jump! Just be sure that the release is not paired with your arm coming up.
Very very nice opening on all of the runs here! She found the 1-2-3-4 lines brilliantly. The questions on 5-6 were more about timing.
You dropped your arm and moved into the cross at 5-6 too early (:10) and she fell on her head a little đ MUCH better timing at :39 and :59!! Nice! You were a little too early at 1:20 so she didnât take 5. The other thing that really helped at :39 an :59 was that you were accelerating into the turn. At 1:20, you were a bit too decelerated and started the cross too soon, so she was driving in to you. Good girl!
Stay closer to the 6 jump as you do the cross – stepping back towards it at 1:00 is why she went to the tunnel. She was already on the way to the tunnel when you turned your shoulders to 7. You can also add a spin on the 5-6 line, which you can do from wherever you are after the cross and will not present motion towards the tunnel.
Great job!!
TracyHi!
> next to the jump near the tunnel entry or near the jump close to the tunnel exit?>
Neither! You are going to be moving along a line similar to what you did here, parallel to her line. So before she enters the tunnel, she hears and sees the cues to turn. Then when she exits, you are walking along the line parallel to the jump, maybe 6 to 8 feet away. But it is not about your position, it is more about teaching her the value of turning and finding the jump on the exit of the tunnel.
T
Good morning!
>Wow, was I surprised at âourâ terrible threadle skills UNTIL I watched the video and realized that what I imagined I was doing was to cue it was 100% opposite of what I was actually doing, it was almost comical.>
OMG I can relate, which is why I am on this âwatch the video after each rep if something has gone wrongâ crusade. I have done sessions where things have gone wrong and I thought the dog just didnât understand or worse: I thought the dog was not paying attention. EEK Then I eventually watched the video and saw that my cues were really bad đ¤Łđđ. So something goes wrong more than once? Video time!
>At least Reacher still got snacks either way!! >
Yay! That is why the dogs let us noodle around with these cues – because they are paid for their efforts đ
On the video: look at all that glorious shade! I am jealous!!!!! We have tropical humidity here because of all the storms, but thankfully none of the rain and none of the flooding.
The other thing you can do if the threadle stuff goes wrong is to just keep going on course, then reward the next line (then watch the video LOL!)
I like that you chose the threadle wrap at 3 – that is a great place to put it! The line of motion is to turn to move parallel to the line you want him to take to the correct side of 3 – which turns away from 3 in this scenario.
Looking at the threadle wrap at on 3 at the beginning, you can turn and pull away from the line more dramatically so the line of your feet change. Your feet were pointing to 3 and you converged. The line you want will basically turn your feet almost to the tunnel as you decel and get the hand cues going.
At :57 you had the more dramatic change of line with feet and he looks at you, changing his line – that is when you can flip him back to 3, no need to run to it.
At the end when you revisited it, you totally had your feet turning to the correct line (2:23) and yes, you decelerated which helped. And the deceleration is an important element of the cue, so keep doing it đ Then your arms can flip him away to the jump. And when he is more experienced, he will flip himself away from the jump đ
Looking at the rest of the course:
I like that he was pumped up and got you to start at 1:15! He was like âLetâs GOOOOO!â Fun!
Love the BC 5-6-7 at 1:19, they looked great!
Threadle at 9 – even though you were pulling a little lateral at 1:25 and called him, I agree that your shoulders were too closed forward and your feet were facing the line he took. For the threadle slice, using the arm across the body doesnât quite open up the shoulders as much, so you ight consider using the dog side arm and swinging it back (think of strike a post from MaxPup :)) A big swing back of the arm can get a really obvious cue going for that!
I think the rest of it looked great!! He was losing steam at the end, but my guess is that he was physically running out of air – you were breathing hard too – so it is probably a stamina thing that you can work on. I do a combination of long jogs and sprint sessions, to help build up the dogsâ stamina (my stamina still stinks LOL!!) And in the heat, I do it in the morning or late evening (I am about to head out to do it in a few minutes before it gets too hot).
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
Tracy
Good morning!
>I think what felt ânot rightâ was the degree of turn from the wrap jump to the the jump after it⌠just seemed like more angle than the video and it probably was a little more because of the way I had to squish it a little bit to fit in the space. But it definitely worked!>
Yes, I agree that the angles might not have been exactly the same, but it totally worked!
>Yep, a touch late on the right verbalâŚbut I did remember it! ProgressâŚ.đ>
Yes! You are getting your words added really well!
>Question on the circle wrap. Is the timing for the blind more I move to takeoff side with Sly still on my left and when I get past the wing I do the blind and and sorta tuck in behind the wing? >
Ideally on the circle wraps, as soon as he is past you, you are moving forward to the next line. For now, you can keep connected until you see him approach takeoff, then you can do the blind. This will almost always be when you are also on takeoff side and moving to the next line. That keeps you moving forward and supporting commitment while getting the side change. Let me know how it goes today when you play with that!
Tracy
Good morning!
Serps/jumping in toward you:
She did well on these – it was a good reminder on how to use her body on this little grid-like setup! No worries about the extra stride between the jumps for now.
Next step: getting the reward in specifically for coming in over the bar on the backside rather than bouncing to the 2nd jump.
Starting with one jump (then eventually building to two or more), you can start by sending her to the backside and use your serp arm like you did here, and have the toy in your other hand. Send to the backside and move pretty fast (fast jog, not quite a full run yet). And as she goes to the backside, throw the toy to the landing side as you keep moving. I throw it closer to the entry wing to really exaggerate where to look. No need to wait til she is over the bar: reward the choice to go to the backside by putting the toy on the landing side so she looks at the bar rather than looks at your motion. We can add more and more motion and also you can do it as a regular front-side serp (starting from a wing before the serp jump).
Agility course videos:
Opening 1-2-3-4 and teeter entry looked good!! You can add a brake arm to jump 2 as you run up the line (as long as she sees both arms, even if you are running, she will add a stride). That will get a straighter approach to the dog walk so she doesnât have to line herself up for it
More about the teeter below! She was doing a great job driving to it!
The wraps at 8-9 looked. Really good too good. When she lands from 8, you can send to 9 rather than move to it, to get it a little tighter and so you can move away from it sooner. That way she can see the decel that helps cue the wrap, and also you wonât be on the landing side of it when she is jumping because that widens the turn and delays the blind (:23 on video 2)
A subtle thing that might explain why she sometimes picks up a threadle wrap cue when you didnât intend it:
She had a question on the way to the weaves at 1:10 on the first video – your dog side shoulder was closed and parallel to your side as she exited 9 and you were cueing weaves. That looks very similar to the threadle wrap cue, so you can see her do a little zig zag as she considered going to 8! Good girl! You motion overrode it and she did get the weaves. Compare to the next time there after 9 at 1:24, your dog side arm was back for longer (hand didnât move forward til after she caught up to you) so she had no questions. So on sends, keep your dog arm back towards her nose when she is behind you, so she can see the line you want and doesnât confuse it for the same cue as the threadle wrap.
She definitely found the weave challenge here too difficult and left the weaves earl. I donât think you marked it in the first run, so be consistent in marking them but also try to avoid the heavy markers like NO. Stopping her with something like âcome hereâ or âtry againâ will relay the message without being too much.
And also make the challenge easier if she is repeatedly failing (remember the 2 failure rule) – if you get two failures on the skill, make it easier by staying closer, for example, or not moving as fast, then rewarding by throwing the toy to the exit. Reward placement is key here – throwing the reward towards you, or rewarding by continuing t the next obstacle when skill-building draws her focus to the line you were running towards, which might make it harder for her stay in. So when going lateral on the weaves, put in lots and lots and throw rewards to the exit of the weaves (not placed rewards, more on that below :))The jump after the a-frame went best when you had nice big hand cues to it as you moved toward it. I think she was correct at 1:18 on video 1 there after the a-frame, it looked like you were cueing a threadle on the other side of the jump you were layering. When that happens and you get a blooper: keep going there, donât stop and reward. Yes, she likes the toy but stopping will read as punishment and can increase frustration. Plus, it is better for you as a handler to be able to reset a bobble immediately without stopping đ
Much clearer line there at 1:42, with decel and your arms in play to cue the turn away. That was super nice and set up the next line too! It was not as clear at 1:00 on video 2 – you had verbals going but you can add in your big arm cues and decel to turn her away there.
No video of the frame versus the tunnel here with the tree in the way, but also you were standing still at 1:42 so that might have been part of it – too much decel. At 1:49 you were moving, which totally helped.
After the 13 tunnel to get her to the backside on 14 – this is a good spot to give her the verbal cues when she is till 6 feet away from entering the tunnel Your motion cues worked well on the first video because you were in motion more at 12. On the 2nd video, you are stationary getting her to 12, then the âgoâ verbal was late on the 13 tunnel (she was already in it and you only said it once). So when you walk the courses, lock into the timing of the cues before the tunnel for all the tunnels.
That will also help her line after the 18 tunnel. You can Call her sooner before the 18 tunnel on the first video to get a better line on the exit. On the 2nd video you did call right before she went in (and her exit line was much straighter towards 19!), but I think you can call even sooner – a full 6 feet or more before she goes in. That helps guarantee she has seen/heard the cues and will get the exit line.
For the teeter confusion: She has excellent drive to it! She just doesnât know what to do when she gets on it. The behavior has shifted a bit as the teeter has gone into course work, because there are so many other things happening with motion, other obstacles, lines after the teeter, etc.
Two ideas for you:
Reward placement will be key here too (like with the weaves). When you get the criteria, the reward should be thrown past the teeter exit and nowhere near you or the next line đBut donât use a pre-placed toy. As is the case with most pre-placed toys⌠it is the cue for the behavior and when the toy is not there, the behavior changes. The behavior was great on the last rep when the toy was placed!
So to recover the behavior and give you lots of good things to reward, you can add in the target you used to originally train it. And is she a 2o2o or a 4on? For a 2o2o, have a target on th ground, a few inches off the bottom of the board (you can bring that into the ring at UKI trials!) If her behavior is a 4on, you can tape a target to the end of the board – that will recover the behavior and give yo ua lot of good stuff to reward, and then it is easy to fade the target out while still rewarding the behavior.
And if she doesnât get it⌠donât tell her a big no, that was too much and that was when she was not wanting to off of the teeter end. The behavior likely changed because you released early in competition (we have all done this LOL) and/or she was stopped for flying off, so the bet bet is to recover the behavior so she can be super successful.
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
Tracy
Hi! It was fun to see her cute face at the start of the video. Usually she is moving so face I canât see what her face looks like LOL!
She did well here! Yay!! It is a really hard exercise and she had a lot of success. As you work this, you can make your motion even more neutral in the 3 way discrimination – move very slowly and towards the fence, so she is working ahead of you and not getting any shoulder turn info. Your verbals sound pretty different from each other, so that will help too – and the less you help with motion, the more the verbals will begin to take over. It does take time but it is totally worth it đ
>And the weaves? No surprise they need work.>
The weaves are hard in this setup because they are the least visible/furthest away. You can move them closer so she sees them more easily.
Great job here!
TracyHi!
What a lovely field at the cabin! And upstairs video is perfect!!
> I am like 90% sure I cheated on some of these and indicated with my head/shoulders some of the time. >
I think a little cheating is ok in the early sessions đ because part of what we are doing with the young dogs is introducing them to the concept that yes, the jump and tunnel can indeed be right next to each other and, also yes, the dogs will be asked to discriminate. It is hard!!
He did well here overall! When starting from a stationary position, you can add in holding him so you can say the verbal a few times – then let him go. That was he can process it before he moves, rather than move and process at the same time (the dogs tend to go wherever they just got rewarded when they donât process before moving.
>But heâs interesting â where Mo takes the tunnel always, he was more likely to take the jump.>
He might be choosing the jump here because it is closer, or he might be choosing it because it has more value (as a reaction kin your training to Mochi having more value for the tunnel :))
You can also make the rewards looking different from the reset cookies:
When he is correct, have a big party and throw a reward. When he is incorrect, no worries, reset cookie at your side. That is a gentle way to tell him he was not correct but also keep him motivated to keep trying without getting frustrated.>A question for you re: Mo. The neutral line on this exercise is not neutral for her. Any motion in the general direction of the tunnel means GO TUNNEL. Even if thatâs not what Iâm saying. So Iâm assuming I start this out with like 1 step?>
I guess walking towards towards obstacles is not neutral for Mochi đ So you can try things that might be more neutral like slowly moving your arms up and down or moving them in slow circles at your side, or marching in place, or doing slow dance moves, etc. Hopefully those are more neutral and she can work on processing verbals even when there are moving body parts LOL!
Nice work here! Let me know what you think!
Tracy
Hi!
Looking at both videos of sequence 5 and 6:
Sequence 5:
First run: fantastic! Great connection, lovely timing of the BC and the tight turn after it. Yay!2nd run and 3rd runs also looked great – once she is heading to the line, you donât need the arm up high – it was getting higher and higher here. On the first run, you didnât use it nearly as much as she didnât need it. And coming back down the line layering to the end, she didnât need the high arm either. That is good to know, because the lower the arm (or the less you use it), the faster you can run!
Sequence 6: She was giving really good feedback here on cue timing and handling đ The key to gettin the tunnel is getting the turn on jump 8⌠which means the cues begin as she is taking off for 7.
One thing to add to your toolbox is using the video as a training aid: if something goes wrong twice, watch the video in slow motion and freeze it to see what she is seeing in the moment the turn cues. In this case she was seeing and hearing extension cues which is why she was pretty convinced she should go to the other side of the tunnel.
There was a bit of a domino effect here: the handling decision of not layering put you on the landing side of th 7 jump, which led to you doing a FC on the landing side of 7 which made the turn cues for 8 late which set up the motion which sent her to the other side of the tunnel. Plus she after a few reps where she failed, she might have been guessing because the info was the similar to the reps in terms of timing and motion, where she did get rewarded (sequence 5).
Looking at the runs:
On the first video: I donât know what she was heading towards out of frame, but you were totally facing it at :45 when you said push, so off she went LOL Good girl!Brake arms helped turn her to the 7 jump at 1:03 and 1:20 and the other reps after it on both videos. But that leaves you facing the backside wrap wing not the backside slice line. Then you did a FC from there, which put you in her way on the exit of FC so she had to go around you and at takeoff for 8, you were facing straight so she went straight.
Adding the spin at 1:24 and 1:39 and 2:22 was a better option after that FC to get the turn, but you were moving backwards out of it then setting a parallel line of motion so off she went. You were also saying tunnel (which is a powerful forward cue) rather than a turn cue, so the forwardness of the verbal cue was probably contributing to her continuing past it.
(And yes, you can check out the verbal games from Package 2 which work on the tunnel verbal versus a jump verbal đ )
On the 2nd video from later on, trying to run more to the tunnel only worked when you were standing still or running backwards đ
So what to do instead? A different domino effect can work in your favor, by using handling that can cue all the turns sooner:
You can sent to 5-6 and layer the 7 jump, so as she is over 6 you are already facing her in threadle position on 7. Then as she takes off for 7, you are cueing the tight turn on 8 (sending to it decel, verbal, brake arms). Then as she is approaching 8, you are already turned and heading past the tunnel to the 10 jump. That way she doesnât see any accidental motion out to the jump.When looking at a sequence with a big discrimination like this, I kind of back chain my handling cues to help decide what to do:
knowing that the turn on 8 is the key, I would think about when that cue needs to be shown (takeoff of 7) then then what would I need to do to be in a good spot to do it at 7, and then how can I get there on the 5-6 line.And, before revisiting this, I would definitely work the tunnel versus jump verbal game – that way even if motion or timing are not perfect she can process the obstacle name and pick up the line you want.
Let me know if that makes sense! Nice work here!
Tracy
Hi!
The jump grid is going well! Having you and the reward out at the end of the grid changes the picture so we get a good idea of what he needs!
In this session, because he is powering up the line more, the set point distance between 1 and 2 is too wide – he is taking a stride in there and should be bouncing. He did bounce the last rep but it was a really extended bounce, so moving the distance in a bit will make it more powerful. I use 6 feet for a 20 inch dog, so you can try 4.5 feet and see how he does. It should be a bit of a compression (like coiling a spring) to power him through the distance to the next jump.
With the food stationary, you can lean down and tap the target after you release him, to help draw his head down. He had his head up a bit looking at you. You can also use the âmoving targetâ (dragging a lotus ball, for example) to get more power and keep him focused downwards.
>You may have also noticed in the jump grid video Ven was a little distracted by his new toy. Itâs called the clam by tug-e-nuff and Iâm building his skills so I can throw it and he brings it back for a cookie. That way I have a toy I can throw during work. So far, he absolutely loves it.>
The clam is a great toy! I am o glad he likes it! And you can tie a light line to it and drag it as the moving target in the jump grids.
>What sort of grid work should we do next to continue building his skills eventually heâll need to be able to clear the AKC double and triple too.>
It is all basically theme and variations on this type grid, changing distances, adding spreads, and adding motion. But before you add spreads – he cleared the 16 inches but it was hard, so you can also look for conditioning programs that involve plyometrics for jumping. Most conditioning programs are mainly strengthening programs, such as building more core strength. The plyometric stuff builds the power he will need to find jumping really easy đ If you donât have anyone local to you, I can find folks for you online!
Pop out 4: you can use the clam here too, throwing it on the lines!
On the first video:
You can start him further from 1 so he gets one or two big strides before the jump to takeoff in more extension.Remember if something goes wrong⌠keep going rather than stop and restart đ
One of the things that will help with the bars is timing cues to begin earlier. For example, you can start the cues at the exit of the previous jump or exit of the tunnel. On this video, you were wanting to get close to the turn jump then show the turn cues, which ended up being late. So when you walk the sequences before you run them, be sure to look to the exit of the previous jump/tunnel and start your cues when he is still back there and not yet near the next obstacle.
The backside errors on 2 were connection errors – you were trying to use your arm to cue the backside but that blocks connection and turns your shoulders to the front of the jump. If you got close to the jump, he got it, but if you were further away he took the jump. Sending to the backside with your arm lower and pointing back towards him will let him see your eye contact and shoulders pointing to the backside line.
On the 2nd video, he didnât want to leave the start line at first – maybe he was concerned about something? Or maybe he didnât realize âaroundâ was the release?
The run here went well! Much clearer connection all the way through. Plus some really good timing spots!
Your timing of the threadle cue was really good, it started when he was over 2 so that made for an easy line to 3. And you had a very clear cue 3-4 so he didnât take the other jump out ahead.
At 5, your connection was good and you can be cueing the turns sooner. You said ârightâ as he was already lifting off. Ideally, he would hear that cue when he exits the tunnel. The timing of the âcomeâ for the threadle t 6 was good (he landing from 5) and then you can give him the flip away to 6 (:56) as soon as he looks at you there (you waited til he was close to the jump).
The blind is a good handling choice on 7-8! Try to start it as soon as he exits 6 and looks at 7. You started it as he was taking off for 7 here at 1:00, so he didnât see connection on the new side til after he had landed and taken a stride. The timing of the around cue for 9 was great: he was over 8 and you were already telling him about 9. Nice!!! To help him get the commitment on 10 as you are trying to move away, you can shift your connection to look at the landing spot as you move away. We have more on this coming in the next games package, to help get better commitment as we move away on these backside types of jumps.
Pop out 5:
>What should we work on to build the missing skills for this one?>
A couple of ideas for you!
You can look for lines where you push to the backside rather than threadle, then do the side change to get there. For example, you can get him on your right for 6, then push to the 7 backside, then blind to get him on your left to push to the 8 backside. Then 8 is a serpentine where you can push to the 9 backside on your left side (or you can do a blind on the landing side of 8 and push to the 9 backside from your right side.
When you were trying to do it all as threadles, your feet were sometimes showing him to front side (not the threadle side) making it more complicated. So going for the side change like a blind then a push will make it much easier.
And for the backside push cues: the main thing that will help is to keep your dog-side arm back a little behind you, so you can show very clear connection. That big connection will turn your shoulders to the backside line, and he is very likely to go to it. Resist temptation to point at the backside wing đ And if you feel like he is curling in and might not go to the backside, you can add the outside arm to the backside cue.
That should help a lot! We have more coming on backsides in the next training package too đ
He didnât want to release from the start line here either (and same thing happened at 3:10), so definitely add in rewarding the first jump. And, more importantly, keep going on course if something goes wrong. Freezing up on the start line might be because there is a lot of stop and go after an error – you often say âoopsâ or âalmostâ and stop, so even though a treat might sometimes get tossed it is entirely possible he still finds it deflating.
The trick to maintaining the motivation is to keep cueing the next line without marking or saying anything about what just went wrong. Let him run run run and fix the error in the next run, after you have walked it again.
You can also start him on an easier slice line (facing 2, more like you did at :51) so he can accelerate into 1 rather than start on a really hard turn.
Nice work here! Let me know what you think!
Tracy
Hi!
These are marked private – darned YouTube! Can you reset to unlisted so I can watch? Thanks!!Tracy
Hi!
I see what you mean about the tunnel exit turns! And based on what you were saying about when you were adding motion – we can make a plan that includes training and handling.
From the handling perspective: her best turn here was at :45 where you had a decent amount of urgency in the verbal cue and the physical cue. So you can build on that: give a VERY urgent verbal cue. This would be something that is LOUD and has the underlying emphasis of âI REALLY NEED YOU TO TURN!!!!â So instead of the quieter verbals like her name or soft turn verbals, you can use something like HEY HEY HEY as an attention-getter before the tunnel. Or her full name: âLU MARIE HERRGOTT!!â. And the physical cue can have both hands as a big stop sign towards her cute nose and very direct eye contact, as you turn your shoulder away.
You probably wonât need the urgent cues forever, but they are a good way to begin getting the turn you want đ
From the training perspective: the jump after the tunnel is what gets the reward, so deliver the urgent cues and then start moving along the line to the jump. Before she exits the tunnel, start saying your jump cue and repeat it several times after she exits. If she takes the jump? Yes! Big reward. If she does not take the jump? Nope! No reward.
When you do that, there is a possibility that you will get some failure and have a lower rate of success than normal. For this type of thing, you can go more than 3 failures but you will also need to have 3 things in place:
– put a marker on the ground 10 feet before the tunnel entry, and time your cues to begin as she passes the marker. That way you know your cues are being delivered before she enters the tunnel
– lower the height of the bar after the tunnel to 8 inches. It is entirely possible that she doesnât know how to organize herself to jump a taller bar there, so letâs make it as easy as possible to get success.
– your motion should be a slow-ish walk the whole time. No standing still, but also no running yet. If she misses with the slow walk, you can go to fake walking or swinging your arms.
She will probably take the jump if you are standing still, but that doesnât help you get it when you are moving đ But if you are running, she is likely to fail. So – slow walking until you get 2 sessions in a row where she has 90% success or more. Then you can move to a fast walk đ And we keep building up your speed.
And if you are running courses in classes or something⌠take out the sections with these tunnel turns and work them the exact same way, so she is not learning to get the turns to the jump at home but run past the jump in class.
You can throw the toy reward relatively early: when you see her locked onto the jump, throw it đ
Let me know how it goes! We can (and should) make this a priority for her because it is an important skill.
TracyHi!
>She knows the skill but my handling has to be perfected on it with her.>
Until the verbal is completely locked in and can override physical cues, the threadle wrap is all about your feet and the line you are moving along. When your feet were facing forward on the line parallel to her line for the threadle wrap: perfect! You can see this at :34, and also on the last rep (1:24) which was perfect.
Ideally, after the blind here or whenever you set the threadle wrap line, you turn to face the line parallel to hers and then decel as you move forward, until she gives your the cue to move fast again by locking onto the wrap side of the threadle.
Try not to face her or rotate towards her as you are getting connected after the tunnel, as that turns your feet to the other side of the jump and also creates more foot movement as you try to straighten the line for the threadle wrap.
Then when you do have connection with her (like after the tunnel in this case), keep moving straight with decel rather than stepping back in towards the jump at all. A little arm swoosh is fine to help her but donât use your feet to change the line because that requires perfect timing and footwork (plus I donât think she needs it and it is easy to go wrong).
When you were using your feet to change the line, you either got the wrong side of the jump (like at :24 when you were rotated towards her) or you get the threadle slice (1:02) or a push all the way around to the other sided (1:12 – yes, so fancy like you said on the video :)) Based on your feet, she was correct on those! So we can eliminate those errors by having your feet just go straight the whole time đ
Nice work here! Let me know what you think!
Tracy
Hi!
>This setup never felt ârightâ, no idea why? >
I think it was mostly right! What felt weird about it? 2 suggestions:
on the right turn cue at :03, you were a little late (he was almost at the takeoff spot when you cued it).On the circle wrap at :11, it looks like you stepped out to the side a bit and did the blind cross element of it while you were still on the landing side. Ideally you would be moving forward to the takeoff side for the blind.
I couldn’t see your position on the threadle wrap at the end, but your verbal sounded good and he seemed to have no questions at all there! yay!
Nice work! Let me know what you think!
Tracy
Hi! This went really well!
I really like this distance for him – he gets to open up and run run run⌠and it challenges you to have to run a bit more and connect sooner. And you did!
>The âgoâ was not the right word on the that one rep where I tried the 2 wings!>
I relate, the GO sometimes just slips out LOL!
On the FC there at :52, be sure to step forward into it. No need to rotate til he has locked onto the wing and passing you. You rotated as he exited the wing before the middle wing, so he looked at you as if asking if you wanted him to turn immediately or go to the next wing. You stayed there longer because you could probably see his question, so he picked up the other wing after the FC. So one step with the dog side leg will make that nice and smooth, and take him back to the tunnel after the FC.
Nice work!
Tracy
