Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Good morning!
>He will absolutely do it for a food lure. He might do it without a lure if he knows I have food reinforcement but still not reliably. >
One option is to do a hand touch line up at your side, which fades the food lure very quickly:
You do a dynamic hand touch back at your side (empty hand) then reward the touch while he is facing that way. Then hand cue to turn and stand at your side (reward) then cue a sit or stay(reward). Here is a video of it:
And always train in a high arousal state, as that will help him be able to do it in front of obstacles too.
Since the hand touch often has teeth involved, you can reward right before he touches your hand: as he is moving towards it more than as he is touching the empty hand. And as he understands it in higher arousal, the nips will fade out naturally.
Remind me if you have ever tried a between the feet lineup?
>If I ask him to line up with me and he’s in a struggle moment, he will run around in circles (not spinning, just actually running in circles), bark at me, possibly run at me and bite me and run away, if I’m trying to line up at a jump he’ll probably go and jump over the jump once or twice.>
All of this relates to arousal state, which is why you need to train it in a higher arousal state. If the arousal state context in training doesn’t match the arousal state context during retrieval (like when cued in front of a sequence) he will be largely unable to do it, and that is why you see all of this overarousal behavior: he knows you want *something* but doesn’t know what you want because the context is so different.
>He can do hand touches really well in lots of other scenarios, but not in front of agility equipment.>
Train it in a much higher arousal state but away from equipment at first. Then it will be much easier to get in front of equipment.
>If I carry him to the start and cue him to wait as I’m setting him down, he will do that so I have been using that as a strategy when wanting to use toy reinforcement in the run.>
That strategy is fine to use as you develop the lineup.
>Wondering if I should try a mat/station again to help him have a clear set up spot?>
You can bring it back out, but also train it in higher arousal – that way when you fade it out, he still has learning during higher arousal under his belt so you can have an easier transition to a start line without it.
Let me know how it goes!
Tracy
Hi!
In the effort to NOT have to add more words to our world 🙂 I use existing verbals (you will see it in the tunnel exit games in this class):For those L shaped tunnel exits (180 degrees), I use my soft turn verbals (left/right) depending on the dog. Sometimes all they need is a name call, sometimes they need brake arms too. So when the dog is about 6-8 feet away from entering the tunnel, I give the verbal and use the physical cues so the dog sees and hears it all before he gets into the tunnel. And it works great! Let me know if that makes sense!
Tracy
Good morning!
Pop out 1 looked lovely! Yes, nice break arms at 3 and he had a great turn to the weaves. And he is doing the turn away from the weave exit really well too!Pop out 2:
>PO2 still had some trouble 1-3 and in overthinking a bit, I did lose connection. >Yes, he slowed down there to see what you wanted.
You can stick a little closer to 3 until he lands, to set up the send into the layering so you don’t get too far ahead and have to decelerate.
>I stayed tighter at 8 so he did not go wide and used brake arms (I think) and got a really nice tight turn on 10!>
Yes! That looked great!
>PO3 did it correctly this time and felt it went well.>
Yes – just remember to stay connected heading to 6. He slowed down there to see the line when you were looking forward.
Pop out 4 – the opening looked strong! When heading to 6 ay 1:37, you can use countermotion at 5 so he sees you heading to 6 before taking off for 5, to tighten up the exit of 5. Super nice layering at the end! Yay!
Pop out 5:
A bit of countermotion at 2-3 and 6-7 (moving forward past the serp jump to show the line to the next jump) will tighten up the line at 1:52 and 2:03 as well. He is layering really well, so I bet you can tuck in right at the entry to tunnel 10 to get a tighter line there too, rather than go past it to support the 8-9 line (2:10)Pop out 6: this also went well!
>He did it correctly but slow coming out of tunnel.>
Yes – on the tunnel exits here, you can crank up the connection back to him. He didn’t see connection in 2 spots and slowed down:
Exiting the tunnel at 2:24 – he slowed down because your shoulder was closed forward and you were looking forward. He couldn’t see connection so he waited for more info.
The other spot was at 2:36, exiting the tunnel to the backside – And he was slower to the backside at because the connection was not clear.Great job here!
Tracy
Good morning!
That is a bummer about Lennan! Question – have you had a thyroid panel and/or a tick panel done for him? Low thyroid could absolutely be why he gets this off-and-on soreness and was tired/slower, plus also that inability to focus on the last day of the previous trial. Border Collies have plenty of low thyroid issues in their lines. He might not have the other classic hypothyroid symptoms like weight gain and greasy coat, but that might be because he is in the early stages. And a tick panel can show if there is a TBD causing the issues – those symptoms are often found in TBD as well.
Looking at the videos:
This went really well!
The good news about the walk through was that it was really easy to see your plan and your timing! Yay! You can add louder verbals because you were a lot louder in the real run 🙂 and also, you can run faster in the fast portion of the walk through, because he was super speedy here!One suggestion on the handling: The blind on the backside of 4 is more of a German turn, where you use countermotion to pass the exit wing before doing the blind. Doing it as he gets to the backside if you are also on the backside sets a wider line (which is what happened during the runs, where he didn’t see the next line and looked up and yelled at you 🙂 ) or even potentially the off course to 2.
The runs went really well!
Nice adjustment to *not* layer the jump on the way to the tunnel 6! You were ahead so it made sense to keep moving through.Great connection throughout! And the reward on 9 was perfect for the first run, and then he absolutely nailed it on the 2nd run. SUPER!
Seq 3:
On this walk through, you did have a German turn exit planned for 12 and that looked good in the walk through! And it was good training there – I am very excited about how well he found the backside (and not the tunnel) and a good balance would be to send him to the tunnel there too.One other small detail about the walk through:
Be sure to look at the tunnel exits more to plan the timing of what comes next. That will make the timing of the wrap after the tunnel easier and also get the push out to the jump after it on the other side easier too.Training the threadles went well – For the blind to the threadle on 2, you can delay it a bit for him so the timing of the blind doesn’t introduce the possibility of the front side and makes it easier to see the threadle cues.
Watching him on the threadle slices here at 10 – it is possible that making the outside arm visible (like at :23 in the walk through and at 1:16 in the run) makes the cue look like a turn away (wrapping right). Using the dog side arm only and not the opposite arm might be clearer info for him.
Great job here!
Tracy
Good morning!
Rain is annoying but it is better than zillion degree temperatures so I guess it is fine 🙂
>My indoor space is small (as you know lol) Any modofications we can do instead?>
Ok here is a goofy idea… do you have a large fan on a floor stand that we can use as an indoor bird simulator? I am thinking of something like this
https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Lasko-16-in-3-Speed-Oscillating-Pedestal-Fan-with-Adjustable-Height-Easy-Assembly-and-Quiet-Cooling-for-Any-Room-in-Gray-2524/100658983?g_store=&source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&fp=ggl&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D29A-029_017_ACS_FANS-NA-Multi-NA-PMAX-5163653-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-MinorAppl&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D29A-029_017_ACS_FANS-NA-Multi-NA-PMAX-5163653-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-MinorAppl-22855643987–&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22859506945&gbraid=0AAAAADq61Uey248KCj55KZtYncW_Qj4vt&gclid=CjwKCAjwyabTBhBFEiwAM3mNUBqvz5_FP3UL2NPMkEz3YiiA8A722bpRbjp8HGeSWVmik_Gh4dVPIRoCQk0QAvD_BwEAnd we put it up on a chair indoors – and attach paper strips to it. Then we teach her games to help her brain ignore things flapping over her head, which will help with birds.
You can also do the moving target game over a jump with a bump indoors, and the wrap proofing game either with a wing and a baby tunnel, or a wing and a barrel.
>I also think she now associates our yard with readily available birds!
She’s always scanning unless I’ve got her full & complete attention. >It is entirely possible that there is a conditioned response to the yard which screams BIRDS at her at this stage – partially based on her genetics (her genetics are lovely and also scream BIRDS) and partially based on her learned experiences.
>She isn’t like that at all in public places like the dog dome (pole barn), Dream Dogs (indoor training) when we are walking around for potty time or the rail trail & park that we have gone to. >
This is good! We can sort out plenty of ways to train in other environments. Is it a pain in the b*tt to not be able to train feely in your own yard? Yes. But is she still going to learn agility and be fabulous? Also yes 🙂
>I”m not sure how to break that cycle without drowning her in self control exercises (continuous short leash check in’s) I can’t shove cookies in her face the entire time, so when I stop she goes to the end of the leash & scans.>
I think the key is going to be more on the associative learning side of things (classical conditioning) and not the operant side of things (shaping or self-control exercises). Classical conditioning is more powerful and operant stuff will lose out every time at this stage.
>, if there’s a bird I have to interrupt, but I gotta tell ya, I can have food right in her face and she’ll ignore it! Probably because it’s kibble?>
I think in order to build a conditioned response in the direction we want… you need incredibly high value food rewards that she does not get in any other scenario. Kibble is a relatively low value food and also something she gets regularly. Time to pull out the best possible food that only comes out in your yard.
>Have you ever heard of box training? The dopamine box? After watching a webinar that Karen Deeds presented, I tried implementing this myself, it’s pretty cool! >
Yes, I think it has some interesting applications but I think it works differently than they think it works. The theory behind it is that the dog is anticipating a reward and that anticipation creates a dopamine spike… but dopamine is a lot more complex than that 🙂 And also, I think the value you are seeing from it is about the classically conditioned association between the box and food, not an operantly-derived learned behavior. And the dopamine/motivation effect that it draws its name from will dissipate when there is nothing novel or anticipatory about the food in the box, or if challenges are added that override the value of the box. Plus it is largely based on an operant behavior (keeping the head in the box) which will not be as powerful as a classically conditioned behavior – you are seeing a classically conditioned element of it when she gets excited to run to it, but that will fade it is it only ever putting her head in a box and keeping it there for the same treats, as other things are added to the environment.
Plus, as with any prop – we need to fade it out so she doesn’t rely on it as she learns the desired behavior of ignoring birds. In other words – we need her to not keep her head in a box all the time 🙂
>Right now the box has a higher value.>
Classical conditioning: box = yummy food and lots of it!
>There’s a process, steps to get where people have just used a target. >
Yes, move to the target steps as quickly as possible. That can also provide the classical conditioning element while allowing movement to the target and visual assessment of the environment. So you can set up a target in the yard (food bowl, etc) and go out to it and immediately drop a handful of steak in it… then back in the house. Classical conditioning: outside being paired with amazing food, no operant questions or choices required for now.
>Just wondering if you ever heard or tried this training since it really hits their arousal/regulation side from what I understand >
Yes and no – it is designed to be able to introduce distractions without the visual element of it (dog would keep the head in the box). But then what is the consequence if the dog lifts the head in the later stages? And also, it does’t discuss enough about the needs of dogs to move around during arousal regulation moments (particularly adolescent dogs). So yes, it can get her into a better conditioned response in the yard than watching for birds for sure! But no, in that without quick fading and next steps, you are locked into a box (literally LOL!) because her main conditioned response challenge is to movement.
>I really LOVE this idea, whatever the stations may be (max pup exercises ideally right?>
Yes, simple stuff with minimal decisions required due to the challenge of the birds – and insanely high value food. You can start with a series of targets where we basically condition the environment to mean: go to target, gt a handful of rotisserie chicken, go to next target, more chicken etc. Dog sports are really just a series of conditioned target behaviors so this is actually pretty useful 🙂
>SO maybe always start out with some attention exercies: loosh leash Ha Ha with check- ins? pattern games, up/down?>
Work these indoors for a bit until you see the conditioned response of whipping her head around to look at you, using very high value food. I think by taking these games outside right now, we are using operant conditioning and getting engagement in an environment where a classically conditioned response to birds) can override it at any moment. So strengthening the games with high value food in an easier spot will help before taking them back outside again.
Then when she is unable to take her eyes off of you indoors… go outside and do a simple pattern game for high value food. And that will be the entire session, not the warm up. We are seeking that conditioned response so we don’t want to go too long and make it operant.
And in a different session, do some targeting like we did with the MaxPup 1 prop, or the boxes/bowls/baskets (there is a pattern game called super bowls which is GREAT for this!) Remind me if we ever did Super bowls with her?
You can mix in the dopamine box too! That can be one of the stations.
>Or even mix it up “attention excercises” > “agility” back to attention, etc… >
I don’t want to add the agility in until you can walk outside with her and she immediately (and automatically) engages with you. Did we ever do the leash off, engagement ON game with her?
>give her a break in xpen & “work” Kelsie a little so Sunnie learns to take turns? >
Indoors, yes. Outdoors, no – she might be sitting in her xpen stewing in frustration and thinking about birds, so it might make things harder not easier.
Let me know what you think!
Tracy
Good morning!
He definitely loves the new toy! It is great that it is tiny and not a danger to his eyes! And even better that he also considers it a toy and not just a food carrier!
He was driving ahead brilliantly! You can add in your “go” verbal in now, and more running from you (sorry not sorry haha). You can also start to add more distance between the barrel and the jump! Fun!
Looking at the proofing game:
Part of what was happening was that the current balance of value is tilted towards wrapping the wing and seeing you – the tunnel is not more exciting than that yet. That balance of value will shift as he gets more tunnel value – you were making it SUPER FUN for him to do the tunnel and that will turn him into a tunnel lover for sure. To help him want to do more tunnels, you can straighten that one out (it will be a long straight tunnel!) so he can see the exit easily even though he can’t see you. And within a couple of quick sessions, he will love it as much as he loves wrapping the barrel and seeing you.>He was really excited to play but he petered out as you can see. >
It could have been that it was hotter, that it was evening and his body was starting to go into rest mode, that it was a hard mental game focusing on 2 very different behaviors, that it was focusing on a behavior with a lot of running that he doesn’t love yet (tunnels) or all of the above 🙂
>I tried this session with no food as well, so I didn’t want to bring the treats out for the line up since I thought I would lose him on the toy. I thought the toy might be better for this game than him stopping at the end of the tunnel to get a treat.>
To build up the value for the tunnel, food might be the winner 🙂 A giant cookie or the treat hugger is a definitely possibility in the early stages. And when he loves the tunnel, it will be easy to bring the toy back into it.
>. What are your thoughts on little dogs & scrunched up long tunnels? I always thought that the bumps from a scrunched up tunnel might interfere with a small dogs feet, so I always extend them all the way. >
I agree – always extended, no scrunching! We want to protect their feets!!
>I think the 20 foot tunnel may be long for Lew. I have a 15 foot but it is dark blue. I may need to try it out and see if Lew cares about the color/darkness.>
Definitely try the 15 footer because he will see dark tunnels in future trials – but start it straight so it is easy to see through and not like running into a dark cave 🙂
Great job here!!
TracyGood morning! The tunnel exits looked fun!
>Definitely more used to Ripley who lets me get away with more and I forget Vibe is still a baby and needs much more connection.>
Yes, baby dogs need soooooo much connection and adults are happy with far less because they know so much more about this crazy game 🙂
The session with the tunnel looked good!
He is turning a little better to his right than to his left, but that might be a product of timing of the verbal and the shoulder turn to the next line. On a lot of the left exits, you were facing straight when he entered so even if the verbal was on time, he exited a little wide (like 1:36 and 2:08 and 2:43 for example). On the right turn exits, you were turning your shoulders and decelerating along with the verbals so those were really nice exits!Gorgeous connection on the GO at the tunnel exit at 1:47 and 2:01 all the ay through the wrap wing, he drove it to really well. Compare to 1:51 where you were looking ahead on the tunnel exit so he was not sure where to go. You got closer to the wing at 2:07 which totally helped but he still slowed down to sort it out. Increasing connection as he exits the tunnel (especially when you are feeling the pressure of not being as far ahead 🙂 ) will help him zip right past you to the wing. You can see it at 2:25 where you were more connected so he had no questions about finding the wing.
>I am purposefully keeping the toy in my hand (and it’s a big one) just to start to help him learn to listen and do the thing even with the toy in the picture since we had a bit of an issue with staring at the toy at his baby class last week>
He certainly was not staring at the toy here at all, good boy! Do you have video of the session where he was staring at it or struggling to ignore it? I am curious to see if we can figure out why he is so drawn to it because usually he is quite excellent about ignoring toys while working.
>took a minute in here to ask you a question (in the video) about arousal modulation and would love your input. >
Thank you for the question! Losing the sit in that moment might be more about making too big of a deal about the control of the sit in that situation, adding pressure which turned into overarousal/frustration/conflict.
Add in that he is an adolescent and it is easy to tip into different arousal states when they are asked to stop moving (sit) in a situation where everything about it elicits a moving behavior. And if it becomes a recognizable pattern (hose sit hose sit hose sit), you might see the sit disappear as the arousal state shifts (not all patterns work in our favor LOL!) And continuing to try to get the sit is where adolescents in particular will sit less and less, in the moment and in future sessions.
So what to do to optimize and center the arousal? Don’t make a ‘thing’ out of the sit – less control, more fun & movement 🙂 The sit behavior is not what indicates arousal state – the responses to cues (latency, accuracy, etc) are what help indicate that. Switch up what you ask him for in terms of getting more hose time: a trick, a line up, a sit, leg weaves if he knows those, letting him offer what he wants to offer (I often ask a dog “are you ready?” which can elicit them offering something) and sometimes not asking for anything at all, just playing in the hose then going back to the tunnel game. Not asking for a behavior is key – it is great to sometimes just play in the hose and not have to work while playing in the hose.
That will keep it exciting fun, in a happily unpredictable way where he gets some agency in what happens, no pressure, and no anticipation of having to keep doing a sit. And it accomplishes your goal of helping maintain arousal states you like without accidentally tipping him into overarousal by focusing on a single behavior which might be counterproductive.
>just want to help him stay in or near that optimal state without unnecessary frustration and being fair to him.>
From what the neuroscientist geniuses tell us, a young adolescent can’t stay in that optimal state for very long at all (and the part of the brain that controls the sustained attentional state is not fully formed yet) – they slip slide all over that YD curve 🙂 So sometimes just letting him play in the hose is a lovely mental release and decompression from the expensive arousal state work. But if the hose play is also work, then there is no release or decompression and you can see overarousal instead of the desired centering of arousal.
Let me know what you think! Nice work here!
TracyGood morning! He got so big, looks like a grown up now! Yay!
>he has about 0% food drive after trying 100’s of different treats. Obsessed with toys though.>
This is actually pretty normal with Border Collies at this stage. We can gradually introduce the concept of food as a reward by first making food part of the ‘work’ (it looks like he love to ‘work’ in the form of training and getting a toy). So to build up food drive, you can ask him do do a fun work thing (around a wing, for example) then ask him to eat a good cookie that he likes in other situations (it is still ‘work’, it is not a reward) and when he eats the cookie: he gets more work and the toy.
It looks like this session in the video below, where you can see at the beginning of the session a young BC was obsessing on the toy and the work, and didn’t want to do anything for a food reward. She just kept moving, offering work, wanting the toy.
So we want to a different structure: around the wing, tossed a treat, convinced her to eat it as part of her work… then TOY party!
She did it on the flat first (cookie then treat) but then in the same session adding wing wrap – treat – toy. The immediately brought up the food drive to be able to use food in training. As you know, food is useful as a reward and also useful for arousal regulation!Here is the video:
I think the set point is going well! Yes, everything happens really fast with him but I think he might need a slightly longer distance – do you remember how long this was? I think 6 feet between jumps will be ideal for him when we add the moving target game to this, after his stay is super solid.
He did a great job with that stay as you put the toy down! It looks like he was really working hard to not move because he loves that toy. The next part of the stay element is to have you place it another 10 feet further away and also ave you face the direction he is going rather than facing him. I am betting you were facing him to help hold the stay for now, so if that is what he needs then that is what you should keep doing (the stay is IMPORTANT!) and we will gradually get you facing forward and not facing him.
(And hello to the cat who also had lovely striding LOL!)
Great job!
TracyGood morning!
The set point went well, and I think this will be the correct distance. Right now, with the stationary reward and the MM pretty close, he is focusing his hind end more on slowing down so he is not quite powering through the jumps yet. But as soon as the MM is further away (15 feet or more) and when you add the moving target (dragging toy), he will get more power through it and we will see more of his jumping organization. So you can definitely add the MM being a lot further away (his stay looked good!) And when you are feeling comfy moving more, you can add in the moving target game 🙂>the last rep which he did more stepping through the jumps.>
That was him sorting out how to decelerate into the MM.
The wind in your hair also looked good! He found the jump with no problem at all. Yes,yYou can move the wing a bit further from the jump each time you try it so he drives ahead of you more. And you can use a forward verbal (that you would use to indicate running a straight line) as he exit the wing to accelerate to the jump. And as soon as your ankle is happy again, you can add more of your motion too 🙂 and the toy!
Great job here!
Tracy
Ouch, that definitely sounds locked up but I am glad the chiro was able to put everything back where it belonged and it was not an injury. And I can see disc being the culprit: I don’t even do rollers with a few of my dogs because of the way they slam their bodies to get the disc.
That is good news about the class potential! Keep me posted!
Tracy
Good morning!
>He did get pretty worked up by StrykR barking on leash so it was hard for him to think. But he stayed with me and tried.>
This is a good outcome for a first try at it! You can work StrykR first on whatever the exercise is, then PoweR gets a turn, then if he sticks with you he can continue. But if not, no problem, StrykR gets a turn 🙂 Your instructor can keep track of the turn length so it doesn’t go too long, but it will be a good way to have more and more engagement from PoweR.
The Find My Face game went well – he seemed surprised when you first turned away! He got a little sniffy too – it was hard to know if it was because there were really good food smells, or if the game was mentally challenging (or both :)) But either way, he worked through it was was able to re-engage. You can add your movement of walking back and forth to this, so he has to really come find you 🙂
Great job!
TracyGood morning!
He is doing really well! The volume dial at the start line is more than tugging – you can be asking for a trick then tug then a trick then tug etc as you move to the line, as that helps optimize his arousal & focus.>maybe the week after that I can try the hidden toy, remote reward thing. Or I could just do it at home.>
At home, you can start the remote reinforcement with the small steps of food & cookies left behind on a reward station and he moves with you away from it. Separately from that, you can run sequences with a toy in your pocket (empty hands) and see how he does. I think he will be fine with it.
Keep me posted!
Tracy
Hi!
>Any tips for solidifying a start line stay?>
I do lots of reinforcement, in the form of releasing before the dog breaks then rewarding, as well as throwing back lots of cookies/toys to the dog when she is in the stay. Build up duration very gradually so she has a ton of success.
> if doing NFC or run thrus – short sequences and then a party, if I don’t have a totally dependable start line, should I start with a slign shot instead and then once in the ring after some high arousal successes do a start line not where the actual start line is so further away from distractions and party?>
Yes – for now, do NFC runs without a stay right near the crowd. That is too hard. You can ask for a stay deeper into the ring later in the run, but only after the stay is very successful in training classes and at home.
> I really want her start line to be bombproof but I don’t want to create stress around it, and I definitely don’t want to run a sequence if I have asked for it and she breaks. >
Right – we don’t want the conundrum of asking for a stay then having to figure out what to do if she breaks. So bring stays into the picture first in training or in class and reward lots! Then after she has had successful NFC runs without a stay, you can do NFC and ask for a stay near a jump somewhere away from the crowd and see how it goes!
Tracy
Hi!
>I have an opportunity to try an FEO run with Skizzle next week…at an ASCA trial that’s close by. >
Exciting!
>I plan to try pattern games and a bit of the volume dial outside the ring while the first trial is running. >
Bring high value foods, anything new and slightly mind-blowingly delicious 🙂 And start as far from the ring as needed to help teach him about the environment.
>Then, I will try pattern games before we’re on-deck, then move into the volume dial when we’re on-deck. >
This is a good plan, and he will give you feedback about how he feels in the moment so be prepared to switch gears 🙂
>Then, once we enter the ring, a running start and try 3-5 obstacles – play, play, play. >
Before you start a run, ask if he can play – using a long, favorite toy, start swinging it around for him to chase and grab. That will tell you what the next steps are. If he can play? Cool, you have a reinforcement! Then maybe run into a tunnel then play more. Then maybe tunnel-jump then play more. Make it all about play and not about obstacles. If it is high first exposure to a trial environment, he might not ‘recognize’ sequencing or obstacles (this is normal) so you can focus on just playing 🙂 and making the time in the ring into a fun party.
>I will opt-out if Skizzle can’t give me any attention outside the ring before our turn. This is a real possibility.>
Perfect! Skizzle will let you know. And since. The primary goal is having a good time, you can keep it as easy and fun as possible 🙂
>Am I on the right track?>
Yes! Seems like you are prioritizing his engagement and fun, which is great 🙂
Tracy
