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  • in reply to: Khamsin & Jimothy #62297
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Hi!
    Very cool to work from home and play with the dogs 🙂 The weather is looking good!

    On the rear crosses:

    >>turning left was not our friend. I know my mechanics aren’t perfect, but he’s pretty happy to turn right, so I think I need to do some more work on just left/right verbals?>>

    Yes, I see a definite right turn side preference (that is totally normal). The reps at :03, :07 and :36 were late getting on the RC line, so he was fine to turn right there.

    On the right turn RCs, the timing at :12 and :22 was good – you were changing sides behind him before he took off and that helped. You were too early at :17 and pushed him off the line (he had a bit of BIG MAD there, good job giving him the toy).

    Your timing on the left turn RCs at :27 and :31 was really good, much earlier than the previous left turn RC reps. But he still confidently turned right: maybe it was partially because he had been rewarded turning right, or partially because he is a righty, or both!

    So yes, you can do more verbal work but mainly I think he needs a little help sorting out the mechanics of turning away from you to his left (it is like writing your name with your non-dominant hand). A placed reward will make a massive difference because it will provide a focal point. You can tuck in a MM or toy on the landing side of the left turn reps and that will really help him (I think on the demo videos I have a toy placed on the right turn RC reps for my lefty dogs :))

    On the serps:

    >I also had Mochi out there because that’s something I didn’t do well with her (work with the distraction of another dog) and because I was being lazy. I thought he generally did pretty well with everything going on!?>>

    He did pretty well but it was too much pressure – note how much he looks at her and how she is shaking the toy and chasing his line. That draws bandwidth in his brain away from the processing needed for the other things going on and devoting mental space into not running into her and ignoring her movement. The errors in the session were related to her being right there or chasing his line. And with baby pups, there is not a lot of bandwidth to begin with LOL!!

    You can ease into the pressure of having other dogs around by having her in a down stay or on a station – but no toy shaking or chasing her brother around LOL!! That is especially important because if there is an error and you communicate that it was incorrect… he might not actually know what the error was because mental bandwidth being devoted to ignoring the other things in the environment. So with less pressure in the environment, you will see the little errors go away because he can process his mechanics and the cues better. The little errors are things like not seeing the tart wing at :12 when you didn’t step to it, or at :14 and :20 when he was looking at her and not at you.

    On the next session, you can also start to add a little more distance between the wing and jump – and if he can still find the jump easily, you can start to flatten out the angle of the jump a bit.

    Nice work here!!
    Tracy

    in reply to: Jen and Mason #62296
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Good morning! These are looking really good!

    >>I might have made it too easy because we finished the game in just one session and that’s not really our style.>

    I don’t think it was too easy! You and Mason nailed it in one session – that doesn’t always happen with our pups but it is fun when it does! He did have one question at :13, when the wing was further around on the tunnel side and you were looking ahead more. He got it on the next rep, with some really strong connection from you too!

    The timing of the FC from the jump to the tunnel can get sooner eventually but for now it is fine to let him go a little wide on the jump – that way you can be sure he is definitely committed to the jump

    The short tunnel worked well here, so for the next session you can start with the longer tunnel and the ends turned down because it is a bigger visual to go past so turning down the tunnel ends will make it a little less exciting 🙂

    On the rear cross video:
    He is getting the idea of RCs! Yay! The verbals can totally help and your connection was good!!

    >>He seems to be thinking a lot as he heads toward the jump. >>

    Yes – he was waiting for more info before committing to a takeoff decision. That means you can give the RC info sooner:

    I think you were waiting for him to pass you before getting more strongly on the RC line to the center of the bar. The RC reps were at (:05, :13, :36, and :43) and on those you can see that the RC pressure started when he was maybe halfway between the tunnel exit and jump – so he was reading the pressure, but if we can get it earlier there will be too positive outcomes:
    – he will turn before takeoff
    – you won’t be as far behind : )

    So we can work on getting you right on his tail for the RCs: you can get closer to the tunnel exit before he exits (feel free to send to the start wing from a position already near the tunnel exit or skip the start wing and just send into the tunnel). As he is exiting, you are running directly forward to the center of the bar from very close to him: that cues him to go past you and RC, and you will be ahead of him again after the RC 🙂

    Related to this:

    >>I noticed that Mason exits on the outer edge of the tunnel, which is probably expected. The unexpected thing is that he takes the jump on that same side of the bar even though I have the tunnel exit lined up with the center of the bar, if not even facing a little toward the other end of the bar. Am I pushing him over to that side? >>

    I see what you mean! Being on the outside of the tunnel is fine. When he is approaching the jump, it looks like he is moving away a tiny bit to get a better visual of the cue: viewing it with a little more distance gives him the fuller picture. Note that he is looking at you while doing this. So basically he is saying: I am not sure if it is a RC or not, so I will get a better view of the full picture of the cue 🙂 I think starting the cue earlier by getting on the RC line sooner will help him drive straighter on the line to the jump.

    >>The middle of the dog walk is beyond the jump. You can see part of the ramp in the video. He has never paid any attention to it before, but maybe it is adding a bit of pressure.>>

    This is entirely possible that a bit of mental bandwidth is being taken up by the dog walk ramp in front of him. I am sure part of his brain is saying “don’t run into that, it would probably hurt” 🙂 But I don’t think it was impacting him negatively or was too much pressure.

    >>Collar grabs seem to create a lot of whining, pulling away from me, and frustration, so I’m starting with a reset cookie>>

    Try to get it on video if possible so we can see what the antecedents are. I like to have the collar hold firmly in the toolbox for a variety of reasons (the top one being a safety thing in off leash sports: it is so useful to be able to stand there and hold the dog’s collar). To help reduce the arousal or frustration of the collar hold, you can line him up with a treat, put your hand on his collar (no pulling back or ready-set-go or anything), give him another treat, then let go. Ideally it just becomes a happy part of the line up (we don’t hold him very long at all at the beginning) because it is very neutral.

    Great job here!
    Tracy

    in reply to: Laura & Teagan #62295
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Good morning!
    Strong session here! He is really getting the idea of moving ahead and doing rear crosses! And the added play between reps made it even more fun for him.

    On the GO reps, you should move more the line, rather than stop and throw. This will accomplish two things: we want the acceleration to be built in as part of the cue, and also he will get used to you moving while he has to sort out his jumping mechanics.

    The rear crosses are going well – using the right verbal only is better than GO + right, because they mean different things 😁and we want him to respond to the first cue he hears. On these, you were using more motion forward on the line and that was great – you don’t need for him to pass you before you are moving up the line because your motion on the RC line will cue him to pass you and to do the turn to his right. You can see that in action at 3:08, for example, where you were moving up the line pretty early (in a good way!) and he drove ahead and turned right. Yay!!! So keep doing that and adding more and more motion on the line. He doesn’t need your dog-side arm to point ahead on these, the motion and connection were all he needed.

    Great job!
    Tracy

    in reply to: Elizabeth & Yuzu #62294
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Hi!

    He was able to find the jump each time with you being close and putting on pressure on the line, so that is a big win! There were 2 reps where he went past the jump, but that was a combo of him driving to the toy holder and your feet facing that way.

    On the GO reps, you can throw the reward sooner: as soon as he looks forward, rather than wait until he is at the jump. He will look back at you if it I not thrown by then 🙂

    >>He did great when he didn’t realize the toy was pre-placed, but we failed twice after that so I had Carole stand out there with it. >>

    The placed toy was definitely trickier, because he was locking onto the toy. It is likely that the toy placements (especially with someone holding it) have always been paired with going directly to the toy – so to make it easier for someone to hold it/throw it or have it placed, you can build in a lot of balance reps and use a marker. For example, on this rear cross game, you can have the toy in the same place (or held in the same spot) but on some reps you cue a GO or a FC wrap. Then you can throw a different toy or the holder can throw it. And, you can add in a marker which says the placed toy is now available (like a ‘get it’) to help eliminate the confusion about when to go to it or not.

    You can tweak the game a little so you are right at the end of the tunnel when he is exiting, to be moving forward to get onto the RC line. That will add more opportunities for him to work closer to you, plus it will show the RC line sooner. At :46 and 1:29 the physical cue was not showing RC and he was turning to the toy 🙂 The rep at 1:07 was actually really good even though he turned left (when you wanted a right turn RC) because all the physical cues said left and he was watching the cues. Yay!

    He did really well at 1:43 and 1:51 where you had some good pressure on the line! So we can keep adding the pressure (you don’t need to do RCs every day though 😁) and also mix in FC and GO lines too as you now start to jog up the lines to add more speed.

    On the 2nd video:
    He was having trouble reading the serp line a bit at first – he might have needed to see more upper body rotation or be a little more in front of the jump. Sometimes they just have an anti-serp day LOL but then he got it after a few reps. The tunnel reps were easy for him! He did well with the placed toy for the threadle but this is another place to add a marker to tell him when to get the toy.

    >>I honestly thought I was standing in “threadle position” for those,>>

    Yes, you can be a little further over by the entry wing so half of you is visible outside the wing, that will help when you add motion.

    >>The stays are still a work in progress. I am trying really hard to stay connected, but not sure I did that great of a job.>>

    You can try 2 things to make sure you are not pairing arm movement (he released on that a couple of times) or re-connection with the release:
    – you can walk to your position waving your arms and looking back and forth, like you are leading a marching band LOL! And while that is going on, say the verbal release. So basically, it is all movement all the time and not an individual movement paired with the release.
    – you can lead out holding a very full cup of water in the dog-side arm, and release without spilling the water. That will tell you how much arm movement is happening on the release, because you will feel the water on your hand 🙂

    Do this on just a one jump lead out so you can work those without any complex discriminations. Let me know how it goes (it will all be entertaining LOL!!)

Great job here!
    Tracy

    in reply to: Taq to be continued! #62279
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Hi!

    >> If I want her to go left I need to push my left boob forward😂>>

    Yes, turns out that agility is mainly where our boobs are pointing LOL!!!!

    The session went really well and I think the line was much clearer. So did she, based on her responses! yay! And she was definitely happy with the little sparkle balls!!!!

    Next session: run more! That will really make it feel more comfy. But with that in mind:

    >Taq says please give us something else to do!>>

    Yes, you can give the RCs a little break and let latent learning kick in for both of you and play some of the other games 🙂

    Great job!
    Tracy

    in reply to: Brittany and Kashia #62278
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Hi!

    >>Like for the exercise I did tonight, I don’t have a verbal so I didn’t really know what to use besides ‘here’ to get Kashia’s attention. >>

    I think using here worked well for the first session! It is a new concept for her, so using a familiar word was very effective. The new verbal can be added later. And it will be whatever you want your threadle verbal to be, because it is the same behavior for the dog (threadle slice) even though the context is different.

    On the video:

    Good reward throws and reset cookies when there was a blooper! I think the thing that will help the most is her line up position:
    Be sure she is on the angle facing you when she is sitting and not facing the bar of the 2nd jump if you wanted her to come to the backside (because if she is sitting looking at the bar, she might automatically got to the bar).

    That includes when she was between 1 and 2, and also when she was on the takeoff side of 1 – the goal is that she is setup to have a straight line to wherever you want her to go: straight line to your hand for the forced front cross or threadle, or straight line to the bar of 2 when you wanted her to take it on the balance reps). When she was set up on the angle facing your hand for the backside, she nailed it each time! The bloopers were when she was set up facing the bar of 2.

    An example of setting her up to be looking at the line to your hand and not to the bar of 2 is at 1:29, and you can see she has a pretty straight line to the backside. Yay! That helped take out any questions she had 🙂

    And when you did want her to take the front side of the jump on the balance reps, she was facing the bars and had no questions there either.

    Nice work here!
    Tracy

    in reply to: Julie & Lift (Sheltie) #62277
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Hi!

    I think it was a processing question more than anything else. The toy brings a higher arousal and trying to process wrapping the wing with the tunnel right there was toooooo much (processing the visual, the behavior being cued, the being outdoors, and being in higher arousal.

    She couldn’t do *all* the behaviors required in the moment (wrapping, ignoring the tunnel, handling the external environment, handling the internal environment especially if the cue to wrap was not perfectly clear, finding the jump, tugging.) Pretty normal adolescent brain challenges!

    The further she was from the tunnel when you asked for the wing wrap (like when you wrapped the other way), the easier it got for her – probably reduced the processing challenge. And she found the jump really well – that is an behavior she has a strong learning history with (as compared to wrapping the wing to set up layering with the tunnel there outdoors :))

    And I think food also reduces the processing challenge because it probably produces a slightly more centered arousal state.
    So what you can do is assess toy use depending on the context. You can start each session with tugging because we do want to help her learn to work in the higher states of arousal. Then you can decide what to do next:
    If it is a behavior that she is experienced with and you are indoors, it should probably be fine to keep using the toy.
    If it is a behavior she is experienced with and has also done outdoors successfully… probably a good toy behavior.

    If it is a new behavior, especially outdoors? The first session or two might go better with food rewards, to open up more bandwidth for processing everything else. You can use a lotus ball or treat hugger, so the food can be thrown and there is still a toy-like element to it (balancing arousal states too!)

    And when the new behaviors are not new and easier to process, I am sure she will be able to use the toy for the full sessions 🙂

    Let me know what you think!
    Tracy

    in reply to: Kathy & Bazinga (Boston Terrier 22 months!) #62276
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Hi!

    I think the zig zags are going well! As you flatten it out, I think the 4 foot bars will create too much distance for her to bounce effectively, so I think the weaves will be a good option! This is a hard game physically, so she really only needs to see it once a week.

    Lookin at the sequences:
    On the first video:
    She seems to have a great start line stay so we use it even more on the very first sequence! You can lead out more on sequence 1 so you can set the line from ahead of her. Ideally you can be 2 or 3 steps past jump 1 to release and set the line, rather than have her drive ahead. You were at the wing of 1 which doesn’t show 2 as well, so she was driving ahead on a different line. Moving the jump to make the line easier helped her for sure but you can also use your lead out to set the line to 2.

    The BCs looked great! The throwback at 3 also went really well: you exited it with a spin/blind cross, which set up a rear on the tunnel. You can also set up a front cross exit by keeping her on the same arm as the throw back arm (right arm, in this case) so you can send to the tunnel and get up the line.

    The only hard part for her was the lead out push. I think it was a positional question – you were stationary and at jump 3. A more ideal position for the lead out push is on the landing side of 2 and not near 3. You can be standing on her line on the landing side of 2 and start to move forward to 3 after you release her. That should commit her to 2 and show the line to 3.

    On the 2nd video:
    Adding the motion from the tunnel helped her see the line to jump 3 better and the blind on the landing side worked well! The blind on the takeoff side worked great too 🙂

    After the blind on either side, be sure to maintain strong connection so she sees the next jump. You will want to be looking at her and moving to jump 4 until you see her look at it and lock onto it.

    You had great connection at :13 so she found the line. At :20, you turned forward so it actually looked like a blind cross cue, so she went to the blind cross side.

    You were better with the connection after the blind at :27 and :33 (and :54 and 1:01 on the other side) but she needed one more step of connection towards the jump so she could lock onto it. You moved the jump at :40 but you also held the connection longer, so she got it. I don’t think the position of the jump made a huge difference for her (she missed it in the same position on the rep at :54) so it is all about the big connection for more steps after the blind to lock her onto the next line.

    Great job here!
    Tracy

    in reply to: Brandy & Katniss 🏹🔥 #62275
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Hi!
    She did well finding the jump here! I think some of her questions came from lack of motion: you were not moving a lot and had BIG connection so she was like: I am supposed to come to you, or look forward? So you can definitely add more speed (jogging for example) and be connected but it can be softer in that your eyes are on her and you can see her, but dogs side arm can be less back (point it to her nose rather than open it all the way back so your shoulders are rotated less towards her).

    >>Is it a concern that she’s looking at me on every rep instead of straight ahead?>>

    She will get better and better at looking ahead and not at you, but we can also help her. I think the first step is a placed toy or target, so she has a different visual to lock onto. After she does a bunch of reps to the target, you can fade it but moving it further away and going to a thrown reward. The timing of the thrown reward is as soon as she looks forward (which might happen at the tunnel exit). That way she is looking forward before arriving at the jump – if you wait too long to throw, she might look back at you because there is nothing else to look at 🙂

    >>I don’t think I showed her the picture with me ahead and lateral as much as I could have. It felt like a bigger distance in real life than what it looked like in the video,>>

    No worries! I think the priority right now is getting her looking ahead, before you add more challenge with lateral motion or looking ahead. I think she will sort that out really quickly.

    Great job!
    Tracy

    in reply to: Jen and Mason #62273
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Hi!

    I am loving the jaunty music LOL!

    He did well with the 3 variations here! The tunnel and threadle cues looked very distinct in terms of position and shoulders. You can rotate more on the serp so your feet are facing the tunnel but the enter of your chest is facing back to him. That way you can stay closer to the bar and still get him to come in. And plan the verbals before each rep, because I think the only errors were sometimes saying the threadle verbal when you cued the serp.

    >>Notice I’m trying really hard to remember to reward everything. I tend to go into analysis mode when I screw up. Then I focus inward and forget to reward the dog.>>

    Yes! The was great! We totally get in our heads to plan the next rep… but the dog perceives it as punishment (negative punishment, withdrawal of the possibility of reinforcement). So it is important that we reward and then figure it out LOL!

    You can also add in rewards for the stay while you are moving because he is moving before the release word on several of these – I think he is moving on the eye contact before the release. At :16 and the rep after it where you made eye contact and praised then released was perfect. On. The other reps, you were releasing when you did eye contact and so he was starting to release with eye contact. As you move into position, make eye contact the whole time, praise, then release.

    On the 2nd side -he did well here too! Super!! He actually was following the physical cue and took the tunnel on the first rep. If you watch it in slow motion, you were in serp position with your shoulders open (they can be even more open to him, so the center of your chest points directly to him, it was pointing to the tunnel here).

    Then you released him and as he started to move at :03, you closed your shoulders forward which is the tunnel cue. You kept your shoulders open for longer on the next rep and he did the serp 🙂 And the next reps were clear too, so he was very successful.

    Great job here!
    Tracy

    in reply to: Jen and Mason #62272
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Good morning!

    >>How will we know if our dog prefers a stand or a down at the start line? I’m asking Mason for a sit now and I’ve been resetting him if he gets up.>>

    It depends on how they position themselves. He is very forward in the sit and his butt was coming up – I am not even sure if the dogs realize their butts are coming up. If you find yourself resetting him a lot, then he should do the grids in a stand stay and the down might be the better option in the sequence work. The down is not helpful for grids, because he’d have to start further back in order to be able to get up and balance, which changes the hind end use.

    >>how does his form look? I don’t really know what to look for on this game other than that there are no extra strides between the jumps.>>

    We are looking for how he steps into the grid (pushing immediately from his rear and not tapping his front feet before jump 1 or changing his leads), where he puts his feet between the jumps, his head position, the arc over the bar, and where he lands between the jumps (center is nice!)

    He was stepping in well – the best start position was at :29 where he was closer to jump 1. He did stand up on that rep, it might have been before the release, so be sure to watch his butt as you lead out. Because of the MM being relatively close and your position was not fully out by the MM, it as harder to tell his jumping form on bars 2 and 3: he was lifting his head to begin to stop at the MM. That changes his spine position and hind end use.

    So, rather than a MM being stationary, let’s go to the moving target (like he saw on the set point) where you are slowly dragging it. That will help him maintain form because he won’t be thinking about having to stop, he will be able to keep moving through it.

    Nice work here!
    Tracy

    in reply to: Laura & Teagan #62271
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Good morning!

    He is reading the rear crosses well! You can show more acceleration on both the GO line and the RC cues – that will get him driving ahead even better, making the RCs even easier. You can also be further ahead at the tunnel exit (a step or two ahead) so he can see you setting the line before he exits the tunnel). That will get him looking forward sooner and at you less.

    >>He definitely did better on the GO when I threw the toy early, note to self.>>

    Yes, and on the RCs as you mentioned too. As soon as he looks ahead, you can throw the toy. You can also have your dog-side arm a little more relaxed and pointing forward less – when you point it directly forward, he looks at you because the pointing forward changes the physical cue to the post turn line and not to the RC line. So less dog-side arm pointing and more RC line of motion will get even more speed through there.

    >He decided to play the keep away game on his own>>

    For the keep away – I think part of the keep away stems from that he doesn’t get to play with the toy a lot when you throw it as a reward, so it is less of a reward. When you throw the toy, let him have him party with it for at least 10 seconds… then call him and offer the cookie trade. You are throwing it and calling him back immediately so he is not feeling the full effect of the reinforcement. Instead, he is keeping it away to avoid going directly back to work (you asked him if he wanted to work or not at one point LOL but he wants to play, so you can make the whole session into more play with longer reward moments rather than going right back to the next rep.

    You can tug with him when he brings it back, but tug as a game rather than tug back to the start for more work. Or you can throw it and let him run around with it for 10 seconds while you praise him – then offer the trade and keep playing with the cookie after that. Remember that is should be play for him, and not work.

    Great job here!
    Tracy

    in reply to: Diana and Crescent Moon #62270
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Good morning!

    >>Did you just call Prism an “adult”??? I was thinking he was still an adolescent….;-)
    ďżź
    He might be late adolescent LOL but definitely has a lot more experience and brain development than his baby brother 🙂

    
>And again when I realized I was using his release word on the threadle reps. His training minutes were up, so I didn’t do any reps with the threadle verbal cue. >>

    Good for you for not doing more just to add the verbal!

    >>He doesn’t know it yet anyway, so that would be a whole new training session. He is not as “wordy” as Prism (yet/for now/too young to say).>>

    I think the “yet/for now” is probably correct. He is still learning and processing them, and I bet he will end up having great verbals!

    
>>And again when not remaining parallel with the bar on the SERP reps. I feel pressure from the tunnel. Can I separate the wing farther from the tunnel?>

    Yes, you can add a little more room but also yes – there is a definite “I am going to run into the tunnel” feel to this game LOL!!!
    
>> I appreciate the support telling me it’s all fine—-Baby dog issues.>>

    I wouldn’t even call it “issues” – he is doing great work with normal baby dog questions.

    >>Congratulations on the newest pointy dog. SPOINTY (speedy and pointy) or SHPOINTY (sharp and pointy). You’re going to kill it in Flyball. Is that the idea?>>

    Thanks! Right now he is sharp and pointy with his little teeth LOL! Definitely hoping to play flyball but also going to do agility! As far as I know, there are no dogs from these lines doing agility so the breeders on both sides are excited to see him do agility. Fun times ahead!!


    Tracy

    in reply to: Elizabeth & Yuzu #62269
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Good morning!

    >>Casey pointed out in our last class that she thinks he really likes me to keep my distance, lol, and it seems that may be the case. >>

    It might be the case for now… but I highly suggest you don’t train to that preference because you are going to want to be able to be tight to his line and have him still commit to it. This is not just for rear crosses (see below) but for everything we are seeing in current course design for AKC, UKI, USDAA. Yes, we want some distances skills but a lot of what we do requires us to be right on the line or moving in tight with handler obstructions (darned obstacles in our way LOL!) and we want him to be able to read lines when we are close.

    >>In one particular case on Sunday we were doing a tunnel to a big,slightly arcing sweep of jumps to another tunnel and jump (basically a speed circle.) On the first attempt he went way wide of the obstacles. Casey had me pull way back from his line and he nailed it. I was REALLY far away (well, more so than I am used to being!)>>

    Yeah, I would want to work that so you can be anywhere on that line and distance is not required. If you are that far away, you will be limited in what handling you can choose (blinds will be really hard!) and you’ll be behind a lot. It is possible he is drifting wide because he needed more connection in a very direct way – a lot of BCs will drift wide trying to get a better look at our handling cues. Or it is possible that he doesn’t have the mechanics at speed to process all of the things coming in: your speed, your verbals, his footwork, his jumping, etc etc. Bear in mind that he is in full adolescent brain (just turned a year, yes?) so the processing part of the brain is not fully developed yet and the parts of his brain that do a lot of that work actually talk *less* to each other in adolescence than they do in puppyhood and definitely in adulthood LOL!!

    So what to do? Break down the skills and run shorter sequences with lower bars so you can developing the handling the way we want it. Trust me, you will not want to retrain this in a year LOL!!! And because he is learning and processing so much at this stage, two suggestions:

    – take off the verbal directionals and just use a general ‘jump’ cue. The left/right etc can go back on when he is on the line more

    – dial back your motion. My progression is walk-jog-run. I start by walking through the sequence and rewarding for finding the line with me needing to adjust my position. If he can do that? I will jog. If he can do that? I will run. That takes multiple sessions with baby dogs, so take your time. And if he drifts wide, don’t change your position along the line (unless your position is incorrect but on a speed circle it is probably just fine 😁) and did back your speed instead.

    And reward more frequently on the line and use shorter sequences – eyes on the big prize of the future where you can do anything you want in handling and not be restricted to having to handle a certain way. That means a less-is-more approach now of shorter sequences and helping him process.

    Looking at the rear cross video, being so far away from the line is what is causing the questions.

    The Go lines all looked great and he was finding the jump without you being that far away. Super!!!

    >>A few times he went wide of the jump, and I am wondering if it’s the pressure of me being too close or something else.

    Actually, he read you really well there 🙂 That was at :09 and :24 – you were pretty far as he exited the tunnel then turned on a lot of pressure pushing in to him. That pressure looked like backside push pressure so he was correct. You can reward when that happens because when they go to the backside, it is because we pushed them off the RC line) and if possible, stop and look down at you feet: you will see your feet facing the backside entry on the wing he went to.

    He was getting the RC turns but it was deceptive about what he was reading: if you watch it in slow motion, he was approaching the bars turning towards you based on the handling cues (lateral distance on the line, which should cue turning to you) and then over the bar he was watching your motion and watching the reward throw… so he was flipping the new direction either over the bar when he landed. You can see it at :17 and 30 and :44 when he was turning right on the RC, and at
    1:01 and 1:09 and 1:18 and 1:34 when he was turning left.

    So two things there to support the plan of teaching him to let you get close: when you are on the post turn side of the wing, we don’t want him to think that a RC turn away is a possibility because then he will start offering them when you are wanting a post turn or a FC/spin on the wing. Also, the RC from that distance puts you really far behind on course, and my goal for every RC is to get ahead again LOL!!

    So using the walk-jog-run progression, you can be a lot closer to his line on the tunnel exit and walk forward as he exits, moving directly to the center of the bar (that is the RC cue). Keep your feet moving to the center of the bar until he basically is getting ready to take off, then you can finish cutting in behind him. A placed toy is fine to help him on those. And you can move up to jogging if he can do it at a walk, keeping your line to the center of the bar. And, BIG connection on all of these will help support the line forward.

    Let me know if that makes sense! And let he know how he does with you on the RC line – having you get nice and close is going to open up a new world of handling opportunities 🙂 Nice work!

    Tracy

    in reply to: Mariela and Obi (Berner) #62268
    Tracy Sklenar
    Keymaster

    Good morning!

    >>I spend a lot of time with machine learning models and AI and I highly doubt it! But Gemini is going to get a boost soon in terms of how much data it can process, so we could give it a try with a couple of videos with feedback from you as input and ask it to comment on a new video 🙂>>

    I bet Gemini is my retirement plan LOL!!!!! The Agility U of the future has Gemini built in…. hmmmmmm…. LOL

    >>I actually do like using Perplexity a lot as great way to get context on new information/ask questions, it searches the web and also gives you references/links to where the info came from. Works really well for science stuff.>>

    That is good to know! I am often searching specifically for the links, so that will be helpful.

    >>p.s. I had a complete revelation as someone new to using recording for troubleshooting – I played the video at .5x speed and I could see my cues/Obi’s decisions etc SO MUCH BETTER. What a *duh* moment ….>>

    Yes! Not a duh moment at all – it is really cool how our editing apps and YouTube can let us slow things down to see things better. I often watching things in slow motion. And to train your eye: try watching things in 1.25 or 1.5 times normal speed and see if you can still see what happened. I do that all the time, or go up to 2x normal speed. It makes seeing things in ‘real life’ a lot easier!

    Have fun 🙂
    Tracy

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