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Good morning!
The shpile looked really good – high arousal, a couple of treats for proprioception exercises, back to high arousal so he continues working in that state. He seemed to be really thinking about where to put his feet, which is what we want rather than him flinging himself all over the place 🙂 The pile was challenging and the cato plank was not moving enough to concern him. Yay! You can revisit this here and there, and make the shpile different and random each time to add more challenge.
The one-and-done on the wobble board was great! You can add tip in the tiniest increments. And if there is a wobble board in class, do just one rep only, just like this, with basically no tip – this is important if he got concerned with it at class.
For the ‘out’ – he did really well with you stationary! Also, he seemed to have no questions when you were adding movement on the ‘out’ cue. Super! Mixing in the non-out reps was hard – you don’t need to say his name before the out (‘Dublin out’) because we don’t want him to tune out his name when you need it for the straight line. The non-out reps worked best when you were a little ahead, so you can start moving away while he is still eating the treat rather than waiting for him. I think he will still do well with the out cues even when you are ahead.
Great job here!
Tracy
Good morning!
The rocking horses looked strong here! The distance and being outdoors were not a problem at all. Super! 2 things to bring you to the next steps:
– Your set up is in kind of a triangle, with the 2 barrels in line and your position is offset from them. You can make it into more of a line: barrel – you – barrel. That will help add challenges in the advanced level (which he is ready for :))
– You can add your wrap verbals here too. You were saying ‘out’ but that might mean something different when we turn this into jumps.
You can also add more toy play – that will help get the two of you on the same page with the smiley face game at the start too. The tug is really great for connecting and ideally we use toys more than food in the handling stuff. On the smiley face game – he is understanding the commitment! When he had a question on your left side, it was because your left leg was not stepping forward. So be sure to step to the barrel with the dog side leg and it will be very smooth.
Looking at the get out videos:
He DOES love that board LOL!!! So cute! And his tricks were very cute too 🙂
He went to the board really well with the out cue – when you mark and reward, you can use a ‘get it’ then throw the reward, as this will solidify moving away to the line wihtout looking at you (the ‘yes’ marker gets the pups looking at you).To start the rep, you can use a stay cue so you can get a little ahead. A cookie toss start will work nicely too if you have a bit mroe room for him to get it without automatically ending up on a straight line to the prop.
On the 2nd video where you added motion, switching sides totally gave you more room to be able to send him out. You might see that he was looking up a you a bit – that was because you were looking at the prop. If you shift the connection to look at him when you give the out cue, he won’t look up at you (strange but true LOL!!). The reason for this is that looking at him turns your shoulders to the line you want, so he doesn’t need to look at you to double check – he sees the info immediately.
Since this is going really well, add in the balance reps of releasing him to move along with line with you and NOT cueing the get out 🙂 You can call his name and move forward, but not other cues needed. It is a hard challenge to NOT go to the prop but excellent practice to ignore things that are not on his line, unless you cue them.
The strike a pose serpentine concept transfer went really well too! Your position and mechanics were super clear and he didn’t have a question about where to go. On the first video, we can clarify the release – for this game, you will definitely want a verbal release and I think ‘break’ suits it best. You used touch a few times but we are going to fade out the actual touching soon, so break will be better to give him permission to move into the game 🙂
Great job adding the toy in the advance level – we do want lots of toy play in these games. It made the stay harder so you can throw the toy back to him as a stay reward too! You can reward quickly for lining up, then reward again for holding position when you put the toy down – those were the main questions in this session. You can mix in treats as the reward to throw back to him: when you put the toy down, you can throw a treat to him for rewarding the stay.
Then use your ‘break’ to give a clear release – the ‘go’ verbal will be something we use for big extension lines so the ‘break’ will fit the serp turns better.
You mentioned in the video that he is going into a down when you say sit – so you can cue the down as the start opsition, that is perfectly fine! And that way you don’t end up diluting the sit cue because he thinks sit means down 🙂
Only one suggestion for the serp position – point your feet to the reward 🙂 You will find that will make things easier when we add motion soon.
>I filled out the intake form for Copper to start working on running contacts via 30 minute lessons. I am fine sending videos asynchronously, with you responding at your convenience. Not sure if that is easier than a 30 minute live session, so let me know either way.>
Perfect! You will hear from the office some time today. I look forward to getting started!
Great job here!!
TracyHi!
> I am assuming just do one or the other? Would I do it every couple days or daily?>
One or the other is good, and every couple of days will work well.
>For the cones. Would 28 inches be ok?>
Yes, those should work well.
> Has anyone used those collapsible ones?>
Do you mean the tall ones that you can get in car emergency kits? If so – yes, they are great 🙂
>How do you use the fresh pet as reward? I had thought about freezing some in my larger dot pans.>
I get the rolls and get them really cold in the fridge: then I cut them up into treat-sized pieces and freeze those. I take them out just before I need them so they are slightly defrosted but not too warm or mushy. One of my dogs thinks it is the best thing ever LOL!! Gross!
T
Hi!
> It was the first time with the pool noodle down. when first put down he ran away with it so funny.>
Ha! So cute!!! I bet he had a grand time with the new toy LOL
He did well here holding his stay and coming to the hand! You can add in a bowl or Manners Minder as the reward target so that he doesn’t rely on your movement to go back out after coming in to the hand.
These reps were almost all threadle slices (he came around the wing to you then back out over the bump), so be sure to also add in serpentines where your hand is over the center of the bar and he comes towards you over the bar then back out to the reward.The rocking horses went really well outside! He was fast and his commitment is looking strong! Only one suggestion: Be sure to make the BIG connection after the front cross between barrels, His only questions were when you didn’t look at him and he was not sure where to be (that is when he would go to the other side or jump up on you). So after the FC, keep your arm back to him and eyes on him as he exits the barrel, let him lock onto the new side then you can send to the next barrel.
Great job here!
Tracy
Hi! You two were definitely getting in the groove in the 2nd video here!
Looking at what was successful when she was on your right to start in the 2nd video versus on your left in the first video: mainly, it was the distance away from the prop you started from.
In the first video, the prop was maybe one body length away. With it that close, she was already arriving at it and turning back towards you, before you even had a chance to start moving.
In the 2nd video, the prop was more like 2 or 3 body lengths away, so you were able to send her to it then start moving to the new side before she got to it and looked for you. That allowed you to be visible on the new side, so she figured it out really well.
When you revisit the dog-on-left side, have the prop 4 or 5 body lengths away so she has multiple steps to take to get there. That way you can move sooner and then you can more easily be visible on the new side.
You can warm up the increased distance with just some sends followed by cookie throws to get her moving ahead of you.
> I think it may have been helpful to say Get It to send her to the prop in the entire session?!>
The get it marker might be confusing because she might look for a thrown treat rather than realize you want her to hit the prop.
>, in later reps I started looking at her , she looked at me & then I cued the prop. Is this the correct way to do this?>
I think looking at the pups brings better connection which brings better commitment, so it was perfectly fine to look at her. And her looking at you was also perfectly fine to start the rep, because she was still moving really well to the prop when you cued her to go to it.
Nice work here!
Tracy
Hi!
> went to bend down, remembered what happened last time… hesitated… and barry won the toy haha. >
Yes, better to let him win than to break yourself!
>(LOLZ to that bloke in the background, i didn’t seem him on the day, but barry obvs did and he did a couple of barks and was generally a bit worried about him>
Yes, it was a weird thing happening that really stood out in an otherwise quiet environment, so his adolescent brain was had a hard time tackling it. He worked through it nicely! I think all of the toy play and high energy fun really helped with that.
He did a great job finding the tunnel and some hard entries, and also did a great job bringing the toy back pretty quickly! There was a good balance of letting him cavort with it, and getting him to bring it back in a reasonable time span. That is going to result in having a great retrieve that he LOVES to do 🙂 So much fun!
Great job!
Tracy
Hi! His engagement here looks really good 🙂 so you got a lot of good behavior on the jump!
He was having a little trouble watching you and not taking the jump on some reps – he got most of the reps on your right side but the left side was harder for sure. I think it had to do with watching the rewards, so try not to have your hand in your cookie pouch or holding the cookies up high as you walk by the jump, especially when he is on your left side. That draws his focus to you and away from the jump, particularly if you’ve done obedience or heeling on the left side. The cookie can be in the opposite hand and you can swing your arms as you walk. That will really help focus him forward on the jump on both sides equally.
Great job!
Tracy
Hi!
That sounds like a really challenging environment! He definitely had a hard time at first but I like that you were able to end on some fun retrieves! To get engagement, you can work through 3 things:– Start with a reinforcement assessment – what is motivating? What type of food will he eat and stay engaged for? Same with the toys – what toy and how does it have to move (probably fast and away from him so he can chase it 🙂 )
– When you’ve got the rewards worked out and he has had a little break: Then do some pattern games and play. If you’ve got engagement, then you can go to the next step:
– an easy fun game that he really likes 🙂 The jump and rewards didn’t have enough value at the beginning, but the running contact mat did when you were further away.
The sniffy stuff in that part was probably him trying to regulate arousal/stress. And once he starts working: be finished very quickly 🙂 Training with distractions is incredibly ‘expensive’ so he probably doesn’t have a lot of reps in him before he gets lost in distractions again.Ending on the retrieves as trades were great and that can actually be a good starting point (on leash or long line) the next time he is in a really hard environment.
Nice work!
Tracy
Hi!
Rusty totally caught on to the concept of shifting away! Super!!>From the video, I am guessing that my body is turned too much as I point and throw>
A little bit, but that was only because you were starting next to him so the outside arm cue and throw was causing your feet to rotate. Being next to him was what made him think it was almost a rear cross (he was turning back towards you instead of continuing up the line)
You can change the setup when you are stationary – you should be ahead of him and parallel to the prop rather than next to him. It is kind of a triangle where he is in one spot, you are about 10 feet ahead of him, and the prop is parallel to you about 5 or 6 feet away from you. You can use a stay to get him into that spot (then release then cue the get out or go straight). Or you can toss a cookie back to his start spot to get him to go to it if you don’t want to use a stay.
Using this same ‘triangle’ set up, you can also add your motion: he is in his start spot and you are walking up the line ahead of him. When you release him, you are parallel tp the prop. Sometimes you can use the get out and send him to it (keep moving which will keep your feet pretty straight) or sometimes you can *not* use the get out and reward him for staying on the line to you 🙂
Nice work here!
Tracy
Good morning!
I think he really liked the bigger distance on the rocking horses and chasing you with the toy! Fun fun fun!!!
It is also a good connection challenge for you – you can use exit line arm for him to answer the question he had at :35 when he did not know which side of you to be on. Showing the connection was easier when you were closer to the wing and running, and that rep had you pretty far ahead which is definitely when it is harder to show connection.
Side note: showing the exit line arm to Vibe will also be a good warm up for running Rip at the Invitational even without having to run Rip 🙂
If that type of blooper happens or any blooper, keep going to the next wing then reward so he doesn’t think anything went wrong. Even reset rewards where we stop can indicate that something was wrong because they are so different than the ‘woohoo!’ rewards when things were correct.
>1 step send (at least that was my goal when I started – hopefully I actually did what I planned)>
These looked great! Commitment was spot on so you can start to rotate sooner: aim for just before he arrives at the wing. Then if he can still commit, you can aim for 6 feet before the wing… then halfway to the wing 🙂 As you rotate, keep saying your wrap verbal and looking back at him as those can help support commitment as the motion is going the other direction. Eventually we will add the challenge of you deliberately breaking connection as if doing a blind and seeing if he can maintain connection.
SAP went well!
>trying to control my freaking mouth (letting the Manners Minder do the marking – when it felt like working).>
Ha! Yes, it is hard to be quiet til the MM speaks first but also with dogs, the praise is powerful for them so I am not mad that you praised him a lot in this scenario 🙂 The presence of the MM is part of the marker, even when it is not working 😂 and we don’t want the pups to just obsess on the MM. If it was a different reward we might need the marker to be more prominent before the praise – the MM is such a huge visual draw that it is ok to remind the pups that we are still present haha
He had some questions at the beginning of the session that had to do with your lower body position (feet and hips really forward and squared up to the MM, and a little hidden behind the wing. That made the serp arm hard to show and serp line harder to see (they should be more visible over the center of the bar) so it might have looked like a cue to go around the wing. You can see it more when you were facing the camera in the 2nd part of the session.
I don’t think your position is like that when you run through a serp, but standing still probably felt AWK.WARD. LOL so you can be in a more natural serp position by walking into the position then stopping kind of mid-step and calling him into the serp.
That will get you a little more center on the bar, your feet more ‘split’ and not together, and your hips will face the wing more. All of that opens up the serp visual so he will get it more immediately.
And you can start with the cookie tosses closer to allow him to see the jump more easily for the first few reps. He caught on really quickly and then was zipping in-then-out really well!
He did well with the ‘out’ game! The connection, arm cue, and lower body line all looked really good!
Your motion up the line was really helpful for him – on those reps, it was just a matter of timing/position relative to the exit wing. If you were near the wing and did the out, he found the backside line (it is one of the ways we can cue a really independent backside!) That is what happened at :13, totally rewardable like you did at 2:13.
When you were further ahead and stayed in motion – the front side of the jump was easy to find. Yay! It will be easier as he learns more about front sided versus backside and the associated verbals.
At 1:27 when you stopped moving – your shoulders pointed back to the wing so that is where he went. He is definitely paying attention! Good boy!
For the next session, 2 ideas to add:
– The MM might be making him think that ‘out’ is a send to the MM so… take out the MM and use a thrown reward. Thrown treats are probably easiest for this.
– add in the balance of going straight and NOT cueing the get out. This will be much easier if the MM is not there (I am pretty sure he was going to do to the MM no matter what by the end of the session here :)) so the balance will help him understand to ignore things that are not on his line until you cue them.
Great job here!!! Maybe he will get a little time on the practice jump at the Invitational? Or at least walking around 🙂 I am guessing you are heading closer to the site today? Have a blast, fingers crossed for fantastic courses!
Tracy
Hi!
Backing up onto the purple pads is going well! I think he is truly understanding the concept and backing up really well! And adjusting himself nicely to be straight on the pads with all 4 feet on them. You can add more distance away from you, so he is backing up more and more.
As he grows, you might want to rotate the pad set up 90 degrees so it is wider and easier to get both feet on (it is good for now but he is growing so he will soon be wider than the setup 😂)
Looking at the shpile video:
>love that word btw.>
I am trying to keep it family-friendly 😂 😆
Your pile was magnificent! Love it! Towards the end you were adding in more tugging, so be sure to tug after every 2 or 3 treats – the goal is to keep the arousal super crazy high so he sorts out how to use his feet and balance. It is not really a shaping game as much as it is an arousal game 🙂 so you can do tons of rewards for all the other stuff rather than focusing too much on the cato plank/wobble board stuff.
>>Dublin seems to be having issues with things like my tip board and wobble board all of a sudden. >
It is pretty normal that pups go through periods of sensitivity to sound, motion, etc. A couple of ideas for you on that:
– take the cato plank’s movement out of the shpile game for now. You can shove a bunch of towels under it so it doesn’t really move. The inflatables provide movement challenges and the non-moving cato plank will let you build value for just being on or near it.
– keep arousal high with toys and running around a lot for any of these games: shpile and also introducing movement and sound. The more his arousal state is optimized, the less he will even notice the sound or movement : )
– Separately from the shpile game you can isolate moving things by doing one-hit wonder sessions. What I mean by that is you set up the cato plank or wobble board with a zillion towels under them to minimize movement and minimize sound. Then do exactly ONE rep with a super high value reward. It can be a fistful of treats, or his entire meal in a bowl, or throwing his favorite toy. One rep, then done!
The reasoning behind this is that we can create a super positive response to movement/sound by doing fewer reps for amazing rewards (a cool study was just published that supports this – thanks science! – even though the results of our training have been showing this for year 🙂 ). And one rep keeps arousal high and prevents any overthinking (for both dog and handler). It leaves him wanting more without accidentally sensitizing him in a negative way. The hardest part is for us humans to do one and only one rep. Resist temptation to do ‘just one more’.
>It seemed to happen after we used them in my one in person class. Thinking it is the noise more than motion.>
In the in-person class, a couple of ideas:
– do a one-hit wonder session too of just one rep for a MASSIVE reward, then done! It can be the very last thing he does for example, then he can eat the rest of his treats or run around with his toy. Don’t let the instructor (or yourself) talk you into more than one rep
– Have the wobble board braced (bring a zillion towels with you so it is easy and fast to brace it) so the movement and sound are *very* minimal. Make it soooo easy at first that it seems almost too easy.
– If other pups are also going to slam it around and make noise, set it up so he is not hanging around listening to it. You can ask for him to go first with his one-hit wonder, then after his reward you can take him out of the building so he doesn’t hear the noise up close. Or, he can go last and stay outside the building until it is his turn.
– If you are accidentally in the vicinity of a loud noise (life happens!) you can toss a handful of treats on the ground or throw a fun toy around (or drag it for him to chase). Try to always pair loud noises with amazing things.This will help him not worry at all about sounds as he gets into adolescence and then the teeter will be easy to train 🙂
Great job here!
Tracy
Good morning!
>Heck I need chocolate just to start my taxes >
It is late March, I need chocolate to even think about my taxes at this point LOL
> I got bad news last night and the funding for the work is pushing my start to the beginning of May.>
Ugh that must be so frustrating. Sorry to hear it. At least time will fly by with puppy games!!
>For taking it outside I will really have to weigh those down. Would switching to cones be option or are we wanting to keep with bigger items due to his age and size?>
Switching to cones is totally an option! You will want two of the relatively big traffic cones so they are taller than him. And you can do a quick intro with the cones inside to make sure he recognizes them as things to wrap – the outside they go! I start inside because that way we are only changing one factor (wrapping cones instead of barrels) versus two factors (wrapping cones AND ignoring the great outdoors).
>I have switched his food off of kibble since we had so much trouble with his stomach. I can try some other treats too if you want me to go back and forth with the stay and toss. >
Having throwable treats really helps. My dogs also don’t eat kibble so to use visible treats, I also use Fresh Pet as long as it is very cold so it doesn’t get mushy (that stuff is GROSS but they love it and it sits well in their GI). And chicken breast is also a favorite and easy to see.
You can also use a toy to throw back to reward stays, or a lotus ball to carry the treat and keep it visible. Those will be powerful reinforcements – it takes a little longer to reset for the next rep, but it is worth it because of the value.> He doesn’t seem to be a dog that gets overly excited with a start. His release isn’t terribly explosive lol. >
That is IDEAL for right now. He has a TON of drive for ‘working’ and playing with you… so we want him to really love to stay and not be twitchy or explosive. I prefer that these lovely drivey puppies are a little more chill and thoughtful at this age (it is arousal regulation!).
Then as we build things up and get closer to competition or after the first few competition runs, the speed appears naturally AND we keep their good arousal regulation/ability to ‘think’ while running fast. It is sometimes hard for us to do this (because we worry that the pups will grow up to not be explosive or fast) but the speed is there!
>Should I move on to next steps or toy on ground for him?>
Yes, you totally can move to next steps.
>I think he likes to tug. Later after this I played fetch with new harder toy. He didn’t want to pick it up>
Awwww good boy! Loves to play with his momma, even with an ouchy mouth.
T
Good morning!
REALLY nice backing up here!!! Bandit is using his hind end and balance skills really well, particularly for such a young dog. Yay!
As you saw, he was able to find the teeter plank the best when he started close to it (too far away and he would turn around to get on it) so good job keeping him close enough to be highly accurate. I was also super happy to see that he was happy with the movement and noise. You can very gradually add more distance away from the plank but be sure to maintain the accuracy like you did here. (Side note: this is all a great teeter foundation game 🙂 )He made me laugh when he came bursting into the video on the rocking horse video – so cute! I love his energy.
This session went really well too – his commitment looks great, he seems to really enjoy the added speed of getting to wrap 2 barrels, and your connection was lovely 🙂You can move to the next steps here too:
– add more distance between the barrels, which will also give you room to stand smack dab in the middle of them. Based on how he did here, I bet he can do at least double the distance between the barrels– if he does well with the added distance, then you can move to the advanced level which has more motion and earlier front crosses 🙂
– you can add you wrap verbal too!
– take it outside 🙂 You might need to weight down the barrels so they don’t blow away 😂 and you might need to choose an early morning or evening time to avoid heat – but working outside will help build up the games to add more speed and fun 🙂
>With respect to Copper’s contacts, do you have a contact course that I can use to share videos? Or do you do any sort of virtual training for this type of situation?>
I do have an independent study course for teeters – has a large dog 2o2o track in it and a small dog 4on track as well. It is here: https://agility-u.com/course/au-029-maxpup-obstacle-series-teeters/
I do private lessons online for running contacts (and some folks are working through the teeter and weave independent studies and do privates mixed in to get feedback on progress. Usually what works best is a back-and-forth of videos but we can also do live privates. The privates work better than classes because they can be done at whatever pace works for the dog & handler and are completely individualized for the dog. This is the private lesson info – obstacle skills like running contacts work great in the 30 minute packages, no need to do a full hour lesson 🙂
https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLScDxgW08hhu0HXCSIVVkiQsNxW1VY0kzXUMYZ1cuscDePr1kQ/viewform?usp=headerGreat job here!
Tracy
Hi!
On these, I think the questions from the dogs were because your feet were what was turning them, and not your hands. You were pulling them in with the outside hand, but then using your feet to turn them away. Ideally, you would pull them in with the outside hand and also turn them away with the outside hand (or both hands). Here’s what I mean:
>On the first jump with wing, she didn’t turn until landing, making the landing look super awkward.>
One those reps, you were using your hand to pull them in at the same time as your feet were moving to the jump, so it looked like a slice cue when she was taking off. Then she saw your feet cross the rear cross line so she adjusted to the new direction.
On Kashia’s runs, the reps at :27 & :45 had good ‘pull in’ and you can use your hands to then also flip her away. Keeping your hands lower and more pointed to her nose will really help – the outside arm was high and I think as you were turning she couldn’t really see it (like at :42) so she was waiting for your feet there (and she was slowing down to be sure).
You can see it at 1:04,1:27, and 1:43 with Kastella – the outside hand pulls her in but then stays out on the other side of you – that hand can pull in and turn away, before your feet turn to the jump.
>then on one rep Kastella still took the wrong side of the jump.>
That was at 1:58, where she correctly followed you feet which stepped her to that side of the jump.
You’ll find these turn aways to be more fluid with lower hands to get her focused on the hands, then while keeping your hands low – turn her away with your hands then follow with your feet.
Nice work here! Let me know what you think!
Tracy
Good morning!
They are reading the brake arms really well! I think you can cue more acceleration overall and then sprinkle in the brake arms here and there, depending on how much turn you need.
>Also, I’m proud of myself because I actually noticed my issue with speed before I read your comments. As I was practicing yesterday, I noticed that the more I move my feet, even if in place, the more Kashia (and Kastella, actually) pick up momentum and speed.>
Yes! They both read your motion really well – that is part of why they turn really well when you decelerate. But that also means they are less likely to accelerate if you are decelerated. when you were walking, Kastella was cantering but when you were moving faster, she was galloping 🙂 You were running more with Kashia and so she was running more too.
> You will see I wasn’t doing that at first with Kastella. I was trying to do the drills by just standing around in the middle.>
Ha! Kastella didn’t let you off the hook 🙂 And neither does Kashia – she totally cues off of your motion and the size of your steps. On the last sequence, for example, at 2:11 til about 2:20 you were moving but taking small steps. So Kashia read that as decel and she too took very small steps. When you started taking bigger steps – she read that as acceleration and also took bigger strides, moving faster.
> In my mind, there isn’t much movement needed since it’s a smaller space and a circle. I need to remind myself that the dog reads my body language and will emulate that lack of speed!>
In smaller spaces, you can go closer to the tunnel so they see more acceleration when they exit – if you get too far ahead, there is no place to go and you might end up slowing down. And that can help when you want to use more distance. And you can get closer to the jump wings too to show more acceleration on the sequences where you don’t need as much distance.
>I noticed Kastella was constantly watching and head-checking me.>
Yes – I totally see what you are talking about. Here’s why I think it was happening, along with why the verbals were a little late:
> I also don’t know why my dog side arm is kind of helicopter-ing around. I need to keep that lower so I’m not disconnecting from the dog. So why I was failing to give them the information as soon as I should, is beyond me! Was that why she was head checking? Was I not being clear on what I was asking?.>
This! Your dog-side hand was pointing ahead which was blocking their view of connection, so you can Kastella in particular looking at you to double check the info. You were moving less with her, so she was checking in more. You were moving more with Kashia, so she could cue off the motion and not check in as much.
And because your arm was up high and forward, it was blocking your view of the dogs. That is what was making the verbals a little late: you were not seeing them until they were in your periphery so that is when you gave the cues. But they needed them a little sooner – so having your arm back towards them and lower will open up the connection better for you both.
At 1:27 you’ll see Kashia take the jump rather than the tunnel. Where did I go wrong to send her over that when I actually wanted the tunnel?
I thought I was only one week behind so I was surprised to see you posted week 5 today! Eeek!! I will get 1 lesson of week 4 done today. I go out of town until Saturday but will get the second lesson of week 4 done on the weekend. Again, thanks for having a couple extra weeks into April built into the program so I can get week 5 done without rushing.
Not enough connection (too much arm pointing to the line next to her and not enough motion so she waslike at :28 when you were fully turned and decelerated and pointing
. So why I was failing to give them the information as soon as I should, is beyond me! Was that why she was head checking? Was I not being clear on what I was asking? I also don’t know why my dog side arm is kind of helicopter-ing around. I need to keep that lower so I’m not disconnecting from the dog. I clearly haven’t videoed myself in a while, prior to this class, so I have a few quirks to work out!
>At 1:27 you’ll see Kashia take the jump rather than the tunnel. Where did I go wrong to send her over that when I actually wanted the tunnel?>
She was being a good girl, good job continuing even after the bonus jump 🙂
Watch that section in slow motion: as she was landing from the jump before it (1:25) you were doing a post turn. So when she landed and needed to make a decision about where to go next (1:26) you were completely facing the line to the jump she ended up taking. Then you took a step or two parallel to her line, which really solidified it as the jump. By the time you were fully turned and facing the tunnel (1:27) she was getting ready to take off for the jump so she likely thought it was the jump then the tunnel.
Compare to when she landed from the same jump at 1:33 – you had decelerated more and as she took a step past landing, you were fully turned to face the tunnel (1:34) so she locked onto it at 1:35. Super!
Nice work here! Let me know what you think!
Tracy
