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Hi! She is doing really well on all of these!
Backsides slices:
>. In the one session there was lots of activity behind her and she worked hard to stay focused>>
Yes, she was fabulous!!! The first part of the video had a little too much of you moving to the barrel and releasing at the same time as moving. But then at :31, :37, and especially :41 – you nailed the mechanics of moving then releasing and releasing with the backside verbal. And the rest of the session looked great!!!
One small detail: you can connect a tiny bit less so your dog-side shoulder is NOT as far back (yes, I know, I said connect less haha). You want to find the balance of strong connection without tooooo much upper body rotation.
>In the last practice, Debbie reminded me to throw in some parallel lines going straight.
Yes! Releasing with the back verbal versus the regular release helps the dog differentiate. At 1:35 she had an error but that was a valid expectation on her part because she had done a bunch of the backsides and had heard the regular release on some of them. So you can reset with a reward and make it more obvious like you did on th next rep.
Head turns: She is doing well and getting the idea here!
>> Would it help to have something for her to go around that didn’t have such big legs to step over>>
Don’t worry about how wide or tight the turns are – it is the head turn we are looking for 🙂 The legs of the upright were fine 🙂 Using slower mechanics helped – try to have your turn had lower , so it is at her nose level. When your hand was too high, she was doing the 2nd wrap but without as much of a crisp head turn. So the hand on these should be super low, like a lap turn, to get the very crisp head turn.
Threadle slices –
>>She wasn’t sure of where the reward was coming on some of them.>>
She did really well coming in to the threadle side of the jump, and I agree that she didn’t quite know where the rewards were coming from.
When working with other people around and using food – Can you ask Suzie to drop it for you, so you don’t need to move your shoulders as you toss the treats? We want your shoulders to stay frozen, not moving at all, because we don’t want to accidentally build in shoulder movement as a cue to go out to take the jump.
If you are training on your own, use a placed reward, like a cookie in the bowl. At the end of the video (1:13) you can see that the shoulder movement to throw the reward was causing questions about which side of you to be on, because it was ‘closing’ your shoulders and looked like a blind cross cue to her. On those last few reps, there was no bar so she didn’t know where to be – definitely use a bar on threadle practice because it is a useful visual for the pups 🙂
Also, since she seems to think the treats are a “meh” motivator for this game, try this with a toy placed on the ground instead of the bowl (which is also a great self-control game too :))
Another thing to be careful of is timing of the release:
get your threadle hand in position, look at it… then release. You were releasing at the same time as you moved your hand into position, which builds the hand movement into the release and also when she was very close to the jump (:45), it caused an error: she heard the release before she saw the hand, so she was correct to take the front of the jumpPerch work – She is getting the idea for sure! There is no rush to get her to step over something – you will want her to be immediately taking several steps as soon as she gets on the perch before you add anything to step over. She is taking a couple of steps here in the 2nd part of the video, but give each level several sessions before going to the next step.
Something that will help her is if you keep your cookie hands right in front of her nose, with you standing up (so your hands will be at the top of your thighs). And keep your hands in that position for the rewards too, so she is not turning her head to the side at all. This gives her a focal point and keeps her head up and body straight, which allow for more hind end independence (she is a little too tall for you to be bent over or on your knees for this, because it lowers her head too much).
Great job on these! Let me know what you think!
TracyGood morning! He is doing well on all of these!
Perch work videos: a couple of suggestions for mechanics, so he can get even more back foot movement.
When using your motion to get the back feet moving: have your cookies in your hand, and leave your hands in front of you just above his nose level as a focal point. That way, as you start to move slowly around the perch, his head stays straight because he can look at your hands and you will remain facing him. When your hands were high or to the sides, he was turning his head which made it harder to independently move his back feet. And then it is easier to reward him, because the cookies are right there and his head will remain straight. When you need to reload cookies, you can release him from the perch with a tossed cookie 🙂
He did well with lifting his feet over 1 bar (2nd video) but I think having all 3 things for him to go over was too hard (note how much he was stepping on them or hitting them). So another session or two on the mechanics of your hand position will get more independent foot movement, so you can add 1 bar, then 2 bars, etc.
Strike a pose threadles: He is definitely doing well here too, in both directions!
My only suggestion would be to try to get your threadle arm/hand in position and then use the release word, so he is not releasing on any hand motion and so he sees the hand before he starts to move.That way he will get used to the hand being out and also he will read the cue earlier. For example, at :59 – based on where he was lined up (super close to the jump) and what he could see, and the release coming just before the hand movement… he was correct to take the front of the bar because by the time he saw the hand, he was already at the front. So having the hand fully out there before the release will totally help eliminate that question.
Head turns – he is wrapping really nicely! He seems to understand to make the turn. so now we can isolate the head turns even more. 2 things to remember about the mechanics:
– always start him at your side to send him to the first wrap, and move your hands slowly to cue the 2nd wrap (you were moving a bit too quickly at the end of the 2nd video, so he was not sure if he should wrap or not)
– click the instant he turns his head, which will end up being when he arrives at the pole or barrel (you were tending to click when he was finished with the wrap)Those 2 details will smooth out his questions – when he wasn’t lined up at your side, he was not always sure when to start or which way to go around the barrel.
360 circle wraps with countermotion – no problem at all with the toy! And he also did well with the good in the 2nd video!
On this skill, try to use a marker like get it and not ‘yay’ or yes. The yes marker is drawing him to your hands (like at :14) and doesn’t tell him to look at the ground for the reward. The more you can use the get it so he doesn’t look at your hands, the easier it will be to add more independence.Have you decided what your backside circle wrap verbal will be? It is time to add it! Yay! On the 3rd video, you were using “go” but we can replace the go with the backside wrap verbal.
For now, keep moving slowly on these. When you started adding more speed, he had some trouble so dial back your speed for now to work the countermotion. Ideally, you will be passing the barrel as he is beginning his turn and that is HARD!! He didn’t struggle when you stayed on what would be he landing side if it was a jump, but we want you to be able to be on the takeoff side so stay in motion but move slowly. And keep throwing the reward back behind you with the ‘get it’ marker here too, so he doesn’t look at you as you add more countermotion – I think the “yay” markers were part of his question because it means “reward from hand to him”, so if you said it too soon as you were trying to pass the barrel, he would come to your hands. The ‘get it’ and tossing it to the landing side (if a bar was there :)) will help him understand to complete the wrap even if you are past the barrel.
Backside slice foundation – this is also going well!!! One detail – be sure to be moving up the line before he starts to move, so you can set the line with motion (rather than release and move at the same time). It doesn’t make a huge difference on the easy angles as we start this skill, but when you working the harder levels and are further across the bar, it becomes very important to set the line with motion so he doesn’t think it is a front side. So while he is in the sit, start moving and while you are moving, you can release with his back verbal like you did in the 2nd video.
In the 2nd video you changed placement so he is not doing a 360 wrap on the barrel, that was good! The back slice is not the same as the 360, so the 2nd video was much better placement when you dropped reward on the landing side of the bar. Super!
Nice front side balance at the end of the first video!!
And to keep building up the independence, I suggest using your ‘get it’ marker here too, so when he is correct he knows to not look at your hands for rewards.
Great job on these! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi!
>>Very interesting that Casper is like your Contraband and Export. I don’t think I’ve had a puppy this independent before. So as they say, each dog teaches us something new. Which is another fun part of having a new dog. I do appreciate your telling me that things will come, I would probably be getting frustrated otherwise, and I don’t want to get frustrated. I see his potential, I just need the tools and the attitude to harness that attitude.>>
Yes, my most independent boys turned out to be my most successful sports partners… so no complaints here! LOL! And patience is key – these behaviors take a while to build up, and these pups are VERY young. So we will enjoy the puppy silliness and enjoy the ride 🙂
>> I went in the morning to play some flyball, I want both Dreamer and Casper to do flyball. I’m pretty sure Dreamer is gonna be a natural.
FUN! I really enjoy it and I find it to be a lot less complex than agility 🙂
>> And I hear Jana is taking the online course from your flyball captain so I’m looking forward to learning from her.
Yes! Shelly is responsible for my dogs’ fabulous box turns!
>> so Casper was a bit overwhelmed again. He did great with little recalls in the morning, but I think by the afternoon he was tired, even though he did a lot of waiting in his crate in the car.>>
It was probably a really busy environment, and those recall games are crazy high energy… and he was in the car but probably not actually resting. So it makes sense that he got tired and overwhelmed. He will grow into it!
>> The last thing we did at the barn was a little tunnel, kept it super easy, and I think he did great. We did more too but just baby things>>
He was very happy to see the Manners Minder! And it sounds like there were other things going on, and Father Of Bob was right there… and Casper was totally focused on his game with you. THIS IS HUGE! The most important part of it all is hat we get engagement from the pups and loo at how great he was! And yes, he did a great job with the tunnel, but look at your baby dog working off leash with distractions nearby! I am happiest about that 🙂 Yay!
The barrel game at home went well – nice training choice to teach the new barrel with the familiar two-toy game. His play looked great! You can be closer to the barrel to start this when you tap the toy, so he remembers to go around it 🙂 He was also being good about not touching the barrel as he ran past or smacking it on purpose LOL!
Looking at the strike a pose game:
>> He really really REALLY wanted to wrap that upright! I started too hard, so I probably need to give the touch target a lot more value than it currently has>>
I think part of the issue he had (maybe the whole issue LOL!) was the almost all of you was visible between the uprights and I don’t think he could really see your hand outside of the wing – the cookie toss was very close so he turned around, saw you mostly between the uprights, and assumed threadle (good boy!). So you can move to the far side of wing so your whole arm and maybe even a leg are visible outside of the wing, and see if that helps. And, be sure you are looking at the target hand (and not at him) – I couldn’t see where you were looking here.
Running around with the pool noodle at the end? CUTEST MOMENT EVER!!!He did well on the 2nd video! The MM was a little distracting at first but then he remembered about the hand target. Smart training to bring just one upright out to add it – he did really well when you tossed the treat on a severe angle to get him to move away but then I can totally see him offering the wraps on the other reps.
I love love love that he wants to wrap his wings! This is going to build to amazing commitment. To get the threadles going, I think you just need more room – that way you can toss the treat further (like 10feet away) so when he starts coming back to you, he has more time to look at your position, see you looking at your target hand, and you can even shake the target hand. That can totally help! So you can put this one on the backburner til you get to the House Of Sponge and more room for cookie throws 🙂
Great job on these! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi!
This is pretty normal excitement behavior in puppies 🙂 I suggest redirecting her with toys or other things to carry in her mouth. When you know it will happen, you can be prepared with a toy of some sort to let her carry or tug on/chew. A chew bone works well for this too! And if it happens and you were not quite prepared… grab a toy and give her something that we like (toy play!) to replace the behavior that we don’t like (boot biting :))I also mix in sniffing games to help her reduce excitement, such as scattering treats in grass so she can use her sniffer to find them 🙂 If you can don’t have access to grass, you can do treat hide-and-seek games to give her something to do to work through her excitement: lay a trail of treats for her to follow that end up in a jackpot of a chew bone 🙂
Have fun!
TracyGood morning!
Good job with the resilience game at the trial – did she seem pretty relaxed and engaged?
The toy races looked so fun! You were appropriately silly when you won LOL!!! She did really well and was VERY focused on getting the toy even with you starting that far ahead 🙂
On the turn away videos, she is reading the turning away really well. And you were NOT boring 🙂 Sometimes we need to not run and hoot and party LOL!
Lap turns – you were a shade early on the first reps on your right side, by moving the arm and leg when she was still a few feet from your hand. You will get a tighter turn if you move later, letting her get to a couple of inches away from your hand before starting to step back and draw her back. You were doing this with your left hand (moving later) and her turns were tighter – with the rep at :28 being perfect in terms of timing . Nice!
Tandem turns – she might have totally thought it was a stay game when you stopped moving LOL! So funny!
You can add in moving more while calling her (which should help her understand you don’t want the stay) and showing her the other hand (for the turn) sooner. You were showing it to her after she passed you and that was causing her to go a little wide (she was responding the instant she saw it. I delay you would show her that outside arm/turn hand while she is still a couple of feet behind you
>>I decided! I’m totally stealing your choochoochoo (I love it!) for right wraps and I went with RevRevRev for left wraps.
Ooh, I like RevRevRev!!! I might steal that one too LOL!
>> I’m pretty much stealing all your verbals because they make me smile.
Ha!! That is how I chose the verbals – they either made me laugh or they were impossible to yell LOL!
>>If I go with DigDigDig & CheckCheckCheck for loose/90 degree turns, is it better to keep both the “C” words for turning right? (Dig for left & Check for right)? Or will that be confusing and I should pick a completely different consonant for the 90 degree turns? >>
Excellent question!!!!! I think they will tart to sound the same : the CH will be what pops out first and since we want her to process the cue on the very first instant, I can see where she would either make a mistake or learn to sit for more info (which we don’t want). O if CHOO is already a verbal cue, I wouldn’t use Check for anything because it might be too similar.
The rocking horses are looking good~ I don’t know why she struggled with the right turns at t he beginning – my guess is that she could see her hear something weird (I could hear some banging at :34-ish) so she was distracted and needed to check it out. But after that, she did great both directions!! You were doing a great job of getting the verbals AND the markers! It is indeed a skill which is why we rehearse it a lot in this context without a lot of running 🙂 This game is partially for the dogs… and partially for us to get our words going LOL!!
You can do the next steps of this game: a couple of reps in a row, and also the advanced level with more motion. Yay! She looks ready for it 🙂
Great job on these!!!
TracyHi! Great question!!!
We already have soooo any verbals that we don’t want a 3rd release word if we can help it LOL!!
So, break can be used to release from the stay and in the context of agility: drive to the handler on the line of obstacles that the handler’s motion is showing. So, you can lead out and if the line of obstacles between you and the dog is clear, you can use ‘break’. But if the line is not clear, you might have more success using the obstacle name instead.
Or, if the dog stops on the teeter (for example) – if your line of motion is clearly showing the line of obstacles, you can use break. But if not – consider using the obstacle or directional as a release. So if I am ahead of the dog and moving, I can use break and the dog should read the line. But if I am behind and I want to release and I don’t want the dog to wait for me or curl into me – I might release with GO TUNNEL if that is the next obstacle/line (to keep the dog looking forward).
And of course, you can release with directionals and obstacle names rather than a break release 🙂 It is up to you! And as long as you are consistent and clear, the pup will be happy 🙂
Let me know if that makes sense 🙂
TracyHi!
All of this is going really well. Looking at the double wraps:
When you did the low-and-slow hand cue (like a lap turn, where your magic cookie hand stays on his nose til he almost reached your hand, then do a slow hand movement to turn him) – those were all great. That included the 2rd rep, 3rd rep, 6th rep, and all of the left turn reps. Yay! Super! You were really in the groove on those left turns 🙂When you had your hand too far away, or moving too fast/easy… he didn’t get it. So keep going with the low-and-slow approach but now you can move from a wingless upright to a barrel 🙂
I a happy with the rear cross progress!
Good job with the stay/rear crosses – he is anticipating that you will cross behind him (note how early he turns his head LOL!) so mix in some NOT rear crossing and just walking forward and releasing him.The left turn rear crosses to the prop are looking good!
>>the right still not so much.>>
On the right turn rear crosses, you were too close to the prop so you didn’t even have a heartbeat to show the rear cross lol Note the difference between 1:41 for example and 2:10 – he was less than a stride form the prop ar 2:10 and there was no way you would be able to be on time 🙂 So on all rear crosses to the prop, start 12 to 15 feet away from it 🙂
And also it is fine if he only can do it one direction on the prop – we can solidify the other direction when we move it to a jump. My Contraband was not able to get right turn rear crosses til I put it on a baby jump with a lure 🙂 But no rush for that yet, we will get there soon enough.
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyThanks! This went well! I think the hardest part was that he was on fire 🔥 for the cookies and training, so things were happening fast LOL!!!
Your turn hand mechanics were good, his head turns all looked good,and your clicks were good! My only suggestion is to throw the reward from the clicker hand, not the turn hand. The turn hand tosses were pulling him to the wrong side of the upright. Tossing from the clicker hand will allow you to get the treats to the correct side more quickly.
You can have one cookie in each hand, then reload the clicker hand between reps, so it doesn’t feel strange to have the clicker and cookie in the same hand.
You can also do this one sitting, to save your back from bending over too much 🙂
Great job!
TracyGood morning!
She did well with both games here!
The parallel path looked terrific – my only suggestion is to use a “get it” marker when you toss the reward. I don’t think you were using one unless you were really quiet. You can add more speed now, and also use the toy throw as the reward!The get out also looked really good, she learned it really fast!! The mechanics are awkward feeling, mainly because they are a bit awkward when you aren’t running (they definitely feel weird when we stand still!!) But you looked good and she read them really well.
You can add the get out verbal now. And when you don’t want her to go to the prop, you can call her (that will help her differentiate as well)
>>We struggled with the coming in & turning away for the rear cross & did not do better with the new rear cross game since she is just spinning towards me. so we made up our own based food toss game only with balls.>>
Yay! I love that you made up a game!!! The key to teaching rear crosses is to figure out a way to get visible on the new side of the pup as early as possible so it sounds like the game with the balls helped. Yay!
Great job here!!
TracyGood morning!
Super nice session here! He is doing a great job of using his back feet thoughtfully – YAY!!! It took him a moment to organize stepping over the bump at the very beginning, but then he nailed it every other time. Very cool to see, especially with such a young dog!
For the next session, do a turn to each side with one bump and if that is pretty smooth… add the 2nd bump 🙂Great job!
TracyHi! Welcome back, hope you had a great trip! You’re not behind – the new stuff builds up from what he was already doing.
He definitely figured out the pivot to center concept for the perch work! He wanted to skip the part where he put his front feet on the perch after each treat 😀 so you made a great adjustment to feed him on the perch at the end.
For the next session, we can do everything the same except add in a cookie reward in position when he returns to center on the perch, then another cookie tossed to the side to start the next rep. That can help remind him to get his front feet on the perch after his back feet pivot 🙂
The 2nd video here is also perch work, can you repost the head turn video?
TracyHi!
This looks great too! She’s going back and forth between food and toys so nicely!My only suggestion here is to decelerate sooner: after you do the blind, start to slow down immediately so she can also decelerate before getting to you. That will allow her to turn even better!
The driving ahead to the toy looks strong here too 🙂
I think she is ready for the next game here too, where we add the barrel wraps to this 🙂
Great job!
TracyGood morning!!
She’s doing super well with her prop games here!The parallel path games at the beginning look great. You can do the concept transfer to put the parallel path on the puppy jump.
She was also really strong with the sideways and backwards sending! She was hitting the prop strongly and even the not-as-perfect hits were really good. Your mechanics of sending were good, and you also did a great job of keeping her with you until you sent her (she would be happy to start without you lol!!). You can give her treats for staying with you before the send.
She is looking pretty balanced, turning both ways really well. There was only one rep where she turned the “wrong” way (to her right when she should have turned left) but that was caused by your position being a little too centered on the prop, so the pressure turned her away.You can add the countermotion to this too, moving away before she reaches the prop. And I bet you can do the concept transfer to the barrel as well.
The rear crosses were harder for her, because she’s going fast (that is a good thing!) and that makes it harder to be on time. You had a couple that were on time on the right turns (like at 2:05) where you were visible on her new side before she arrived at the prop. On the left turns, you were late getting to the new side so she saw you on her right as she was arriving at the prop, so she turned right.
With her speed, she might be making turn decisions early (this is a good thing!) So try the rear crosses with the alternate game using treats, where she won’t be moving quite a fast and you can get to the new side sooner.
Great job here!
TracyGood morning! Looks like the snow went away (at least for now!)
There was no sound on these videos for some reason – not sure if YouTube is misbehaving – so I am just going to assume all verbals were perfect 🙂
First video:
Serps looked great! She generally nailed them, based on your position and her value for the jump bump. Nice!! And she was turning really well from the different angles – super nice impulse control on the toy, especially on the serp and threadle reps where she was starting really close to it 🙂Threadles were harder for sure, but she did well too. Good job keeping your shoulders pretty frozen and hot closing them to the bump as she came in for the threadle! Two suggestions to help keep developing the threadles:
The threadle toy placement can be on the more obvious line over the bar and not quite as much on the angle past the wing. She didn’t always see the one to the toy, so having it more obvious (a little more centered on the bar) will help that and help create the default looking for the bar.
When getting into threadle position, move around the wing and then give her a moment to look at the threadle cue before you release her. You were sometimes too quick coming across the bump and releasing as soon as you arrived, causing errors. For example: At 1:53 you stepped across the bump which drew her eyes to it, then released almost immediately at 1:54 – so she was still looking at the one you moved across the bump and she didn’t get the threadle. To set up more success, get into position not by stepping over the bump, but instead go around the wing, get into your position with your hand visible, look at your hand, shake it perhaps… then release her. That should help her differentiate between the serps and threadles.
She is doing well on the wraps too!!! This first session did not have a lot of motion, which was great to help set up success and get understanding. For the next session, start closer (probably less than a meter away) to the upright so that you can be on the “takeoff” side of the wrap (if there was a jump bar) to show her the countermotion (you were on the “landing” side on these). I think you can also use a barrel so she has something bigger to go around now, which will also help you get to the takeoff side.
Her left wraps are looking strong so you can add a little more motion 🙂 The right wraps are not as strong yet so stay slower on those for now especially as you add more countermotion.
Backside slices – she had legit questions on this one 🙂 A few ideas for you to help develop the really independent backsides:
Rather than use a full visual of a jump (2 real wings and the bump), go back to one barrel and the bump – that makes bit looks less like a potential front side, so you are more likely to get her going around the barrel to the backside.
And, one tweak to the mechanics to help set the line:
After you put her in her position on the line to the backside, you should start moving forward on your parallel path line for 2 or 3 steps and when you are moving and ahead… *then* release her. If you release when you are next to her and you both start moving at the same time… she doesn’t see the cue (the motion on the line) so she may or may not understand to go to the other side. You were compensating by moving to the wing, but we don’t want to rely on running to the wing to get the backside – so set a line on the ground in position 1 for you to move up to help prevent that – then start moving on the line, release, connect – and she should zip directly to the backside because she sees the motion cue.
The left turns are a little stronger than the right turns here too, so you will be able to move faster in this progress =ion when she is turning to her left. So you can be moving the line on the ground to position 2 and position 3, as long as you are moving before you release her for 2 or 3 steps and staying parallel to her line.
Great job here! Let the know what you think!
Tracy
