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Excellent question!
At 11 months old, it is likely that her growth plates are closed or almost all closed. You can X-ray to verify, but there is no real need to do that if you are going to proceed really slowly.
Also at 11 months old – she is still developing the mature muscling (soft tissues) and physique and brain of an adult dog (there was just a REALLY cool webinar on adolescent dog brains from behavior vets!). So at 11 months old, you’ve got plenty of time to raise the bars.
I would proceed by keeping the 10 inch bars til she is about a year. Then go to 12 (12 months old is still very puppy like in terms of physical and mental maturity for larger breeds). Then at around 14 months, assuming all goes well, you can go to 14 inches and then 16 inches. Assuming all is good, at about 16 months, show her some 18 inches and when she is closer to 18 months, she can see *some* 20 inch jumping.18 months is still really physically immature (and mentally immature) so there is no need to do a lot of full height jumping.
At about the 18 month time frame, try to get her in to see a sports vet for an evaluation and assessment. I do this for all of my dogs for 2 reasons: one is to get any idea of where they might need extra attention in terms of conditioning (structural things I need to watch for) and the other reason is to get ‘clearance’ to proceed to full height jumping. They will assess muscling, conditioning, etc and let me know if the dog is ready (or if I need to wait, or if I need to do certain things in the meantime to strengthen certain areas).
Each new jump height is introduced first in the set point, then as the last jump of the accordion grid when it is 15-18 feet away, then on easy lines in sequences, then in isolation (one jump games) on harder turns and backsides. Then it slowly all comes together 🙂
So yes, she is likely going to arrive at full height jumping later than dogs her age. But by letting her mature and learn to jump with her adult body, you will get better jumping form, better coordination, better understanding of how to extend and collect – and it is ultimately safer for her body so she will have a nice long career 🙂
And in the meantime… turn off social media hahahaha because you will see all sorts of 1 year old dogs running at full height and 15 month old dogs competing. Every single sports and orthopedic veterinarian that I have talked to is totally against that. And from a training perspective, I do see a large amount those dogs struggling physically (injury-shortened careers) and definitely mental (frustration, stress, over-arousal because their adolescent brains were not given time to develop.). I generally start my dogs in the ring when they are 2, depending on their state of readiness.
Hope that helps! Let me know what you think!
TracyGreat! Keep bringing those behaviors into training, in all environments, as the gateway to everything else (no wing send til she is standing still with your hand touching her collar, for example). Start as far from stimulation as needed so she can be successful. I have spent quality time in the parking lot outside of the training building with some of my very stimulated dogs LOL!!!
The other avenues to pursue are some of the games where she learns to moderate herself, rather than you cuing it (collar holds and chin rests cue it). Have you seen the various pattern games or take a breath game?T
Hi!
That is a cool rule change for AKC! Definitely worth rehearsing the mechanics of it! And yes, in USDAA and UKI you still need to put the leash down at the start line… but also easy to rehearse! You can do it every single time you run in class by having someone pick up the leash. I have found that food bribery works for humans LOL!I rehearse the leash off element of trialing with all of my young dogs for multiple sessions before they started trialing, and then as part of FEO when they did start trialing. I know I could have spent that time on jumps/tunnels/weaves etc, but it was a far better use of time to help them understand ring procedures.
Tracy
Good morning!
>> >This is the problem with her stays! She is not staying engaged enough. She may not be engaged enough before we start!
Yes! It feels counterintuitive, right? There are many dogs like Promise (and my Matrix, who taught me this important lesson) who do better when they are “higher” – also known as more engaged 🙂 Most of the dog sport community thinks that these dogs need to be calmed, but that reduces engagement and makes things very hard for them. So by stimulating these dogs MORE, we get crisper, faster, more accurate behavior. It makes complete sense when thinking about the Yerkes-Dodson bell curve – arousal (too much or too little) is actually considered LOW according to the science, and that optimal state is considered HIGH! So, we ignore what other people say and we stimulate the dogs that need it, to get more engagement and more success.
>>I did a little test with a few sit stays this morning. She was 100 percent if I waited the extra second to wait for her head to look at me. If I left before I got that engagement she got up. She responded really well to some fast hand targets before we started! But I still had to have that ok mom, I’m ready before I could leave successfully.>>
Perfect! That offered engagement is a great barometer of where she is in terms of optimal state. And if a few seconds go by and she can’t look at you? Time for more tricks, stimulate her more (or a pattern game if she is really struggling with the environment).
>>I have two feos this weekend! Any suggestions???
Your last FEO left off with a nice stay and a sweet simple course. We can plan to start there with FEO run 1 – make the say a little shorter than last time, but get your engagement first. And pick a fast, fun mini course for her. I think it was in the “just like home” where she saw the toy, right?
If FEO 1 goes well, you can do FEO 2 as step 2 “empty hands” where you have the toy in a pocket and repeat what you did earlier… but with no visible toy until somewhere on the course (or to reward the stay, I do a LOT of that in step 2).
And of course, that can be a starting plan – if she struggles in any way with the environment or behaviors, make the plan easier or bail out of it altogether 🙂 Protecting her happy attitude in the trial area is the top priority 🙂
Please send weekend updates!!! I feel like I am waiting on competition results for my little niece hahahaha
Tracy
Hi –
>>Believe it or not that was me working on clean transitions. LMAO. So when it looks like I’m flinging her, it’s literally me holding on while she’s trying to pull away.So this goes to the top of the priority list, then! Split it all down and reinforce both with food and with the action. If she wants the action and it is reinforcing, then it is critical that we use it as a reinforcement.
Have you started training something like her putting her collar in your hand, or her putting her chin in your hand? Both important things to shape! And have you shaped her to just stand still? All easier said than done!
For the clean line ups, make all line ups and releases into work very clean by slowing down the process and the mechanics. Start by establishing it away from agility or training or anything, so she is less stimulated. For example, do it after she has eaten dinner and in your living room: Cookie to get her to your side, gentle finger on her collar, another cookie. Don’t put any opposition pull back into it and for now, don’t start the verbal. She might pull around or add her own opposition but do your best to get the cookies in fast for finger on the collar and when she stands still even for a heartbeat – let go and toss a cookie. If she starts to get squirrely, just stand still – we really don’t want to send her to a wing, for example, if she is flingy/barky/bitey. Train the ‘stand still, be calm’ separately and then bring it back in front of the wing – and the reward for doing it will be the cookie and also being sent to the wing.
>> I will make that my priority for sure but yes she is in a higher arousal state and it all gets messy fast!
Now is the time to de-mess it all, because she is very young and basically a blank slate 🙂 In order to get released to the wing, shape her to have 4 feet on the ground and your hand on her collar. That is the criteria that needs to be train (separately) then met in order to get the send to the wing, same as the eventual start line stay criteria in front of a jump.
>>I thought I was supposed to connect less?
It is like Goldilocks and the 3 Bears – we want it just right 🙂 When you were bending over and staring at her, it was too much. When you were closing your shoulder forward and looking ahead, it was too little. At 1:33, it was just right 🙂 There needs to be enough connection so she has info about which side to be on.
Let me know what you think!
TracyGood morning! This looks great!
All of the ‘find the backside’ reps looked great, she is doing well about going to the backside and not the front side. You can add more of your motion to this now, as long as you keep the lovely connection and reinforcement!
She had a little more challenge with the countermotion. You can help support her commitment by shifting your connection to the landing spot as you release her from the stay (and as she comes around the entry wing, when you are putting it all together0. You would let her see you look from her eyes to the landing spot behind you, and you can also move your dog-side arm back to point at it as you move your eyes. That can help support that commitment when the rest of your body is moving forward past the exit wing 🙂
And when she is super comfy with that, you can add more motion there too – go from a slow walk to a fast walk, then from a fast walk to jogging. If she is very happy with all that over the course of several sessions, you can build up to a run.
Great job! let me know what you think!
TracyGood morning!
>>We have worked dog moving other side of gait in flyball. Good till dog runs (recall from stay not okay, walk/jog on leash fine) then brain falls out. >>
I am doing flatwork passing drills with my team tomorrow night to help the young dogs keep their heads on straight, I will get some video and send to you if you want. We have several young dogs that want to chase so this can help.
>>Did a little find my face to show Shelly at the barn for one of her dogs and Lanna did great but no video because watching and taping isn’t a thing.>>
I have found that one of the Laws Of Agility is that the dogs do a lot better when the video is not turned on LOL!
All sorts of great work on these videos!!! I am excited!
Barn clip 1 – I know this might an “outside the box” suggestion but since she is great with her pattern games… are there any super stinky spots in the barn where you can do these cookie tosses in the dirt? The environment we need her to assess and ignore is the stinky smelly scents so we might as well take the game directly to the Kryptonite.
I like what she is doing here in terms of engagement and agility!!! She seemed to like the cartoon lead out. Lovely agility, better jumping form (might be an indicator that she is thinking about the environment less), resilience to handler error (at 1:18 and 1:45 – disconnection from you caused the wrong tunnel entry, she needed a direct eye contact to know to get onto your left side), great tugging, and most importantly: IGNORING THE SHELLY KRYPTONITE. And based on her reaction at the end, Lanna totally knew she was there.
I feel like you are not having to work quite as hard to get and keep her attention in the barn.
Barn 2 – she took the good girl almost as a visit cue but then fixed it really quickly at the beginning!
This session also went well! I liked the fast/fun food delivery, it was very engaging. Also, good job at 1:40 turning to the red jump and not to THE SHELLY.
At 1:12- 1:18, you can add in taking your hand off her collar and see if she can move with you – pattern game, or offered engagement but no collar hold or food on her nose. I think she is ready for that and is far less likely to get caught in distractions.
Another big sign of god things happening: At 1:58, she was resilient to the tunnel handling error (funky rear cross and the big yes pulled her out) – she stayed engaged and didn’t feel the need to leave, which is something that might have happened a couple of months ago. That handler oopsie moment can also be a find my face moment 🙂
Stash video 1 – she is just great at the pattern games now, I feel we can add a bit more Kryptonite to them here too 🙂 Training on your own might just need adding in other distractions, but I am thinking more about using them around other dogs:
At the seminars and trials coming up, you can do a little more cookie tossing for the pattern games – maybe 2 feet off to the side, to allow her to assess the environment of the other dogs running, and offer engagement up to you. I think UKI will be smaller and people will be fine with you doing it on leash, and also it should be fine outside the ring at the seminar. The more we can help her ignore the other dogs moving, the easier everything becomes 🙂
Stash video 2 – nice job marking the offered engagement as you moved towards the jumps! I couldn’t see everything but it sounds like it went really well 🙂 You can do this with reinforcement hidden on you, for seminars where you will want reinforcement in the ring (the beginning of your first turn is perfect for a bit of engagement and surprise reinforcement :)) and also for NFC runs!
Great job! Let me know what you think and how the Monica seminar goes!
TracyGood morning!
Yes, you might have been over-connecting/bending as a band aid for sure! No worries, it is an easy fix 🙂>> So is it my position? Rotating out too soon or away? Also she was high as a kite. Had to wait out some leg hugs after a reward. >>
It was not position, your line was good on all of them except maybe the first rep – it was a combination of not enough connection while running, and messy starts to the reps.
First, looking at the starts – if the start to the rep is surprising or messy, she had a very high likelihood of failure. By surprising or messy, I mean that you kind of flung her in and took off, when either she was eating or barking or bouncing around. When it was a clean start? Very nice! Now, I know she is a high arousal dog and you might be avoiding dealing with some of that but now is a good time to work those clean starts because it will help you both a LOT in the future 🙂
I would like you to do a clean start on these reps, each time: line up at your side (using a cookie lure is fine for that, but you must let her finish it and swallow before you send her to the wing, there were a lot of reps where you delivered the food and then took off, so she was eating/coughing/choking) then gently slip a hand on her collar, start the verbal, then let go and step to the wing. You had the cleanest start of all the reps at 1:31 and not surprisingly, she was perfect.
Be ridiculously systematic and clean on the start of the reps, it will make a massive difference. She does not naturally bring patience and a desire to line up at your side, but working it in each time with a super high rate of reinforcement will be a game changer for you both.
As far as the connections – looking at 1:33, for example – as she came around the wing, you had direct eye contact while moving (and not moving super fast), with the dog-side shoulder dropped back and the toy in the outside arm. You can see this also at 1:20, 2:21, and 2:44. Also, on all of those reps, you were moving well but not racing her.
Compare that to :08 (motion a little lateral on this one too), :47, :49, :59, for example – no clear eye contact, you were looking ahead of her, with dog side shoulder closed forward so she didn’t quite no where to be.
So building on the clean starts to each rep, add in the reinforcement in the opposite arm, shown across your body as you move up the line – that gets the eye contact and dog-side shoulder dropping back while allowing you to stay in motion.
Also, revisit the turn and burn game form MaxPup 1, where you do these wraps and accelerations, with a lot of emphasis on connection while running.:
>>We had another dog there which I wanted the distraction. Not sure if that played a role.>>
She might have been more stimulated? But she certainly looked engaged and that is great!
Nice work! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi! I think this is going well! And it looks like she 100% took the jump when she arrived at the backside, which speaks to really strong placement of reinforcement.
>>. First side she did great turning left.
Yes, that looked really good. My only suggestions for that (more on the running line below) are to use a toy drop marker when you drop the toy in, so the backside verbal predict the ‘get it’ placement. and, it seems to be easier to get the toy in early when it is in your dog side hand.
One note about the front side rep at :33 – you can start the verbal and decel as she is exiting the start wing. At :33, she took off long based on your acceleration, and the decel and dig verbal started as she took off so it was too late for her to adjust. So as her nose exits the start wing, begin the dig dig verbal and then when her body is around the start wing, decelerate as you are moving forward – you don’t need to rotate until she is closer to the jump, but the earlier verbal and decel will help give her time to adjust for the collection.
>>When I switched sides I got a lot of fronts and I think I had my angle wrong. I wasn’t running towards the wing. Changed that and went to a treat hugger as I wasn’t sure the toy was rewarding enough.
The angle might have been a little harder but I think it was more of a running line issue we can tweak (and not so much of a shoulder issue). There was only one miss here on the video, at :59. What happened was as soon as you started the verbal, you also pulled away laterally at high speed, so the sudden change in motion pulled her off the backside. Quick changes of motion will generally override verbals at this age – my guess is you were trying to get past he exit wing for the countermotion exit.
On the other reps where she got it, you were moving more forward to the entry wing, almost curving your line towards it – but that makes is super hard to get to the countermotion exit.
In the long term, the countermotion exits will be really easy if you can be moving up the line to the center of the bar and not towards the entry wing so for now, let’s focus on the running line. It has definitely helped me to put a line or leash on the ground to I can help myself stay parallel to the line I want and not migrate over to the entry wing. So for now, the line goes from the start wing to where the bar meets the entry wing and you run on the line.
Then, the line moves over inch by inch so it ends up going to the center of the bar. You will want to be moving on that line the whole time and not pull away to it at this point, so when you start her at the start wind: it can be helpful to position yourself near the start of the line you want to run – on the same ‘plane’ as the start wing but not right next to it. So that way you will be sending her away a bit to the start wing and as she exits, you will already be moving up the parallel line to her path, towards the center of the bar. When you see her locked onto the backside entry wing, you can then move away to wherever you want to do the exit line.
>>Then, tried the banana arm. I think that’s what I’ll need to keep my shoulders correct.
At 1:16, the opposite arm allowed you to move more slowly up the line a little further away, keeping your feet more forward to the bar – that was the right combo of feet moving forward (and not moving off the line as much) and less motion because you added the challenge of being further away.
All of those factors play in together at this point, but that running line is probably her biggest challenge for now. Let me know if that makes sense and how the next sessions go!
Nice work 🙂
TracyGood morning! Fingers crossed for dry weather! You can submit videos through May 18th 🙂 Have fun with the garden!!!
Tracy
Good morning!
These are looking brilliant! He found all of the left/right turns really nicely thanks to lovely connection. And the in in stuff looks GREAT!!!!Since he is getting faster and faster (and will be even faster when he is fully adult) – we can obsess on a tiny detail of arm position that will support the lines better and get you to better position as well:
After the in in wing (which puts you a little behind)and getting to the wings on the other side of the tunnel, something to experiment with is *not* using a high, parallel arm (like at :12-:15) to support the line. It slows you down and risks blocking connection, so you can try just running (arms low and back, or pumping at your sides) to see how it feels.
You can see the arm causes question at :31 – he looks at you and then goes back out based on your motion
At the end, at :47-:49 you had that low arm – it got rid of his question because he can see connection more clearly, and produced more foot speed for you. When I compare your position at :31 versus :49, you are further ahead at :49 because the lower arm allows you to accelerate more, versus the high arm which slows you down.
Great job here! It is fun to plan the tiny details to help handle his speed!!!!
Tracy
Good morning!
>> Well we did a short practice at Carrie’s tonight. Mostly small sequencing and Fever going back to the pool
I asked Carrie about blocking it off but she said it still doesn’t change the fact that he’s leaving…>>Yes, I agree with Carrie. Blocking it off can prevent the actual swimming but he is still leaving which means too much failure. To help him learn to engage in the presence of the most powerful Kryptonite, you can control the environment in other ways – further distance from the pool, higher value reinforcement, shorter sessions. The reinforcement value will be the hardest because we want to find things that can compete with the environment but can also be used in an agility setting: so swimming and throwing a frisbee are challenging to use. You might need to go to super high food value, like a nice mid-rare steak? What is his highest value wet gross food?
>>Anyway towards the end of our session, a sheltie broke out of an ex pen and ran at him.
Both postured, Fever growled a little BUT NO ONE THREW HANDS
thank god because Fever was like 3x the sheltie and it belonged to a junior.
Anyway. Juniors gathered sheltie calmly, which then allowed me to walk to Fever and feed him.Sounds like you all handled it really well!
>>He took food but was then spooked, shut down after
Anything that I should do knowing we are showing Saturday and Sunday? Should I not train?>>The spook is more of a chemical response than anything. You can get some sniffing engaged (tossing treats into the grass) and some chewing. And correct – no training needed, but I would say the same thing on the Thursday before a 2 day trial anyway! Rest! What I would do is try to get more serotonin into his brain, maybe some oxytocin going too – so just play some frisbee or go swimming without tiring him too much and without any behavior attached to it. Those 2 things are ultra high value and should be a part of life, but separately need to have more stimulus control when training.
Let me know if that makes sense.
TracyGood morning!
>> As the Saturday wore on, the behavior fell apart. Not surprising given the reinforcement history. The barking and dancing increased without her offering or performing a lineup.
Yes, the reinforcement history is much bigger for the other behavior, plus mental depletion plays a role – how many runs were FEO where you were able to specifically reinforce the line up in the ring? Bringing new behaviors into the ring require a decent amount of reinforcement to override the reinforcement history of other behaviors.
Two other things – her stays are always best when you are turning off the pressure, and also the between-the-feet lineup works best when she moves into position from behind you. So combining those two things: leave her in the stay behind you, step forward then call her into position (you started with her in front of you, and she really doesn’t have as strong reinforcement history on that yet). And then as soon as she is in position? Get outta there – no leaning over, no fiddling with position, no walking away… just jog outta there. That is when she is at her very best! I know it is not the ‘traditional’ approach to a start line but this ain’t obedience LOL!!!
>>So Sunday, I went back to letting her settle and leave. Question. She is moving from a sit to a down when she was lining up and then into a play bow as I moved away. Thoughts? Should I change to asking for a down instead?>>
This builds into what I mention above – we really don’t care which position she holds, as longs as she holds her position, doesn’t move forward, doesn’t break the stay. So whichever line up you use, she will be at her best if you just tell her to stay and then run away. I have video of this somewhere in the demos with Hot Sauce and I sometimes do it with CB too: when stimulations levels are high for whatever reason, I just say stay and get outta there. No pressure, I just lead out (of course there is engagement before that, so the dog is not surprised by my departure LOL!!) The stay cue for my dogs, and for Roulez as well, is a form of that “freeze dance” game – whenever you hear it, stop moving, position is not relevant. So Hot Sauce stands, and CB will either stand or put himself into a sit (both are fine :)) Neither moves a foot til I release. Roulez is very similar, just louder 🙂 so it is worth a try! I also do a TON of reinforcement in the trial ring for stays because I love stays LOL!
On the pattern games, were you waiting for eye contact? You can reinforce any engagement that is NOT out at the great big universe, even if she is looking at your hands 🙂 A fun pattern game variation for her would be to wait for her to offer being quiet, but that would need to start with a really low level of stimulation (history of barking built in makes it harder :)). Criteria for the reinforcement could be closed mouth 🙂
Doing the pattern game with the food mixed in worked well with the toy!
Time for more Kryptonite because she is doing really well with this – when training on your own, what makes her really stimulated?On the line up section – on the first reps, that is what I mean by she understands moving to position from behind you, not when facing you. So in a trial environment, you can leave her in a semi-stay, go to your spot, then call her into position. Compare to 3:05 ish where she was not really behind you and couldn’t get the line up from the side or in front of you – she as engaged and offering, but she doesn’t understand it from in front – she did eventually get it, but that was at 3:34, after she offered something else which put her behind you. When she was behind you, she recognized the cue. That is useful to know! Good job rewarding that moment.
At 2:48 you got the down behavior, but you probably don’t need it. She moved into position well, you can dismount and run to your lead out. It seems that leaning over is a cue to bark 🙂 so no need to fiddle with it because more barking means more movement and more arousal. Her ‘all business’ variation might be more along the lines of ‘get outta there as fast as possible’ for you.
More on getting her into position – at 3:48 and 4:43 she was behind you and went right into position, great line ups and stays the whole time!
So using the set up where she starts a little behind you and moves into position, you can now put this into more kryptonitey situations. Can she line up in front of the pool? In front on a tunnel?
Great job! Let me know what you think!
TracyGood morning!
>> as of now I don’t think Promise could handle class and me teaching. I’m Working on her crating skills and patiently waiting. That is a LONG way off.
It sounds perfect for a Kryptonite game! You can have her crated in the house and bring her out to do a pattern game or something during a walk through. Using her as demo dog is GREAT!!!!
>>v So, she is starting to push the envelope again on her start line. I realize from your comments it’s probably my fault too lol!!! In my mind at judys I was taking steps lol, the video did not lie hahaha.>>
Yes, you were not leading out at Judy’s 🙂 Usually when a behavior erodes, it is a reinforcement issue, as in: when was the last time you reinforced it, specifically? Even on this video, the move into the position and stay was not reinforced specifically (the marker to get the reinforcement came after a couple of jumps). So balance everything with frequent reinforcement for both moving into the ‘ready’ position and reinforcing specifically for holding the position (throwing the reward back to her, or using her remote reinforcement marker to get the treats behind her). That is part of what makes agility so complex: all the small pieces need to be maintained through criteria maintenance and reinforcement, throughout the dog’s career.
On the video:
>> I did have a lightbulb today, that I may not be asking her for the ready when she has engagement with me.>>
Thinking about this – yes, she might need to be engaged before the ready cue. It is entirely possible that she need to be *more* stimulated to hold her stay, not less stimulated. Optimal arousal state is pretty high, so you can try getting her more stimulated with tricks and such before the stay behavior. On the very first stay where she did not hit position right away or hold it as well (you mark it as incorrect twice) – you were very chill bringing her to the start line, lots of stationary things happening before you came in. A little too much all business perhaps, outside the ring?
Before the next 2 stays, there was a lot more action: tugging, tricks etc – so she was immediately better and there was higher arousal and more engagement, and more success.
So she might be all business as you lead out, but she might need a lot of action before she enters the ring and on the way to the line. On the 3rd rep where she was sniffing – this was over 5 minutes into the session, which might not see like a lot but it is indeed a long time. You can set a timer on the session and go for 2.5 minutes then take a break. And, if you get surprise sniffing, no problem: use your toolbox to get her re-engaged by moving her slightly away from the sniff spot and doing some higher energy tricks. That should help 🙂
So I think overall, the remote reinforcement line up games (and sequence running) can be balanced more with rewarding the stay specifically (and not just with remote reinforcement, you can have food/toys in your hands or pockets). That will keep the behavior from eroding as you work on other stuff too 🙂 With a baby dog, I like to reinforce at least 50% of stays in training!
Nice work! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi! This was fun to see!
First 2 reps were cartoon mashup – this was the winner overall the ‘all business’ lead outs! Running on the cartoon releases, trotting on the all business releases, She was faster and more engaged when you were doing your Elmer Fudd/Pink Panther 🙂 Look at her at the beginning – distracted but then enticed by the silly walk. On the 2nd rep, she was very focused and there were a zillion distractions in the environment. Were you also talking to her? It was hard to hear. If so – great! If not… add some quiet talking like ‘ready… ready….’
The only other things I would add in would to take the leash off (if possible) and don’t give her a cookie on the stay before you lead out. Those are not that useful for building the behavior and are very hard to fade when working to get her comfy in the trial environment.
You can also add in the jump! Let me know how it goes, I liked her responses on the cartoon mashup reps!
Tracy
