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Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
>>I am a physical therapist. I have my own practice (solo) for 12 years. Everyone and their brother in law is here this time of year, but with COVID winding down and everyone traveling again-especially to Florida, our roads and businesses are packed. Season winds down in April, so I am happy to be near the end.
That is so cool! I have found that the human PTs are also great dog trainers and handlers – it is pretty interesting to see the correlation! And April is just a few weeks away, onwards to more time to relax and play with Prism π
Threadle video:
>> So this has motion and the harder angle!!
Motion makes threadles sooooo much harder! Truth!!!
>>Before you watch, you should have a drink. I made a bunch of errors with the toy-but before you crawl through the camera to bonk me on the head, I do eventually figure out my mistake (spoiler alert).>>
Bwhahahhaa! Thanks for the alert LOL!
On this video, the 2 main things are:
-always have a bit of motion, no stopping or stationary handling… but be really careful with the motion LOL!!! You will want ot move forward slowly, at a snail’s pace to set him up for success. The upper body cue can still happen but it is important that your feet are always moving forward – and not rotating or stopping – because dogs are amazing at reading the tiny details of out footwork.
On the first part of the session, you had a little grapevine foot rotation (for example at 1:22and 1:51, then later at 6:13) and he got it – when you didn’t do the small rotation and were walking forward a bit too fast, he serpentined the jump.
– watch for too much failure. It was not a bad idea to try a placed toy, but it was too hard – he had a bunch of failures, so let that 2 failure rule raise red flags when training. 1 failure? yellow flag of caution π 2nd failure? red flag, change the game a bit π
And you did change it up – the second side was defniitely better, with very slow movement as you rotated to face the jump. So start moving forward very very slowly on that side – not stopping or rotating, but moving very slowly, kind of like how fast ou would be able to move while squeezing a quarter between your butt cheeks and not letting it fall out π
>>Video 2: lateral-OUT
Not so sure of the set up-seemed too simple. Like, where is the off course temptationβ¦>>LOL! It is simple – part of the temptation is to NOT take the jump when you don’t cue an out as you saw him consider at 2:21 and afterwards π And also to get him to do the out wihtout you stepping to the jump at all – you started off with a little bit of stepping to the jump then you got much better at not moving towards it. Yay!
Is ‘close’ a bypass cue? This is technically not a bypass, because the ‘out’ jump is not on his line so he shouldn’t consider it wiithout the cue. I only use a bypass when there is something on the line that we don’t want – because bypass cues slow us and the dogs down. So he should just stay on his line and not grab anything off to the side that requires a lead change, unless you cue it specifically.
The real world course looked great! Hooray, what a good boy! He did well on the wraps towards you, the soft turn, and the wrap away from you (a little rear cross moment too!) and also doing the soft turns and wraps in front of the tunnel! Nice!
Looking at his questions:
At 3:14, on a wrap cue with more motion – he collected, fell on his head, got it wrong – then fixed it on the next rep, good boy. I think the ‘falling on his head’ moment was him trying to go fast AND process the verbal π He was great on the rep right after it! the falling on his head moment is also why we do these games with a low bar so he doesn’t hurt himself while learning to do all the things π
4:43 – nice wrap before the jump but then he didn’t go to the next one – he didn’t see a physical cue to the jump (you were moving laterally) an there was no verbal cue, plus the toy was moving hand-to-hand – so he assumed he was done and it was toy time, then things were off the rails a bit – better to reset in that moment than to keep going. Also, I think you have a marker word for “toy in my hand is now available for ggrabbing” which will help him look for jumps even if the toy is moving – so be sure to use the marker during reinforcement. If not, we can add one, it has been really helpful!
His other question was at 5:19, when he didn’t take the wing even with the verbal. You had started to rotate a bit early, so he wanted to chase your line. The fast lines game will help get the commitment better because you can tart to rotate earlier there and the momentum will help support his commitment.
He is getting to the age where you will want to space things out even more (wheee!) so he can open up and run – since he did so well here, you can do just the tunnel with one jump as far away as possible on one side, and do a handling challenge on the other side, and switch them back and forth as needed, depending on what challenge you want to show him.
>>All I needed was to see if I could turn him off of the tunnel, which we did.
He was brilliant!
>> Ginger and I did UKI 30Γ30 at home courses and those are brain-busters. Not recommended for dogs with speed or emotional issues. (Funny, not funny)
TOTALLY AGREE!!! I did some 30×30 when the pandemic started and did it wth my most experienced dog… he thought it was ridiculous. LOL! I ended up spreading them out to be less ridiculous and now I only do the bigger courses.
>>is a bit surprised as we are able to meet her challenges without any struggle. I am very pleased with myself).
You should be pleased with yourself, he is looking great!!!!
>> Her comments were complimentary on the way you lay out progressive challenges in each exercise.
Yay! She is a terrific trainer so it is good to know she thinks it is a good set of challenges.
>>Her only reprimand, to me, was to use the barrel instead of the wing wrap to start. We both studied under Lisa Frick last summer I think, when she posted TACO TUESDAY to train up her new puppy. All of April was barrel work. I think that was how Prism got to understand βFOCUSβ on the start line>>
You can totally use a barrel! I use barrels in the puppy classes – I use wings here so that the dogs can apply the verbals to the wings, which has helped speed up the learning. They can look at the wing and the jump and have a long history of what the verbal means on the wing π There has been no negative fallout, only learning, because we are giving specific cues matched with specific reinforcement on the wings.
>> and a training methodology of βrinse and repeatβ or, for agility, βtreat and repeatβ, ha ha. She used tons of praise and simple set ups, so no errors.>>
Yes! Learning comes from reinforcement, so the more reinforcement we get in, the more learning. Lisa is amazing!!!!
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterGood morning!
SUPER valuable info in these videos, thanks for posting them!In the first video:
During the pattern game, try to be less exciting in your motion and posture, just wander a bit or stand there. Let her drive the bus π The exciting motion and posture is a way of asking her to engage and we want her to choose that on her own after assessing the environment, rather than asking for engagement without assessing the environment (she has an error or wanders off to a distraction when she is asked to do something without an assessment moment). And, after each reinforcement for something good on course – use a moment of pattern game to reset her for the next rep (see below). Her offered engagement will let you know when she is ready to be cued for the next part of the sequence.There was a really interesting change in her demeanor between the jumps as opposed to away from the jumps (closer to the camera). This is something I see throughout these sessions – the engagement doesn’t necessarily transfer to a new location yet. No worries! You can take a moment and repeat the pattern game there, because she looked around more and needed to assess the environment. The volume dial game (the toy play and tricks) is great but if she needs to assess the environment, we want to do the pattern game until she can’t take her eyes off of you – then she is ready for more π
>>This is diametrically opposite of what I get at trials
yes and no – her response here is basically same as what you might be seeing at trials, just a different presentation of it because the external and internal environments are different. She is on the other side of the Y-D bell curve but we will still be able to work through it – and then you will see the speed/arousal levels balance out in all locations.
So definitely do the pattern game as a reset between each agility sequence rep and reward. Let her then offer engagement, then you can carry on (it will only take a few seconds). When you reward then try to restart, she is generally unsuccessful.
In the barn, as you are working on the engagement – use lower bars so the agility behavior is easier and she doesn’t have too think about it as much. She doesn’t have a jumping problem but the organization of full height jumping AND ignoring all of the internal/external distractions might be too much at first. When offering engagement is easier in the barn, the jumps can easily go back up to full height.
On the 2nd video:
Line up games – as I found out, we have to be quick to turn around to call the dog through at first LOL! She seemed to like this game! I think we can definitely build on it! She came into focus pretty quickly because there is action, a pattern game element and just generally silly fun with no pressure (plus tasty treats :)) so in your free time, build this all the way up to the lead outs. That can be done anywhere (at work, at home, etc) because I know the you don’t really have much free time π
In this video as well, I definitely see her needing some games after each reinforcement to reset the engagement in a new part of the ring, like at 1:18 – even though the reinforcement was lovely, she is in a different part of the ring so she needs to refocus. This is good to know and that is probably happening in trials too… so if you reward with a toy at a trial, we will then take a moment to reset before sending her into the next part of the course. Or if you are running for real and there is an error, don’t fix it, just keep moving because there is no way to reset (yet – stay tuned for ways to play without cookies and toys :))
On both videos, she was at her best when she was further from the camera – I am sure the dirt smelled the same LOL! so it is probably the environment with the people ad dogs. You can see at the end that it was hard for her to stay engaged being closer to the people. So in the barn, start each session further from the people so the games and then the agility can have more success! Then you can make things a little more challenging and get closer to the people… then end each session by getting further from the people so it is easier.
Let me know what you think!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterGood morning!
Really good session here!
>>n watching the video I can see many losses of connection (boo!) but itβs more o work on. For some reason I keep thinking Iβm going to run into things so itβs hard for me o connect with him.>>
Well, it is a valid concern! You might run into things so wear shoes in case you smack a wing with your toes – ouch! I think with increased connection downwards to him, you will expand your field of peripheral vision so you won’t run into things.
To get even more connection, think of this all as a big conversation with him, all verbals direted to his eyes as you run of course π and having your arm waaaaay back and down to his nose will help – you can see that when you are closer to the camera, your dog side arm is at your side at 1:00 and 1:17, for example and you are looking ahead of him to the wing – so he slows down, making sure that he is correct. Your verbal and position were great! Meet him more at the tunnel exit for now so you can accelerate forward with your eyes on his and arm back.
Also maintain that connection at 1:02 and 1:19 we can only see your back and at 1:35 that broken comectoin pulled him off the wing. Much better moment of connection at 1:56 and he got the wing! Nice!
So for now, really over-exaggerate the connection – it gets easier as the dogs get more experienced.
>>I did take your advice and practice a walkthrough without the dog to get the verbals better and that helped β still not perfect but better.
Totally better! And it helps make them more ‘2nd nature’ and not something you have to think about while running.
>>Also I tried to stop saying useless encouraging words between cues and I think it was better. I still sometimes forgot thee mechanics for releasing to the toy with βGet itβ but I guess Iβll focus on that next! >>
It was great! Lots of good info while he was running and no extra words π You did have some moments of the get it but don’t bug yourself too much about that for now – keep emphasizing info-only during the runs and then eventually it will et easier to add in the reward markers too. SO MANY WORDS LOL!!
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterGood morning! Nice work with these games!
First up, the tricks:
Hop up for delayed cookie – great!
Twist and spin – use a hand cue so she isn’t wrong (they are tricks so we can help her out π ) these also went well with the delayed cookie when she knew which way to turn.Leg weaves – great also with the delayed cookie.
Chin rest – she did well with this one too! It is not really an active trick so file it into the engaged chill category for those games π
Bow another good one, I think it went better when you released to a cookie from your hand rather than toss, I think it keeps her engaged better.
back – Also great!
And one more thing I notice is that it is good to know that when you say ‘ready’, it gets her barking π So if you don’t want the barking, try not to say ready.
Now… play these games with toys and tugging!
Great job starting the pattern games – she caught on pretty quickly to the ground and to your feet – she thought the snacks moment was a little weird at first but then she got more into it LOL
When you add the distraction object (I think you had a bit of garden fencing there) – you can be a bit further from it so she is not trying to offer behavior on it. We don’t want her to think it is some kind of shaping game π You can be 6 or 8 feet away, walking back and forth a bit so she can look at it if she wants, but she won’t feel the need to interact with it. The toy distraction went well too, you can add moving back and forth now for that as well!
Great job here! The next steps can be the remote reinforcement and the engaged chill games too!
Tracy
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi! This went really well!
On the first part, dog-on-left:
Position 1:
She is getting really good at all of these! This was highly successful and I am really happy with how independent the backside slice is getting!! Love it!
The circle wraps are a little harder, but she also did really well – she wanted to slice at first but then got tighter and tighter on these. And she was able to balance to the front side really well.Position 2:
More really independent backside slices here!!! As you get further ahead, try to throw the reward back even more to the landing spot for the backside slices, so that she doesn’t want to look at you at all. Same with the circle wrap – that will help her set up the jumping too.Position 3 – this is where she had a couple of questions about the backside slices. It might have been that you were pulling away too fast, so you can keep moving fast but run forward longer, as if running directly to the exit wing, til you see her committing to the entry wing (this will still get you amazing position on course!) I think you don’t need to slow down, you can keep the speed as long as you are moving forward and not pulling away. And try not to help by stepping to the entry wing (4:10) because you ended up being in her way an she ended up dropping the bar (it was the only dropped bar in this session!)
The 2nd part of this session, dog-on-right – she had some errors here but I think it was a bit of mental & physical fatigue. You can break this into 2 sessions of 5 minutes each with a rest break in between, even if she acts like she doesn’t want a rest LOL!!
She was still getting it right on this side, but not as precisely – a bit wider into the backside slices and wraps for example. She is better doing her circle wraps to her left than to her right, she is nice and tight turning to her left!
Overall, she executed brilliantly on this side too from all 3 start positions!! I love how well she is processing the difference between the cues so you can just run π Yay!
You can play with more of the adding height games, and then this game can come up to full height too!
Great job! Let me know what you think π
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterGood morning!
I sent an access request for the history π Google docs is being silly this week!
After watching these 3 trial videos and the home video, I see a couple of patterns emerging:
She is a fast, talented dog – it is totally worth it to crack the code and help her get very happy in the ring!
She doesn’t like front crosses all that much π They take too long to finish and if you are even a heartbeat late, she has to collect and wait… and the slows down and starts to think about other things. So… blind crosses! I am going get you REALLY happy to do all the blind crosses so she can just go fast fast fast fast fast π
She totally does not like the weaves in the trial setting. She is stunning with her weaves at home. My guess is that it is a reinforcement issue – having to do the really complex weaves without fully knowing how to earn reinforcement in a very difficult environment (West Coast outdoor trials have a lot more distractions, like roads, than other parts of the country!).
But no worries, we can both get her happy in the ring AND rebuild the weave love. For now, set the weaves aside completely – no need to train them at home or ask for them at trials. We will get started with the games, particularly the remote reinforcement games and the tricks (with the rewards not being obvious) and see how she does π
Let me know what you think! And if google won’t give me access to the history, you can copy and paste it here π
Tracy
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHaha yes!!! We jumped right in and got to work LOL!
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterGood morning! Great to see you and Promise here, I think it is wonderful that you are training this before she really starts to trial!!!
This is a really interesting history – thank you for the info about her outside-of-agility anxieties, as those can explain some of her reactions to stimuli in agility! Addressing the underlying emotions will make a HUGE difference in her coping skills in the ring!
I think we will definitely be emphasizing the pattern games with her at first, as these have been AMAZING for helping dogs stay in the right ‘head space’ and ignore things that might increase anxiety (which is what her puppyhood issues like resourse guarding as based in, as well as not being able to eat kibble or have a ‘hard mouth’ with a higher value treat – and difficulty recovering. And some of it is just that she is still really, really young π Have you tried a tennis ball as a reward in those situations?
>>.I do not take her out until other dog is almost done running. I play games that focus on me until we walk to start. I have her face away from field until it is her turn to start>>
Take a look at the pattern game for your next training session – let’s get that one going and then we will be applying it to being around other dogs running agility.
>>The times she has run after other dogs have been when we were going back to get set up for next exercise>>
This is where we can add in engagement games and pattern games too so she stays engaged in these transition moments.
>>I was doing another stay program with her that was not a game and that program frustrated her. It was if she moved out of position I was to stop all motion and turn toward her and stare at her till she resumed position. She would bark at me and then flip me the finger and say Iβm outa here!>>
“Not a game” often translates into “too much punishment” and Promise has no time for that LOL!
>>Insisting on her doing a behavior gets me no where or it gets me bitten and most barked the riot act!>>
Insisting often translates into punishment as well – and while some dogs will tolerate that, many do not an Promise is very clear about her opinions LOL!!!!
Looking at the videos:
You had a great toolbox of tricks!!! I saw:
Leg weaves/line ups, catch, hand touch, speak and snap (I love this one :)),beep for backing up, hopping up on you , down and release, spin and twist. Hopefully I didn’t miss any but these are great!
Try to either feed all the treats from your hand, drop on your toes, or do a catch to her mouth rather than toss them off to the side – I suggest this mainly because it will be really hard to do the cookie tosses to the ground in a trial setting, when you are near the ring. The pattern game does have cookie tosses to the ground, but as we bring it closer to the ring, it will move to your hands or to your shoes πAnd now try the next steps where the cookies are in your pocket – cue an easy trick with an empty hand, then whip out a cookie to reward. This will help us fade cookies for when we want her to respond without seeing the paycheck first.
You can also try toy rewards for these tricks! First with the toy in your hand, then hidden in a pocket and whipped out as a reward.
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterGood morning!
This is an insightful video!>> going between my legs as she just really wants to not near my feet.
I started this with a big slice of string cheese in each hand, with full on cookie lures, moving slowly. It was a rehab exercise that my dog needed to learn (slow moving leg weaves)- she didn’t like being close to my feet at first but the lures were delicious so they jump-started the behavior.
Does she like cream cheese or something like that? You can get 2 long spoons with a dab of delicious on each, to lure her around just one leg.
She has a lot of really good tricks!!! She seems to really like the pivoting (get in), the spins (left/right) and popping up at your side.
I notice on the video she doesn’t want to drive into your hand to take a cookie. She likes the tossed cookies back and forth… but that is not something easily transferred to the trial environment because it is hard to toss cookies far enough away to rely on that to keep her engaged.
And you mentioned towards the end that she doesn’t want to come in close to you. I see it here! Thinking about start line setups, she needs to be kind of close to you and if she thinks that is icky, it could explain why she is not always excited at the start line. Good to know!! We can make plans to find her happy place
>>I have not been able to teach any kind of jump up
She did a great job with the high hand touch especially when you were feeding her high!
So here is how we can add to your plan:
We need to keep her ‘high’ and also get her happier being near you – without relying on cookie tosses. Taking her favorite tricks, like spins and pivoting – do those, and have her hop up high to get the cookie. So it would be one spin, then hop up for the cookie, then move to a different spot, spin or pivot, hop up for the cookie and so on! I think that can tackle two things: getting her high when you have limited space like outside the ring – and getting her happier to be close to you.Let me know what you think! She is doing really well!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterGood morning! She is doing really well with this difficult game!!
The beginning looked great! her wraps were consistently strong! She had some tunnel questions – more on that below π
I can hear the sheep when they appeared LOL but she came back to work very quickly! Good girl!
Looking at her tunnel questions – she is a very literal young dog π I think some of her questions had to do with connection. Looking at the tunnel cue at 1:47 – while she was still behind you, you pointed forward and that rotated your shoulders to face the center of the tunnel. Baby dogs are very literal – shoulders pointed to the center, so that is where she went and she didn’t go in the entry. It might have looked like she was chasing the toy, but it was more of a disconnection issue. Compare that to your connection all the way through the line at 2:01 – perfect! She knew to go into the tunnel there because connection and the line of your shoulders supported the tunnel entry. It is normal for baby dogs to ask this question, so for now try to over-exaggerate the connection to help her commit.
The same thing happened at 2:30 π
She only had one question about the wing wrap, and it was a connection question. At 2:20, you were looking at your side more than at her eyes, so she ended up in line up position LOL! So have your arm all the way back so she can see your eye contact, until she is catching up to you and passing you, committing to the wing.
Your connection was gorgeous at 2:27 and she was great with her commitment!
After her tunnel question at 2:30, yes she lost her tunnel skills LOL! It possibly could have been just a bit of uncertainty from the previous reps but also it is possible that the tunnel exit rewards were from your hand in this session, so the value shifted to your hands – and she didn’t want to leave your hands (and the reward). You can add in thrown rewards for the tunnel, to help keep the tunnel drive away balanced with the drive back to you.
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterGood morning! Nice session here too! More boring feedback hahaha
I really like her mechanics here and also she has bumped things up a notch – usually with puppies I can watch these at normal speed and see all the things, because they are not moving fast yet. Well, Sprite had her first video that I needed to watch in slow motion because she was much faster here but happily never lost her form. Some Aussies like to have their heads up while jumping but she is doing a terrific job of presenting a lovely, head-down form. Happy dance!
Next session – do a rep on 8 and if the form looks like it did here, go to 10″.
>Question about a tossed reward. I donβt really want her to jump through the grid afterwards for that. But,I like the toss as a placed toy behind is a big antecedent. Me walking away could ge a toss back or get the toy. Sprite is very level headed around her toys. >>
When you tossed the reward back to her, you stepped to the side and greeted her – I thought it was lovely, playful and engaged π She went over the first jump but I have no problem with her doing that,
>>I like the toss as a placed toy behind is a big antecedent.
I like the toss too, but I also work the toy behind because it is something we use in trials to help ‘anchor’ the dog to the stay position (eventually we develop a cue that turns the dog back to the leash behind her as a reward for the stay, plus the leash is a great in-the-ring reinforcement and anchor for ‘remote reinforcement’.) But the toy behind the dog is there all the time, and sometimes we release forward, sometimes we toss the reward back.
So you can take an all-of-the-above approach because it expands the toolbox of reinforcement while also helps prevent anticipation (aka broken stays or leaning forward).
>.Question on how to measure the distance. Is it center of bump to center of bar? This is a tad over 5 ft distance.>>
I generally do the edge of the bump to the edge of the bar, but the difference is only an inch or two – so either way is fine π For now, this distance is working nicely but I bet we will end up putting her at 6 feet as the bar comes up and as she continues her powerful approach.
>>Sprite is very level headed around her toys.>>
I love this! You have built up the toy play into something that is clearly fun, but without sacrificing her ability to work with precision and focus. YAY!!
Great job π
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterGood morning!
Ugh, I am sorry to hear about your tech troubles!!!!
The dogs did well on the videos!
For Fusion on the fast lines video:
This is going well, she is developing strong commitment and verbal skills! You can say Go sooner – as soon as as she exits first wrap so it applies to the jump. You were getting later and saying it as a way to get her to go to the next wing, but that should be a turn cue and not a GO.
Also, since she is doing really well, be sure to keep moving all the time and add in faster motion too. When you stop, she freezes but as long as you stay in motion, she looks great! So keep adding more and more speed, including the FC on the wing and run back to challenge her to find the jump from behind you.Fusion also did really well with the mini course! She balanced the extension and the tight turns really well. She is fast!!!! The soft left turn at the end looked great too. So now we can add more:
You can use this setup to put yourself further and further behind her, or laterally distant from her – the distances on the courses you run in NZ require her to respond even when you are not close to her. So you can run very close to the tunnel or hang back laterally to be sure she can respond as well even when you are not close.With Veloz – be careful about usingg the outside arm as it stops him in his tracks when you decelerate (or stop) and put the outside arm up (like at :09). But when you stay in motion, he seems fine with the outside arm (like at :23). Also with the outside arm – I think he doesn’t always knows which side of the wing to take when you send from standing still with an outside arm (:55) but that might be fine if there is a jump there instead of a wing.
he is also developing good verbal skills – at 1:15 you said go go then left and the left was really late but good boy, he fixed it and turned left π Yay! So as with Fusion – say go as he exits the first wing so it applies to the jump, then switch to the wrap or soft turn verbals.
And also, for Veloz – add more motion rather than sending while decelerating or standing still – try to stay in fast motion the whole time!Great job! Let me know what you think!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterGood morning! (Or Good night there :))
This session looked fabulous – super high rate of reinforcement, great stay, lots of stay rewards, her jumping form looked good, lots of rewards for that, really nice!!!!! You also did a lovely job bending over a bit to help keep her focus downward to the reward target. Since this went so well, we can change things a little for the next session, a couple of ideas for you:
You can reverse the visual presentation of the set point. Have your wingless jump be the first one, and the wing jump with bump be jump #2. That will change her approach to it, in a good way by asking for even more power.
We will probably add a little more distance between the jumps, maybe go to a meter which is a bit bigger than 3 feet, I believe. But first, letβs look at the moving target:
I know that she is still learning to love toys, so it might be too hard to mix toys in with throwing cookies back to reward the stays (and I donβt want to remove the cookies entirely, that seems unfair to her). So we can be creative with the moving target – rather than a toy, we can move a food holder. What were you using here as the food target? If it is a lotus ball or something like that, you can tie it to a long, light line and drag it with the cookie in it π Or, maybe attach a light bowl to a line and drag it? We can play with different food-dragging ideas in the moving target pre-game and then add it back to the set point – the moving target will get even more power while maintaining good form.
Great job here! Let me know what you think, especially about a moving food target π
Tracy
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterYay for working with the toy! And yes, you can move things in closer to make it easier, then spread them back out π Fingers crossed for good weather ahead!!
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterThis is great – you hang out with very helpful people! They might not have wanted to show them to you if the runs didnβt go as well as you wanted, but in terms of the training and planning, these videos might be VERY useful! We are looking for data to see how we can help him. Yay for videos!!!
Tracy
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