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Hi!
The transitions looked great here!!! Yay! Keep doing more Go reps than turns, to keep her running in full extension (you an throw the reward super early, as she exits the start wing, to get her blasting ahead even more).I notice that you are bending over a bit with her – I don’t recall any bending over with the BCs 🙂 so perhaps you can add more distance between the wing and the jump now, so you can run more (which should help you not bend over as much :))
Zig zags also look great, and her stay is going well too!
She was a little surprised about the first rep with all 3 bars but then she was perfect. Super!!!! So 2 things for the next session – you can shorten the distance up a little more, but having wing #2 touching bar 1, and wing #3 touching bar 2.And, you can try giving the arm cues more quickly, to see if she can respond even more quickly 🙂 I think she will be fine with it.
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi!
>>But then I waited and when she came back I did a little VD to bring her up before the wrap start.>>The volume dial tricks TOTALLY helped her here! Yay! You can work in immediate volume dial tricks – you put her down, she offers a bit of engagement, then you do some tricks to get her ready. It looks like she ‘cooled off’ a little waiting at the line, and volume dial tricks are perfect for heating her up again 🙂
She did well running past the bar setters, I am glad they are in the ring – make that a lifestyle now! No more sterile rings 🙂 It was a nice fast, fun course and it was great advice from the instructor to reward for coming past the bar setter the next time too. The table was the easiest spot to reward, but you can reward over jumps too.
One thing to add in now is that you can reward pieces of the behavior rather than try to get the complete behavior, when working with bug kryptonite level distractions. She had trouble with the instructor really close at 1:25 – she didn’t take the jump but didn’t visit or sniff. In that situation… just keep running and reward the approximation of ignoring the person. Sure, she didn’t take the jump – but we are shaping behavior here and can reward pieces of it and not worry about perfection. Since she didn’t go to the person or sniff, you can keep moving and reward and then go back and fix. By turning her around to try again, you basically mark it as incorrect and present the distraction again – a reward for the approximation will help make it easier as you show it to her again. Then when she came back through it at 2:28 – mark and reward that for sure!! She got the jump that time but got rewarded at the end, a couple of jumps later. So just keep in mind that we are rewarding behavior in the context of agility, not agility 🙂
>>We have also been working on Pink Panther lead outs – She kinda thinks I’m nuts, but she’s used to that by now and is waiting to see what I’m up to and if it’s worth it to her. She held her stay about half the time, ears a little flat and only watching me out of the corner of her eye. When she broke I just laughed and through a cookie behind her. When she did stay her releases were fast – faster than when I did an “all business” lead out. My instinct is that we should sleep on it a day or two and see what she does next time, because I think the silly walk is more explosive though she understands all business better – because that’s what she’s had more reps of.>>
Yes, part of the fun of those games are that the dogs think we are completely nuts LOL!!! It is possible she will really like it! Or not 🙂 Play with it in a comfortable seeing then try it in class – she will probably like the moving away/chase elements of it!
>>It occurs to me – I probably should practice the lead out as a “lateral” as well, yes? Because I often have to move laterally to get around the wing after setting her down, depending on how the course goes.>>
Yes – you can step out to your line laterally in a calmer way, then start the game when you start to move forward on your handling line here, before the release.
Nice work here! Let me know what you think!
TracyGood morning!
>> Thanks for the comments. I redid the accordion tonight at 54 inches instead of 64. Unfortunately, I didn’t realize until afterwards that I had 4 jumps and not 3! LOL. I will redo it tomorrow and upload.
The accordion grid can be eon with 4 jumps (the 4th jump is the one that moves, for example) but I start the pups on 3 for a bit. Eventually they do go to 4 jumps (and all sorts of variations LOL!) Yo can post that video if you like! No rush to redo it today or tomorrow, since he has done it 2 days in a row. He can have a day or two off from jumping to let the body rest and brain cement the skills 🙂
The backside work looked lovely!! He is really finding the backsides independently, allowing you to get all the way across the bar for the Countermotion serpy exits. YAY!! When you are moving to the center of the bar or the far side of the bar, you can remove the bar on the ground that is marking the line to the entry wing for the handler – I don’t want you to roll an ankle on it.
I know there was some talk about you moving a little too laterally away on the backsides – ideally, as he develops his understanding, you move forward on that parallel path til you see him lock onto the entry wing… then you can peel away laterally to your next position. I think for now, you’ll be waiting til just about when he arrives at the entry wing, but eventually it will be insanely early (in a good way) because he is already showing lovely independence for getting to the backside AND jumping the bar. The BC and FC you did on the landing side already looked great. And he was happy to let you do the countermotion serp exits (the baby level warm up was easy for him – yo can add more motion to it by jogging and also release later, when you are a step or two past the exit wing :))
One question for you: on your serps, do you use an opposite arm as part of the serp cue? On the first bunch of backside reps, you had the opposite arm up but it might have been for holding the toy? He doesn’t need it to help support the line to the backside, so as long as you are connected for now, you don’t need the opposite arm as a serp arm – it is faster to run without it, and it help the threadle arm look very different in threadle situations.
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyMary, I am going to do my best to fit in the original MaxPuppers before we open it to the public 🙂 I am sure you will get the spots you want 🙂
Hi! He did really well here!
With the off leash game: for next steps, now try to have your hands empty as you take off the leash (I think you had a cookie in your hand here? If not, yay! And go to the next step). And then we will go to not wearing the pouches (leave them on the crate) – but the cookies can be in a pocket or something 🙂
For the pattern game with the clicker: he is doing well here! This game should be as verbally quiet as possible – just the clicker and the ‘get it’, no praise or name calls – because the goal is that we click/treat his choice to lift his head and ignore the smells. You can really see him starting to do it at about :20, where he lifts his head, considers going to the crate with the stinky treats… but chooses to look at you instead.YES!
Remember to toss the cookies here and not feed from you hands – the tossed treats create the pool of scent that we want as his distraction 🙂
When you reloaded treats from the bag to your hands, his focus got interrupted a little. You can move to a new spot and restart the game in that moment. But if he takes a moment to lift his head, stay very quiet and do’t help 🙂 He was taking a couple of extra seconds at the end and you were calling and helping him, but we want him to make the choice. The tossed cookies create the pool of distraction scent so he might need an extra second or two, which is fine – stay totally still and quiet 🙂 When he engages? Click/treat! If he cannot engage after about 10 seconds? Move to a new spot and reset the game, no worries.
In the first part of this video, he was alsmot at the point where he was not distracted at all – when he does not take his eyes off you, you can start walking back and forth while playing rather than standing still.
Great job! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi!
>> I am sorry to be the difficult student here
Ha! You are not being difficult at all!
>>The first round she actually perked up and left the start line with great drive (one obstacle and reward). Typical Tango though, the second rep (different and less stressful obstacle), she turned her head. This is why I quit doing it along the way in our trialing several years ago. I confess to being frustrated, not with her, but with the very typical I can use it once or maybe even a few times and then it doesn’t work any more. Any thoughts or feed back? She got a HUGE reward/party after our first rep today, so there is no reason other than memory that she would turn away on the second rep. Hmmmm.>>
My guess is that the first rep shifts internal state in a good way and then after it has shifted, by doing it again the game comes across as pressure perhaps? IT sounds like something in the classical/reflexive realm and not in the operant realm – because the big reward would theoretically build behavior if it was just an operant training issue.
It also might strip away a layer and give us some insight into her feelings about pressure in that internal state. Interesting! So we can fight fire with fire 🙂 and just condition it to change the conditioned response: play a tiny slice of it, away from a jump, throw a cookie or her ball – no real stay behavior or release, just the body posture or breathing (and just a little bit of it).
While you may never decide to take this game to the start line, it *does* provide a great way to turn on the internal state that she struggles with and, in tiny slices, pair it with amazing things. I use these games in training for dogs that will never see them in the ring, as a way to help them modulate their internal states (Contraband, I am looking at YOU! HA!) The more I watch dogs in action, the more I think it is really about the classical conditioning and not as much about the operant conditioning or trained behaviors. Fascinating but also super challenging.
Let me know what you think!
TracyThat’s fine for now – anything that isn’t sniffing is rewardable 🙂 eventually we won’t have cookies in your hands 🙂
Hi!
Only 7 more full times days?!?!? The countdown is ON!!!!!!!Good reps here! She was balanced and made good striding decisions. She dropped bar 1 on the 4th rep – I think she was tryingto go fast but then saw the interval between 2 and 3 was smaller so dropped her back feet a bit – no worries at all. She recovered and had a great rep 5
She was balanced and making good decisions here, so for the next time you do this grid: Use the dragging toy 🙂 That will challenge her to stay balanced in the 5 foot ‘compression’ distance and open up more as the 3rd jump gets further away 🙂
Great job! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi!
>>I didn’t want to drop her name as I still try to do the name call when I want a tighter turn out of the tunnel and the straight exit with no verbal from me. This should sort once we get outside as you say.>>
The name call is fine… except it is done before she enters so you can be using the next verbal when she exits 🙂 And I will try to talk you into directionals for the exits rather than just name or silence 🙂 Tunnel exits have gotten complicated, so the directionals really help.
>>I looked to see if I could find Jordan’s running contact stuff. it doesn’t seem to be on the CR website anymore and I couldn’t find anything on her website. Brigitte suggested Justine Davenport and Kirsten o’neill’s but neither of them have any courses up right now or even enough to evaluate if I would want to do one or the other.>>
You can find Jordan’s here:
https://www.argusranch.com/online-classesAnd the other person I was thinking of is Katarina Podlipnik:
>>It has always struck me that running contacts are harder on the dogs from a training perspective but that hard stop ot the bottom of the AF for the 2o2o also concerns me just from wear and tear over time.>>
The real damage on the a-frame is the slam on the way up and the hyper-extension over the top, particularly on the running frames. A nicely trained 2o2o has no slam because there is a weight shift to the dog’s hind end and very few reps needed on the full contact to train and maintain it. (Bear in mind that I have running a-frames on all of my dogs at this point right now, so I am hyper careful about training).
>>Any chance you are going to do something contact wise for a course?? I def want to teach a Running AF (and likely also the 2o2o AF), the RDW is debatable.>>
The teeter class is in independent study and I might teach it again live in the fall, but no other plans for contact training classes at the moment – simply not enough hours in the day.
>>I have started shaping Beka into a 2o2o position on the travel plank. My debates have been a target (like you use it no need to nose touch it) and with shaping the 2o2o is it going to be harder to get her to simply stand on the travel plank for things like conditioning exercises that use the travel plank.>>
In my experience: The target is the easiest, fastest way to train it independently and you don’t need to do the nose touches 🙂 Shaping it doesn’t give the dog a focal point and it tends to make the dog more handler dependent (watching the handler more) and more upright (slower and less weight shift).
>>I had the same question here as I was wondering about for the wrap verbal proofing – what is the balance on this? yes, front of the jump (and likely to the tunnel) but is it a threadle to pull them off the backside line since they can see it, and if so which threadle would it be? it’s not a real thredle since they aren’t crossing the plane of the jump to get there. A verbal like their name to do do same? Post turn after the wing jump?>>
There are several balance elements in the advanced level of this game – a FC or BC on the landing side to the tunnel, or a backside circle wrap, or one of the contermotion serpentine exits. Those are challenging. No front side balance needed on this one, it is simply a distraction as is the tunnel entry.
She did really well with the backsides! You were able to move up the line towards the center of the bar, which is great independence already. You can add more of your motion now so you are jogging and then running! As you add this, and especially as you add the advanced level games. always drop the reward near the landing spot – no tugging from your hands – so she looks for the bar and not for your hands.
One other small detail – on the start wing, I would use a wrap verbal not the left soft turns cue. If you picture her going over a bar parallel to the backside bar as she approaches the wing, it is a wrap exit (coming back around the wing immediately) not a soft turn exit.
She did really well with the initial steps of the countermotion exits too!!
>>then she got into not releasing on the ok>>
Looking at it to figure ou why she didn’t want to break, I think it was probably because you were looking directly at her while facing forward for the countermotion, so she was likely thinking she should not go behind you.
It was not an issue when you were on the landing side, but being on the takeoff side with you facing forward and looking at her was really hard. So when you release, turn your head and point your hand to the landing spot, so you shift your connection from her eyes to the landing spot (make it obvious and exaggerated) That should help!
On the grid:
Overall she made good decisions! She has a bit of trouble organizing her takeoff on the very first rep, and then yes had the interesting footwork at :32 🙂 I think there was a lot going on visually in terms of the white bump and the multi-color mats and the black mat there, so I am guessing she just didn’t know what to do with her feet with all of that visual distraction (dogs definitely have trouble sorting that ou). So my first suggestion is to move the black mats and color mats so her footing is the same color throughout so the visual is easier to ‘read’.>.Wonderring if I should considerr switching to a jump bar at 6″ or stick with the bumps? Bump isn’t quite 4″ high and seems to be promoting a running approach to things versus a jumping approach.>>
For jump 3? You can do that, locking in a bar at 4″ over the bump – not sure it will help or not, but worth a try! I think that is secondary to changing the visual with the 3 different color surfaces though. I am not too concerned about the other movement – it is jump-like enough and definitely not trotting, so it is working! I am putting in a request to mother nature to hurry up and send you good weather, because this really needs to go outside LOL! We have been patient, it is practically May, so it is time for Mother Nature to cooperate 🙂 Doing this on grass will really allow us to make adjustments because she will have much better grip and easier visuals.
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi Marie!
>>If we are interested in a live seminar but the date conflicts with something else we do, do we simply select either of the Sunday dates or weeknight option listed and you will post other options? Or do we select one of those options and then send you weeknights that we would be available? I didn’t see a place to specify details.>>
Yes, click on a corresponding sunday or weeknight. If those don’t work either, let me know – I will be emailing everyone soon about it.
>>Also, I didn’t see where we send payment for the live seminars. Will that be like an invoice or something we get later?>>
yes – once the spots are sorted, we will invoice everyone 🙂
Tracy
You can see who else is traveling to trials or seminars, and hook up with them! Fever is on a roll, so it would be fun to keep working on his skills 🙂
Hi!
In thinking about it, I also use the pattern games to teach the dogs to ignore food scent on the ground: in a non-stinky place, toss a treat on the ground. When he eats it and looks back at you – click that moment of looking at you and toss a treat a different location.
Start it in the house to establish the skill.. then move it to the grass! Use big non-crumbly treats to start with so he can gobble it up fast and return engagement to you immediately (a clicker can be useful!)
And then when he whips his eyes back to you and his nose away from scent on the ground… then we can put it back into the game here, with the treats tossed on the ground near your feet. You’ll see that in just a few sessions, the tossed treat/pattern game becomes a cue to engage!
Tracy
