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Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterGood morning!
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Can try but this is something I have never been good at picking up on, I am usually paying attention to their head for where they are looking.>>Lead changes are indeed hard to see – is you see her migrating out towards the jump even if she is looking at your like you ar elute – reward that 🙂 The straight line to you is very straight, so the migration out to the jump after the get out cue is easier to see by comparison.
Lap turn video: Nice shirt! Lol! I am wearing that same on right now too 🙂
These are going well, she really is getting the hang of them! She didn’t have any trouble when you added more speed and when you added the toy, she read them all really well.
One little detail: think you are stepping your leg back too soon which might be making it a little harder: remember the 3 inch rule – hold your lap turn arm out and keep your feet together and stationary until she has come to 3 inches form your hand then you can step back – when the leg moves too soon, she doesn’t drive in as hard and gets a little sticky on the left turns.
Tandems – she did well here too1 Using the inside arm works well – it is handler’s choice as long as it feels comfy and you can keep moving while showing the cue. I am doing a big happy dance about how well she read all of the various cues here )wrap, tandem, etc). GOOD GIRL! And you cued them clearly – click/treat for you!
As you add speed, keep your feet as forward as possible so you don’t end up running sideways. I think it will make more sense to your feet when you get this skill onto bigger courses.
Overall, you might have felt rusty, but the skill is still there and you looked great.
>>Question – Since you mentioned in the video the likely verbal for these would be the threadle command (I think), do you use different verbals depending on the exit line? eg/ 360deg circle vs serp exit (think german type turn) vs simple turn back towards where they came from.>>
Yes, I do have different verbals 🙂 I have 4 backside verbals – 2 for pushing to the back, (when I am coming from the landing side) and 2 from the threadles, when I am on takeoff side.
Basically, they have to do with which wing the dog exits towards – if the dog enters on one wing and exits on the other, I consider it a s slice so I use “back” for when I am on landing side to start, and “close” for when I am takeoff side (2 different words for 2 different behaviors).When the dog enters on one wing and exits on that same wing, such as the 360s or threadle wraps: I use ‘dig’ for when I am on the landing side and ‘in in’ when I am on the takeoff side.
I know there is a middle ground/grey area where the dog might exit on the middle of the bar. For me, I put that into the ‘exit on the other wing’ category because the collection is similar to the slice exits. For the enter/exit on the same wing, those lines have a LOT of collection and I want the dog very close to the wing on the exit line. That seems pretty clear for the dogs and I really don’t want to add more and more verbals for the grey areas in between 🙂
>>And of course we are possibly getting another Colorado low coming through in the next few days, so depending on the temps will either be snow or rain.
UGH! The winter that never ends,
>>Wanted to check on how long we will have to post videos for the course?
I have to double check when I get home tomorrow, but I believe it is late May – I hav the date posted somewhere, just need to find it 🙂
Great job here!!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterGood morning!
>>like the Pop cue for all the reasons you mention. I have learned to really lower my criteria for this behavior, I hope that’s ok? >>
Yes, totally ok – successive approximations for the win! You can reinforce smaller slices of the behavior and you’ll also get a barometer of how she feels in the environment. Plus, there will be a lot of reinforcement which ends up pairing food into the environment which builds a positive conditioned emotional response. All wins!
The cookie-free pop game is going well , especially in a challenging environment! Good timing of waiting for her to engage! She seems a little better on your left than on your right (in terms of latency and quality of behavior) so keep putting value in on your right by doing this for treats in your hand, then we can fade them back out
Instant focus kryptonite –
She did well with the instant focus part, got right to work! After one or two instant focus rewards… move the game to a new spot or play a different game because the instant focus at that point no longer has the element of immediately ignoring the environment.
>>then food she would need to run by. But my reset cookies (working alone) to get her to run by was not the best idea.>>
This was at 2:04, and the food was too close, close enough that she thought it was a legit reinforcement – the cookie you put down was on her line back to the game so I am not sure how she was supposed to know it was not in play! I don’t think there is enough stimulus control with cookies on the floor that you have placed there (I am sure she saw you place it, dogs see everything LOL!). Pus, because there were lots of reset cookies being tossed all over, it is possible she just thought it was a reset cookie.
So, since scent pools are a kryptonite, change the structure of the session.
One thing to consider as you work through scent distractions is to bring all reinforcement into your hands or down on your shoes (pattern game) to use placement of reinforcement to build more engagement in the presence of the big distractions (rather than toss food into the environment where it creates more scent, so she is working against 3 or 4 or 5 pools of scent rather than one).
>>“easily controlled” food distractions –>>
I would definitely start with controlling the environment. It can be a food container, or behind a fence or open – she can see it and smell it, but can’t actually eat it. Then it can be closer and closer when you have established success. Cookie on the floor right near her didn’t have enough environment control so she ate it (I wouldn’t even call it a failure because she thought it was correct LOL!)
>>What do you think of having a couple of foot targets / platforms to recall her back and forth (reward from hand) with crumbs on the floor X feet off the line between platforms? >>
You can… but the platforms aren’t as much about engaging with you, and I want to lean into the engagement games 🙂 The instant focus is an exception to this because it challenges he dogs to limit their assessment of the environment and get right to work for 1 or 2 reps – but all the other games are engagement games.
But definitely have the food further away and in a controlled environment. Crumbs can easily be eaten, so behind a fence or in a crate or something where she can learn the parameters of the engagement games.
Nice work! Let me know what you think!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterI took a quick look – there are so many ayers happening here that I don’t think we can make a black and white thing. Yes, she is barking for the toy, because she had never really been asked to have impulse control on that toy. But also she was avoiding the person walking up behind you (note how she scooted away right at the beginning with a dropped tail) and you were asking her to run up a plank directly to a stranger… and she is worried about strangers. Then she sniffed and avoided as you tried to get her to do it. So the barking was a whole jumble of things and it is not as simple barking for the toy, due to the underlying anxiety. The value of the toy helped because she basically had limited choices at that point. So you got the teeter but I am not sure how it affected the underlying anxiety or frustration.
Soo – I think the toy is usable but there are many layer to training the impulse control as you are doing, and also being sure that you do not rely on the toy as the only reinforcement. Save it for those fight-fire-with-fire moments. Regular classes with no distractions don’t need it 🙂 Save it for the big distraction moments! And be sure that you think about how she feels about the distraction each time you present one – leaving her in a stay to run up the teeter to you would have been a lot easier (and accomplished the same drive-to-the-end teeter goal) rather than running to a stranger.
Let me know what you think!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterShe definitely likes something in her mouth! Question – does the other dog calm her and reduce/prevent the anxiety, kind of like a stable pony? If ys, then it is ok to have both dogs. If not, and the other dog is just a neutral presence… walk Posh in by herself so you have your hands free to do training as needed. If your hands are full with leashes, then you will not be able to help Posh when she needs it – carrying something is great but she still might find herself in a situation where she needs a pattern game or your full attention, so have a free hand will really help.
Tracy
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterThey all build on each other, so you will find the games fit together like puzzle pieces 🙂
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterGood morning!
>>The good thing is that I am much less likely to get flustered or annoyed by something that happens before the run because we now have tools!
This is great! The more tools we have, the easier we can make thing for you and Grady.
>> Ihad this vision of the leash runner picking up his leash and running away as I was doing a lead out, so I made sure to ask her if she would wait until my dog left the start line to pick up the leash🤣>>
Based on the tiny bit that I saw in the video – good call, the leash runner had as much energy as I do after 5 cups of coffee haha!
I>> have a trial in Blue Springs with a couple of FEO opportunities this weekend. At this point, his fuzzy blue treat pouch is probably the best toy for tugging, but he is generally less likely to tug in the ring. He is getting better at tugging in the ring during practice, so maybe that will transfer to the trial ring. He will at least be excited to see the treat pouch! >
Perfect – even just having it visible might help him! Lots of FEO runs will help get him relaxed in the environment. Just be sure it is totally empty of crumbs LOL
>> make tug toys, so I am always searching for his favorite toy. When I finish one, I toss them on the floor and he will carry them all to the living room and will usually pick out a favorite to tug with. I think I need to make it more of a priority to engage him in tugging…the latest tug that he liked, I put back with his stash and someone grabbed it to purchase>>
YEs – he already likes some tugging so you can build it up! Make it special, new toys, just a little bit of tugging or carrying or throwing, anything he likes. Tugs are the easiest way to do FEO runs, so if he likes a toy then you will have an easier transition.
>>I need to revisit engaged chill…
Yes, that will be a great addition to the toolbox so you both can relax outside the ring rather than stay busy or try to time things perfectly.
Keep me posted!
Tracy
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterGood morning! Hope you got some sleep!
>>He gave a gingerly touch and not his usual plow full speed into my hand but was able to move on. He’s had a few singing sessions so I was able to interrupt with a cookie toss.
That softer touch is normal in the face of big distractions – I am glad he was able to do it and move on!!!
All of the class runs looked great – you were really able to just focus on handling and teaching him agility skills (like the tunnel under the dog walk, the pinwheel, etc). It looks like you did not have to struggle with focus at all. -this is exciting!
Run 1 was really god – he seemed to have total focus and all you needed. To do was train on the course challenges.
Run 2 lalso really good – he was very stimulated during the line up with the leash runner and he had trouble staying. I was wondering if maybe he just didn’t have a long stay… but he had a nice long stay without the leash runner for run 3, so that is good to know! Either he was too pumped up to stay, or the presence of the leash runner was causing him to not quite be able to stay. So definitely keep along your classmates and instructors to be leash runners, so eh can get lots of rewards for stays when they are there.I noticed that he stayed engaged during discussion with your instructor and got right back to work – wow! That is great!
3rd run – yes, something did catch his eye but great job moving through it, he did well!
He had a good stay here without the leash runner – so at the NFC runs you will want to not ask for a stay if there are people right near him (and there probably will be :))
The tricks looked really good too – and he was really focused as the person came to the crate to get the other dog! A transition game you can play is to do some tricks like this, then take off the treat pouch and put it down on the reward station , then move away doing some more tricks as if you are moving to the line
>>This was good practice for his upcoming UKI runs on Sunday. He was really focused on me coming out of the crate.
I think he has a lot of tools now that you can bring to the trial. What did you enter? We can make a plan for the weekend to set him up for success 🙂
Great job!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterEngagement Viagra: Whatever Works To Get It Up.
😂🤣Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
A midweek trial – so fun!yes, he needs more experience in the Just Like Home phase of the not for comp trial runs so he gets very relaxed and happy in the ring, at which point you can go to the Empty Hands (ball in pocket) stage. It takes a while to ease dogs into competition happily 🙂 And yes, running not for comp is very relaxing for the handler, which helps both handler AND dog 🙂
Keep me posted!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
>> Here is a toy someone told me not to use anymore. It seriously dials her up and can take her brain to that place of being ‘possessed’>>
Why did the person suggest not using it? Was Posh unable to give it back in a training situation, and/or was she so tuned in to it that she was unable to perform other behaviors in the presence of the toy?
She was good here but it is a very structured session, which is probably very different than what the other person saw 🙂
>>It makes the world go away, overrides bunny poo and people. I can put it in my pocket. And even though it can dial her up to the max it can also appease her….she calmly chews on it laying on her belly with the world walking around her, it can chill her.>>
So it is the highest value reinforcement that you can carry. This can be useful! I personally like to recognize those super high value reinforcement and figure out ways to use them.
>>My goal would be remote reinforcement with this toy by itself on the ground. But now I have to secure it in a jar, in her purple chair and she really doesn’t want to leave it. If it’s by itself in the chair she will steal it.>>
Alright then, that tells us where to start: with the remote reinforcement games. Go all the way back to taking one step away, starting from the very beginning.
>>As you can see, she will wrap her paws around my hand when I ask her to release. When working on this without treats, she will stay like this for minutes, while I wait her out to put her paws on the ground.>>
Try to keep the sessions with this toy to very short sessions so she doesn’t get over-stimulated by the toy. And for now – have food available for trading in ALL sessions with this toy so you can have the smooth transitions in and out of the toy play. The food will probably also help moderate the arousal. We don’t want to get into a position of her being locked onto the toy and unable to let go for several minutes – short sessions with food will help avoid that.
Let me know what you think!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
Good start to these!
>> And I pulled out the ‘Chlorine Bobber’ from the pool, which turned out to be too much. She LOVES to swim and has been wanting to ‘get’ this bobber for awhile. After videoing I threw it back into the pool, and she was beside herself wanting to go in and get it. Her brain goes to a different place when something like this happens, possessed, then need to reset and get the item out of her sight.>>
This is a great example of Kryptonite that is useful and not scary 🙂
>> So, if I understand the lesson right, we are supposed to wait for them to engage/orient to us?>>
Yes, you are correct and did a great job with that. Yay!
On the cookie-free pattern games: she was able to be very engaged even with the distractions! Nice! For the specifics of the pattern games, 2 things that will help her translate these into games where she should immediately offer engagement:
– stick to just one behavior, like a spin, rather than do all sorts of stuff for now
– be more calm as you do it, you can be less excited 🙂 I know that sounds weird, but we want Posh to be able to re-engage and stay engaged even without you being as exciting about it 🙂So as she enters the environment, cue the trick then wait. If she re-engages (or stays engaged) you can cue it again, and wait 🙂 Then after 2 or 3, you can run back to the reward.
And to add more to it – do it while you are walking from Point A to Point B, as if walking from the ring gate to the start line, if that makes sense. That way you are not staying in any one place for too long, you are moving the whole time now.
She did pretty well with the distractions but she had high latency with the engagement (meaning it took her a pretty long time to re-engage). So reduce the challenge – have one easier distraction there, and have it a little further away, until her re-engagement is immediate. When you have that, you can add in more distraction to the game.
Great job! Let me know what you think!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi!
Non-scary things can be anything that draws her attention and gets her excited:
Other dogs running, animal poo, the pool, the bobber in the pool, someone else throwing a ball, leaves/grass, etc. Anything she loves loves loves that gets her wild but isn’t scary 🙂T
Tracy Sklenar
KeymasterGood morning!
Yes, I thought it was interesting that the right turns were the harder ones on the turn aways but dogs do keep us on our toes like that LOL!!!
The Mission Transition games are going well. I see a distinct change in her movement when you cue the go versus the collection!
Part of the game is working out the timing – on the very first decel, I think she was expecting another Go rep so she didn’t process the cue til after she landed. Oopsie! But then 2nd and 3rd decels were really good, you were nice and early! You can rotate away sooner: for example, at :20 and 1:05 the decel was good and then you faced forward a little longer than needed. As soon as she is passing the 2nd cone and approaching the jump, you can turn and leave and have her chase you for the reward.On the other side, you were putting a little more pressure in towards the bar – at :44 there was pressure to the center of the bar when you deceled and rotated in one movement, so she read it (correctly) as rear cross – the physical cue said turn away and the verbal didn’t override that yet. You were clearer with keeping the decel and rotation separate after that and she was great!
What happened at :52? Ankle roll? OUCHIE!!!
She was definitely sorting out the mechanics of the wrap, so one thing that I think will help is to NOT do any GO balance reps for now. I think she really loves the go go go 🙂 so it is possible that the intermittent Go cues were causing the delay in processing the wraps.
She might have been waiting/hoping for the go cue then a little late doing the wrap mechanics. So, for now, only do wraps for a session or two. The GO looks great so we don’t have to worry about it, we will add it back in soon – the wraps look good but then can look gooder LOL! She can engage her hind end more and sooner.>> But, little Miss Sprite is starting to like running. She’s still taking off VERY early and not really adding in a collection stride. >>
She was totally changing her striding!
>> It all goes so fast and you make it look easy.>>
It DOES happen fast and I think you were starting early enough on most of them.
One thing to remember is that she is going to look different than the video demo dog for this one: I chose a demo dog that is lighter in color, has no long coat (easy to see all those legs) and who is very dramatic in his collection so it is easy to see. It is harder to see on dogs who have coat and aren’t a giant spaghetti noodle like whippets are LOL!
She is taking off further back for the Go reps, so it will be interesting to see what she does as the bars come up for both the Go and the wraps. Nothing worrisome is happening, we are just watching her mechanics percolate and helping her wherever she needs any info or help. She is about 14 months old now, right? So do the next session on wraps only, starting with the same bar height here then raise it up for a rep or two by 2 inches and we will see how she does.
Nice work! Let me know what you think!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi! This was a really good exploratory session to see what she responds to best, how to cue it , etc. You are totally on the right track!
>>if she is on my right and already turning tightly to her right to follow me from the reward station (yay!) and I cue a “left” she’s got to overcome that inertia, and while possible it felt like my verbal overriding the motion was asking a lot for what is supposed to be a confidence building game – although we did sort of get there?>>
I think the hard part here is that the left/right spins are not on a verbal-only cue for her at this point, she still needs a hand signal especially if you are walking. And if the hand signal was too high she had trouble doing the spin. So, you can work these as tricks to get them more easy to cue, and on a hand cue with a lower hand.
You can put your hand at nose-level for her to do it so it is a pretty automatic response – the more automatic the response, the more useful it is for pattern games 🙂
And the left spin then right spin can be separated by several steps. So if yo cue the spin to the right, go straight for a few more steps (she is offering engagement during this time) then cue the next spin. She should not go directly from a right to a left without a few engaged steps in between so it should be easy enough to do. That will also help prevent the leash from being tangled 🙂
Also let her swallow the cookie before you move away and cue a spin, that will help her have an easier time too 🙂
She was letting you scratch her but it was not really engaging, she wasn’t moving into you for more.
Speaking of that automatic response that we want: The pop move has a TON of potential for the pattern game because it doesn’t need as much of a physical cue – she is great at responding to it! The leash won’t get tangled either 🙂 So you might want to try the pop move for this too!
Great job!! Let me know what you think!
TracyTracy Sklenar
KeymasterHi! This is looking good! Each element of each game is looking really sharp!
Her instant focus in the grass looked great, it seemed easy for her.
Instant focus by the pool – much harder 🙂 POOL!!! LOL! You can reward that first approximation at :40 because she interacted with it even though it was not a perfect hit. That will help her be able to do it everywhere.
You can take this one on the road – what else is on her calendar where you can play this game?Line ups and the leash off game also looked great 🙂 I think you can play those in the remote reinforcement combo game now, as well as in front of any kryptonite you can find 🙂
Great job! Let me know what you think!
Tracy -
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