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Hi!
I have 4 backside verbals for the dogs – 2 are for when I am on the landing side, 2 for when I am on the takeoff side (backside threadles). They all involve telling the dog which wing to exit on.
When I am on the landing side of the jump when the cue starts (I am in motion so might not end up on the landing side when the dog exits LOL!):
“Back” means enter on one wing, exit towards the other. This covers slices like German turns, serps, and most crosses after the dog lands.
“Dig” means enter on one wing and exit on that same wing: it covers the reverse wrap and very collected crosses right on the entry wing that are very close to the reward wrap.
Anything in the middle of that is a back verbal, because I save the dig verbal for the big collection moments and exits very near the entry wing.
“Close” is the same as back on terms of enter on one wing and exit on the other, except I am on the takeoff side (backside threadle slice). “In” is same as dig in terms of enter and exit on the same wing, very collected, with me on the takeoff side.
And I repeat them all: backbackbackback for example.
>>But, what about a rounded backside turn that comes back down the same starting line like a u turn? Or backside to FC?
If I am on the landing side and it is not a very tight exit, it is a back verbal for me.
She did really well on the video here!!!! Yay!
For the Go lines, I think placing your toy will help because you can get it further from the jump (rather than throwing it, where it tends to land close). Having it further from the jump help her stay in extension more.The rear crosses are going well – this is a hard skill and she did a great job! You were starting to get really comfy getting on the RC line after about :32. She had an error at :41 when you changed sides, but that might be more about having just gotten a whole lot of reinforcement turning to her right, then surprise, left turn cue LOL!
She was grat on the next rep, though, at :48On thing I notice is that she does a lot better when you repeat your verbals. Instead of just one short blast (LEFT!) she does better when it is left left left – she has more time to process it, plus is sounds different. So keep repeating the verbals 🙂
The backside wraps are also looking good! Two little details – be sure to show her the wing by moving to where the wing meets the bar (like at 1:26). And then be a little more patient, hold that position for an extra heartbeat til she is all the way past you and is turning to the bar, then you can move through. At 1:17 you were blocking her line a bit and at 1:34 you were on she was not quite past you enough so your motion forward pushed her off the jump. At 1:26 and 1:44 you were great about showing the wing AND being a little patient so she could get past you to set up the turn.
And to help solidify the commitment,, you can also change the placement of reinforcement to help her commit as you move through – toss it to the landing side of the jump instead of deliver from your hand. That way she won’t rush to follow you, even if you move away too early or too quickly 🙂
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyGood morning!
>> We played Instant Focus with the keys….took just a few reps for him to remember the game in the new place and we were able to move it to several locations both inside and outside the ring and he did great! Not quite as fluent as on home turf but pretty close 🙂>>
Perfect! The difference in fluency and latency is always eye-opening. The Instant Focus props are so easy, yet the environment makes them so much more challenging. It helps me remember how challenging agility skills are for the dogs, particularly in new environments.
>>We also played with the first step of RR in the regular trial gate staging area, figured why not since we had the chance.
Brilliant! Great traniing opportunity! And the trial gate and ring probably has a conditioned response that is different than home turf, because very different things happen at AK9C.
>>Question…. (wish I had video) unlike at home when he engages he pretty much stays engaged for an additional step past the first engagement or he offers it quickly…one or two steps away from the food and he quickly engages. Today, he got very comfortable offering one or maybe even two steps away from the reward and towards the gate area (which is in a kinda scary/interesting corner). If I took an additional step he would disengage and look to see “the corner” but unlike in the past he wouldn’t “bolt” to check it all out, he’d stay with me but not looking at me. I didn’t take any more steps and at first he couldn’t reengage without help (I moved around in front of him), we only did this a few times and by the 3rd time he would break the engagement, look forward and if I waited he eventually looked back and we ran for cookies. I think I asked for more than he was ready for. We also have a “history” with this specific area. The way we’ve been dealing with it at trials is Pattern Game with food until we go in the gate and he’s able to acclimate to the area because of the food and the Pattern Game but as soon as the food is gone and we immediately go in the gate…well, that’s why we’re here>>
I think going into the pattern games is the right idea to get started. What is this history in that area? Is he able to get close to that corner while playing a pattern game, even just in training?
Then when you have some engagement, add in the Volume Dial game – you can use it to change his internal state to a higher state, which should help the distractions fade away.
>> I’ve come to say that “how much functioning brain we have is inversely proportional to how much tongue is hanging out” – In the crate his tongue is dragging on the floor, out of the crate on his mat it’s about 1/2 way back in his mouth. Thoughts?
It is possible that crating nearer to the ring along the back wall is just too stimulating. Can he crate upstairs for class? Mat work is useful, but he is working and not really relaxing. So can he chill on the mat and chew a bully stick or something? Ideally he would be crated someplace he can really power down and relax. If that is not a possibility, the mat work is next on the list – but hopefully in a way that he doesn’t need you to keep rewarding behavior. Let me know what the other options are for locations, or if you think he would be able to chew a bone in that environment.
Tracy
Good morning!
>>He tends to bark during runs when he gets frustrated with me or a sequence that is hard for him and he doesn’t get as much reinforcement as he thinks he deserves. He will stare at me and bark when I try to reset him.>>
He might be correct LOL!!! If there is an error in the sequence, it is usually a handling error, so you can totally use reset cookies or toys or bring him back and start again. I have found reset reinforcement has totally reduced frustration and barking in so many dogs. Also, if you are working a challenging skill (like a crazy threadle or layer or backside or something), I recommend the 2-failure rule: if he fails twice, break it down to be able to reinforce him. Also, I do use reset cookies after a failure. I will call the dog back, give him a cookie at my side and line up to try again. This keeps frustration at bay and gets the dog right back for the next rep… and it does NOT reinforcement the incorrect response. A total win-win moment!
The off leash offered engagement was perfect 🙂 SO EASY (the magic of establishing the behavior with food already in our hands LOL!)
So now – try it with food in your pockets! Or tug toy.
And, take the game to more stimulating places, especially agility class or training. You don’t have to do it in a formal session, you can do it each time you go to the warm up jump or the start line: leash off, reward that moment of engagement. You might find he is more pumped up in those situations, so you can totally reward if he vocalizes a little or dances around. But if he jumps up, or takes off – just put him back on leash and try it again.
Great job! Let me know what you think!
TracyGood morning!
The right turns into the serps at the beginning looked great, you were able to add a lot of speed already! Stay nice and close like you did at :19, and getting ahead was great!
One thing you can do here and also on the other side is to have the toy already placed on the exit line. On this first side, the toy placement is so he doesn’t look at you as much as he is over the bar.
And on the other side, the toy placement will help him find the line in general 🙂
The left turn on the wing to then turn right over the serp jump was much harder for him indeed! Great job making the angle of the jump much easier. He still wanted to run parallel to it, so placing the reward on the exit line (the exit line for when the jump is ‘flat’ like a true serp) will help him focus on the line and not run parallel to your motion. Great job slowing down your motion to help him get it, then adding more AND being able to angle the jump back to the serp position – super!!!!!For giggles – start with the harder side on the next session (with the jump angled to be easier than it was here when you ended the session) just to see if it is a coordination thing (side preference) or if he was stimulated and that was causing the running past.
Either way, he is doing really well! I think the placed toy will let you add even more motion. Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyGood morning!
The beginning was so funny – I was about to say that you were dong it backwards and then you caught yourself LOL!
She did really well here, your setup with the breakfast bowl was challenging but not mind-bending so she was having to think and she was also very successful. You can have more of an excited verbal party when she offers that engagement, it can be sillier and less formal after she looks at you.
She offered engagement on the cato board, so maybe don’t have that nearby because it appears she thought contact training was on tap 🙂
I am happy with this step of this game – you can reward that offered engagement when the leash comes off as many times as possible – in the house, in the yard, at classes, anywhere you can (BTW, all of these games are good to play with Dora too :))
For the fun run – how many runs will you be able to have? We can make a plan 🙂
>> Do you think I should take Char and practice this with treats in my pocket?
I think Char does really well with the toy in the ring, so we should use the toy in your pocket rather than introduce treats and then have to fade them. However, if she struggles or stresses at the fun run, you can totally incorporate food. And for the fun run, have a reward station set up even though she will also be getting rewarded in the ring.
>> If so, I know you told me to set her up before I take the leash off.
I don’t think she needs to be fully setup – just in the vicinity of the start jump. She looked a bit concerned when you took the leash off at the entry gate, perhaps not having enough clarity of where the start jump was was worrying to her. So you can walk in on leash, head to the start jump… and it remains to be seen whether you line up before hte leash comes off or take the leash off then line up. My guess is that you will want to get in front of jump 1, take the leash off, then after she offers engagement, line her up.
>>So if I set her up and take the leash off and she looks at me should i give her a treat?
Yes- but you don’t need to set her up, you can just get to the right spot then take the leash off… and if she engages: woohoo! Partytime with toy!
>> Or is this exercise better done with taking the leash off as soon as we enter the ring? >
I think she will prefer staying on leash while the two of you move to jump 1, then the leash coming off as part of the start process.
>>I feel her disengagement occurs right when we enter the ring but maybe that doesn’t matter as long as she re-engages when she’s in her start-line position? Sorry if I’m making this more complicated than it needs to be but I really want to get it right so it will help her.
These are all great questions, you are asking for specifics – and dogs LOVE specifics 🙂 Some of it remains to be decided but so far I think she will do best if you jog to jump 1 with her on leash (you can be talking to her) . It doesn’t really matter what she does in those couple of seconds as long as she is moving with you. Then when you get to jump 1, you stop moving, take the leash off – she offers engagement (and reward in the fun runs :)) and *then* you cue the start line position. So far, that is what seems like will work best for her based on what we have seen. Try it at the fun run with a toy hidden in your pocket, an we will get direct feedback from her about it 🙂
Let me know if that makes sense! Great job here!
TracyGood morning!
He is doing well with the serping with both games! For both, one small detail – stay a little closer to the serp jump, close enough to casually reach out and touch it. The pressure of a big fast dog coming at us tends to move us away but staying closer to it will help us get the 2nd bend on the serpentine line.On the Send-n-serp game – great job refreshing it and building it back up!! Be careful of your mechanics of stepping away after the send – try not to back up (it causes you to end up rotating, like at :33) – try try to send and then turn with his line (towards the camera) so you don’t get accidentally into a rotation and then he smokes you up the line 🙂
He was looking at you over the serp bar in the beginning, so I am glad you got the toy to the ground here. That helps direct his focus. And when you get way ahead, keep moving, resist temptation to decel to get him over the jump – it is a great challenge for him to find the serp jump even when you are passing the exit wing.
The proofing game is going well too! There is not a lot of room to be moving past the serp jump here, so staying close to it is good for now – you can add more motion into it but we don’t need a lot because we are really looking for the concept of taking the serp jump when asked rather than going into the tunnel 🙂
My only other suggestion is, on the threadle, keep your feet/lower body pointing the same way and moving on the same line as the serp, trying not to rotate. Your position was great relative to the entry wing, and that positional cue (plus the verbal and upper body) are what will help him differentiate. And since he has a really lovely stay, you can be showing the threadle arm before the verbal/release for the threadle, which will help cue him early so you can keep moving forward.
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyGood morning! Thank you for the updates!
>>Action Tricks: going very well in our training room. We can do everything rapidly with or without treats in my hands, but dance (she does a circle while standing up on her back legs) and leg weaving are slower without treats in my hand, for now.
Great! Keep working on the dancing and leg weaving, they are super useful in the trial environment.
>>Questions, on your video when treats are in your hands you toss them on the ground, when treats are in your pockets you deliver hand to mouth. I did it just this way, but are these mechanics significant?
I tend to toss treats on the ground for the pattern game or instant focus games (as a way to kind of send the dog back out into the environment to assess it) and reward from my hand for tricks. My general rule of thumb is that all games where I want to pump up the engagement involve reinforcement from my hands (tricks, volume dial, remote reinforcement, etc) Any games where I want the dog to offer engagement without me cuing it can be done with tossed treats.
>>Also, I am leery of teaching a dog that can bark excessively or barks at strangers to bark on command. I’m usually trying to get her to stop barking. 🤪
Understandable! But here is different way to look at it:
Barking at strangers is more of a reflex, directed outwards and away from you. Barking on cue is an operant trick, directed to you and playful.The reflex action is same as when the doctor taps that spot just below your kneecap to test the reflex: you will involuntarily kick your leg.
The operant behavior is when you choose to kick out your leg as a dance step. While there might be some similarities in the movement, the reason, function and use of the behaviors are entirely different.>>Pattern Games: going very well with food, in training room. I always start something in our inside room before moving outside. Moving on with toys, seems like I should start with lesser value toys?
Great news about the food! Take this pattern game to as many new environments as you can. And yes, add in toys – you can start with lower value toys, but also rehearse it with higher value toys because that is what you will use in more difficult distractions.
>>Instant Focus: again going very well in room. Used silicone beverage coaster which she had to touch with a front paw. Chaos went well, although she first wanted to get her stuffed large orangutan but left it for the coaster. Then when I added holee-rollers she went right for them. She brought the rollers to me and I made them ‘dead’. Then she went right for the coaster and was able to work just the coaster from then on.😎. If we were outside I think she may have grabbed the holee-roller and run a few victory laps with it. Which is why I start these games in our room.>>
For the distractions in the instant focus game, no need to use high value reinforcement as part of the ‘chaos’ 🙂 You can use random things, rather than the good toys. You can also take this on the road now, building tons of value for the coaster in different places and then moving into the Part 2 games posted on Monday.
>>Line up game: we’re trying between my legs. Went much better than I thought. I expected it to be too much pressure for her. But she loved the quick game a we’re up to ‘sit’.>>
Fun! I am glad she likes it 🙂 There is a lot of movement so that can be a fun trick to add to the toolbox 🙂
>>Remote Reinforcement: she can jump up on anything and reinforce herself, can even open the zipper on my backpack to get her toy. And she has! This has been our hardest thing.
This is good to know and plan for. Your reward station can be on a table and yes, you can put the stuff in containers. Also, work this on leash at home so you can control whether or not she can scoot away and grab things – part of the remote reinforcement game is developing the self-control to simply not go grab the reinforcement, even when it appears easy to grab 🙂 That self-control will bubble over into other aspects of life, including whether she barks at people or not.
>>What kind of treats are you using in the vids?
Mostly string cheese, some meatballs thrown in sometimes too.
>>Some people have said I shouldn’t use her highest value toys because they are a crutch for me and a pacifier for her. You’ve never seen us work, but your thoughts on this?>>
I like science, and there is no science to support crutch or pacifier 🙂 I look at things we can quantify: are we building the behavior? what behaviors are we seeing in different environments? what is her rate of success? If she has a low rate of success, or showing stress behavior – then we quite possibly need to go to a more valuable reinforcement so that we can compete the the stimuli in the environment. I am perfectly fine with you using high value reinforcement because you’ll make faster progress with more success. I am pretty sure you would be happy with faster progress 🙂 And since a big piece of the puzzle is being able to fade the reinforcement so it does not need to be in your hand, I am not worried about it being a crutch 🙂
Things are going well! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi!
Sometimes it is good to post the poopy sessions too 🙂 I think you were lumping: meaning, you went to a higher level of criteria too quickly, before all the earlier pieces were in place.The biggest thing missing here is building the understanding with you stationary and in position – you had a lot of motion on almost all of the reps, and he was pretty clear about telling us he didn’t understand it with you moving. So it is not a pressure thing – it was lumping which created too much failure. The next session should be with you standing still in the serp position – open shoulder, conection and release word cues the serp while closed shoulder and tunnel verbal cues the tunnel.
>>He didn’t want to jump towards the tunnel at all, especially with my just standing there.>>
I think part of this was lack of clarity about the reinforcement. Dropping a tiny treat then walking away from him is pretty unclear (like at :50). So from now on, use a toy or the stuffed lotus ball, plus markers to indicate them and most of all – stay engaged. The moment when you drop a cookie is not the end of the rep, so you can’t move away and do something else. The end of the rep is after he has gotten the reinforcement and after you’ve engaged with him, so don’t forget that critical piece. Using only toys and the lotus ball will help you remember – you have a habit of dropping a little treat then walking away, which breaks engagement. Sure, he will eat the treat when nothing else is out there but when it is near the tunnel, he was really unsure of where to look or go.
>>Do I continue to move through so that I’m not standing in all the clutter?>>
Nope! You build the value with you standing still, lots of success, and high value engaged reinforcement. That will all bring clarity to the game and he will be great!
Let me know what you think!
TracyHi!
I think he did well here too! He seemed to be able to read the difference between the Go, the RC, and the backside wrap really well. You had a bit of that ‘L’ line (swinging out) at :10 but then you got much better at getting on the rear cross line, like at :29! Nice!>>Let me know what I need to do to help him understand better.
Verbals! You used GO GO GO for both the go straight AND the rear crosses. The straight line and the rear cross are two different behaviors, so he was ignoring the verbal (same verbal for 2 behaviors is confusing) and waiting for the physical cue. The Go verbal is only for the straight line, not the rear cross. And a left or right verbal should be used with the rear cross, because it is a turn. And as you are using the verbals, keep moving – at :40 you were standing still for too long so he was not sure if he had permission to accelerate.
For the backside wrap at the end – his commitment looked really good here too! Be sure that you run to where the wing meets the bar so he can see the wing (you were blocking it a little) and then as soon as he is past you, move forward again so you are not in his landing spot when he is jumping.
Great job!
TracyHi!
He did well here too! As you work these longer stays – make sure you release the stay (it wasn’t very clear in the beginning of the video) and reward the stay a lot.
You were on the correct side here – you can be on the same side or opposite side of the dog, it all gets mixed in so you work all the scenarios. And yes – pushing and pulling with big obvious arm movements really worked nicely! It is a challenging game, so re-visit it a few times before you make it harder by bringing the wings closer together.
Nice job!!
TracyGood morning!
The Find The Jump game looked great here! I couldn’t see that reinforcement so I am guessing it was thrown out ahead or pre-placed? If it was already placed, move to throwing it as soon as he looks at the jump (and way before he gets to it) so he doesn’t rely on the placed toy.
You can now add in driving ahead to the jump, by running in closer to the tunnel so he can drive ahead of you as he exits.
Great job!
TracyHi!
>>Curious for the take a breath why watch the nose versus watching the rib cage expanding contract or feeling?
GREAT question!!! Watching the nose will give you the feedback on whether the dog is taking a breath on cue, as part of a grounding exercises (canine mindfulness :)). That is very different than simply watching for or feeling respiration (rib cage) because respiration might just be panting and not mindful. Also, respiration might be open-mouthed and reflexive… and taking a breath through the nose is operant and deliberate 🙂
The off leash offered engagement is going well! Very clever to have him on the green long line outdoors.
At the beginning of that, you don’t need to wait for him to offer engagement with the leash on – you can unhook the leash like you did and see what he does. Doing that with deer out there is HARD but he did well!
:33 nice engagement!In that outdoor space, there are a ton of good distractions – totally a great place to do the pattern games too, and right as I was typing to suggest that, you starting doing them. SUPER! Be insanely patient – don’t put your hand in your pocket until after he offers engagement.
>> it they eat the cookie on the ground but then something in the environment is distracting or needs assessing so they look away instead of back at you I’m assuming you just wait that out?
Yes, wait for a while… and if it is simply too difficult of an environment, you can move further away.
>>I also planning to take higher value food outside to play again sorry I had measured out his favorite kibble so I use that because believe it or not he needs to lose a couple pounds. When I’ll play again I’ll make sure to incorporate for the extra calories ha ha.>>
Ah yes, higher value will help too! Kibble, even the favorite kibble, can’t compete with the environment… but maybe meatballs can? Play around with different values and see how he does!
Great job here 🙂 Let me know what you think!
TracyHi!
>> I keep switching out the IF prop because I am waiting to see where we go with it. 🙂
The new gams are posted – so put value onto your favorite prop and use that for the Part 2 games 🙂
>>I am using the metal tins for the pattern game because I don’t like when people throw treats on the ground.
Ah, got it. So for the pattern games, then, do more of an up-and-down with treats placed on your shoes and not tossed away (which is something that can easily be done outside the ring).
>>Also, when we are outside, he has a harder time finding the small treats in the grass.
I train this skill, specifically: find the one treat in the grass and then re-engage. it is the first thing I train, pre-pattern games 🙂 Small, white treats work well and being able to find a treat in grass on cue and then immediately return to engagement after the cookie is a really useful skill!
>> The tins make it easier. Third, we trial on dirt and can’t throw food, so I thought the tins might be a nice visual cue for the game in new environments. What do you think? It’s basically a small space version of CU Super Bowls. I can modify it if you think my version isn’t as good.>>
The tins are good and the game is good! All CU games are fabulous 🙂 Totally recommend. But for all of the movement involved with waiting outside the ring and going to the start line, definitely focus on the patterns that can be done with no props – just your hands (and shoes haha) and him 🙂 Since there always seems to be such a huge list of things to train, I try to narrow the scope and prioritize.
>>I am worried that all this activity is going to feel like pressure to him.
It should not be perceived as pressure if it is structured training: high rate of reinforcement, high value reinforcement, very systematic and the games mixed in together to include both the active games, the engagement games, and the chill games 🙂 If the training emphasizes too much of one thing, or the rate of reinforcement is too low… then yes, he could perceive pressure or stress about it. That is why for the remote reinforcement, for example, the new step for this week is step away from the reward station, do one trick, run back. Simple and fun!
>> Coming out of his crate to a pattern game, in theory, should give him the opportunity to assess the environment. But it also feels like more of a requirement (play this game!) as opposed to, say, an awareness walk around the area.>>
A couple of thoughts on this:
I don’t bring the dogs out of the crate to a pattern game on a regular basis, unless the crate is literally in the training environment and I would like the dog to train. I also personally don’t crate in the training environment (ringside) a lot, because I need the dogs to be able to relax.So, I take the dogs out of the crate, go for a potty, have a walkabout away from the training area. Then as I enter the training area, I will begin the pattern game. And, pattern games are super enjoyable for the dog, so you’ll see the dog turn on when you start them. If the dog feels like the pattern game is a requirement, then chances are the rate of reinforcement is too low or you are too close to the distractions.
Awareness walks can be useful but also problematic. Most awareness walks are done pretty far from the training area or ring area. Or, if done near the ring area, the dog might not be using or rehearsing the coping skills we are teaching him to use. And in general – we cannot do a true awareness walk in the area that we need it the most: near the gate and inside the ring. So, the coping skills games (patterns, engaged chill, etc) are critical.
>> Maybe my fears are completely unfounded, but I really don’t want him feeling stressed when he comes out of his crate.
Are you seeing stress behaviors?
>> If he comes out of his crate and can’t play the pattern game, do you just put him back in his crate for a few minutes and then try again?>>
No – I will take him out of the environment entirely and play it further away. If he is so uncomfortable outside of the crate that he can’t play the pattern games, then he is going to be uncomfortable inside the crate too especially if it is used as a ‘time out’.
>>, should I teach him to bark on cue
Yes! Totally yes, as an action trick.
>>or play wabbits?
Yes – we are going to address more of that in games Package 3.
>>Riot is far more likely to be overaroused. Is it playing with fire? 🔥 When he offers a bark during agility practice, it is always a sign of a higher volume. But it also tends to accompany engagement.
The crazy thing with arousal is that overaroused can be modulated by getting the dogs ‘higher’ (on the bell curve) and into the optimal state. So trying to stay lower arousal can cause struggles because the dog is not in the optimal state, and more sitmulating activities (like barking :)) can put him in that optimal state. Barking at you cue is different than vocalizing out at the environment and we can turn that all into something great.
Good distractions in the video! Little barking dogs and people are great to have in the environment 🙂
For the pattern game with the bowls – he does well with this game so add in holding the leash rather than letting him drag it, because that is the picture he will see at a trial. 🙂 And bring the pattern games to your shoes and from your hands as well – so you have a pattern game that he likes for scenarios where you will not have bowls available.
When doing the tricks – He has a TON of great tricks, so now when doing them use your cookies like a toy – have him chase your hand to get them by running, spinning, standing up to eat them, rather than feed him in a stationary way. The stationary cookies put him too ‘low’ on the arousal bell curve, and we want to turn the volume dial to the optimal position.
And now for the tricks…no more cookies in your hands 🙂 In these relatively familiar settings, all cookies should be in pockets now, to start the fading process: cue with an empty hand and when he an approximation of the behavior, get excited, whip a cookie out of the pocket, and have him chase your hand for it.
Same with going over the jump and in a sequence – rather than reward with stationary cookies, try run and then deliver the cookie either from a moving hand or a moving lotus ball. Make it all about the action not the stopping – action gets focus and engagement, and stopping tends to make the engagement drop.
You can also use toys more! He likes the toy end of the flirt pole for sure. With the flirt pole – he is a little ‘party-of-one’ with it, will he interact with you more for it? Will he tug on it or chase more as you swing it? Youcan build yourself into the game more: do tricks for chasing the pole as reinforcement, or having a fun furry toy on a line to use as reinforcement for the tricks and in the ring. Bringing that play it into the ring with you in some form will help transfer the exictement and value into the ring more.
And when leaving the flirt pole outside the ring, develop a reward station where it is very clear where the reinforcement is (not just on the ground, randomly – get a little table or chair or something for your ‘stuff’). And separately from agility training – start the beginnings of the remote reinforcement games so we can build that process up. Remote reinforcement is a massive concept for the dogs and takes a long time.
He was very happy to do the foot target on the insant focus prop! So now pick your favorite one, puts lot of value on it… and onwards to Instant Focus Part 2.
Great job! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi!
Have a blast at NAC! Send updates! And yes, you can do lots of T2T stuff there 🙂
On the video – a good session here!!!! That was an accidental tooth hug at the beginning, I think LOL!!
A couple of smaller details to help for the next session:
When cuing the wrap on the start wing with the strike marker for the toy: wait one more moment before you say strike so he has a chance to make more of a decision about wrapping (or not) – just one more step will do it.Speaking of the strike marker… when you say it like a question as you did here, it sounded just like your ‘right’ verbal so that might have been the source of some of his questions. No need to change words, just deliver them differently:
STRIKE! (an excited loud exclamatory)
Riiiight (like you did in the video)Great job with the reset cookies after an error! Threadles are going well, you can start to add more motion too keeping the same mechanics you had here. It will be easier if you start closer to the start wing so you are in the gap more (threadle position) and less in the serp position near the jump.
>>We got trapped in a small vortex towards the end but I switched the sides and got him back.
Changing sides totally helped de-vortex him! Also, after several threadles, you can angle the jump to face him more for the serp so he sees the front and not the back of the jump, which should make it harder to threadle and easier to serp, in the hopes of vortex-prevention 🙂
Great job! Enjoy your trip and send lots of updates!!
Tracy
Hi!
For the teeter, you need some type of something to prop it up. We get creative though – if you don’t have a table or teach it, we use other stuff 🙂
At the beginning stage, you’ll need only enough room to have the teeter with the dog being able to run up it. Towards then end, we need a little more room, like 15 feet before and after the teeter.
Tracy
