Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Good morning!
>>I’m happy to geek out about this as I’ve been working on it for months and it’s not improving. So, I’m doing something wrong. >>
I don’t think you are doing anything wrong – I think you are trying to figure out how to have a happy, conflict-free start line and that is really important!
>>Ideally she would understand sit gets you access to agility.
I play a game called “Demand For Jump” where dogs that love to do the agility, DEMAND it by offering a sit or a control position.
Basically, it is an off-shoot of the tug-sit-tug game we did with them as puppies – tugging (changes arousal state, state dependent memory) then a sit or down is offered, then a quick release to tug again. And we gradually extend the duration of the sit or down (at first it is offered and I don’t care which behavior – then it becomes a cued sit or down eventually).
When that age is strong (I love that game because both the dog and I can be nutty LOL!) then we insert it in front of a jump… it becomes tug-offered behavior – release to jump – tug. So if the dog wants the jump, then they quickly figure out that the offered behavior is the cue for ME to cue the jump.
And yes, eventually it becomes something we build into the remote reinforcement game.
Here is a clip with my dog Matrix, a Border Collie/Staffy mix who would tend towards over-arousal around obstacles. On this clip, I was getting her very aroused, and by leaning over, I was maintaining the arousal with the body tension and excitement from me 🙂 I did not cue the down, she offered it – and I released to let her take the jump. She had a great stay and a happy line up thanks to this game!
You might notice that she had trouble looking at the jump initially and offered a behavior facing away from it! It is a fascinating insight into how she was managing her arousal. She would often line up a bit sideways to the jump at trials and would often stare at something else… but always held her stay, always found the first jump perfectly and ran really well 🙂 Arousal regulation is a crazy thing 🙂
I have more video elsewhere, I will try to find it. But we can play this with Sprite!! Super fun!
>> In yesterdays video she offered that sit and I stupidly asked for the hand touch afterwards as that was the piece I had planned. So, I didn’t actually ask for a line up and sit.>>
She offered a sit! Good girl! And yes – the environment is fluid so you are ore than welcome to abandon the plan in the moment and go with what she offers 🙂
>>In class…she cannot be out of her crate when either Aussie runs. >>
A good training goal is to be able to have her out when one runs, even if it is at your car or super far away, using super motivating food or toys. And definitely use super motivating food/toys to help break through the arousal of dogs moving.
>>So, if she’s glancing around on the volume dial then go back to a pattern game? I can try that tonight in class. >>
Yes, definitely try it. Generally attentional states in trained need to go from divided to selective to sustained in that order – and if she is looking around, it means she is still on the divided end of the spectrum and volume dial is asking for sustained. So working to get her into the selective state with the pattern games might be most helpful.
For other behaviors (natural ones, in my experience), the dogs can go from divided to sustained immediately, such as going from sniffing the ground to chasing a squirrel 🙂
>>I don’t think I can do another dog without a start line. >>
Oh, we will have a start line! It is almost there now we are figuring out how to transfer it more successfully into the ring. I don’t want to abandon it, I just want to fade it in, carefully and happily 🙂 Part of my NFC goals is to do runs specifically for start line training.
>>Sprite is capable of staying in a lead out. She was fabulous when I was using food to get the line up snd sit. >>
Yes, in certain contexts, she has it perfectly! So now we expand the contexts. Part of it is internal state, part of it is external environment. You can play around at home with a bowl of cookies on a countertop and doing line up and sit with empty hands, then reaching over to get a cookie from a bowl. That can be fun and get lots of reps of line ups with empty hands. Then you can move further away, etc.
>>Plus, the sequences were easier back then.>>
If one variable gets harder, others must get easier – so if you are working a start line and it is hard, you need to set up an easy sequence 🙂 Or if you are working an hard sequence, make the start line very easy (Cato board, cookies in your hand, a send around a wing, anything that helps her).
>>having a dog everyone thinks is out of control and untrained.>>
Yeah, that is a bad feeling and people are quick to judge. It sucks! But I bet they also have had issues of their own, yet still judge others. Sigh. Dog sports can be soooo judgey.
On the video –
Good practice coming in on leash! She did well here – she was in a happy stand stay and ran really well! You didn’t ask her to line up in a specific spot (you moved her to a generally good spot and then took the leash off). And you had a pretty causal stay cue (leash off, then moment of standing there looking at her, which is the international sign for ‘offer me something” and she offered a stand). You didn’t take much of a lead out and didn’t ask for much, but notice how she was holding the stay on the 2nd run with a lot of readiness for the release! She was a little wide on some turns but I think that was mainly that you were free-styling the sequence and not really worrying about it, thinking more about the pre-run stuff.
Re-visit this game here and there, to gradually keep building it up. I like how she was able to be happily stationary here in front of the jump (adding a position won’t be too hard when you have the ‘happily stationary’ element :)) And try the demand for jump game, it is fun!
>>Of interest, after the last run on this video she decided to snack on hackberries! >>
Good to note! Remote reinforcement is hard and depleting… and hackberries are delicious from what I am told 🙂 One or two reps of this are all she needs per session, mixed in with other fun easy stuff.
Great job here! Keep me posted!
TracyGood morning and welcome to you and your girls! I can’t believe Saphira is all grown up – I feel like she is still 16 weeks old LOL! Time moves fast 🙂
Finishing the obstacle training and jump height training will be easy for you 🙂 How did she do in her trials with engagement and being happy in the environment?
Good morning!
>> I used Back and Forth to get her thinking again and that seemed to work!
Fantastic! Did you try a pattern game before her turn, as you were moving to the line, then a little more after you take the leash off? Let me know! And if not, definitely try it to see if it helps get the run off to a good start.
>>There are people and dogs sitting around the ring with no barrier, so that’s a huge accomplishment for her. She was *mostly* quiet in her crate when I ran her sister. I did not fix any mistakes, when she ran past something we just continued on. I know it’s my fault anyway for not supporting things as I should.>>
That is a hard environment and it sounds like she did really well! The challenge of people and dogs around the ring with no barrier is probably far more difficult than what she would encounter in a trial!
>>That was another reason I decided not to run Tipsy at the trial this past weekend, I was so anxious over her leaving me to go visit everyone that I knew it would negatively affect both of us.>>
Yes, it is stressful for both ends of the leash!
>> And talked to my classmates last night, I guess there were some murmerings about dogs being reactive at the trial, running amok in the ring, etc. Hopefully this will all blow over by the time we’re ready to trial again, but it’s definitely holding me back.>>
Yeah, that was probably part of the fallout of an ugly, divisive social media fracas that made a LOT of people feel badly and get even MORE nervous about starting their young dogs in the ring. Ignore it! Carry on with your training and have fun with your girls!
Tracy
Hi!
<,We did a grind commute and drove all day Saturday & got to FL Sunday<< Long drive but I bet you were glad to get home!! And let me know when you need the info for NC and SC, happy to help! Really nice session here! I think she got 100% of the reps correct (which means you did too!!) Yay! >> I was really concentrating on looking at her as she came out of the tunnel.
She felt the strong connection and was able to really drive to the jump! Nice!
>> I think I still need to get closer to her to push the line than I did in this session. I was concentrating on the center of the bar so hard that I didn’t really clear the jump laterally as I came behind her on some of them.>>
On those reps, I think you were just running so fast (and so was she LOL) that you ended up a little too far up the line to clear the jump. She still turned the correct direction, but one thing you can do to prevent getting too far ahead is to run in clsoer to the curve of the tunnel, so as she is exiting, you are just barely past the tunnel exit and heading for the center of the bar. That can make for the perfect balance of fast running and not getting stuck behind the jump.
You can definitely add some mission transition to this, so this setup can be go, rear cross, and decelerating into the front cross wrap!
Great job here!
Tracy
Hi! I thought this went really well!!
All of the driving straight to the tunnel looked good – I don’t think you needed to use the outside arm for the tunnel here, because as long as you moved up the line and stayed connected, she zipped right into the tunnel (and you didn’t always use the outside arm for the straight line into the tunnel, and she was still perfect).
For the tunnel threadles – great job with all the verbals! You were pretty correct on most of them! No worries if you mess on one – if you have to stop, reward her so she doesn’t get The Big Mad because she doesn’t understand why you stopped.
When she is on your right side to the tunnel threadle, you are using your outside arm (left arm) and going directly to the tunnel entry you want…. and it looks GREAT! That was consistent across all 3 videos.
When she is on your left side to the tunnel threadle, you were using your dog-side arm and doing the pull- push you mentioned… so she got it but she looked at you more. So try to match that to what you did on the other side: outside arm and going directly towards the tunnel entry you want. You don’t need a huge outside arm cue, but you want to be consistent and use it clearly so it helps her read the line.
>>And when I’m concentrating So hard on correct verbals, which way she’s turning etc, I don’t show a Lot of enthusiasm.>>
You don’t have to be extra enthusiastic, she brings enough for a party of 4 🙂 But you do need to run more on the advanced level – you were walking and decelerating (thinking hard probably) so she was confused about whether to collect or not, which is why she came off some of the lines or looked at you a little more. Keep moving more and she will be fine 🙂
As you add more speed in the advanced level, you can start all the verbals sooner (it is great practice to use all the verbals!) Ideally, you are starting the next verbal as she is exiting the previous obstacle. So if you are doing wing-tunnel-wing-wing-threadle, you would start the tunnel verbal as she is rounding the first wing, Then as she is exiting the tunnel, you would be saying left or right for the next wing. When she is arriving at that wing, you can start saying the wrap for the *next* wing. And then as she is arriving at the next wing? Start you MISS tunnel threadle verbal. SO MANY WORDS lol! But excellent practice for full courses.
One last thought – does she see tunnel bags at her classes? If so, great! If not, be sure to put tunnel bags on the tunnel so she is not surprised when she does see them somewhere.
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyGood morning!
>> I really am loving working with this dog and going through these activities with her. It’s so much fun to see her think and grow.>>
She is really terrific and is so fun watching you two! You are both looking great!
The rear cross videos are looking good! For all of the Go reps and left reps, you can throw the reward sooner (as soon as she looks ahead at the jump).
The timing of the RC is trickier, and on a couple you were a little late (:23 and :41 on the first video, and :55 on the 2nd video). In those reps, she was just about getting ready to take off and then you pushed into her line for the RC so she turned after landing.
Compare to 1:13 on the first video and :20 on the 2nd video, where she saw you moving towards the center of the bar on the RC line after she exited the tunnel, so she turned before takeoff and had gorgeous turns!
One thing that can help you consistently set the RC to the center of the bar is to start moving on that line before she even exits the tunnel, so you are less lateral (being closer to the tunnel will help) and so she can see it really early and adjust before takeoff).
Get out videos – looking really strong and she seems to understand the concepts here!! Yay!
Going straight past the jump looked great in all 3 videos. It was a little harder on video 2 when you moved faster and she had been rewarded for the jump (she looked at it on the first rep) but she was still great about not flicking away to the jump. She was also great when you added go go go on video 3! This will be a useful skill since running through boxes of jumps with off course jumps very close to the line is a common course challenge in ALL venues lately!
She was terrific with the get out cues too – super!!!! To add more distance, make sure you look directly at her so you can stay on your line. When you have permission to really run, add the advanced level where you do a FC or BC as soon as she looks at the jump (that requires quick movement so you might not be allowed to do it yet :))
The only thing she had a question about was wrapping the start wing – she needs one little step to the wing before you rotate your feet away to the next line. If you did not step to the wing, she was not sure if she should take the wing. If you stepped to it, she was perfect each time.
Zig zags – yep, shes looking good here too. Such boring feedback today because everything looks great!
At :46, she held the stay til released then took a different side of the jump than I think you intended, but based on where you had her lined up and how you used your arm on the release (like a threadle), I thought you wanted that side of the jump too. So if something like that happens, don’t mark her as wrong – reward her because chances are, she was right and you will see why on the video 🙂 Then she broke the stay (she was a bit confuse). You moved her further over on the last rep so she got the line you wanted. Yay! So be sure to set her up very clearly on the side of the jump you want. And then as you move along the line, you can handle it more like a serpentine now (feet forward, arm and shoulder open to face the bar) – I don’t think she needs the exaggerated handling anymore and is ready for you to do the serp-style handling.
Mission transition timing is tricky! And she was responding perfectly to all the info, good girlie 🙂
On any of the wide FCs, you were decelerating when she arrived at the 2nd marker you had on the ground – but that is when she was just about taking off, so it was too late for her to respond til after she landed (:02, :28, for example).Ideally the decel would happen as she is arriving at your first marker on the ground – you would decel and move forward. The rotation would come when she arrives at the 2nd marker. You were closer to that timing at 2:52, where the decel happened just after she passed the first marker, and it produced early info and a good collection 🙂
For all of these, try not to say GO (like at 2:34 and 3:10 were you had big go verbals happening) because that should put her into extension and not consider wrapping. And, positionally, you can be on the outer edge of the wrap wing. Don’t go in close to the bar or between the uprights, because that is when things look like a rear cross (like at :48, 1:01, 1:20). On the accidental rear cross reps, you were running towards the bar more, so she read it as rear cross info – then when you decelerated and turned your feet, you accidentally cued the rear cross. Keep rewarding that, because she was correct.
If you find yourself getting rear crosses it could be because:
a) you are running to the center of the bar too much
b) you are decelerating and rotating at the same time, which also looks like a rear cross
c) all of the above LOL!!She had one rep where she did not take the jump as you decelerated (2:52) and that was because you disconnected and looked forward, so she looked up at you to figure it out.
Since visuals work well for explaining this, I grabbed some screenshots for you so you can see what happened:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/16wJa5744LAUOqcIHhH6te8AD6MvCjf4vFoKrgFNXHo0/edit?usp=sharingGreat job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi!
>>. I am assuming that is what you ment by olfaction activity or did you want something more formal>>
yes, a good sniffy walk is perfect for the end of a session or before a break, as part of your physical and mental cool down. The snuffle mat is great to be used during a session so you don’t have to leave the ring or take a longer break – it can help maintain the arousal state so the pups can be more ready for the next rep 🙂
Tracy
Hi!
This went really well! Nice job gradually introducing more and more disconnection. She did really well finding your face. Interestingly, she was doing something we see on course a lot when connection is not strong enough (particularly with Border Collies) – she was going wider and wider from you to try to get a better view of your face to see where the connection was. Good girl! That is why some less experienced dogs run past obstacles when our connection is a little too soft.So the next step for her is to put it into an easy sequence and deliberately disconnect and act lost LOL!! And of course, reward her for finding your face (can be with a toy in sequence work). If you are close to an obstacle and she takes the obstacle – great! It is not required, she gets rewarded anyway, but it sure is a bonus if she stays on the line 🙂
Great job! Let me know how the next step goes!
TracyGood morning!
I love practicing all of the ring entry and leash stuff, before and after the run. It is a critical element of trialing, no different that training weave poles for example – if it is trained and the dog is comfortable and familiar with it, trialing will go MUCH better 🙂
He seemed very happy with it here! On the first run, you delivered a cookie to his mouth when he sat at the start line, which you probably don’t need to do. I mean, he wasn’t sad about it, but it won’t be something he sees in a trial and it might be more of a behavior to do or distraction than a reinforcement or motivator in that moment.
>>. First rep I also had a toy on me (but that makes him want the toy from me and not his leash) reps>>
Yes, it could be confusing being sent to the leash when the toy is on you and possibly the toy is higher value 🙂 He was perfect without the toy. So on sequences when you are not working a specific skill? You can have the leash as the reward. But if you are planning to work or reward specifically in the sequence, the toy will be more effective.
One thing to add when using the leash on the ground at the end:
be sure to continue past the placed leash so he knows to keep going even if he sees it. All the reps here ended with the leash n his line, which can form the habit of visible leash on the line meaning go to it. Yes, you cued it here but dogs are brilliant over-achievers who will anticipate going to it. I have seen people lose national championships because of this anticipation error (totally training error, not the dog’s fault) so I am sure to balance things – sometimes, yes, you are done and go directly to the leash out past the tunnel, And sometimes you can have him exit the tunnel and take a couple more jumps for another loop, then back around to end with the leash. This is a really common course challenge in AKC so we want him to be prepared for it.>>Let me know if you want me to continue showing that before and after part on future sequences or not. I plan to do it for every sequence just so that we get super fluent in those before and after moments so that trials really are just like home.>>
Definitely film it all! If things continue to go smoothly like here, it is up to you if you want to post it or not. But if there is a blooper or behavior shift, the video can be very helpful!!
The sequencing went really well! Yay! There are a couple of spots to tighten up your running line which will tighten up his running line 🙂 The goal for when you are doing crosses ahead of him, is for your to be quite literally running on the most perfect line you want him to take (and keep moving so you are not in his way when he needs the line :))
On sequence 1:
I think ultimately a BC will be more effective 3-4 than the FC because you can set the line better and then you have time to give him a little turn cue when he lands rom 3 to adjust the line 4-5.With the FCs for 3-4, your timing of starting them were great! The rotation of the FC can delay the finish of the FC, which ultimately makes them late – finishing a BC is much quicker. Also, with the FC or BC – you were going straight past 3 so even with the timely rotation, he was still (correctly) jumping long to your position relative to 3, which made it harder to show 4-5. That is why he ticked 5 or dropped 3 or landed long then turned on landing. So the ideal perfect line would be just past the wing of 3 and heading to 4, not really getting between the uprights of 3. It can be done with a FC, but it is really hard to finish the rotation without backing up (which presents as forward motion) and get out from behind the wing of 4 🙂 With a BC, it is easy to get on that great line and then move forward sooner so you are not stuck behind the wing of 4.
Everything else looked great so I think trying it as a blind on the perfect line would smooth out the 3-4-5 line!
Seq 2 also went really well! As with the ideal line on sequence 1, you can work the ideal line 2-3 here. That ideal line is very close to jump 2, and at the center of the bar. So that is the ideal lead out position and then as he takes off for 1, you start to move to 3. You were on the center of the bar but well past 2, which was causing extension jumping on 2 at 3:57 and 5:28. He was taking off earlier and not really turning until he was over the bar or landing. You can freeze the video as he was taking off at 5:27 and your position was well past 2 and probably 6 or 8 feet from 3. Being right on his line with tighten that line for him and still keep you well ahead beause he will find 3 without you needing to do much at all – you would be able to turn and leave as soon as he looks at 3.
Note the difference between where he was on the bar over 2 on those 2 reps versus the BC rep where he turns before takeoff at 7:00 and 7:28, because your line is closer to what his line should be. I think on the BCs you can be moving towards 3 even more and less past 2 (the timing was great!) Anything forward past 2 will read as extension, which is why he did tick 2 at 7:01. If you freeze the video as he is lifting off at 7:00, you can see your line is closer to his line but still not quite moving to 3.
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracyHi!
The volume dial-decompression game is looking really good! Practice makes pathways!! The food finding in the upside down cato plank was clever LOL!!!!!! You might want to get some type of snuffle mat, where the food is not visible – visible food can be a visual thing for the dogs (especially for the sight houndy types), and the food not being visible can bring more of the olfaction into it. And getting the olfaction involved is really great for decompression!
>>Our current issue is that she doesn’t come down enough to rest. She can self-regulate to think and do things, no problem, but she really struggles to relax. >>
This is not terribly unusual for the smaller sport mixes who are really not selectively bred for their ability to chill out LOL!! We can help her, of course, and maturity will help her as well.
>>It’s gotten tons better over the past year: we’ve gone from car sick and stressed, to whining if the trip is too long, to parking on site and screaming in the car crate no matter what, to settling outside in a crate if I am not in sight, to settling in the car if the car doors are closed. She is fine on leash or tied, but the crate is tough at a venue.>>
Those are definitely big improvements! If memory serves, some of the car anxiety is genetic so it is good you were able to work through that! For settling in the crate – if the way to get her settled in the crate is in the car with the door closed (and maybe some music on) then that is going to be go-to for a while! You can also try other locations in a facility, but I would recommend the crate covered and visuals blocked, and maybe some music on there too so she doesn’t hear everyone else yelling TUNNEL TUNNEL TUNNEL and the sound of thundering paws through the tunnel – it is too hard! Blankets, blockers, and music can help dampen that, plus crating as far away as possible. On leash or tied up might be less arousing than being worried in a crate, but they aren’t restful either. And to help her out – if there is a venue where you cannot crate in the car and you cannot find her a quiet spot to settle? Then skip that venue for now because it doesn’t do anything to help her in the agility environment to be steeped in the stress hormones of being crated in a challenging environment.
>She also doesn’t settle easily at night. She is trained/exercised, does a food scatter in the lawn, then bows for stretching, then a chewie, and sometimes a food puzzle, but she won’t stay focused on the chewie and brings us toys and balls non-stop for 2-3 hours (we don’t usually touch them) before she finally gives up and settles down for the night. She can focus on puzzles and kongs, but won’t necessarily settle afterwards. Thoughts?>>
That is an active evening agenda LOL! Might be too active, even the puzzles and kongs. Those things might ideally try to tire her out, but it is possible that they are stimulating her then she is seeking an outlet for that stimulation with movement and bringing toys to you. You can do any training as early as possible in the day/evening so there is more time to wind down. And then after training? No more stimulation so her body can wind down for the night too. Sometimes I am tempted to train something at 9pm, but it is always a bad idea because it gets everyone too active LOL!
So you can get her to match your energy a couple of different ways. For example, if I am settling down for the night or sitting on the couch to watch TV, I will turn down the lights a bit and the puppies are either in an xpen or crate nearby with a great bed and maybe a chewie or kong. Or they are tethered to me (with a bed right there too). And we all chill (including the adult dogs who are happy to be chill and not have a puppy on their heads, which also leads to nice social learning). No access to balls or tug toys or anything they can throw at me, because that is very active for the pup and also very annoyong for everyone else, which could create a variable schedule of reinforcement when one of us touches it or moves it or throws it.
You can try to toss treats onto the mat or bed, intermittently, as she is standing or sitting or laying on/near it in the crate/pen/tether, but if that activates her and she starts offering behaviors, then I would not do it 🙂
And part of it is just surviving adolescence, because we do see adolescent dogs moving more and being able to settle less. This is normal so while yes, we do want to set up a home ritual of chilling out (xpens or big crates are great for this), sometimes it is just a waiting game for them to grow up a bit more.
>>She’s 20 months and has started getting possessive of chewies in the last few weeks. She’ll leave it and walk away, but no one else can go near it, or sometimes she’ll see it on a shelf from across the room and start growling at the other dogs who aren’t even moving or near it. She may be going into heat soon, so I hope it’s just that…>>
Might be a hormonal thing, or it might be an adult behavior. Either way – set some rules on it 🙂 If she is chewing and one of the other dogs sticks their face into her face, with the bone in her mouth, and she grumbles? OK fine, I would ask the other dog to move away. But if she is guarding it after walking away from it, or if it is on a shelf? That is not a desirable behavior so you can remove the bone from that situation – if she walks away from it, you can pick it up and put it away, out of sight. If she continues to guard it when it is out of sight or when other dogs are in the room, you can start a resource guarding protocol for her to make sure it doesn’t blossom into full on guarding. I can find you some good resources for that!
Let me know what you think!
TracyGood morning!
>>Frantic is an excellent, accurate description.
I can relate! It is hard running young dogs when you don’t know what they will do!!
>>I can’t avoid thinking that she is going to leave me and go hunting …lizards under tunnel bags, behind the white barrier to the side of the A-frame and on the back wall. >>
And she might! Because lizards are awesome and agility is HARD. But since you might be thinking about it (which is normal!) you can add a plan to your thoughts: if she has a lizard moment, you can keep moving and running and calling her, so she can come back fast (sorry/not sorry, lizards LOL!) Having a plan definitely will reduce your anxiety over if she takes off for lizard hunting.
>>Funny thing about the table… according to Dr. Brainiac, patterns create neuro pathways…or something like that. We have played lots of tugging and food games on the table since she was a baby. Who would have guessed she’d drive to it on a course. ..
Ha! Practice makes pathways!! So since she loves the table so much 🙂 have you ever done stays on a Cato board? You can use a Cato board or low table to help her at the start line 0 quick hop on, then release to go go go can be super fun for her, with treats as rewards! The table in the class video was close to the people and distractions and she did great!

>>I was ALMOST using food as a lure? Oh, I assure you, I WAS using food as a lure. >>LOL! Totally relate. I started agility with Dalmatians and I had ZERO knowledge on how to keep them with me and prevent running off, so holding onto them and using food on their noses and hoping for the best was my training plan LOL!!

Keep me posted!Tracy
Hi!
>>I want to make sure I understand your comment about the pinwheel. 🙂 So it’s like a send to the middle jump of the pinwheel? i.e I show the line out to the pinwheel, send to the middle jump and then show the line back to jump 5 and the tunnel? So he knows the line back to the tunnel before he takes the middle pinwheel jump? Is that right?>>
Yes, a total send and go there too, rather than a speed circle. So as he is in the air for the 3 jump (jump after the tunnel) you are decelerating, adding more connection so as he is landing, you are doing a big one step send. When he looks at 4, you stay connected but are moving away to 5 and 6. It might take a bit of experimenting to get commitment to 4 but that should also cue the line nice and early, so he can set up his turns.
Tracy
