Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Good morning! These are going well with Maisy! And I am glad that Sassy had no problem đ
>#1 proved harder than I thought because I was trying to do my FX rotation early. Too early is evidently a thing as is too late.>>
Yes, too early is a thing sometimes , especially coming out of a tunnel. We have to let them exit, let the see the jump, and then rotate. It is just one stride later than what you did when she came off the jump, and the same timing as the other reps.
Two other details on this sequence opening:
We want to cue her as far in advance about the turn to 4, and that includes your path of motion. You were moving to between the uprights/center of the bar of 3, which presents a straight line over 3. That is why she was going wide on 3, and then not turning til after landing. Ideally, you would be moving up the line towards 4 so she takes 3 laterally and sees you near 4 and starts turning that way.
The rest of the lines looked really good!
Also, try to do this with more running đ I realize that the space is small, but you can lead out less or run closer to the lines on the simpler parts, so it is more like what you would do at trials. If she sees you walking in practice but running in trials, the timing will change as will her jumping.
â¨>>#2 â she kept taking the less obvious wing at no.3. Why?>That was interesting! I think it was because the handling cue looked like a threadle wrap/rear cross cue. It was very subtle! Your lead out position was good but then you didnât move forward to 3 – you cued the jump with your left hand kind of like cuing a threadle wrap, and your position (still nearer to 2) was on the RC line. SoâŚ. She did the rear cross.
So as she is approaching 2, you should be connected with your arm back like you were here, and also moving to jump 3 on the right turn wing, cuing the right turn wrap. You can then send and leave for the next line, or do a spin.
The rest looked good! Yay!
â¨>>#3 â we love rears. Nothing gets between her and a tunnel on her line.>>
The rear cross looked great!! Yay! Her only question on this one was the fist jump – that slice was hard for her! You can try setting her up one more full stride further from the jump, so she has time to organize her takeoff better. You can also re-visit the zigzag grids (I believe she did them?) to help remind her of that hard jumping skill.
>>Would you indulge me and look at a trial video with one of those lead out pivot type openings and tell me what I did wrong?
Absolutely! I would love to look at it!
>>As an aside, I get quite scared when judges put maximum distance between jumps and then a tight turn. Iâm always afraid she will jump long and take me out.>>
Most turns, you should not be in between the uprights so you should be safe :)) Like on sequence 1, always be heading towards the next jump and not between the uprights of the turn jump. And on the lead out push where you *do* have to be between the uprights, you will start moving away no later than landing of the previous jump (so she wonât run into you :))
Great job here!
TracyHi!
>>I always try and keep sessions short with her as I feel that when she starts to get tired the bars start to come down>>
I agree! There is no need to fatigue the dog or create questions by doing sessions that are too long.
>>These distances are a lot closer than what we usually get at trials- it differs very much from judge to judge but weâre starting to get more European style courses in the state where I live I love these, >>
The Euro courses were HUGE distances for a while but now they are coming back into the 7m range.
>>but thereâs a bit of a teething stage where a lot of novice courses now have 9 and 10 metres in a straight line and a lot of straight tunnels which require tight turns after. >>
Yes, we see that happening here too in UKI, so feel free to adjust the distances to show her those 10m lines. They do make things spicy with all that speed!!!
Looking at the videos: she is FUN!!! YAY!!! A couple of suggestions for you:
>>Iâve been working on a look cue at the first jump so that I can lead out laterally and was really happy with how she did this here.>>
She nailed it!!! Yay! Try not to get into a rhythm of the look cue being immediately followed by the release – on the 2nd run, she was starting to move before the release. We donât want to accidentally turn the look cue into the release đ
On both sequences, you have all sorts of great timing and connection! Super!!! My only suggestions are that we can fine tune your position on crosses, and figure out how to get more collection on wraps. Here are specifics:
Seq 1:
Excellent job with your focus forward on the jump, Sonnet!!!!!You might have noticed she went wide on the FC 3-4. You had good timing on the FC at :19 and :48 in terms of getting it finished before she took off for 3, but I think your positional cue of driving forward past 3 was what sent her wide, despite the rotation being well-timed. She was already in the air when she saw you heading to 4, so she adjusted after landing. So keep the same timing, but use more lateral distance so she sees you already near 4 as she exits the tunnel and you are cuing 3. That position on the line and your good timing should get the turn before takeoff.
Does she have a soft turn verbal, like âleftâ, to help for that turn? That can help get the turn a little tighter too! It sounds like you were calling her name, so a soft turn verbal should work nicely there.
For the wraps:
Good timing of starting the decel and easy verbal at :50 for jump 5. Is that her wrap verbal? The brake arm and forward facing cue didnât get quite as much collection as she can do, I bet. So you can either do the cue and leave sooner (when she lands from 4, cue and leave so you are facing 6 before she takes off for 5). Or, add a spin there. I havenât seen her work yet so I am not sure which is better for you both đ
I donât love to do a to of those reverse spins, but this is a good spot for one for 2 reasons:
-It puts you up the next line sooner đ That is a good thing with all of her speed!-And it teaches her to predict that your decel means you are going to turn and run the other way, so she will put in the collection stride to chase you down the next line đ
Sequence 2: This is also a good one for thinking about positioning yourself to get a clearer line on the turns, and therefore better turns.
Lead out push:
She is wide over 2 at 1:20 – partially because your position was off the line 2-3, and partially because you can leave sooner to draw the line to 3.
Positionally, you were far from both the 2 and 3 jumps, so she was jumping straight towards you. You can position yourself closer to jump 2, literally standing right where you would ideally want her to land & turn. That can really draw the line for the turn! And it wonât out you in her way, because as soon as she lands from 1, you can start moving towards 3 while maintaining the great connection and physical cue you had here. That way you will be long gone when she needs the landing spot, and in a good position to cue the tight wrap on 3.
Blind cross: This is a spot where you can basically be running towards 3 the whole time (connected to her and with the same timing you had here or maybe a shade earlier :)) You ran forward past 2, so even with good timing on the BC, the running line presented a straight line so she was surprised and turned after landing of 2 at 1:39.
The wrap at 3 can be tighter without bleeding off her speed –
On the lead out push rep, you had a little too much motion to 3 (sounds like a nice quiet wrap verbal with it there!) so she was wide. You had nice decel into 3 at 1:41 but still wide⌠she is turning after landing. So you can try a spin here too, because like with the previous sequence, it gets you down the next line sooner and also will get her adding a collection before takeoff to chase your line đWe can also do some deceleration games to get her to respond to decel so you donât need to do rotations in spots where a send-and-go is easier.
>>I included a quick video of her startline at the end as I wanted you to see what she does with repositioning her front paws and for your input. Recently Iâve done seminars with a couple of different presenters and one had no problem with it but one did. My general feeling is that Iâm fine with it â if she breaks we go back and reset. I tried to experiment with a down for a bit but found that while she then kept her front feet still, she broke the stay more often. I donât want to be fighting her on the startline over something that doesnât really bother me but if itâs likely to become an issue Iâll see if I can fix it.>>
I agree – no fighting over startles!!And also, it is possible that she doesnât even realize she is moving her front feet so feedback to NOT move her front feet might be confusing and frustrating for her.
Based on the lead out here, I think you are adding too much pressure and tension on the lead out by leading out slooowwwwwlllllly and maintaining massive connection. The longer that goes on, the more she fidgets with her feet and she looks away at one point. It is like leaving a tea kettle on to boil for too long! So something to try is, as soon as she is in her sit, you jog to your lead out position. Get there fast so she doesnât boil over or wonder why you are staring at her LOL!! Yes, be connected, but it can be softer and you can get the game going more quickly. That might get her to keep her feet still! I generally donât mind the little fidget step here and there, but I do think she will appreciate it if you move to position as fast as possible.
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
TracySuper!!! When is her next trial or seminar? It would be fun to bring some of these to that environment and see how she does!!
Tracy
I believe we ran against them (and won, sorry not sorry haha) but I would have to check. I think we also saw a little blue merle pointy dog that is related, and that we were trying to steal LOL!!! SUCH AMAZING DOGS!!!
FANTASTIC job on these! I think you have proven that you CAN run hard and get the handling done really well đ
Video 1: Very nice! You can TOTALLY get where you need to be! And when she is more experienced, the lead out will be even easier. Nice FC timing at :08! The only thing I would add is the connection across your body (showing the toy in the opposite arm, across your belly) instead of trying to connect with the dog-side arm (:09) which created less connection and a wider turn (you can see her adjust after landing). The rest looked fast and connected, and she found a new gear of speed đ
Video 2 – when you decelerated for 3, I thought you were setting up the rear cross but then you did the FC. So if you want to tighten the turnn (which is fine) do the decel as she is over 2 so you can send to 3 when she lands then get outta there to do the cross (I vote for a BC there because it will be sooooo much easier than a FC and get you to the next line sooner. Doing the decel and a post turn after she landed from 2 made it harder (more hustle needed) to get the cross 4-5.
LOVED the decel/small brake arm at 5 at :07!
Seq 2: Nailed it and you even had time to decel into the FC!! On the cross exits, revisit the reward-across-the-body exit line connection and youâll get the most speed AND the tightest turns đ The rest looked great too!
3rd video: I scared my dogs when I yelled RUN! Because you were standing still for too long 1-2 LOL!! As soon as you see her feet up at jump 1, start to move through the serp – stay connected like you did, but giddy up outta there. You stayed there til she had feet up at 2, and I donât think she needs you there as long, provided you give the clear upper body and connection you had here.
Being a little too close to 2 for too long made it harder to get around the jump in the middle (you had to jockey around it). Nice attention to the timing on the FC before the tunnel but it was a little late (right after her head went into the tunnel). Not having to jockey around the jump will give you time to decel there, show the turn before she enters, and then it will be perfect. The rest looked great!
So overall – great job driving hard through these!!!!
Tracy
Hi!
She was a super good girl in the FEO run here! Especially in the icky rain!!One big rule of FEO is⌠donât fix handler errors đ She needed a turn cue at :05, did not get one (because you are human LOL!) so she stayed on her line: GOOD GIRLIE! Just go with it even if you are not sure what happened (the video will reveal all after the run) Stopping her and fixing it indicates error⌠which will send youngsters into over-arousal/frustration which we do not want. She stuck with you here but it is like a bank account – donât overdraw her young dog resilience by stopping and starting a lot, because that is when you will see behavior shift. So if she runs by a jump or goes wide or something? No worries! Carry on and fix it later đ
When is her next FEO opportunity?
T
Hi!
I think the MM helps marginally but I liked your cone-box-cone session a whole lot more!
On this video, he is looking at you a lot as he comes past the apex and through the down ramp, which sometimes causes you to click misses. So he is not really targeting the box – he is shuffling down til he hears a click. So as you work the a-frame, put yourself ahead enough that you can be watching the yellow (donât look at him at all, just stare at the yellow) and only click when you see his feet in the box đ I definitely think this skill needs to spend some time on a lowered frame so you can get the striding and timing. You can also elevate the box a little bit so it is more obvious to him.Tracy
Hi!
The sequence work is going well! His line commitment is really good so I think you need to spread the obstacles out a bit more so you can have more time to start the crosses earlier.At 1:55 for the FC between 4-5, you were finishing it as he was taking off for 4 but you can start it when he takes off for 3 so it is fully finished before he takes off for 4
At 2:34 when you did the FC between 3 and 4, your timing was better and you were just about finished before he took off. NICE!At 1:01 the BC on jump 6 started when he was already over the bar so he didnât see it til after landing – that would ideally start when he has landed from the previous jump, so it would be fully finished before takeoff for 6 and he can set up a line turn there.
And remember if you miscue something like at 2:37⌠just keep running đ Stopping (even if he gets a cookie or toy) can be deflating to him and also make him a bit sticky and not get on the lines as well.
Nice work!
TracyHi! This is going well too! And you can spread this one out too (which will also make it roomy enough to start bringing the jump heights up a bit).
On the opening: You can help less at 2 by staying next to it (:51 and 1:53) because that extra help caused you to be really late for the BC 3-4 (he almost went off course on those reps). So send to 2 and get outta there so when he lands from 2 you are past 3 and doing the BC đ
Good job with the ending line of running hard and staying connected and giving the verbals! NICE!!!
I couldnât see why he didnât take the jump at 1:34, probably lined up a little sideways – so before the release, look at his position and if needed, give an extra step to 1 to super the line if he is a little sideways in the lineup.
Nice work!
Very nice pattern games in the new environment! He was VERY quick to re-engage! SUPER!! He didnât even get distracted when people were applauding a dog in the ring or when a dog walked right by. How did he do overall in the new place? He looks beautifully engage!
The volume dial looked good too! Donât be afraid to tug with him in new places too! It will be very useful for FEO runs and for general arousal regulation.
Great job here!
Hi!
I am liking his work here – it is MUCH more like the striding you will want on the a-frame. Only one suggestion: For the cone -box – cone, rather than throw the reward after the box, have him wrap the next cone then throw the reward. Or, you can use a tug toy from your hand after he wraps the cone – that will also get the behavior going in higher arousal. The goal is to get him to NOT look at you at all which will transfer nicely to the frame.
When he can do cone-box-cone, the next step would be cone-frame w/ box – cone but the a-frame will need to be low with nothing under it to really get what you want đGreat job!
Tracy!Hi! No worries about the all caps! I know you are not yelling LOL!!
>>HEâLL PLAY WITH TOYS OUTSIDE THE RING/BY HER CRATE- NO PROBLEM AT ALL.
Excellent!! So create a bit of a pattern: toy play – food – toy play – food. Letâs pump up the value of the toy play so we can bring it more places đ Try it at home first (easy to do while you are recovering). And then we will get the toy play further and further from the food, with the goal to eventually have great toy play in the ring! When we add the remote reinforcement games next week, remind me that we need to do this with the food & toy pattern with her.
>>TOYS ARE NOT THAT POWERFUL ONCE IN THE RING AND OFF LEASH.>>
Is food still powerful in the ring and off leash? Will she play with toys in the ring and ON leash? Just trying to plan for the subtle details đ
>>I KNOW I CHANGE ONCE WE CROSS THAT THRESHHOLD OF THE GATE AS IM AFRID SHES JUST GOING TO RUN AROUND- SO IM SO NERVOUS! AND SHES A BIT SENSITIVE>>
All totally normal! The obstacles and the âworkâ are incredibly arousing, and as an adolescent, her arousal self-regulation is not fully in place (partially because she is just beginning to learn it, and partially because the part of the brain that controls it is not really developed in adolescent dogs). We have plenty of time until she is back in the ring, nothing to be nervous about đ
>>I DROVE 2 HOURS TO A CLASS WEEKLY JUST TO GET INTO A CLASS ON TURF- BUT INSTRUCTOR TOLD US NOT TO COME DUE TO TAKING LOCAL PRIVATE LESSONS OUTSIDE.>>
Wait what? They told you not to come because you took privates somewhere else? Huh? Maybe I am confused đ Letâs find you a supportive group in your area, because we need to get her into that setting.
>>BEFORE SHE CAME IN SEASON
Was she very hormonal? Girl Bus can be very hormonal for a while after a season.
ďżź
>>WE USED A BOX/MAT LIKE A TARGET FOR HER TO GO TO- AND SHE DID REALLY REALLY WELL.>>Fantastic!! We build on similar concepts here soon.
>>ONLY RAN OFF ONCE WHEN I TRIED TO GET HER TO DO HER WEAVES IN THE RING (SHE CAN WEAVE)-ASSUMING THE ENVIRONMENT WAS TOO HARD FOR THAT.>>
Exactly! The environment was too hard and her brain went into flight mode. Donât ask for weaves in new places yet – but if you are able to train them at home, you can add some arousal and distraction that will help transfer them to new places!
>>SHE WAS âCAUGHTâ THEN BECAUSE I HAD THE MAT THERE WHERE I COULD SEND HER AND SHE WOULD STAY AND I COULD LEASH HER UP.>>
One important thing is to NOT let her associate any one thing in particular with meaning the work/play is finished. So donât make a habit of always getting her on the mat, leashing, exiting. You can make it more of a variable reinforcement schedule, using the work as the reinforcement: for now, about 75% of the time, you will call her to the mat, leash her⌠then take the leash off and go back to do more of the sequence or a few more obstacles. That will keep the mat and leashing up VERY motivating and she wonât avoid it. If leashing up means âyouâre doneâ she will start avoiding the leash and then that association will transfer to the mat, and she will avoid that (eventually we will replace the mat with the leash itself!) And donât put her back in a trial environment until all of that is squarely in place, to only rehearse what you want to rehearse in that environment.
>>THOSE ARE GOING GREAT! ONLY TRIED THEM AT HOME- SO GOTTA GET HER OUTSIDE A BIT THIS WEEK, EVEN IF ITS THE FRONT YARD AS FRONT YARD IS VERY DISTRACTING. IF SHE CANT FOCUS IN THE FRONT YARD- SO WE GO TO LIKE THE FRONT PORCH OR DO I WAIT UTNIL SHES âREADYâ>>
Is she returning her engagement to you really quickly in the house? If so, take it to the front porch first (not the yard yet) and use higher value reinforcement. And if that goes well, do the next session back in the house to keep the game easy and neutral. The following session can be started on the porch and then moved to the yard. If she can’t do it in the yard, go back to the porch or in the house. And keep me posted!
Let me know what you think!
TracyHi! Thanks for your patience! Finals went really well, even with having to run them at 9:40 pm!!
Looking at the pattern games clips –
The first one went really well. He did look at the environment a little but you were patient and he re-engaged quickly. And looking at the environment and processing it is exactly what we want him to do! Looks like the harder direction was towards the other campers.The up and down game was a little easier for him (it works differently on their bodies than the back and forth game) so that is good to know!!
2nd clip – not bad at all, considering the distractions were much harder! The latency was higher (meaning it took him longer to re-engage) but not that much longer. I am sure he could see and hear the other people but did really well!
>they spoke but an elderly couple had come up from behind me and wanted to say hi to my âMalteseâ >
At least they didnât go with something like Cocker Spaniel LOL!!!
In the 3rd video, had they people you were chatting with gone away? The latency was lower here (he was very quick to re-engage) which is great!
He was great with the up and down here too, because there were som very audible distractions! Yay!So what we can see in these videos:
– the back and forth is harder because it asks him to handle environmental distractions, so it takes him a little longer.
– The up and down game appears easier, perhaps because there are fewer distractions we are introducing, less moving back and forth, and the up and down head position sets his internal system jump really well.So these games can keep going on the road: try up and down in harder environments, and back and forth in easier ones, and see how he does! The more you rehearse these, the better he will get at it. And since you were working with distractions here, remember to balance these sessions with sessions with zero distractions (like inside the trailer :)) to keep the games neutralized đ
>>He behaved very well and didnât seem to be disturbed by the noise and the dogs. He was able to lay by my side and be calm. He got measured and didnât have any issues with the judge or the process. However, although I tried the simplest up and down game, he COULD NOT POSSIBLY eat any food in this environment. Also couldnât play with a toy. Thatâs unfortunate >>
Not unfortunate at all! It is fantastic information and feedback from him. He was overaroused, per the science (being unable to eat or play is a sign of overarousal). But no worries, we love the feedback from him and can help!
3 things:
– distance is your friend. So if he canât eat or play, you are too close to the distraction. Move back and away to see if he can eat or play somewhere else. You might be pretty far away!– What type of food were you using? He is not a total foodie, so not wanting to eat is not totally surprising. You might need to go to tiny bits of mind-blowing food, even just for a few seconds (so he doesnât get GI upset).
– you can try moving away from the ring or distractions, and tie a fun toy to a line and have him chase it, like a flirt pole. Fun!
You can also try a buddy system – does he have any dog friends that are super confident and happy near the ring? You can walk them around together. This is social learning and it is pretty powerful! For example, at the flyball nationals, the young dog of a friend was a little freaked out at first. So, we walked her dog and my Ramen together because Ramen would model being super happy about all the things. So, by keeping the other dog moving and seeing a happy dog, he relaxed a whole lot.
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
Tracy
Hi! Thanks for your patience!
I am glad she is more comfy with the leash on and playing the games! This will make it easier to take things on the road đ
On the first video – since you are using food, the cookie delivery needs to be very toy like from the instant she gets the ring đ With toys, we are always moving it away to get the pups to chase it and get excited. Doing the same with the cookies will be very exciting and engaging!
So try it like this:
Trick – then you run 2 or 3 steps away from her, playfully, then let her get the cookie from your hand after she chases you. Or, after you run a couple of steps, you can have her put her front feet up on you like you did at the end of the video and then deliver the treat. Letâs see what she thinks of that!On the 2nd video:
Very nice!A little too much stepping in towards the 2nd jump got the backside, so be sure to just move along the line and let her find it, like a serpentine. The rest looked good and she REALLY liked the go go go followed by the plastic bag toy! It makes me laugh that we can spend zillions of dollars on toys⌠and a plastic deli bag is the winner hahahaha!!
It looked like you were maybe lining up to do it again at the end, but after a terrific run like that you can give her a break and end on a high note đGreat job here!
TracyHi! Thanks for your patience! It was a CRAZY couple of days but coming home with a shiny new national championship makes the the exhaustion worthwhile LOL!!!!
>>She got to practice this with a fellow max pup participant Paula and Pizazz!!! Great mini class environment.>>
That is SO WONDERFUL!! The more you can expose her to those environments with action and rewards and distractions, the better she will be in the trial environment in the long run.
I think of these things as a scale: if the âregularâ environment is a balanced scale, we need to keep it balanced. So when the environment is harder, we need to make the skills easier to keep the success level high. And if the environment is easy, you can make the skills harder. But you donât want to do both (hard environment, hard skills) at this early stage of training.
You can see this in the line up, when she lined up backwards at the start of the video – which was adorable!
>>One issue they are facing is when a mistake is made, it though it is rewarded I think she has some fallback from it.>>
I totally agree and I see what you mean! Dogs (even baby dogs) are brilliant and even when they get a toy or cookie, they know when something has gone right or wrong because we stop or we make weird noises LOL!! They also know that when we do the same thing over and over⌠that something has gone wrong somewhere. So, I like limiting the # of reps to 2 or 3, total, no matter if it ends up right or wrong (as an old person, I am HAPPY to only run something twice hahahahaha)
So when something goes wrong on a sequence, the trick isâŚ. Always act like it was utterly perfect, the best ever, keep running like you nailed it đ It does require some acting skills because we humans always seem to make the oops or ugh or strange noises and stop – I donât think we are even really mad at the dog or trying to tell them they are wrong, but the dogs still read it as âoh no, I was wrong, uh ohâ and they deflate.
So on the first sequence, you had TONS of great speed and connection on the first 2 runs⌠they were not exactly perfect but that is perfectly fine because NO runs are perfect with baby dogs LOL!!! So, if it is âpretty goodâ you can move to the next sequence. No need for do-overs!
And if something goes wrong – just keep running, make up a sequence, finish like it was a big win, then reward⌠and then watch the video to see what happened. That will give you both a moment to get back in sync. And if you saw what happened, you donât have to even repeat that sequence – you can
>> I believe when Annalise was disconnecting on the second jump to get into her position for 3 was a great example. She will still do the sequencing, but starts off slow and disengaged in those instances. >>
Yes – even though Prytania ended up with the toy or cookie, she totally knew the difference between âTHAT WAS AMAZINGâ and âthat was not rightâ. It doesnât matter that it was human error (disconnection), she still felt it and got a little concerned and careful. Some dogs get careful and concerned, like Prytty, some dogs get BIG MAD and barky (Promise, I am looking at you hahahaha)
So, just make it ALL amazing (because it is đ )
And yes, it was a disconnection, no worries – we all disconnect sometimes. So if it happens and she ends up on the wrong side of you or skips a jump, you have full permission to just make something up and run and reward like you won the blue ribbon.
Or on the 2nd turn, when she was not sure about the 1st jump, you can just keep going like she took it and was perfect. No more stopping, even if you give her a cookie or toy. Run run run! Doesnât matter if she takes all the jumps or not, because that is more about what you are showing her (or not :)) Running baby dogs is VERY hard because we have to be pretty perfect!
By the 3rd turn, she was done with that sequence đ but you kept running and it was a thing of beauty! Look how it got her back! I would have ended on that and not tried the 4th turn. You were probably trying to get turn to the tunnel without the extra jump, but no worries about making it perfect – the main goal is fast and fun for both of you đ Accuracy doesnât really matter right now đ
I do have a game coming later in the class that teaches the dogs that disconnection is AWESOME including a demo of me accidentally disconnecting from Contraband in a trial, early in his career (3 times in one run, poor dog hahahaha)
>>It sometimes here, promise ass promise Reese Carries into their next turn. >>
Looks like autocorrect took over here but I think you were saying it carries into the next turn – yes, especially if you start on the same jump or do the same sequence. So keeping it fast and fun and switching sequences a lot will really help that.
>>Day 2 I changed the rules on Annalise based off of yesterday. Only 3 attempts allowed on a turn!! And if you run it clean, big celebration and jackpot!!! I>>
Yes! 3 attempts is plenty and remember, it doesnât need to be perfect đ We are going for Practice and Progress, not Perfection đ
And you can celebrate and jackpot every run because, the pup is responding correctly to all the cues đ
On the 2nd video, the layer is really hard so it was great to just keep going fast and happy! On the 2nd run, donât react to her missing the jump – even though she got the toy, you stopped and made a noise. – you can adjust the handling like you did on the 3rd run.
She got to the correct side of the push at :15 but ended up in the tunnel, so that is a good place for acting: yay! Keep running, find a line (any line LOL!) and reward :). The big praise and reward was great!
The turn from :38 to :55 was great: fast, high energy, and smooth!!!! When you get that⌠donât try again. Both of you were lower energy on the next run, so it went sideways. You can end on a big glorious run even if it was not perfect. You did get her back on the last run, but try to finish even sooner: you get one good fast run with a baby dog, be finished.
Now, to work on handling without the baby dog⌠try the sequence with one of the adult dogs first! Get it smooth and then watch the video⌠then try it with the pup đ I often run sequences with my older dogs first so I can be as clear as possible for the pup đ
Great job here! Let me know what you think!
Tracy
